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New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,943
9,623
AK
I finally entered the previous decade with an Eagle derailleur! Still 11spd cassette, shifter and chain. Worked flawless. My old 11spd XO1s work fine with this cassette on other bikes, but something about the Canfield derailleur hanger position, so just getting the additional range of Eagle fixes it and then at some point in the future, I'll bring the rest of it up to 12...maybe.

Chicken Hawk!

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Sandro

Terrified of Cucumbers
Nov 12, 2006
3,224
2,537
The old world
that the nomad? gonna need a report with your thoughts. been pondering that for a while...
Just theory, but I ran some numbers for modifying a large V4 Nomad. Useful little site this: https://www.bike-stats.de/en/geometrie_rechner

1. Switch from 170mm Lyrik to 170mm RXF 38, which is an increase of 21mm in AC length (if you play with the tool, the fork length of 552mm for the stock Nomad appears to be wrong in the database, should be 562mm afaik)
170 38.png


2. 170mm RXF 38 + switch to 29" front
170 38 29.png


3. 180mm RXF 38 + 29" front
180 28 29.png


I don't have any major complaints about the bike's handling think I'm good with the way it is, the changes to the seat angle and my already unridably short reach appear a little much. I wouldn't mind a slacker head angle, but then I'd probably go with an angle set which doesn't mess up the rest of the geometry nearly as much.
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,011
1,704
Northern California
They ride well if the headset cups stay together. Did you get it as a warranty, or how?
I'd be down with an updated HT version.

But for sure ditch that shock and put a coil in there.
Spesh was running a sale on the frames and they match the ones they've been sending out as warranty replacements. Planning on swapping to a coil. Took it up to Ashland last week and it rode fantastic - whips through corners much better than the Altitude which is what I wanted. Geo-wise it feels like a good stable-mate for the Smash, as the rear/front-center balance feels very similar. The rear end is amplifying brake noise though; need to figure that out.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
15,926
13,178
I started with a 1.2 and then returned it for the .8. 1.2 didn't fit in my frame with water bottle and shock taken into account. The small/.8 just fits my wallet, keys, phone (standard size iphone - not a max) and a multi-tool.
I just got the 0.8 and it's a very tight fit for my S20FE phone to fit, but it does! Now I need to find something for the tool/dart/CO2 and car keys to wrap in so they don't destroy one another.
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slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
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Yeah bitches, I'm back on two wheels! Managed to snag a hell of a deal on a barely used Polygon Siskiu T8 with some improvements. It's two full kilos lighter than my previous Orbea Rallón, and all decked with modern standards. I had to give up and jump into the wagon wheel bandwagon, getting 27.5 stuff down here was getting nearly impossible.

I just need a few tokens/spacers for the shock and fork and to shake down the flu I'm currently enduring and I'll be ready to give it a nice inaugural ride.

EDIT: Quick question for the Shimano brake crowd, I haven't used anything Shimano in at least 15 years, is there any way to shorten the dead stroke on these SLX brakes? Pads aren't even half worn out, I have dialed the reach adjust all the way away from the handlebar, but I still feel like it takes for ever for the pads to engage the rotors.
 
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Yeah bitches, I'm back on two wheels! Managed to snag a hell of a deal on a barely used Polygon Siskiu T8 with some improvements. It's two full kilos lighter than my previous Orbea Rallón, and all decked with modern standards. I had to give up and jump into the wagon wheel bandwagon, getting 27.5 stuff down here was getting nearly impossible.

I just need a few tokens/spacers for the shock and fork and to shake down the flu I'm currently enduring and I'll be ready to give it a nice inaugural ride.

EDIT: Quick question for the Shimano brake crowd, I haven't used anything Shimano in at least 15 years, is there any way to shorten the dead stroke on these SLX brakes? Pads aren't even half worn out, I have dialed the reach adjust all the way away from the handlebar, but I still feel like it takes for ever for the pads to engage the rotors.
Bleed 'em.
 

schwaaa31

Turbo Monkey
Jul 30, 2002
1,432
1,020
Clinton Massachusetts
To be honest, I don't know. It almost feels like the brakes were bled with the wrong bleed block, since as much as I can tell the pads were almost new, but the lever throw was astronomical until you felt it began to engage the rotor.
My SLX are the same way. I’ve bled them many times and there’s still a ton of stroke before the pads make contact. I saw something on YouTube suggesting what you did. Glad to know it worked. Going to give that a try.
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,495
4,738
Australia
Sometimes the square section O-rings that retract the pistons get a bit dry and sticky and don't let the pistons slip through to auto-compensate and shorten the free throw. Just pumping them out and pushing them back can free them up and shorten the throw, or pump em out, a bit of silicone spray or appropriate lube on the pistons (not the pads unless you like dental bills) and that will get the throw better if that is the cause.
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
My SLX are the same way. I’ve bled them many times and there’s still a ton of stroke before the pads make contact. I saw something on YouTube suggesting what you did. Glad to know it worked. Going to give that a try.
Yeah, the first thing I did after buying the bike was ask my friend who owns a bike shop and is a Shimano diehard what should I do about the excessive lever throw, and he suggested doing what I described. The brakes worked the way I wanted for the rest of the maiden ride, I even had to dial the levers a bit closer to the bar as now they sit tight and have an almost inexistent dead throw.
 
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slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
Sometimes the square section O-rings that retract the pistons get a bit dry and sticky and don't let the pistons slip through to auto-compensate and shorten the free throw. Just pumping them out and pushing them back can free them up and shorten the throw, or pump em out, a bit of silicone spray or appropriate lube on the pistons (not the pads unless you like dental bills) and that will get the throw better if that is the cause.
These brakes are almost new, not a speck of rust or dirt, no oil leaks, seals and pistons are clean AF. I don't think this is a case of dry quad rings. My suspicion goes towards the previous owner liking them that way. I've seen such funny cases before.