[mykel]

I have the ABS, so I didn't think that would mesh well with the Smash, plus I can run the ACS at close to zero pressure. Install was easy.

I was thinking of getting the Secus up until I started watching the install video. First, the complicated air filling, then the install was fairly complicated. Not crazy bad, but then they said don't rest the fork ever again on the bottom of the legs where the Secus protrudes...which is basically how we ship a bike in an Evoc case. So that plus that de-filling/filling operation, that's just way too much for me to worry about. Coilz r better.

When I ordered the Avy damper, I purposely left the ABS off, as I was planning on going Smashpot, just so I would not be in the competing ABS realm. Smashpot adjustability is pretty sweet as well. You can feel the Smashpot in the deeper travel as it has a bit greater travel range where it is active, very controlled feel. The Avy ABS on the DH bike definitely has a different feel. With it, it is only noticeable when you get things really wrong. The fork just won't clank, but there is no real feel to the system as its range of operation is much smaller.

I also have a Mattoc which also has ABS that works quite well.

I am a fan.

I was offered an early Secus when the Smashpot was on backorder last summer. Decided to stick with coil - i jus like em - but the Secus was intriguing. Will be interesting to see what the consensus is after a bit of time. Would be cool if you could back to back identical base forks, on identical bikes - one Secus, and the other Smashpot.

 

[Jm_]

ABS has saved my ass many times. It really helps with the nose-landings where things went terribly wrong.

 

[Jm_]

Just took a little spin on the RFX to make sure it is good for AZ this week. I think the coil is going to be a winner. Does not suck.

 

[djjohnr]

I have the ABS, so I didn't think that would mesh well with the Smash, plus I can run the ACS at close to zero pressure. Install was easy.

I was thinking of getting the Secus up until I started watching the install video. First, the complicated air filling, then the install was fairly complicated. Not crazy bad, but then they said don't rest the fork ever again on the bottom of the legs where the Secus protrudes...which is basically how we ship a bike in an Evoc case. So that plus that de-filling/filling operation, that's just way too much for me to worry about. Coilz r better.

I've owned all three systems (Secus, Smashpot, ACS); the Smashpot was by far the most complicated/time-consuming install. Secus is a pretty easy install, the only time consuming part is heating up the OE footnut enough to get the loctite to let go. ACS3 is the quickest to install, and is lighter than the Smashpot, but you can't change travel without buying additional air bump stops (not cheap), and they don't manage bottom out as well as the Smashpot (not an issue if you have the Avy hydro bottom out already); the lack of a 180mm option is a bummer as well. When filling a fork with the Secus all you need to do is press the button on the unit after you've added air. When depressurizing just hold the button down. I use the EVOC frame/stand thing in my case, but even if I didn't I think if you padded it well it would be fine, although in either case I'd rotate the can to be inside the fork legs.

 

[slyfink]

Installed the 1-finger levers on my MT-5s last night. They seem to be a marked improvement. Looking forward to testing them out.

Unfortunately, I couldn't install the direct-mount brackets I ordered for my M-9000 shifter. I have the "standard" version of the shifter, on which I thought I could unscrew the mounting bracket. Unfortunately, it doesn't work quite like that. Anyone know if there is a way to turn my SL-M9000-R into a SL-M9000-IR?

Also laced a new rim to my hub using same spokes and the "tape together and transfer one spoke over at a time" technique. The rim are true, but it has a pretty significant hop to it. I think I have to de-tension it, and start all over again.

If I'm not mistaken, the steps - in order will be:
1. de-tension so spokes are all loose
2. put enough tension so they are just barely under (even) tension
3. bring to round
4. then bring tension up evenly, going around the wheel one spoke at a time
5. then true.
that sound about right?

 

[Salami]

Unfortunately, I couldn't install the direct-mount brackets I ordered for my M-9000 shifter. I have the "standard" version of the shifter, on which I thought I could unscrew the mounting bracket. Unfortunately, it doesn't work quite like that. Anyone know if there is a way to turn my SL-M9000-R into a SL-M9000-IR?

Is the same shifter clamp you have now?

 

[slyfink]

Is the same shifter clamp you have now?

View attachment 159383

I think so, yes. It's obscured by your brake, but the clamp looks the same. (I've had to run the shifter between the grip and the brake though.)

 

[Salami]

I think so, yes. It's obscured by your brake, but the clamp looks the same. (I've had to run the shifter between the grip and the brake though.)

The picture in my last post was of the 22.2" bar mount clamp which I believe you have. Order this part to convert the shifter to use the Magura direct mount clamp.

Shimano XTR M9000 I-Spec II Adaptor Unit | Jenson USA

www.jensonusa.com

I ordered the Magura clamp for the left side brake lever as I wanted to move the shifter further from the grip. If you have your current shifter between the brake lever and grip you will want the right side Magura clamp.

