New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
I use old my old cotton clothes. The lint free paper roll I bought a few years ago was so thin that it didn't absorb anything... maybe I am cheap?
Ok so all smartass aside...Walmart and grab a 40 pack microfiber cloths ..I use em a couple times with washing them shit can em and buy another bill pack...
I did the oppsite. I mounted SRAM shifter to Shimano brake lever using the factory adapter nut thingy. It fit well, but could not adjust down enough to not hit the sifter on the master tightened up. I filed the slot bigger in the brake lever and it worked well after.
Obviously none of you were macguyer cool...I just duct tape that shit, to the bars. It goes well with my gum wrapper foil and matchstick headlight
I Can diffuse bombs, hardwire a elevator, probably fight off an alien invasion with those 2 items..
I Can diffuse bombs, hardwire a elevator, probably fight off an alien invasion with those 2 items..
I had to jerry-rig an xt or something shifter in Bellingham on vacation when my xt brake pissed the MC and i had some kinda matchmaker on that side, brake was the one with the clamp tho and new brakes were not compatible with old match shit thing. Thats when i said, no more of this shit for me, gimme clamps every time.
Also, the no replacement parts shimano ideology was fun too…having to buy a totally new rear brake on vacation.
Shout out to Fanatik bike shop for getting the bins of bolts, nuts and stuff. Wasn't optimal but I could brake and shift and ride Darrington next.
It's cause his wife vacuumed and cleaned car so no wrappers, no gum and she picked up all the paperclips off the floor...shit was clean...not even a hair tie stirring
..
His face is the look of a husband disgruntled and foiled by his spouse...
Anyone have thoughts ona 2023 canyon sender.
What did you use?
shoved a “disc” of earplug into the pad retainer spring. Burnt a hole through the ear plug material to allow the pad bolt to hold
It in place.
Quiet bike is fast bike once again.
I still have the 27,5" version. Bloody fast, stable and tough.
And it's dead silent. The 29" version should be egually good. If I was in the market for a new DH rig, I would probably go in that direction.
However, the team had to go the high pivot route to keep in touch with the rest of the crop.
Which makes the Specialized/Öhlins rigs even more elusive...
So, knowing that you come from the new Trek Slash, Session and the V10, I'd probably stay in HP/VP department.
Right now with Banshee having that great sale, I've been eyeballing a Legend. That bike has always intrigued me but at that price its hard to say no.
Your brakes are way too clean, thats why they rattle. Get some loam on those bad boys
did you try spreading the pad spring apart first?
Did both add a foam spacer and stretched the spring at the same time. Wasn’t sure if the rattle was x,y or z. Which is z? Yes.
$250 brand new off a guy..had too.m
Vented 3.3 220mm rotors?
Edit: Probably not since it's the E4.
I'm running a 220 2.0 rotor on the front of my E4 bike, 203 out rear. It's pretty good, not quite the level of my V4, but pretty good. It's amazing how much difference the T4 levers make on ALL hope brakes though. It even turns my X2s into great brakes on my hardtail fatbike and I was able to downsize to a 180mm rotor with plenty of power for that kind of riding. Previously on that bike I needed a 203 and basically had to "over-rotor" the T3 levers to get any kind of power.
I highly recommend a 220 front though on the E4, I was running the E4/T4 combo on some 203s last summer and was able to still smoke them on steep DHs when I was using my backup enduro bike (fatbike with summer wheels). I wasn't able to smoke the V4s with the bigger rotors either.
Those rotors would look tits on my bike tho...
I'm running a 220 2.0 rotor on the front of my E4 bike, 203 out rear. It's pretty good, not quite the level of my V4, but pretty good. It's amazing how much difference the T4 levers make on ALL hope brakes though. It even turns my X2s into great brakes on my hardtail fatbike and I was able to downsize to a 180mm rotor with plenty of power for that kind of riding. Previously on that bike I needed a 203 and basically had to "over-rotor" the T3 levers to get any kind of power.
I highly recommend a 220 front though on the E4, I was running the E4/T4 combo on some 203s last summer and was able to still smoke them on steep DHs when I was using my backup enduro bike (fatbike with summer wheels). I wasn't able to smoke the V4s with the bigger rotors either.
