Was the rear end made for you too, or what is it from? Looks great!
New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
The rear end is most likely from a Gambler.
@buckoW
Nice build
I caught a discussion the other day where the designer (engineer?) of the Commencal Supreme wrote that the rear end of the first generation was too flexy. The current generation is improved but they purposefully choose to make the link between the rear triangle and the rocker flexy. The goal of the engineered flexibility was to make the bike turn better.
I wish I knew more in that area.
@buckoW
Nice build
I caught a discussion the other day where the designer (engineer?) of the Commencal Supreme wrote that the rear end of the first generation was too flexy. The current generation is improved but they purposefully choose to make the link between the rear triangle and the rocker flexy. The goal of the engineered flexibility was to make the bike turn better.
I wish I knew more in that area.
That bike looks very fun!
New paint for my Ransom 
First time for me and I am not sure I will ever do it again... it's difficult and very time consuming!
First time for me and I am not sure I will ever do it again... it's difficult and very time consuming!
New paint for my Ransom
First time for me and I am not sure I will ever do it again... it's difficult and very time consuming!
View attachment 160082
I think your frame has a few cracks.
It’s not all that it’s cracked up to be.
Fis-sure.
You guys are cracking me up! 
Not a new piece of equipment but I just bought a new house where the separate bike garage will have a loam line right out of the door to my favorite local trail system, super pumped!
Does anyone in here have an old 6 bolt/20mm/ Front non boost (100mm spacing) front hub laying around? I need one for my frakenproject and there aren't a ton out there. Figured I'd ask in here because it has some of the most traffic.
I have an inexpensive 6 bolt / 20mm axle / 110 non-boost spacing hub NIB, never laced.
eh? non boost DH hubs are still 110 spaced, not 100.
its 15mm non-boost hubs that are 100mm wide.
oh?
Follow up on the Shore. I fucking love this thing. It does just about everything well - blasting chunk, high speed cornering, neutral jumping, neutral braking. It's attitude is pure point and destroy. The only areas to knock it would be slow/tight cornering (who wants to do that on a DH bike anyways) and heft getting it up to speed. It's the best DH bike I've ridden...and as a bonus it has a pedal-able seat angle. Definitely try one out if you're remotely interested in something you can spin up fire roads on, or even just make resort traverses easier.
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@djjohnr
How do you like the Secus on the Boxxer?
I searched for it and didn't find much feedback... not so many people seems to do it.
What cartridge do you run on that boxxer?
Any thoughts about swapping side for the stanchions in order to have the Secus more protected?
Last thing: Secus in reverse reads success
How do you like the Secus on the Boxxer?
I searched for it and didn't find much feedback... not so many people seems to do it.
What cartridge do you run on that boxxer?
Any thoughts about swapping side for the stanchions in order to have the Secus more protected?
Last thing: Secus in reverse reads success
Possibly. Ill trade you a house for it.
i may have a hope kicking around...can't remember. i'll look when i get home.
I have a Transition Revolution 20mm 32h non-boost front hub you can have for the price of shipping.
I dig it. It added more mid-stroke support and initial suppleness, although not as dramatic as adding it to the Lyrik was. Cartridge is a Charger 2.1. Not sure what you mean by swapping the side for the stanchions?@djjohnr
How do you like the Secus on the Boxxer?
I searched for it and didn't find much feedback... not so many people seems to do it.
What cartridge do you run on that boxxer?
Any thoughts about swapping side for the stanchions in order to have the Secus more protected?
Last thing: Secus in reverse reads success
that makes sense given the ratio in chamber size is different since the boxxer has a larger volume air spring.
put the air spring on the right, and the damper on the left (including stanchions)
I'll take it! PM me your paypal and I'll include some beer money as well, thank you so much!
Thanks for everyone's comments on the hub, I love that all us old school dudes always have weird shit sitting around.
Exactly my experience running one in both a 38 and a 40. It's a nice, but subtle improvement in the dual crown, but makes a dramatic difference in the single crown.
Ah got it. RS sells Boxxer stanchions as air spring or damper side specific, so I think there may be differences - either tapering diameter or internal finish.
i think what is being suggested is swap the entire stanchion plus internals. but that would depend on whether or not the lowers have specific interfaces for each stanchion
did you document this somewhere ? I'd love to freshen up my unfinished, black carbon frame someday.New paint for my Ransom
First time for me and I am not sure I will ever do it again... it's difficult and very time consuming!
View attachment 160082
Looks great!!!
Ah, didn't fully think that one through. It may be possible on the Boxxer, would need some research I haven't done. Frankly it hasn't been something I've worried about - it barely sticks out, and when I have trashed lowers in the past it's always been higher up.
Here's what Steve had to say on swapping them (from PB comments) -
Generally speaking no - the lowers (and sometimes stanchions) in many forks are of differing lengths, and the air side of singlecrown forks has an equalization dimple that the damper side doesn't. Fox also use different size footbolts for the damper side and spring side.
I hope you are applying sunscreen
That thing looks sick. One of the ladies here just got the multi-coloured one, and her partner promptly stole it for a DH race. I'm keen to take one for a spin.
Definitely try one. I found the front-center to be a little short for how long the chainstays are at sag (large frame - short leg/long torso rider), but a -1 angleset took care of that.
The footbolt interface is the same on most (if not all?) the RS forks which make super easy to move the air side to the drive side on a double crown fork.Ah, didn't fully think that one through. It may be possible on the Boxxer, would need some research I haven't done. Frankly it hasn't been something I've worried about - it barely sticks out, and when I have trashed lowers in the past it's always been higher up.
Here's what Steve had to say on swapping them (from PB comments) -
VorsprungSuspension (Aug 4, 2020 at 11:30)
Generally speaking no - the lowers (and sometimes stanchions) in many forks are of differing lengths, and the air side of singlecrown forks has an equalization dimple that the damper side doesn't. Fox also use different size footbolts for the damper side and spring side.
Kind of similar, I have seen a few people mounting a smashpot on the damper side of their single crown RS fork so that eventual scratches from the coil would not damage the inside of the dimpled stanchion. They of course moved the damper to the non drive side of the fork. The thread at the top of the stanchions is apparently the same.
Thanks!
No I didn't document it. It is my first time spray painting anything actually. I did many mistakes and still have a lot to learn !
I watched a few video from this ETOE channel https://youtube.com/c/ETOE as guidance.
2K primer and 2K clear coat is what Dangerholm recommends. I used Montana Gold for the colour and crackle.
Do get a proper breathing mask, mine was a 3M 7500 with cartridges. Very comfortable and didn't even smell the paint / thinner when using it.
With motorcycle tires if I or someone at the house has recently driven a car anywhere I set the new tire on top of the motor and set the hood down on it. Remove the old tire and install the nice warm heat soaked tire.
