Props for PropsThey are the last piece that goes in the bike bucket. Now the Throttle can begin going together...
View attachment 157170
Props for PropsThey are the last piece that goes in the bike bucket. Now the Throttle can begin going together...
View attachment 157170
I'm gonna take a while guess and assume he's not running OE rubber. I've experienced the same thing with Vittoria tires. Same tire, different rubber for OE and aftermarket. BIG difference.I've run Michelin tyres in the past and sold them after a week. These seem destined for the same fate. I have no idea how Hill wins on them, they just don't work for me and I'm scared. Going back to an Assegai or Mary ASAP.
Idk the new michy stuff is pretty good. I have a set of the wild rockr2 on my megatrail, and just picked up a set of dh34 for the bike park, and these came highly recommended.I'm gonna take a while guess and assume he's not running OE rubber. I've experienced the same thing with Vittoria tires. Same tire, different rubber for OE and aftermarket. BIG difference.
I dunno. The first set of Michelins I had were purchased aftermarket so they shouldn't be OE spec. The pair that came on the Mega definitely felt like the rubber was nice and soft as well. To be clear, they're not bad tyres really - the back tyre is really nice (although the casing feels a bit light? Around 100g lighter than a DHR2 DD). I never punctured it, but really only ran them for maybe five or six rides in total.I'm gonna take a while guess and assume he's not running OE rubber. I've experienced the same thing with Vittoria tires. Same tire, different rubber for OE and aftermarket. BIG difference.
Because some uphill trails are steep in Yrup, like really steep and long. And then it's an absolute pain in the back to keep your ass from moving backwards off the saddle all the time. Going uphill for more than 1200 m vertical ascent with an average gradient of 15 % is arduous by itself, no need to make it harder just to follow fashion.DAMMIT @buckoW!!1!!!!111!!1!! i don't. understand. how you ride. with the nose on the saddle. at anything less than parallel. to. the. ground.
Our hills aren't that big - most are just 150 - 500m climbs. But they're steepish. I think once you're doing 15%+ climbs (or whatever 150m vert/1km equals) a dorky steep SA and a downwards tilted saddle are basic needs unless you either don't like your lower back or enjoy numb wedding tackle.Because some uphill trails are steep in Yrup, like really steep and long. And then it's an absolute pain in the back to keep your ass from moving backwards off the saddle all the time. Going uphill for more than 1200 m vertical ascend with an average gradient of 15 % is arduous by itself, no need to make it harder just to follow fashion.
Numb wedding tackle, exactly the words I was looking for.Our hills aren't that big - most are just 150 - 500m climbs. But they're steepish. I think once you're doing 15%+ climbs (or whatever 150m vert/1km equals) a dorky steep SA and a downwards tilted saddle are basic needs unless you either don't like your lower back or enjoy numb wedding tackle.
Can confirm.i'm probably one of the least "fashionable" riders you'll find
I actually kind like the theory of that stupid Wu seatpost that Specialized had. Nose down for the climbs, nose up for shenanigans. But limited drop sucks.My lower back is moldy and it’s steep af right out my back door. My back decides what we do these days. He’s the quiet type but very persuasive. I would like that Anaemoly seat angle thing for the downs though.
Makes sense, I would rock one if there was an axs 175-200mm versionI actually kind like the theory of that stupid Wu seatpost that Specialized had. Nose down for the climbs, nose up for shenanigans. But limited drop sucks.
Agreed! I’ve been patiently waiting for a 170mm to 200mm version since that WU one came out. That Aenomoly will do if it ever comes out.I actually kind like the theory of that stupid Wu seatpost that Specialized had. Nose down for the climbs, nose up for shenanigans. But limited drop sucks.
??I need a 200mm seat post on there. Who makes a inexpensive 200mm one?
This new to me lathe is for making bike parts so that sort of counts.
Try Satori or Brand X... Sub 200 GBP last time I checked.Who makes a inexpensive 200mm one?
Pnw has the Loam and Rainer in 200mm.I need a 200mm seat post on there. Who makes a inexpensive 200mm one?
Oneup makes one in that size also.New E bike is fun af. I need a 200mm seat post on there. Who makes a inexpensive 200mm one?
Mine's only 185mm but that's pretty long for me.Bikeyoke 213mm. Just got one. It's long.
Mine's only 185mm but that's pretty long for me.
I have had the same thoughts, but have never looked into them.reddin' up the DH bike for the season...
...considering a reach adjust headset...
I have had the same thoughts, but have never looked into them.
How much added reach can you realistically get? - and is that at a cost that makes sense?
yea, it wouldn't be a ton, which is why i'm only considering it. fwiw its a straight 1.5 head tube with a 1-1/8 straight steerer so it is the 'optimal" configuration for it. the works version would give me i think 6mmNot a whole lot. About 5–7mm max, depending on headtube and steerer tube configuration.
Works Components makes pretty decent ones at a fairly reasonable price.
this is on a DH bike with the above configuration. its a ZS headset, my current headset is 7mm stack height, the works version for my setup has a 9mm stack height, so only 2mm net increase.This was discussed not to long ago, what you get in reach you lose again due to the stack increase, so net zero actual change in reach. It does put your steerer and front axle 5mm farther out though.
On DH bikes with straight 1.5" head tubes and 1 1/8th straight steerers reach adjust can add quite a bit of length and doesn't affect stack. It's less viable on tapered head tubes though.This was discussed not to long ago, what you get in reach you lose again due to the stack increase, so net zero actual change in reach. It does put your steerer and front axle 5mm farther out though.
it also assumes the stem is slammed in the first place.On DH bikes with straight 1.5" head tubes and 1 1/8th straight steerers reach adjust can add quite a bit of length and doesn't affect stack. It's less viable on tapered head tubes though.
Unfortunately all of my DH bikes have either been 1 1/8th or tapered head tubes. I wish the 1.5 standard had caught on more.On DH bikes with straight 1.5" head tubes and 1 1/8th straight steerers reach adjust can add quite a bit of length and doesn't affect stack. It's less viable on tapered head tubes though.
when was the last time you bought a DH bike? mine is 2010 and is 1.5 headtube. DH is about the only place 1.5 straight head tubes still exist, despite i think only manitou ever making a 1.5 steerer. i mean, even specialized still uses a 1.5 straight headtube on the demo.Unfortunately all of my DH bikes have either been 1 1/8th or tapered head tubes. I wish the 1.5 standard had caught on more.
2018 Giant Glorywhen was the last time you bought a DH bike? mine is 2010 and is 1.5 headtube. DH is about the only place 1.5 straight head tubes still exist, despite i think only manitou ever making a 1.5 steerer. i mean, even specialized still uses a 1.5 straight headtube on the demo.
ah. i'd be curious to see what the split is on modern DH bikes between tapered and 1.5 head tubes. 3 of the 4 i just randomly checked are 1.5 (demo, commencal supreme, mondraker).2018 Giant Glory
possibly. i will give the industry lizards credit for settling on tapered steerers. i mean, they got road and mountain to agree on something.didn't the totem come in a 1.5 straight? my uzzi had a 1.5 upper and lower - when i trashed the upper a few years back the hub (bike shop in the heart of pisgah) just laughed and said no way they had a replacement in stock.