 

[slyfink]

The picture in my last post was of the 22.2" bar mount clamp which I believe you have. Order this part to convert the shifter to use the Magura direct mount clamp.

Shimano XTR M9000 I-Spec II Adaptor Unit | Jenson USA

www.jensonusa.com

I ordered the Magura clamp for the left side brake lever as I wanted to move the shifter further from the grip. If you have your current shifter between the brake lever and grip you will want the right side Magura clamp. View attachment 159396View attachment 159397

Noice! Thanks

Btw, how much of a hassle is it to replace that cap? I'm kinda paranoid all the internals will pop out like an old watch's gears if I open it.

 

[Salami]

Noice! Thanks

Btw, how much of a hassle is it to replace that cap? I'm kinda paranoid all the internals will pop out like an old watch's gears if I open it.

It took about two hours

 

[Salami]

Just fucking with you. Super easy. Hardest part was finding the correct size Philips screw drivers to not round out the screw heads

 

[Happymtb.fr]

I got a Turner now!

 

[StiHacka]

I got a Turner now!

View attachment 159419

Warranty replacement?

 

[Happymtb.fr]

Warranty replacement?

No, quick and dirty fix to more modern geometry.

 

[dump]

No, quick and dirty fix to more modern geometry.

do report back

 

[Sandwich]

yeah wtf m8

 

[buckoW]

No, quick and dirty fix to more modern geometry.

I like cutting seat tubes too! How’s it working out?

 

[Happymtb.fr]

I like cutting seat tubes too! How’s it working out?

Great! I removed around 10cm (4") of the original 53cm (21").

I started filing down to the welds on the top tube until beer o'clock yesterday.
What frame did you customize?

@Sandwich
I had a little chat with the frame manufacturer before to confirm my assumptions. What a great guy!

 

[scrublover]

No longer languishing away in 10x135 limbo on my commuter bike.

New rim/spokes/nipples inbound. Will be the heavier duty/DH tire shod wheel for lift use.

 

[scrublover]

Pffft. Not so fancy. Way cheaper than buying a new hub!

 

[dump]

Pffft. Not so fancy. Way cheaper than buying a new hub!

that’s not a new hub? Looks good!

 

[scrublover]

that’s not a new hub? Looks good!

5-6 years old. Just new bits to make it fit the newer bikes!

 

[buckoW]

Great! I removed around 10cm (4") of the original 53cm (21").
View attachment 159439
I started filing down to the welds on the top tube until beer o'clock yesterday.
What frame did you customize?

I’ve cut a bunch over the years but my last 2 Ransom frames were the most recent.

 

[Rhubarb]

Whats the plan for the remaining material on the top tube, from the original brace?

 

[Happymtb.fr]

Whats the plan for the remaining material on the top tube, from the original brace?

Leaving some scars, they will make a great conversation starter!

Now I need to find a reamer.

 

[rideit]

You could mock up a ‘power’ button for that hole...

 

[dexter]

You could mock up a ‘power’ button for that hole...

Halfway to an integrated bong, keep going

 

[slyfink]

Installed the 1-finger levers on my MT-5s last night. They seem to be a marked improvement. Looking forward to testing them out.

Unfortunately, I couldn't install the direct-mount brackets I ordered for my M-9000 shifter. I have the "standard" version of the shifter, on which I thought I could unscrew the mounting bracket. Unfortunately, it doesn't work quite like that. Anyone know if there is a way to turn my SL-M9000-R into a SL-M9000-IR?

Also laced a new rim to my hub using same spokes and the "tape together and transfer one spoke over at a time" technique. The rim are true, but it has a pretty significant hop to it. I think I have to de-tension it, and start all over again.

If I'm not mistaken, the steps - in order will be:
1. de-tension so spokes are all loose
2. put enough tension so they are just barely under (even) tension
3. bring to round
4. then bring tension up evenly, going around the wheel one spoke at a time
5. then true.
that sound about right?

The picture in my last post was of the 22.2" bar mount clamp which I believe you have. Order this part to convert the shifter to use the Magura direct mount clamp.

Shimano XTR M9000 I-Spec II Adaptor Unit | Jenson USA

www.jensonusa.com

I ordered the Magura clamp for the left side brake lever as I wanted to move the shifter further from the grip. If you have your current shifter between the brake lever and grip you will want the right side Magura clamp. View attachment 159396View attachment 159397

goddamit. I finally got all the parts to direct mount my shifter, only to find out it doesn't work. the "trigger" lever of the shifter interferes with the 1-finger brake lever. While not 100% perfect, I could get it much closer to ideal with the standard clamp. Luckily, I was able to buy a used direct-mount adapter for the shifter from one of the guys that works at my LBS, so it wasn't too expensive of a mistake.

now I need to track down the creak coming from my front end. for sure my CSU is creaking, but I think my headset is too. maybe a little grease will help. and if not a new headset will be in order.

anyone have any thoughts on whether a Wolftooth headset would be worth 60% more than a Cane Creek 40 headset?

