Droppers can be a pain in the @$$...reverbs are turds...fox and the proprietary tools of doom..I'm a pretty basic human but I found wheel building to be fairly easy.
Servicing dropper posts however, let's just say I turned a Magura and a Thompson in to expensive hammers, hahaha!
I'm going to have a crack at my Reverb AXS next week.Droppers can be a pain in the @$$...reverbs are turds...fox and the proprietary tools of doom..
I've got all the special tools and info them but more as a courtesy...they aren't a money maker but it helps locals out...
So don't feel bad about that lol ..I turned a reverb into a mess on the hydraulic press the other day..pissed me off so I flattened it completely....as much as press would lol...
That said one up and the replaceable cartridge and low stack height is a great dropper
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Make sure to set IFP to correct depth, be carefull with the internal push rod the end is flimsy at best (internal rod).I'm going to have a crack at my Reverb AXS next week.
It's four years old and the bush is totally flogged so it's time to do a 600hr service.
Nobody likes a trenched out shaft.leaves trenches in shaft.
TBF, when I started building wheels, the rims for MTB were shit until the 231 came along. All of those Arayas, Sunn, Velox, etc…really goddamn hard to make them actually round, laterally true, and tensioned correctly to be strong.I'm a pretty basic human but I found wheel building to be fairly easy.
Cheers dude!Make sure to set IFP to correct depth, be carefull with the internal push rod the end is flimsy at best (internal rod).
Follow directions on it , and it's not bad..make sure the plastic bushings on inner to outer housing shaft and guide pins are set and slik honey in there..use slik honey to hold guide pins in when you assemble it...there's 3 and one only lines up with back groove for post orientation to be right its tell tale..
One note on bushings, make sure they are in place and good (one presses in when you screw cap down on shaft with seal, other sits on end in a groove of inner shaft. ...I have repaired scratches on shaft from them failing and leaning into outer shaft edge..leaves trenches in shaft.
when you say "it", what are you referring to? Sugar? or caffeine? or something else in those energy drinks?GOOD FOR YOU!!!!!
That's awesome man ..yeah it's amazing how it cuts ..it also reduces inflammation in joints...
23lbs is huge for knees, cardio and joints...
Here's a kicker ..even if you burn off calories and sugar ..it still causes issues maybe not fat but inflammation , sugar low, cravings etc...
It causes visceral fat "skinny fat" it's worse than the visible fat as it stores next to organs and blood stream....silent killer. Also increases chances of diabetes.
You feel better, faster, less aches, cool down better, overall more energy when it's out of your system...takes a moment but it's a damn good thing ..
Good for you Gary...
Sugar primarilywhen you say "it", what are you referring to? Sugar? or caffeine? or something else in those energy drinks?
whiskeywhen you say "it", what are you referring to? Sugar? or caffeine? or something else in those energy drinks?
I do, 4 or 5 of em@bullcrew any chance you have a 170 air shaft laying around for an Ohlins RXF36?
Got a vise you can use ..does a pretty damn good job...flattens the problem right out of existence...I'd have a crack at it.... With a sledgehammer.
you need to smoke crack after trying to service itI have an early production first gen Reverb.
Anybody want to have a crack at it?
...and that is why it has been sitting in the parts bin for 5 or 6 years. Looked it up, got scared and ran away. No crack required.you need to smoke crack after trying to service it
they wouldn't be the only company reverting to alloy for the DH bike.... trek comes to mind.I wonder when the real new Summum RR will be released and if it will be aluminium, like the World Cup prototypes, or fancy and well-hated carbon, as we know here.
And norco...they wouldn't be the only company reverting to alloy for the DH bike.... trek comes to mind.
didn't want to jinx it by posting last night... but I finished the set up of my new DD DHR2 last night - first try! It's holding air this morning, so.. success! It went pretty smoothly overall, but to make it easy, it really has to be a 3-part process.so I've come to the conclusion there is no substitute for heavy-duty casing tires. I used double down casings for a few years, and was able to actually wear out tires before killing them. Then inserts came along. I've been using them for a couple of years now, and have managed to kill a few tires in those years by pinching them, pulling knobs off or putting large gashes in them. Usually as a result of trying to air over a rock garden and not quite clearing it... I also discovered the 'run flat' promise isn't quite as I'd thought. With the Tannus, they're too low-profile and you couldn't run them. So you'd have to pull it out and figure out how to bring it home. I killed a tire this weekend (Spesh Butcher Grid Trail) using Rimpact Pro. I was at a trail centre that had a pretty smooth access trail, so was able to ride it out, but it wouldn't work on anything properly rocky.
so I've ordered a DHR2 in DD again. I'll try that without an insert. I'm hoping I don't trade off killing tires for killing off rims. That wouldn't be a good exchange.
fwiw, these Rimpact Pros have been on my bike 2 seasons:
View attachment 219453
this one is cut straight through:
View attachment 219454
I think that's the one that killed my tire....
