[bullcrew]

Honestly the slide hammer should be long, I have a shorter smaller unit I bought separately at a bearing shop and it's not nearly as useful/able to pull out bearings. For real tight ones, you need that distance IME...also the heavy slide hammer.

IDK if that "T" handle on yours is loose, but on my the "T" parts are, you should weld that T together if yours is not connected.

What I meant is that to pull BB bearings, and a few others, I have to sometimes "compress" the puller to get it to fit in, vs. if I had the perfect size I wouldn't have to and I could easily fit it in, then expand, then pull. So sometimes you have to "make it fit" to get it in there IME.

I have a 16" I use on MX and other stuff there's a fair distance sometimes in bearing to surface and they need a good hit...more than I've ever done on a bike....

That's why I was thinking shorten it, quick hit less throw easier to keep straight...I've used my other which is like this but has pullers as well for main bearings etc ..

This was specifically for bikes, wall mounted and at bench..maybe I'll run it long and keep it there for a bit....yeah was planning on tacking T handle down...I'll never rebox it anywase and God knows id loose it somewhere...loose not fully secured stuff has a tendency to wander off...either kids or Murphy!!! ( 10mm sockets, 13mm sockets, socks lol)

 

[bullcrew]

Also I'm ordering bearing punch tool set, sometimes a swift impact is easier then access for puller..

 

[HardtailHack]

SKF do some blind puller kits but you'd have to be charging a bit to justify the cost.

SKF

www.skf.com

SKF, Kukko and Super Tool were the only ones I could find that didn't seem to be re-badged with a white people tax applied.
But the Super Tool(Japan) ones I got aren't great.

 

[bullcrew]

SKF do some blind puller kits but you'd have to be charging a bit to justify the cost.

SKF

www.skf.com

View attachment 220935

SKF, Kukko and Super Tool were the only ones I could find that didn't seem to be re-badged with a white people tax applied.
But the Super Tool(Japan) ones I got aren't great.

What about ne, I want a "not quite cracker" tax...lol
Just giving you shit I talk shit to everyone and anyone...I'm equal opportunity on making people cry in a closet...

Yeah looked at the skf pricey (I like them alot) and I'd have to do way more extractions than I do...abbey had some short head version as well with a hex on back side as another company I found.

I know enduro is stand alone , this kit is identical damn near to them...I did notice threads are sharp and need wear to be smooth . So I'll grease them put them in vise hit em with drill back and forth several times .. definitely new thread cut friction .

@Jm_ the (your are right) 14" isn't as long as I thought it's actually overall shorter than my 16..mine is 16" shaft before handle so pushing 20"...so this is way more stable than I was anticipating...just came in 10 min ago.

 

[bullcrew]

Park tools even at cost is pricey let alone retail..came close to this has a 6" and 12" for shaft attachment.

Or we get blingy, now if divorce wasn't a option I know which one id have lol

 

[HardtailHack]

What about ne, I want a "not quite cracker" tax...lol
Just giving you shit I talk shit to everyone and anyone...I'm equal opportunity on making people cry in a closet...

Yeah looked at the skf pricey (I like them alot) and I'd have to do way more extractions than I do...abbey had some short head version as well with a hex on back side as another company I found.

I know enduro is stand alone , this kit is identical damn near to them...I did notice threads are sharp and need wear to be smooth . So I'll grease them put them in vise hit em with drill back and forth several times .. definitely new thread cut friction .

@Jm_ the (your are right) 14" isn't as long as I thought it's actually overall shorter than my 16..mine is 16" shaft before handle so pushing 20"...so this is way more stable than I was anticipating...just came in 10 min ago.

There's a lot of gold in there for the "No Context" thread.

With that SKF TMMD100 you are betting on the bearings not being full compliment.
I have used a cheap one like that and ended up munting every attachment that fit.
Turned out the oxy torch was the correct tool for the job.
Edit, pic-

I think I gouged a little bit out to get the puller in there, then that failed so it got chopped.
Was probably a 60yo tractor and I'm shit with an oxy so I was happy to not damage something unintentionally.

 

[bullcrew]

There's a lot of gold in there for the "No Context" thread.

With that SKF TMMD100 you are betting on the bearings not being full compliment.
I have used a cheap one like that and ended up munting every attachment that fit.
Turned out the oxy torch was the correct tool for the job.
Edit, pic-
View attachment 220962
I think I gouged a little bit out to get the puller in there, then that failed so it got chopped.
Was probably a 60yo tractor and I'm shit with an oxy so I was happy to not damage something unintentionally.