 

[6thElement]

Great! I removed around 10cm (4") of the original 53cm (21").
View attachment 159439
I started filing down to the welds on the top tube until beer o'clock yesterday.
What frame did you customize?

@Sandwich
I had a little chat with the frame manufacturer before to confirm my assumptions. What a great guy!

What's the desire, just to be able to fit a longer dropper?

 

[Happymtb.fr]

What's the desire, just to be able to fit a longer dropper?

Yes, fitting a dropper I already have.

 

[6thElement]

Yes, fitting a dropper I already have.

Hopefully you can ream down past the main pivot without issue, don't forget you'll need a small slot on the seat tube for the clamp to be able to squeeze.

Have you previously drilled the seat tube above the lower shock mount for internal dropper routing?

 

[Andeh]

now I need to track down the creak coming from my front end. for sure my CSU is creaking, but I think my headset is too. maybe a little grease will help. and if not a new headset will be in order.

anyone have any thoughts on whether a Wolftooth headset would be worth 60% more than a Cane Creek 40 headset?

I ran a Wolf Tooth headset on my Sentinel for about a year and a half, instead of CC 40. The bearings held up to many washings (usually CC40 lasts 6 months for me) but I still had creaking from the front end. I could never figure out whether it was from the headset or the Fox 36 CSU. I repeatedly greased the headset bearings and cups and retorqued the preload, and it would always creak slamming into square hits.
The WT bearings are more comparable to CC 110 than the 40 in terms of quality/durability. The anodized cups are closer to CK.

 

[6thElement]

I ran a Wolf Tooth headset on my Sentinel for about a year and a half, instead of CC 40. The bearings held up to many washings (usually CC40 lasts 6 months for me) but I still had creaking from the front end. I could never figure out whether it was from the headset or the Fox 36 CSU. I repeatedly greased the headset bearings and cups and retorqued the preload, and it would always creak slamming into square hits.
The WT bearings are more comparable to CC 110 than the 40 in terms of quality/durability. The anodized cups are closer to CK.

I generally go with a CC40 and if/when the lower bearing dies swap it for a 110 bearing.

I might look into the CC70 next time I build something from scratch if the frame doesn't come with headset.

 

[Happymtb.fr]

Hopefully you can ream down past the main pivot without issue, don't forget you'll need a small slot on the seat tube for the clamp to be able to squeeze.

Have you previously drilled the seat tube above the lower shock mount for internal dropper routing?

Thanks, I just send a mail to David Turner and ask for his opinion about reaming. Hopefully I don't need to buy a 27.2mm dropper...
I indeed plan on having a slot but wait for the eventual reaming to be done first. That will make things easier

David told me in a previous mail that I could enlarge one of the hole on the forged piece at the bottom of the seat tube to route the dropper.
He is very helpful!

 

[6thElement]

Thanks, I just send a mail to David Turner and ask for his opinion about reaming. Hopefully I don't need to buy a 27.2mm dropper...
I indeed plan on having a slot but wait for the eventual reaming to be done first. That will make things easier

David told me in a previous mail that I could enlarge one of the hole on the forged piece at the bottom of the seat tube to route the dropper.
He is very helpful!

People have definitely drilled the seat tube below the main pivot and just above that lower shock brace to make a dropper hole.

 

[Salami]

goddamit. I finally got all the parts to direct mount my shifter, only to find out it doesn't work. the "trigger" lever of the shifter interferes with the 1-finger brake lever. While not 100% perfect, I could get it much closer to ideal with the standard clamp. Luckily, I was able to buy a used direct-mount adapter for the shifter from one of the guys that works at my LBS, so it wasn't too expensive of a mistake.

Now that I think about it, it took me a bit to sort of the mounting of the shifter to the Magura mount. I was trying to assemble it differently than what seemed correct.

Post some pictures of yours if you like and I'll take a closer look at mine when I get home.

 

[jonKranked]

Halfway to an integrated bong, keep going

dammit, sniped!

 

[iRider]

I indeed plan on having a slot but wait for the eventual reaming to be done first. That will make things easier

Drill a hole at the bottom of the slot first as a stress reliever.

 

[StiHacka]

New stem is funn - hopefully my teeth are now safer.

 

[slyfink]

I've been wanting to go to 165mm cranks for the past year or so, to lessen pedal strikes and preserve my pedals. I'm currently on 175mm SixC w a 24mm axle. I'm quite happy with the Cinch system and have it going on three bikes now, which means I have spare parts as needed.

RaceFace is out of 165 SixC cranks and don't know when they'll be producing more. I can still find 165 Aeffect R, and 165 Atlas cranks. I'm debating whether to wait till the SixC eventually come back in stock, or pick up Aeffect R or Atlas cranks.

I'm not sure I want to take the weight hit of the Atlas (almost 1/2 a pound). I like the price and weight of the Aeffect R, and NSMB reviewed them favourably. Anyone here have time on them?