Hope calipers are deep and require Hope adapters.
New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
i use shimano…
Hmmmmmmmm! Kramer huh!!!
My E4's are on Shimano adapters.
Longstrokedatrearshockyo
it's already 180...whatchew want me to do? it eats up dh at snowshoe, etc....only limitation is the pilot.
I wasn’t serious, just planting the seed to replace your perfectly good, $1200 PUSH, because the Lizards have infected my cranium.
(just paid for the eeWings, Oval Chainring, DD Dissector, XTR pedals, Galfer 2.3 mm 223 rotor, and a jug of Stan’s…oof)
(just paid for the eeWings, Oval Chainring, DD Dissector, XTR pedals, Galfer 2.3 mm 223 rotor, and a jug of Stan’s…oof)
i'm thrifty, yo. that push was less than any other brand when jenson was blowing out nomad-specific ones for like $500 back in 2019...
I remember that...
The wife and I watch Tucker. Small world. He interviewed my kid's school principle/superintendent several months ago. I forget the reason.Devil's advocate, if the hub shell, lowers, and interface are stiff as fuck, does the diameter of the axle really matter that much?
(I don't know, 'just asking questions', like Tucker Carlson)
Now if we could just get him to get more downhill directional trails! C'mon Tucker!
Curious. Do you run a chain guide too? Like a simple little guy from MrP?New jewellery for riding in NE snot.
Reason I ask is back in the day I'd put one of these on and then they'd wear out. Then no "drop stop" was happening. So I still needed a chain guide. So why buy a special chain ring?
I am not sure I understand your question well. I don't run a chain guide, for me N/W chainrings and a good RD are good enough. When a N/W chainring wears out, it starts dropping chain and it is time for replacement. The steel one above should delay that moment significantly compared to alloy ones, we'll see.
I don't have that fancy steel ring, just the bog standard Race Face one, but it's been good so far. Other than the black coating wearing off the wide teeth, the profile of it all still looks new after a season of riding.
My previous aluminum rings would start dropping chains after a season and require a top guide at minimum to stay on in any chunk. I used to catch the chain trying to come off the ring in a counterclockwise manner - might have had something to do with the weak Sram eagle clutch though.
Wait…you ADMIT to watching Tucker Carlson?The wife and I watch Tucker. Small world. He interviewed my kid's school principle/superintendent several months ago. I forget the reason.
Now if we could just get him to get more downhill directional trails! C'mon Tucker!
Did the descendent TLD carbon and oval ring on one bike ..
Thought there was going to be an issue with one up alloy pedals but apparently they redid something, 1 small washer and it bottoms out perfect. Trimmed plastic boots and it's solid.
Thought there was going to be an issue with one up alloy pedals but apparently they redid something, 1 small washer and it bottoms out perfect. Trimmed plastic boots and it's solid.
Isn't the issue lack of threads making it into the crankarm? I know OneUp used to have the warning that their pedals shouldn't be used with SRAM carbon cranks.
Do you have an oval ring on a DH bike?
LMAO!
I just wanted to know if you ran a chain guide with the N/W chainring.
It's been a while, and I don't really buy N/W chainrings anymore as I still dropped chains. Usually after a couple months of use. But they DID work. For a bit. Wondering if they've improved any since then. But it's not like a 100gram piece of kit (MRP chain guide) is going to slow me down much. And I do love going fast over rocky terrain. So chain guide it is.
Mmmm. This snow needs to melt. I still haven't even installed my new fancy Ohlins rear shock.
Watching TC has led to acceptance of Russians spilling children’s blood….but we digress.Well I could admit I drink children's blood. So there's worse things....
The problem was the big shoulder for outboard bearing would not let it sit in...I measured threads against crampons , tmac and saints...all identical with exception of wider shoulder....
The stam cranks and one up pedals thread to the back of the threaded insert so there's full depth. 1 washer which I use on all cranks anywase...
If it doesn't work then we will see a follow up post on what have you broken lately and it might be awesome lol.
It's a do it all bike for me....don't mind neighbors fence her vines tore it down and she's not being friendly so I'm going to push it in her yard lol...
dammit man. every time you post that it makes me miss my raw uzzi.
Yeah it's a old fox doss the cable goes up with the post lolm..I use it to lasso road bikers when they get too close to the trail . spectators , spandex wearing atrocities fall into that category as well.Good lord man, that seat post cable
That damn post has NEVER been serviced and it's going on 7+ years old....so I tolerate it for it's reliability and always works.
lots of bikes with sram cranks come with washers ziptied to the cranks by the oem
Should make finding them easier then! Lol
Mine had no washers , I have some floating in boxes, I'd use a washer anywase and it offsets the recess of crank and bulk of the outboard bearing perfect. Alot of what i read was issues between the 2 apparently one up made a change (can't verify haven't checked) so they would work..assuming the threads I read and mine fit makes me believe they made a change.
I bought some Spank pedals last week and they include a set of washers which according to their installation manual should be used with cranks needing them. So my search began, do my XT cranks need them? Most useful information I found was this:
This. I've been using a Wolftooth stainless on one bike, the other bikes have basic SRAM steal cheapies. They all are fantasticly durable and long lasting compared to alloy versions, at the expense of a bit more weight.
Even my house requires a washer. she washes clothes, dishes even makes me sandwiches...like a Swiss army washer.
Way more pros than cons, except 4 days a month I want to just get rid of it...but then I'd starve, be dirty.
Most aluminum cranks used to "require" and come with pedal washers back since at least the 80s, and they'd have a bit of a relief for that washer to sit into. That seems to no longer be true.
I've run modern cranks with and without them and consider them optional personally. I only use Shimano cranks without washers these days, and don't have any issues with overtorquing peds. YMMV if you use lower quality aluminum cheese cranks.
No idea about the carbunz.
I've run modern cranks with and without them and consider them optional personally. I only use Shimano cranks without washers these days, and don't have any issues with overtorquing peds. YMMV if you use lower quality aluminum cheese cranks.
No idea about the carbunz.
Same here. CS-M771, CS-M970 and CS-M8000 all came without them and I have never used some. Was surprised to find them in the Spank box so I started to look for some information.
LMFAO
My pedals came in. Got a smokin deal on le PB. The XTR cranks I picked up when my buddy was closing his LBS. He sold me the arms/spindle with no bits for $140. It took me a while to figure out what was needed for correct installation. Still not sure. I ordered the lock ring/washer and the wave washer. I haven't been able to find a diagram that shows proper installation but everything is tight and spinning free. I've got the wave washer on the drive side.
This is the new and improved tech but Hollowtech II was/is perfectly fine in my book.
This is the new and improved tech but Hollowtech II was/is perfectly fine in my book.
Which exact model is this, 9100, 9120, 9125 or 9130? I think Shimano offers relatively good info on their stuff. Here is the installation manual for said cranks:
si.shimano.com
and here the general overview
si.shimano.com
You should be able to find your answers.
Its the non-boost m9100. Those diagrams are for the m9120.
The closest answers I needed are right here. I'm just glad they allow for the washer to go on either side!