Those rotors would look tits on my bike tho...
Agreed on all fronts...got e4 on nomad v4 on v10 and this is going on the slash..
All 3 bikes have galfer 2mm 223 front 203 rear...green pads rear purple front.
Yeah the levers are great, easy to 1 finger hook.
Yeah these are tiny rotors... unfortunately, 160mm..lol didn't know they still existed.
All 3 bikes have galfer 2mm 223 front 203 rear...green pads rear purple front.
Yeah the levers are great, easy to 1 finger hook.
Yeah these are tiny rotors... unfortunately, 160mm..lol didn't know they still existed.
Hope lagged quite a bit with the "bigger rotor/moar power" recent movement. I remember when they came out with the V4s and they also came out with that vented rotor for it in 203, but they kind of went "quiet" for a long time, never making a bigger vented or floating rotor for their brakes...it was just odd that Hope didn't react earlier. Only very recently did they make the 3.3 vented rotor available in a modern size, 220. A bit pricey, but I figured what the hell. So far on the crazy steeps, no issues, great fade resistance. I'm curious if the E4s can do 2.3 comfortably. They say they can on the site, but the 2.0 I'm using seems very tight. Either that or maybe they changed up the caliper a bit recently.
Yeah, but they had me laughing out loud going down continuous 50% grade! Because-control. That said, TRP 2.3 is probably fine too.
Ok...now I need to see about getting a set for the DH bike and getting the 3.3 rotors ..bigger hammer mentality...thanks asshole for tempting me to bleed my wallet some more...lol
Thing is I know your right , I know the base behind fade and draw....I just didn't know they offered a 3.3mm rotor...and floating so heat dissipation and centering..
Did you have to use hope adapters to avoid rivet strike on brake adapters ?
Using a Formula adapter that curves around the caliper nicely. Being 220 kind of frees you up for more adapters, since it's just a +20 or +40 depending on your mount. But the wheel is not boost and uses the 5mm spacers on each side, so that may cause the hub flanges to be narrower and avoid that problem. I remember having it a long time ago with something like Hope MonoM4s or something and the Hope floating rotors. I don't really think the floating rotors are necessary, but I definitely want the heat-sink/capacity of more metal on the braking track and whatever else can help with heat capacity and dissipation, so these seem to tick the box. I would still fry the old 203mm icetech rotors on these kind of trails. T4 levers and either 2.3 or 3.3 rotors really seems to have been a home-run. And really, just the T4 lever in the front is what really matters IMO, I left the rears as T3s so they aren't as powerful, but they don't need to be, they just need to dissipate a shitload of heat too (not as much as the front).
Trail in question...and so nice to be able to do it in control, especially knowing other riders are just death-gripping and basically out of control/crashing: https://www.trailforks.com/trails/steeze-grater/
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I got one of those vented Hope rotors hanging on the garage wall. Its crazy heavy. It was thrown in with some second hand T3 V4s I bought but I've never run it. Always wondered if Hopes would feel different given the V4 caliper was designed to take a 3.3mm thick rotor.
I have a vented Hope rotor from 08/09.
I don't see how a thicker rotor should change the feel of a brake, piston roll back will be the same unless you end up with some drag.....?
I guess with a thinner rotor you get more fluid in the caliper and it might expand a touch as it's heated.
I don't see how a thicker rotor should change the feel of a brake, piston roll back will be the same unless you end up with some drag.....?
I guess with a thinner rotor you get more fluid in the caliper and it might expand a touch as it's heated.
Not all pistons "can" reset back as far with a thicker rotor
Hope calipers can. flipside being their penchant for needing a horrendously laborious bleed procedure.
At least they hold a bleed once you get a good one (looking at you, Shimano).
But yeah, they're a pain in the ass to bleed. I'm chasing a little bubble in a T4 V4 right now...
I guess I over filled my brakes because I couldn't get the new pads in. We used a piston lever to push the pistons back and this bunghole on the end of the lever sprayed oil out like a cat marking its territory. The pads went in and everything seems to be working properly. I did not know Shimano levers had a check valve??