Output shafts especially on older stuff is bomb proof .I had a 63 scout that I actually snapped a tcase output shaft...had to be cracked for a million years...only one I've seen..

Thing was basically a tractor...yeah I've chopped races before to get em free, had one on the off road race truck go bad and I ran that poor bastards till it welded itself on shaft . Made it to pits...had a buddies wheel bearing on a grey market bmw323 we built and motor swapped with a newer 5 series.. he lost a wheel bearing at 100 and it welded itself ass on there. Just pulled the whole assembly and replaced it lol. Shit was molten and fused...

My 4x4 road worthy tractor lol...loved that thing . This has some use for getting heavy fisted with when we got it...getting ready to do a LS swap and 1 ton axles linked ..but someone offered me a number that made sense...

 

[HardtailHack]

Output shafts especially on older stuff is bomb proof .I had a 63 scout that I actually snapped a tcase output shaft...had to be cracked for a million years...only one I've seen..

Thing was basically a tractor...yeah I've chopped races before to get em free, had one on the off road race truck go bad and I ran that poor bastards till it welded itself on shaft . Made it to pits...had a buddies wheel bearing on a grey market bmw323 we built and motor swapped with a newer 5 series.. he lost a wheel bearing at 100 and it welded itself ass on there. Just pulled the whole assembly and replaced it lol. Shit was molten and fused...

My 4x4 road worthy tractor lol...loved that thing . This has some use for getting heavy fisted with when we got it...getting ready to do a LS swap and 1 ton axles linked ..but someone offered me a number that made sense...
View attachment 220965

That thing looks rad as hell.

I just use my automotive bushing tool for headsets now, had to weld up some collapsed needle rollers last week because there was nothing to press off.
These are a bit slow to use for a proper bike mech but for the punter like me it's fine, my headsets normally outlast frames.

There are knock offs of this one for SFA online.

 

[bullcrew]

That thing looks rad as hell.

I just use my automotive bushing tool for headsets now, had to weld up some collapsed needle rollers last week because there was nothing to press off.
These are a bit slow to use for a proper bike mech but for the punter like me it's fine, my headsets normally outlast frames.
View attachment 220968
There are knock offs of this one for SFA online.

Lol yeah got to get creative sometimes ...I love welding and fabricating...but like that weld up for bearing ...nothing beats a good fix with a welder for some "never would have thought!" Use...always awesome...
Good use man...
That press looks badass,

 

[scrublover]

Grip Shift (with more! green housing) and squishy grip or the fucked up hand/thumb, new XT pedals, new chain, Koozer-450 hubs for the hardtail.

Unlaced one of the now unused wheelsets (on 170/150 spaced hubs) and reused the spokes and rims with new nipples. Got lucky in that the spokes needed were within 2mm by various calcs. Built up just fine!

Impression after one ride is good on the hubs. Nice rear steel axle setup.

Press on endcap stuff felt tight enough to not worry me, though I dabbed a smidge of spoke prep on the bits to give it a little more ooomph.

But still be easy enough to pull apart when wanted. Buzzy nice engagement but not annoyingly so. Didn't even have to mess with the limit screws on the rear derailleur.

 

[HardtailHack]

Lol yeah got to get creative sometimes ...I love welding and fabricating...but like that weld up for bearing ...nothing beats a good fix with a welder for some "never would have thought!" Use...always awesome...
Good use man...
That press looks badass,

They are handy sets, I bought a German made one second hand but you can get a clone set with a C frame or just a full set with no C frame.
You can get these for under $100, there should be copies of the smaller Mueller Kueps sets which would probably be handier on bikes.

I got sent 100 nipples and 18 spokes today, that's very handy. Got some lanolin grease coz I want to try it in a fork just for curiosity's sake.

Edit, can't find a clone set-

 

[toodles]

Got some lanolin grease coz I want to try it in a fork just for curiosity's sake.

Wouldn't lanolin grease be sticky as all hell???

I've mostly seen it used for its anti-corrosion properties.

 

[HardtailHack]

Wouldn't lanolin grease be sticky as all hell???

I've mostly seen it used for its anti-corrosion properties.

Less so than I thought, seems to make a nice slippy thin film, but it tacky compared to Slickoleum.
I'll pop a bit of float fluid in it and see if it ends up anything like Slicko.

It says not for high speed bearings and if you do use it in bearings just to smear it on instead of packing the bearings.

A couple of our old customers were lube makers and would give us samples, I quite liked the lanolin based oils for usual workshop sorta work.