I'll see how long it takes me to kill my rim, that rim has been on there 3 years, which is a record for me. Could be the rim (Spank Spike 33), could be the build, could be the inserts. We shall see.
didn't want to jinx it by posting last night... but I finished the set up of my new DD DHR2 last night - first try! It's holding air this morning, so.. success! It went pretty smoothly overall, but to make it easy, it really has to be a 3-part process.
1. install tire with an inner tube
2. do a ride with the tube
3. (leave at least 24 hours, but more is better I'd say) set up tubeless.
I re-taped the rim as the tape was getting mangy and nicked a few times from various tire installs. Had Peaty's tape in there (was all I could find at the time in the proper width). replaced with Stans. it's clearly better. Thoroughly cleaned the valve stem of all Stans gunk and used a new core. Let that sit a few days with the tube, and went for an easy ride. Let it sit a few more days. I set it up tubeless last night, including with the old insert. Using a 5 gallon bucket really helps as you can lay it flat and keep it in place with your knees as you work your way around the bead... as does soaking the bead with soapy water.
I think every time I successfully install a DD tire with an insert, I'm amazed when it goes smoothly... but maybe it's not news to anyone else anymore. I just have to remember, and stick, to the process!
I do them on the ground now,..didn't want to jinx it by posting last night... but I finished the set up of my new DD DHR2 last night - first try! It's holding air this morning, so.. success! It went pretty smoothly overall, but to make it easy, it really has to be a 3-part process.
1. install tire with an inner tube
2. do a ride with the tube
3. (leave at least 24 hours, but more is better I'd say) set up tubeless.
I re-taped the rim as the tape was getting mangy and nicked a few times from various tire installs. Had Peaty's tape in there (was all I could find at the time in the proper width). replaced with Stans. it's clearly better. Thoroughly cleaned the valve stem of all Stans gunk and used a new core. Let that sit a few days with the tube, and went for an easy ride. Let it sit a few more days. I set it up tubeless last night, including with the old insert. Using a 5 gallon bucket really helps as you can lay it flat and keep it in place with your knees as you work your way around the bead... as does soaking the bead with soapy water.
I think every time I successfully install a DD tire with an insert, I'm amazed when it goes smoothly... but maybe it's not news to anyone else anymore. I just have to remember, and stick, to the process!
Jesus, how crap is Peaty's tape if Stan's is better?I re-taped the rim as the tape was getting mangy and nicked a few times from various tire installs. Had Peaty's tape in there (was all I could find at the time in the proper width). replaced with Stans. it's clearly better.
i suspect milkit is just labeled oro magic milk. had a bottle of that to try a few years ago and it looked and smelled quit similarEdit- I have been wanting to try that Milkit sealant for a while. I'm still getting through my bottle of Tune sealant, had a look in a tire I installed 8 months ago and the sealant was still liquid.
Stan's no doubt seals better but it dries way too quickly for a lazy person like me.
I'm amazed Stan's seems to be so popular, it's all shit in my opinion.
Definitely a derper post, so much easier getting on/off in the snow notwithstanding the descending benefits.My foot injury is getting better. I just got the confirmation from the orthopedist that the bone is now back in one piece. Still not completely healed, but it should hold if I don't do anything stupid in the next few weeks. I now have ~6 weeks of physio to do and I should be good.
With a thrilling news like that, I couldn't resist and I bought a fat bike (the current deals on the RM Blizzard were too good to pass up). I wanted a C50, but I could not find one in my area, so I pulled the trigger on a C30 instead. The C30 will be great anyway. It just needs a dropper post.
It should be excellent to get back into shape after 4 months of couch-potatoing. The start of the fat bike season will coincide with the moment I will be able to resume doing sporting activities.
I was almost tempted to ditch my RSD for a C50. It was $3k even at Quilicot.My foot injury is getting better. I just got the confirmation from the orthopedist that the bone is now back in one piece. Still not completely healed, but it should hold if I don't do anything stupid in the next few weeks. I now have ~6 weeks of physio to do and I should be good.
With a thrilling news like that, I couldn't resist and I bought a fat bike (the current deals on the RM Blizzard were too good to pass up). I wanted a C50, but I could not find one in my area, so I pulled the trigger on a C30 instead. The C30 will be great anyway. It just needs a dropper post.
It should be excellent to get back into shape after 4 months of couch-potatoing. The start of the fat bike season will coincide with the moment I will be able to resume doing sporting activities.
Nothing will ever beat the Costco Kirkland Red Rockets some of us grabbed last year for $6 somethingI was almost tempted to ditch my RSD for a C50. It was $3k even at Quilicot.