Nick - they are Hopes, E4 with 8" hayes rotors. (Clydesdale rider)@lobsterCT ... what are those brakes?
Nick - they are Hopes, E4 with 8" hayes rotors. (Clydesdale rider)@lobsterCT ... what are those brakes?
That would make sense. I was riding in a cold night so I didn't have much opportunity nor appetite for figuring out where the noise was coming from, but it only happens on the 42T cog while pedaling hahd.My guess for the noise would be the MRP ring if it's one of their wavy deals. We've seen similar issues with MRP and Praxis rings that use the same offset tooth design. Praxis' response was "Oh, that'll go away once everything finishes breaking in"
Chainline looks fine to me (no chain drop while back pedaling), I have a brand new XD driver on a problem-free Hadley hub so it must be coming from somewhere else.That's kind of weird for a new one. Unless maybe you have a torn up cassette body? Chainline okay?
NICE! Just out of curiosity, why did you replace the 6sixes? Thank you for the tip on the FSA Pig, my CK feels quite flexy and I have an urge to tighten it up every other ride.I replaced 6sixes with saints and Wolf Tooth 30 stainless. Went from clipless to flats.
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Also replaced a worn out chris king headset. The new upper is a cane creek 110 series. The new lower is from a FSA pig DH headset for 1.5". The Pig is the first medium quality, low tech piece of equipment that I have been exited about in years. It is very, very heavy and crudely sealed, but what a huge improvement in front end stiffness! Chris King and Cane Creek made the fork feel like a wet noodle in comparison. The pig comes bone dry, so you have to fill the cage with grease yourself. I like it so much I put the reducer version on my DH bike as well.
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the sixes have about 3 seasons under my heavy weight. I've gotten a lot more aggressive riding in flats instead of clipless and I'm just being cautious replacing them before I really have to. Also, the aluminum lock ring is starting to loosen up before the end of a ride, and I don't like the newer plastic type lock ring. The shimano locking system is dead simple and reliable. If you get sixes, I would steer clear of the race face bottom bracket.NICE! Just out of curiosity, why did you replace the 6sixes? Thank you for the tip on the FSA Pig, my CK feels quite flexy and I have an urge to tighten it up every other ride.
Make sure you've got it clocked correctly. It will go on even if it's not lined up correctly. I did that a few times. Not saying you're as dumb as I am but just make sure the picture of a lock lines up with that lollipop graphic on the other piece.Chainline looks fine to me (no chain drop while back pedaling), I have a brand new XD driver on a problem-free Hadley hub so it must be coming from somewhere else.
Thank you! I've been riding on Cinch Turbine for 2 years, I had to replace the original pinch bolt on the alum lock ring but other than that, no real issues. Now I have the SixC on the Riot and the plastic lock ring actually feels pretty good, I was expecting worse. I have a RWC BB with Enduro bearings that I re-grease every month so it has been holding fine so far.the sixes have about 3 seasons under my heavy weight. I've gotten a lot more aggressive riding in flats instead of clipless and I'm just being cautious replacing them before I really have to. Also, the aluminum lock ring is starting to loosen up before the end of a ride, and I don't like the newer plastic type lock ring. The shimano locking system is dead simple and reliable. If you get sixes, I would steer clear of the race face bottom bracket.
Your riot looks sweet! I would be skeptical of a lot of folks low balling a 29er, but your analytical unit seems to function pretty well
I'll look again, thank you for heads up!Make sure you've got it clocked correctly. It will go on even if it's not lined up correctly. I did that a few times. Not saying you're as dumb as I am but just make sure the picture of a lock lines up with that lollipop graphic on the other piece.
something tells me this involves brazing, leeches, and mercury vapors.My "whip"'s about due to go in for its third annual major maintenance.
Fork and shock seals and maintenance, suspension bearings as required, wheels true and tension, anything else that wants attending to.something tells me this involves brazing, leeches, and mercury vapors.
I love the Pig, the bearings are the size of marbles! Stiff is moar better... and that's what she said too.I replaced 6sixes with saints and Wolf Tooth 30 stainless. Went from clipless to flats.
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Also replaced a worn out chris king headset. The new upper is a cane creek 110 series. The new lower is from a FSA pig DH headset for 1.5". The Pig is the first medium quality, low tech piece of equipment that I have been exited about in years. It is very, very heavy and crudely sealed, but what a huge improvement in front end stiffness! Chris King and Cane Creek made the fork feel like a wet noodle in comparison. The pig comes bone dry, so you have to fill the cage with grease yourself. I like it so much I put the reducer version on my DH bike as well.
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I like the bike too, it is longer than my previous DH bike but still very nimble and fast.I really like it , have 2 rides with it at 150mm , ran it at 130mm for roughly 10 rides . I have a 10mm lower cup from Devinci that slackens the frame 1/2 degree . Unfortunately the steer tube is too short so I didn,t use it . With the low setting on the linkage , and the 150mm setting and a 2.5WT tire up front the HTA is pretty close to 67deg . IMO the 150mm suits the bike more than the 130mm setting , and it helped all around . My last bike was a 26" 170/167 travel and 65deg HTA. This machine is easier to pedal and so far easily handles what ever I throw at it . My 1st ride at 150mm I did a lap that was part of a race I did a couple years back. I rode no where near a race pace and I beat my time by over 90secs .
If you have the option I recommend trying it out . I got the idea from Mathew Slaven , I bumped into him at a shop in 2016 . He reps and rides for Devinci and had both(27.5&29) his Django,s set up with a Fox36 150mm and the 10mm lower cup .
It is like cheap Viagra for your fork!I love the Pig, the bearings are the size of marbles! Stiff is moar better... and that's what she said too.
I like the bike too, it is longer than my previous DH bike but still very nimble and fast.
I saw the article about Matthew's bike. I have to admit that I question his setup: the taller front raises the bb and flacken the seat tube. He apparently compensates for the high bb by running 40% sag which does slacken even more the seat tube... then I don't know where he founds enough progressivity in the linkage to run 40% sag with a coil shock? The frame has around 11% progressivity which is on the low side if aggressive riding is considered. He must be bottoming out quite easily or be running way overdamped...
I think that an angleset is a better option.
I have been studying Oton's bike when I believed it would be possible to extend the rear wheel travel on the Django. I found that he uses a metric shock with a trunnion mount and that his rocker arm looks much beefier than the original. From that it became hard to tell how much rear travel his bike really has... My guess is that Oton's bike is a prototype of a 29er version of the Troy, which could be a damm good bike from my experience with the Troy.Matt also use a 27.5 offset lowers on his 36 as well , Damion Oton has a similar build he used in some races in France . Combo seemed to work for him as he won the event , he used a RS airshock and Pike fork . As for his rear coilover all I know is they custom built it for his combo . I would like to try one , but the piggyback would prevent me from using a bottle in the frame .
For the areas I ride I think this combo is gonna be perfect , I still need some suspension tuning . And am still playing with tire psi and would like to try a different rear tire . My current tire is a Aggressor and I find it too light in the sidewalls as I keep dinging the rear rim .
Y U no do it yourself? You have the skills, you have the time, ...Fork and shock seals and maintenance, suspension bearings as required, wheels true and tension, anything else that wants attending to.
One piece is that I have limited shop space with no heating or cooling.Y U no do it yourself? You have the skills, you have the time, ...
Did you keep your spitty or will the scout replace it? Be interested to hear your thoughts on the scout. I’ve looked at them a bunch but never pulled the trigger.Excuse the potato camera, didn't realize there was crud on the lens. Not going back out in that white crap.
New toys. Rocky Mountain Blizzard 20 and Transition Scout.
Put a new KS Lev on it last night. Still waiting for the Fox 36 to return from Fox. Also have a new air shaft to put in the Pike, to raise it to 150mm, but riding keeps getting in the way of actually doing it.
The Spitty is dead, the frame cracked. The Scout is a totally different bike, it is verrrrry playful and will pop off everything without much effort. I don't have much time on the Scout, on very technical riding, but I think the Spitfire was a bit more capable when things get really rowdy. Though that is kind of to be expected, as the Scout doesn't have as much travel. I would say so far, the Scout is a more fun bike to ride.Did you keep your spitty or will the scout replace it? Be interested to hear your thoughts on the scout. I’ve looked at them a bunch but never pulled the trigger.
The carbon version has carbon chain stays with no funky joints, just sayin'....All the cool kids are doing it! I love my Scout, and am waiting for it to crack. I can't come up with a reason to replace it otherwise. Heading over to Bham and finding a test ride on the new whack geo bikes might be all that is needed...
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It would be pretty baller to have one them plastic Scouts. I couldn't do used plastic though. I'd have to find some NOS, or wait for these funky shred sleds to go plastic. Even then, I'd have to have all the pennies lined up. And that is a stack of them. The only way to rationally pile the pennies is for the current Scout to die or insult me in some relationship ending blow out.The carbon version has carbon chain stays with no funky joints, just sayin'....
What's that? Missed it somehow. Some hot shit everybody must have?Wont have it till March-ish but after a couple months on the evolink 140 I threw down on the pre-order for the Machine.
The new pole, 180/160 29er. It's now their "premium" option. 1kg lighter frameset with moar travel.What's that? Missed it somehow. Some hot shit everybody must have?
What are they charging for that thing? Frame or completes only?The new pole, 180/160 29er. It's now their "premium" option. 1kg lighter frameset with moar travel.
I was really gun shy based on the price but I'm addicted to the new hot shit and I'm not getting any younger so whatev. At least visa loves me.
Approximately, but banks and PayPal usually charge a foreign transaction fee or give a shitty exchange rate.so like 3300 freedom units?
The deal has already been sealed.
Are you sure about the coil part? @andrextr stated it would be too linear for a coil on Vital's post.€3450 is the European price for the frameset. US pricing subtracts the 23 percent VAT. The super deluxe is the standard shock. It just looks funny because it's turned sideways in the renders.
I'll be swapping it out for a coil shortly after I take delivery.