New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
Got my new Transition Sentinel with a full metal build kit, bike got a 63,5 degree head angle with the 170mm ZEB Ultimate, Cane Creek eeWings, Thomson Titanium handlebar, Industry Nine Hydra/DT Swiss DH wheelset, Push ElevenSix, SRAM AXS XO drivetrain with Garbaruk microspline 10-52t cassette, Formula Cura 4 with 220/180 Magura MDR-P rotors, Intend Stem/Headset & One Up V2 150mm dropper.
Very nice, that is one hell of a build.Got my new Transition Sentinel with a full metal build kit, bike got a 63,5 degree head angle with the 170mm ZEB Ultimate, Cane Creek eeWings, Thomson Titanium handlebar, Industry Nine Hydra/DT Swiss DH wheelset, Push ElevenSix, SRAM AXS XO drivetrain with Garbaruk microspline 10-52t cassette, Formula Cura 4 with 220/180 Magura MDR-P rotors, Intend Stem/Headset & One Up V2 150mm dropper.
That looks like a great park bike!!
Still need to route the dropper. Internal routing config SUCKS on this thing.
A couple of friends have the Norco Sight alloy frames and their dropper cable routing is horrible. The cable bend at the bottom of the seat tube is so tight the cable pinches. Hopefully the Shore isn't that gnarly. That thing looks sweet
I spent almost an hour trying to get a cable through the BB junction last night. Finally got it through, but then couldn't get it through the head tube port. I broke down and ordered the Park internal routing kit.
"who pays retail"
AXS posts makes this part a breeze. I like them so much just for the installation ease.
That's actually the best justification I've heard for AXS stuff. If it ever makes it to brakes I might be sold. I still refuse to internally route brakes; I use Jagwire stick on c-clips and route externally. Being able to swap brakes between bikes if one goes down or pulling one off to gravity bleed is just too valuable.
Agreed. I think it’s horrible. My downhill bike, a Canyon Sender, has has a bolt on full length down tube protector that the cables run under. Works great.
Weird. I never have issues with internal routing and I like the clean look. Also makes it easier to clean the bike (not that I do that very often).
I do have the advantage of the "tube in tube" routing, so set up is pretty easy, and it's so rare that I need to rob a part that it's really not an issue. I'd probably want to bleed any brake I move from one bike to another anyway.
I do have the advantage of the "tube in tube" routing, so set up is pretty easy, and it's so rare that I need to rob a part that it's really not an issue. I'd probably want to bleed any brake I move from one bike to another anyway.
You talking wireless eddy current braking or e-bike regenerative braking?
Ultra high frequency telepatheneuric braking.
I wish they would just make the rear brake ‘tube in tube’ big enough that you could keep the olive and barb on to replace it or swap it.
My bike does that. It's external on the rear triangle but internal to the downtube. It's easy to route but difficult to keep quiet and you still have to disconnect it. Plus the rear hose needs to be wicked long to reach through the tube. I'd rather just have it outside and ugly.
Fair point but then it would be big enough that it would rattle and move around, among other things. I've definitely left the barb in, rerouted, and reused the olive though.
My old Kona had awesome trapdoor sized access to the internal routing which meant you could pretty much get not just the barb and olive through, but the whole nut thingy and the slide on sleeve some brands use.
SRAM's thread in barbs and olives are actually pretty good for that function as well. Both of my current bikes (transitions) run the brake outside and the dropper and shifter cable internally and that works well. Guerrilla Gravity and Canyon and a few others have the removable covers instead which is bloody awesome.
all this makes my happy my nomad's rear brake is external and the internal derailleur and dropper cables were pretty problem-free to install and rattle-free since.
Picked some spare bits. And something to help with a recalcitrant Dub crank bolt.
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I've used pandemic related shortages as an excuse to stock up on tires, drive train, brake pads, etc. It's pretty impressive how many fairly common things are tough to find.
My spare bin is decently stocked, but for sure needed a few things. Already had a more or less complete build kit, and some spare/older wheels. The three mtbs run the same brake and drivetrain setups, and the same dropper posts, all RS suspension bits. Makes stocking some of the spares less of a headache. Same chain/cassette/pads/chainring/brake bleeding/fork servicing setup. The only oddballs are the wider BB and hubs of the fatbike. And the roadcrossgarvel bike stuff.
Nice to be able steal a brake off one bike for another in a pinch and not have to worry about compatibility.
Haha! I had to buy the same thing for a DUB crank bolt. One foot on the opposite pedal, one foot on the breaker bar while leaning the handlebar against my garage wall. It was like trying to kick start an old CR 500.
They make a steel version of that bolt now: https://cyclingtips.com/2021/02/sram-aluminum-crank-bolts-seize-stuck-fix/
I have had great luck with just smacking the allen wrench with a light soft-blow hammer while supporting the pedal on something like an ammo box. Sometimes impulse is better than torque.
That reminds me how happy I am to be back on Shimano pinch bolt cranks, unrideably heavy as they may be.
Tell us more 'bout those jagwire pads. Are they for Codes? I run through the SRAM metal pads pretty quickly and am curious about an alternative.
I’ve used them in codes on my last DH rig. They’re fine.
I like the EBC HH compounds pads for Codes. Cheap, with free and quick shipping from PerfectBrakes.com, and probably available elsewhere.
I plan to use them on all future brakes, and I've used the Shimano versions with good results. And their Suzuki pads too...
I plan to use them on all future brakes, and I've used the Shimano versions with good results. And their Suzuki pads too...
Guide pads.
They work fine for me, but I'm not big and all my trails are up/down/up/down with not much sustained descending.
Have used them off and on with no issues.
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