looks like you need a torque wrench for clamping stuff on your carbon bar
New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
When did you order yours, btw? I am closing in on 10 weeks of waiting.
I was told two weeks, after 6 I emailed to ask what was up and told it was shipping that week. In other words they ain't gonna touch your shit until you complain.
Time to start squeaking.
I got a second set from Chain Reaction and mine showed up in a week. I paid for the full blow prepaid customs option.
Wait, CR now sells Avy fork cartridges?
ah, I’ve got fork calliper adapters on the brain.Wait, CR now sells Avy fork cartridges?
#mememe
Yeap already plotting the decal color swapSticker shop gonna be busy.
I seem to recall having to faff with spacers to get my a4s setup properly, but I chalked that up to the fact that they were going on a frame from 2010 and a fork from 2008.
stripping old decals and cleaning the frame prior to installing the new stickers is a GREAT time to ....
check the frame from moar cracks!
Nick's Pro Tip of the Day!
Took the collective "you" long enough to comment... I probably do. But given that my clamps would still spin on the bar with very light effort from my dainty hands, I think my bars remain UN-compromised.
Brakes feel good btw... I've got NSB adapters on the way, so I oughtta be able to have a more flushed out opinion to add to the "they're awesome" pile soon.
The only other hiccup I ran into during the install was the bleed port on the front caliper leaked after I'd finished the install. Weird, I guess I need a torque wrench for 2 reasons...Fortunately I noticed when I was trying to assess my pad/rotor overlap with my adapter shenanigans, and the pads didn't get contaminated...
I re-bled the calliper only with the 2-stroke option (fantastic feature) and slapped the caliper back on. Bob became my uncle.
Think I'll treat myself to a nice set of torx to match my Wera Allen heads... For bleed ports, ya know?
Quality decals make cracks go away.stripping old decals and cleaning the frame prior to installing the new stickers is a GREAT time to ....
check the frame from moar cracks!
Good powder coat works best...lol
Frame has 5 rides from a 55 year old guy who is afraid of jumping bikes been sitting....not even a scuff on pedals or cranks no chain slap...it's literally like new...
Lol yeah I went over it and chatted with Tim for over an hour when I bought it...got to know him and his past...good dude not a ripper and afraid of hitting the ground for sure...
I did go over bike with a fine tooth comb and I am more than happy to bring the pain to it ..
And no, his add didn't say wife's bike she decided riding wasn't for her lightly used ...lol...
Sram x01 dh dub crank or sixc cinch crank???
Thoughts on either as far as durability...
Thoughts on either as far as durability...
Well dub requires the stupid dub bearings or regular 30mm and a shim. I don’t trust RF carbon, but happily run their metal cranks. Im on all 30mm cranks except for my 24mm RF on one bike. Whatever i get next will likely be 30mm spindle if i can still find em.
what didn't you like about the ext
Just ordered a Cascade Components DHX2 mullet eyelet to mx my alloy Rocky Altitude. Attempt #3 at mullet bikes, probably the final one if I don't like it.
So, it feels pretty good now that it's v2, light compression tune, and had the bushings burnished. But something about it makes it feel pretty tough to get moving on small bump, even with running low-ish pressures. Also, it's noticeably less stiff fore/aft than the Zeb. I notice that a lot when riding fast over small chatter - can look down and see the fork flexing front/back and I think that's part of the issue with small bump. Running same trails twice at the same pace with the EXT on my Megatrail has my hands more fatigued than running them 6 times on the ebike with a Zeb. Same bars/grips/brakes/head angle/fork travel/remaining fork travel. I'm sure some of that is just that the extra sprung mass on the ebike helps the suspension work better, but I feel like some of it is that the extra stiffness means the impacts are directed into the air spring/damper. I feel like the range on the Charger 3 is a lot more usable too.
Why'd you get the eyelet rather than the Rocky shock mount kit?
Riding my Levo compared to my mullet'd Megatrail, the Levo corners way better. Feels less squared off into corners. I've had some discussions with @HAB and I think mullets need longer chainstays to offset the difference in axle height -> cornering radii of the wheels. Maybe higher BB height too. He had a similar reaction - didn't like the cornering on the new Bronson, but likes the Nomad 6. CS on the Nomad 6 is actually longer than the latest Megatower too. Altitude has pretty long CS though, so you should be ok.
This package from Germany finally arrived. A few more bits for the new frame.
These tires are for local stuff only. We don't have much in the way of sharp blunt rocks.
Just need to cross my fingers and keep my eye out for some double down versions, as blowing $400 on two sets of tires is not ideal.
These tires are for local stuff only. We don't have much in the way of sharp blunt rocks.
Just need to cross my fingers and keep my eye out for some double down versions, as blowing $400 on two sets of tires is not ideal.
makes sense given 36 vs 38mm stanchions.
also, how low of pressures are you running on the ext? it has more or less the same dual air spring as the manitou IRT, and i remember having to dick around with that a while to get it where i wanted it.
have you tried swapping forks between the bikes just to test/compare?
Running the EXT at 56/84 psi for 18% sag. I've fucked around with the dual chamber ratios and find it feels best when running it around their suggested 150% ratio, and dropping the + chamber if I'm not using enough travel. However, if you go by their chart, I'm running + 15 psi lower than what it says for my riding weight. The rebound is a little funky too. LSR feels kinda slow but HSR feels crazy fast. If I bounce on the fork in the driveway, I can get it to use all but like 1" of travel and the shaft speed is pretty quick, but it doesn't feel like that on the trail. The +/++ chamber interaction is pretty weird. The ++ kind of comes into play at around 35% travel, so if you run higher + and lower ++, it feels like shit on small bump because the + governs the first 1/3 of travel. Running higher pressures in general with damping wide open wasn't my thing, the whole system seems to rely on the damper to feel good, but even with the light tune it's got a fair amount of damping and not a huge range, so you've got to really nail the air pressures. It's not a bad fork by any means, I think it just needs to be ridden very aggressively on rockier terrain by probably a heavier rider. I get along well with their shocks though.
I haven't tried just A/B swapping the forks, but for the Zeb, the suggested pressure in the Trailhead app gave me exactly 20% sag, rebound felt good, I opened the HSC 1 click from the middle, and haven't felt inclined to change it beyond that. FWIW, Trailhead tells me to drop pressure 10 psi for same travel/weight if I'm not running it on an ebike.
yea, i found with my IRT i'm lower than the recommended pressures, but i'm still at about the same pressure differential between the two chambers. i wanna say its about 40psi across the board regardless of rider weight or travel setting.
i think that's enough for today, time to grab a beer.Ummm, progress
also we have almost identical placemats.
I want a fractal-based disc wheel for the Abbie Hoffman bike day.
Yeah, longer chainstays to offset the difference in axle heights was my hypothesis after my GG and Bronson mullet experiences as well. I'm going with the eyelet because my Altitude is the alloy version, the Rocky mullet kit only works on the carbon version (carbon version uses a bolt-on shock mount vs welded-on for the alloy version).
There's a certain level of effort involved in threading a 2.5-2.6mm wide bladed Ti spoke through a 2.35mm hole in the hub, trying to prevent the inevitable galvanic corrosion at the same time.
I prefer the 4 bolt version over the 2 long bolt version on either end of the bike because I can get my brakes to not rub easier.