I still can't forgive them for making a brake that couldn't be used in the mud, fuck Hope, fuck them to hell.
New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
What brake was that? I ran the old T3 V4s for many years of both DH racing and multi day enduros in horrendous conditions and they never blew me away for power but their consistency on long runs and changing conditions won me over.
I only swapped to the Dominions now for the lighter lever feel and better power.
Is that all?
Tech V2, I'd get grit under the little convex bit the drives the piston and that seemed to side load the piston.
The ano inside the master was worn off on one side of the bores within a year of pretty light use.
The earlier Moto lever was way better than the V2, I still hated both brakes which is why they live in the English parts section the garden.
Attachments
Serious hey. I had the T3 V4. Used them for Trans BC/NZ/Madeira. Rain, snow, mud and 40ºC+ days. Never really changed bite point, always sorta worked the same. Not great power (about the same as Codes), but consistent - which is what I wanted.Wut?
Shitty to bleed though. Fuck taking reservoir caps off. Stupid idea.
Dominions are bloody good though. Moar powa, super light action, a little noisy when hot though.
That's just the stock metal pads. Loads of third party options (Galfer, etc.) that are quieter.
The Galfer ?
The hayes metal pads
OK. Wanted to try different pads cause they do howl sometimes.
Soz @toodles. I posted the "Wut?" same time you posted. It was aimed at HardtailHack saying his HOPEs couldn't handle mud. Now explained.
Worst thing about those old V2 for me was the levers with their tiny reservoir cap torx bolts punters would round causing grief removing em in the workshop. Thier stupid two reservoir cap on each lever design was often their saving grace.
Worst thing about those old V2 for me was the levers with their tiny reservoir cap torx bolts punters would round causing grief removing em in the workshop. Thier stupid two reservoir cap on each lever design was often their saving grace.
1. The lever trick to zip-tie the lever engaged overnight seems to work.
2. If you have the metal cup (highly recommended) you can "lever bleed" them like shimano, to work out bubbles.
May or may not remove a stubborn piston bubble, but yeah, the bleed process is pretty dumb for that. Not nearly as bad as my Maguras, those definitely take the cake. A cake made of poop.
Yeah, it's like after using the T4 you realize they weren't even serious with the T3, like it was some kind of inside joke.
The box of stuff to do is growing, forgot to get spacers for the Mezzer and I need to see if my brake bleed kit has the correct fitting for the damper.
Should have my new hub in a couple of weeks, went with $1 spokes this time because I am all outta faith. I'm even getting some spare pawls sent wit the hub.
@Gary Do you know if an XT 10spd cage will fit on a 10spd Saint mech?
Yeah I know it's a dumb idea, but I am a descendant of convicts, so cut me some slack.
Should have my new hub in a couple of weeks, went with $1 spokes this time because I am all outta faith. I'm even getting some spare pawls sent wit the hub.
@Gary Do you know if an XT 10spd cage will fit on a 10spd Saint mech?
Yeah I know it's a dumb idea, but I am a descendant of convicts, so cut me some slack.
Oh rightio. Yeah Hope made their mistakes with that brake (security bit on the master cylinder retainer can go fuck itself) but mud compatibility wasn't high on my list.
Haven't ever tried. But assuming they're from the same era. There'll be a good chance it might work.
Why tho? If its to use a larger range cassette than 36t. Don't bother. The Saint's parallelogram won't be ideal covering the larger jumps. Even with a longer cage. Just use a modern 12spd XT mech. They come in 45t max and 51t max versions. Or SLX/Deore if you're on a tight budget.
I just ripped it apart, it looks very similar but the holes for the spring are in different spots, may just be because it used a different amount of spring tension.
I have some spare time so I'll have a crack at making a new lower cage, I'll move the upper jockey wheel back maybe 15mm so it swings away from the cassette like a more modern mech.
I have a Deore 12spd but after ~500km the pivots have maybe double the movement of the very well used Saint.
yeah. Zee and Saint both stay play free for ages compared with modern deore. And TBH I never noticed a difference between zee and saint in that regard. I'd guess this is mainly because they both have a short cage and aren't ever trying to shift between large tooth jumps. In much the same way I have a 10yr old short cage 10spd 105 mech on my roadbike completely play/slop free after 10 winters and tens of thousands of miles. (main pivot stripped, cleaned and regreased for the first time earlier this year)
I've found SRAM GX rear mechs generally develop tons more play than shimano (Modern) Deore over a similar use period. But SRAM's mech design means when in use the play is taken up by tension. So they go on shifting fine. Despite having a ridiculous amount of play if you remove the chain and un clamp the cable pinch bolt
Last edited:
New -to-me cosmetic blem Lyrik Ultimate 29 x 160mm. Me likey, particularly for the price. Looked as if it had never even had a wheel mounted/put in a frame. Stantion marks are smooth. I've no worries. A bit much for the Hugene frame, but it's going on something else which has not arrived.
Thanks, it's my first relationship with Ohlins stuff...
Ohhh, you can't use a pipe cutter, bike people will get angry at you citing info they read on a bike forum about how it's bad.
I bought an Irwin one that made spirals patterns on pipes and did no cutting.
I have a rabid Rabbit and a tooth pick... I also appreciate his concern.
As you were.
Syntace are pretty good with their pricing on rebadged stuff, if that's a Rothenberger, 43 Euro is a bunch less than we'd pay here under the original branding.
That looks better than the Ridgid one I have now.
EDIT- But I cut steerers with a hacksaw, coz I really enjoy using hacksaws and files.
Hmmmn…. If JD ever gets his Porsche, can you guys get me one of these, please? I’ve been a good boy.
(honestly, there are so many other tools that I would rather get with $3k than this, but yeah, ‘lottery winner workshop’ territory here)
(honestly, there are so many other tools that I would rather get with $3k than this, but yeah, ‘lottery winner workshop’ territory here)
Last edited:
Redid the shock for the V10, perp head assembly, hyd top out, reshimmed comp and reb, nitride shaft...
Last edited: