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New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
I've been wanting to go to 165mm cranks for the past year or so. I'm currently to 175mm SixC w 24mm axle. I'm quite happy with the Cinch system and have it going on three bikes now, which means I have spare parts as needed.

RaceFace is out of 165 SixC cranks. They have 165 Aeffect R, and 165 Atlas. I'm not sure whether to wait till the SixC eventually come back in stock, or to pick up Aeffect R or Atlas'. I like the price and weight of the Aeffect R, and NSMB reviewed them favourably. Anyone here have time on them?
I have a few years on 30mm Cinch cranks, 170mm Turbine and 165mm SixC with a short spindle (mine arrived with a DH spindle). I have been happy with both. The RF BSA30 BB sucks, but there are good alternatives on the market, Rotor being my favorite. My friend has the Aeffect cranks on his trail bike and never had a problem IIRC, although he may have had to buy the self-extracting bolt for the drive side crank.
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,322
5,074
Ottawa, Canada
I have a few years on 30mm Cinch cranks, 170mm Turbine and 165mm SixC with a short spindle (mine arrived with a DH spindle). I have been happy with both. The RF BSA30 BB sucks, but there are good alternatives on the market, Rotor being my favorite. My friend has the Aeffect cranks on his trail bike and never had a problem IIRC, although he may have had to buy the self-extracting bolt for the drive side crank.
I think Aeffect is different from Aeffect R. Aeffect R are 7050 aluminum w a 24mm steel axle (Turbine are 7050 w 30mm 7050Al axle and don't come in 165mm length). The Aeffect are 6066Al. I could also use the aluminum axle in my SixC cranks to lighten the crank even more. I might essentially wind up with a 165 Turbine?

I just don't know how much of a difference the casting or forging and machining is between the cranks, even if they are all 7050Al...
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,322
5,074
Ottawa, Canada
Now that I think about it, it took me a bit to sort of the mounting of the shifter to the Magura mount. I was trying to assemble it differently than what seemed correct.

Post some pictures of yours if you like and I'll take a closer look at mine when I get home.
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this is the problem, I can't fit my finger between the brake lever and the trigger. If I could rotate the shifter body independantly from the brake clamp, even by a couple of degrees, it would be great. But I'm not seeing how that would work.

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Inclag

Turbo Monkey
Sep 9, 2001
2,752
442
MA
View attachment 159665

View attachment 159666

View attachment 159667

this is the problem, I can't fit my finger between the brake lever and the trigger. If I could rotate the shifter body independantly from the brake clamp, even by a couple of degrees, it would be great. But I'm not seeing how that would work.

View attachment 159669
Looks like you have the wrong sided adapter. I've heard this is a common oopsie that Magura owner's make when buying the direct mount adapters.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
15,942
13,192
Looks like you have the wrong sided adapter. I've heard this is a common oopsie that Magura owner's make when buying the direct mount adapters.
What Magura calls the "right" side adapter means the brake clamp is offset to the right of the shifter. I always have to double-check when I'm buying Magura clamp adapters.
 

Salami

Turbo Monkey
Jul 17, 2003
1,784
118
Waxhaw, NC
This is the problem, I can't fit my finger between the brake lever and the trigger. If I could rotate the shifter body independantly from the brake clamp, even by a couple of degrees, it would be great. But I'm not seeing how that would work.

View attachment 159669
I just checked and your set up is identical to mine. I never noticed before but if I use my index finger I have the same clearance issue with the brake lever. Never dawned on me because I have gotten so used to the double up shift and only using my thumb.
 
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6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
15,942
13,192
New alloy OneUp pedals for wife and I to replace very worn plastic versions. The end of the axle was becoming very worn and neither of us wanted it to fail out on a long ride.
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,322
5,074
Ottawa, Canada
Hmmm. It was clearly labeled "for the right lever clamp": https://www.bike24.com/p2403607.html

If I got the other one, it would be offset too much to the right and I wouldn't be able to adjust far enough to the left. All I need is the ability to rotate down a bit... It works very well as a SRAM-style shifter (push-push), and I think this would work very well with the two-finger lever, but it doesn't work well with the 1-finger lever. I prioritize is 1-finger lever over shiftmix integration, so I think I might go back to the original bar-clamp.
 

Salami

Turbo Monkey
Jul 17, 2003
1,784
118
Waxhaw, NC
@slyfink what about modifying the black Magura part that attaches to the shifter? A little file action at the top edge where it touches the handlebar (in your first picture) I would think would allow you to rotate the shifter down away from the brake lever.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,008
982
Hmmm. It was clearly labeled "for the right lever clamp": https://www.bike24.com/p2403607.html

If I got the other one, it would be offset too much to the right and I wouldn't be able to adjust far enough to the left. All I need is the ability to rotate down a bit... It works very well as a SRAM-style shifter (push-push), and I think this would work very well with the two-finger lever, but it doesn't work well with the 1-finger lever. I prioritize is 1-finger lever over shiftmix integration, so I think I might go back to the original bar-clamp.
Do you want to try the other side and slide the shifter the opposite direction? I got a pair of the adapters last year before the EV ones came out and tried to modify one to work with EV. The clamps are fine, only ground on one long "2" piece. Yours for shipping cost.
 

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StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
:think:
It is an older picture, that frame now shreds in Latin America. The axle is a 142x12 Maxle, the ghetto tubeless setup worked really really well.
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,322
5,074
Ottawa, Canada
Do you want to try the other side and slide the shifter the opposite direction? I got a pair of the adapters last year before the EV ones came out and tried to modify one to work with EV. The clamps are fine, only ground on one long "2" piece. Yours for shipping cost.
Thanks for the offer. I think I'll pass though. I'm decently happy with left-right position, it's just the rotation that I'd like to change. I might try grinding that little arm to change the angle, but otherwise I'll go back to the old clamp. it was 90% fine, and I can live with that.

I ran a Wolf Tooth headset on my Sentinel for about a year and a half, instead of CC 40. The bearings held up to many washings (usually CC40 lasts 6 months for me) but I still had creaking from the front end. I could never figure out whether it was from the headset or the Fox 36 CSU. I repeatedly greased the headset bearings and cups and retorqued the preload, and it would always creak slamming into square hits.
The WT bearings are more comparable to CC 110 than the 40 in terms of quality/durability. The anodized cups are closer to CK.
So I installed the CC 40 this weekend. Did not fix the creaking. at this point I'm pretty convinced it's the CSU, which is totally normal IMO for a 5-year old fork.

Before looking at drastic options such as replacing the fork, or even the CSU, I thought I'd investigate other options. I've read about people having some degree of luck with green loctite (290). Anyone here try that?
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,580
1,074
La Verne
I mulleted my pivot 5.5
Went from 160 to 140 to precisely preserve my geometry.

I cut down and re drilled a spare airshaft I had to 140mm, slapped it in my csu and stuck some 29" lowers on.
Friend let me borrow a 29" front wheel.

I usually run an exo dhf
This dd assguy and enve m930 is 530g heaver than my normal setup and I think it detracted a bit from my impression of the test.

20210502_135037.jpg
 
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Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,978
9,638
AK
Before looking at drastic options such as replacing the fork, or even the CSU, I thought I'd investigate other options. I've read about people having some degree of luck with green loctite (290). Anyone here try that?
Read about it many times. It worked zero times.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,008
982
After my ass complaining for a few days after my last longer ride (~3800 ft), I ordered a couple of fancy saddles by ze Germans (SQLab 611 and Ergon SM Enduro Pro). I'd tried older models of both in years past, but this time I did a better job measuring my sit bones and ended up with smaller sizes. I haven't been super impressed with the SQLab despite it getting rave reviews online. I find the fabric texture on the sides & back grabs on my shorts and knee pads, and the wide nose just feels weird. But the Ergon so far is pretty goldilocks: easy to move around while descending, obvious sitting sweet spot with just the right amount of cushion.
 

Nick

My name is Nick
Sep 21, 2001
24,034
14,644
where the trails are
I mulleted my pivot 5.5
Went from 160 to 140 to precisely preserve my geometry.

I cut down and re drilled a spare airshaft I had to 140mm, slapped it in my csu and stuck some 29" lowers on.
Friend let me borrow a 29" front wheel.

I usually run an exo dhf
This dd assguy and enve m730 is 530g heaver than my normal setup and I think it detracted a bit from my impression of the test.

View attachment 159808
Ok so what's up with the Mercedes?
 

dexter

Turbo Monkey
Sep 23, 2001
3,053
99
Boise, Idaho
Sent in my suspension to push for a rebuild while out on vacation with the fam and upper the spring rate to a 500- might even try a 525. What a difference a fresh rebuild makes and some additional damper tuning up front. Also ghetto rigged the reverse components sag indicator onto the 11.6, 6 pack or beer later and a destroyed work bench led to this simple yet elegant execution.
 

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djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,012
1,704
Northern California
Sent in my suspension to push for a rebuild while out on vacation with the fam and upper the spring rate to a 500- might even try a 525. What a difference a fresh rebuild makes and some additional damper tuning up front. Also ghetto rigged the reverse components sag indicator onto the 11.6, 6 pack or beer later and a destroyed work bench led to this simple yet elegant execution.
Word of warning - that Reverse sag indicator starts making creaking noises just like suspension bushings if it's slightly mis-aligned in dry conditions.
 

dexter

Turbo Monkey
Sep 23, 2001
3,053
99
Boise, Idaho
Word of warning - that Reverse sag indicator starts making creaking noises just like suspension bushings if it's slightly mis-aligned in dry conditions.
Thanks for the heads up, I have been realigning it before and after every ride. No issues so far.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,879
24,458
media blackout
My golden Hadley from JonKranked is a rare 108 POE animal. My other Hadley is a common 72 POE.
Pretty sure that wasn't from me. The only gold Hadley Ive had is currently on my Scott. And my 108 freehub is on my trials bike.

edit: Only Hadleys hubs i recall selling were a silver set to HAB, and the other 108 that was in my possession was sold as part of a complete bike to someone else.
 
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jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,879
24,458
media blackout
also, because of the age/revision difference, i don't believe the 108 freehubs work on new hub shells. i seem to recall the freehub didn't fully seal when I tried to put the 108 on my gold hub (which is a newer rev than the hub the 108 came from).
 

Katz

Monkey
Jun 8, 2012
371
788
Arizona
Retired my old WTB Devo. The new one doesn't get in my way as much (tear on the side is from my legs rubbing) and mitigates unrideabru 74-deg ST angle on my obsolete frame to some extent.
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And hoarding tires
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Edit: These just arrived. Not bike parts but made by Fox, with a dead 36 CSU for scale. They are for the drive axles on a Kenworth semi truck. Kinda odd Fox makes these when even Bilstein and Koni don't make any heavy truck dampers. The lizard must have realized there are enough suckers offroad bros who would pay top $ to put the same shocks on their semi trucks as their moto/side-by-side/MTB.
IMG_5552.JPG
 
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djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,012
1,704
Northern California
Thanks for the heads up, I have been realigning it before and after every ride. No issues so far.
That's good. Mine didn't start up until after a few weeks of riding. I almost tore apart the back end of my bike to hunt it down, then figured out it was coming from the sag indicator. I had them on two bikes and both did it, so now I only put them on for tuning. I'll get them adjusted perfectly but a run over rough terrain knocks them out of place; I think it may be the coil twisting and moving the spring clip/thing.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
Pretty sure that wasn't from me. The only gold Hadley Ive had is currently on my Scott. And my 108 freehub is on my trials bike.

edit: Only Hadleys hubs i recall selling were a silver set to HAB, and the other 108 that was in my possession was sold as part of a complete bike to someone else.
So you either have a pretty good doppelganger here, or you sold me something different than what you had advertised. ;)

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