New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
jtfc. I can't get my new fucking wheel to seal. Spank Spike Race 33. Bought their tape. Bought their valves. Air keeps coming through the nipples. I have retaped it 3x. Had the shop build my wheel (and what a sweet build it was, perfectly true, perfectly even tension) They use TESA tape, that they had wrapped around 3x. I goofed when I put the tire on, and tore the tape with my tire lever.
So I removed that, and did a double pass using the Fratelli 25mm tape, going to the edges each time and overlapping in the middle. Put another fresh tire on with tube in it and let it sit over night. Used Stans sealant instead of the
-approved homebrew. Put tire and insert in carefully to avoid touching the tape. Seated the tire with the help of a bit of soapy water, and the bead was seated evenly all along both sidewalls. Used the Spank valve (which looks pretty much identical to Stans, just with a black shaft) with an extra "inner tube washer" over the base. Poked the hole in tape for the valve with a heated awl, went all the way to the rim edge. Air came through the nipples overnight. When I removed the tires, I noticed I hadn't really applied the tape properly and it was quite wrinkly. I assume sealant had gotten in there and created a path for air to escape?
So I removed the Fratelli tape and did a 3x pass of a narrower TESA tape I've used successfully in the past. Started in the middle over the spoke holes, then one side all the way to the sidewall, then the other side. Again mounted a dry tire and tube to press against the tape overnight. Re-used the old Stans, and topped it up a bit. Still used tire levers to install the tires, but carefully to not touch the tape. Realized I mounted the tire on backwards after seating the first bead, so took it off and did it the right way around. Same valve, same inner tube washer, same technique to poke the hole in the tape. Air came through the spoke holes (though much slower this time). Did a ride like this, and was losing about 5 psi per hour. I would stop and add air at the top of each descent. Got through the ride, but adding air like that is a pain - my buddies were patient, but I may not get away with this a second time!
So I decided to try again, but this time using a high quality electrical tape over the spoke holes, then 2-passes of the Fratelli tape again, one on each side. Instead of mounting a tire and tube (I'm theorizing this might be pushing the tape around as I mount and dismount the tire), I used a 20" tube that I stretched onto the rim and let it sit for 3 hours. Poked the valve hole using a heated awl again, but didn't go all the way to the edge. I used the same valve, but without the inner tube washer this time. Then I mounted the tire carefully - by hand, no tire levers (after being mounted three times, the beads are nicely stretched! Still tight, but do-able by hand with the right technique). I poured fresh Stans in before closing the last bit of bead. Tire aired up nicely with a floor pump, bead is evenly seated. Air is still coming through the fucking nipples.
WHAT THE FUCK AM I DOING WRONG?!?! At this point, I'm ready to toss the whole fucking this in a raging dumpster fire. I've been riding tubeless for .... over 15 years? This is the first time I haven't been able to seal a rim. It's not even my first time using Spank rims. WTF is going on???
So I removed that, and did a double pass using the Fratelli 25mm tape, going to the edges each time and overlapping in the middle. Put another fresh tire on with tube in it and let it sit over night. Used Stans sealant instead of the
-approved homebrew. Put tire and insert in carefully to avoid touching the tape. Seated the tire with the help of a bit of soapy water, and the bead was seated evenly all along both sidewalls. Used the Spank valve (which looks pretty much identical to Stans, just with a black shaft) with an extra "inner tube washer" over the base. Poked the hole in tape for the valve with a heated awl, went all the way to the rim edge. Air came through the nipples overnight. When I removed the tires, I noticed I hadn't really applied the tape properly and it was quite wrinkly. I assume sealant had gotten in there and created a path for air to escape?So I removed the Fratelli tape and did a 3x pass of a narrower TESA tape I've used successfully in the past. Started in the middle over the spoke holes, then one side all the way to the sidewall, then the other side. Again mounted a dry tire and tube to press against the tape overnight. Re-used the old Stans, and topped it up a bit. Still used tire levers to install the tires, but carefully to not touch the tape. Realized I mounted the tire on backwards after seating the first bead, so took it off and did it the right way around. Same valve, same inner tube washer, same technique to poke the hole in the tape. Air came through the spoke holes (though much slower this time). Did a ride like this, and was losing about 5 psi per hour. I would stop and add air at the top of each descent. Got through the ride, but adding air like that is a pain - my buddies were patient, but I may not get away with this a second time!
So I decided to try again, but this time using a high quality electrical tape over the spoke holes, then 2-passes of the Fratelli tape again, one on each side. Instead of mounting a tire and tube (I'm theorizing this might be pushing the tape around as I mount and dismount the tire), I used a 20" tube that I stretched onto the rim and let it sit for 3 hours. Poked the valve hole using a heated awl again, but didn't go all the way to the edge. I used the same valve, but without the inner tube washer this time. Then I mounted the tire carefully - by hand, no tire levers (after being mounted three times, the beads are nicely stretched! Still tight, but do-able by hand with the right technique). I poured fresh Stans in before closing the last bit of bead. Tire aired up nicely with a floor pump, bead is evenly seated. Air is still coming through the fucking nipples.
WHAT THE FUCK AM I DOING WRONG?!?! At this point, I'm ready to toss the whole fucking this in a raging dumpster fire. I've been riding tubeless for .... over 15 years? This is the first time I haven't been able to seal a rim. It's not even my first time using Spank rims. WTF is going on???
jtfc. I can't get my new fucking wheel to seal. Spank Spike Race 33. Bought their tape. Bought their valves. Air keeps coming through the nipples. I have retaped it 3x. Had the shop build my wheel (and what a sweet build it was, perfectly true, perfectly even tension) They use TESA tape, that they had wrapped around 3x. I goofed when I put the tire on, and tore the tape with my tire lever.
So I removed that, and did a double pass using the Fratelli 25mm tape, going to the edges each time and overlapping in the middle. Put another fresh tire on with tube in it and let it sit over night. Used Stans sealant instead of the
So I removed the Fratelli tape and did a 3x pass of a narrower TESA tape I've used successfully in the past. Started in the middle over the spoke holes, then one side all the way to the sidewall, then the other side. Again mounted a dry tire and tube to press against the tape overnight. Re-used the old Stans, and topped it up a bit. Still used tire levers to install the tires, but carefully to not touch the tape. Realized I mounted the tire on backwards after seating the first bead, so took it off and did it the right way around. Same valve, same inner tube washer, same technique to poke the hole in the tape. Air came through the spoke holes (though much slower this time). Did a ride like this, and was losing about 5 psi per hour. I would stop and add air at the top of each descent. Got through the ride, but adding air like that is a pain - my buddies were patient, but I may not get away with this a second time!
So I decided to try again, but this time using a high quality electrical tape over the spoke holes, then 2-passes of the Fratelli tape again, one on each side. Instead of mounting a tire and tube (I'm theorizing this might be pushing the tape around as I mount and dismount the tire), I used a 20" tube that I stretched onto the rim and let it sit for 3 hours. Poked the valve hole using a heated awl again, but didn't go all the way to the edge. I used the same valve, but without the inner tube washer this time. Then I mounted the tire carefully - by hand, no tire levers (after being mounted three times, the beads are nicely stretched! Still tight, but do-able by hand with the right technique). I poured fresh Stans in before closing the last bit of bead. Tire aired up nicely with a floor pump, bead is evenly seated. Air is still coming through the fucking nipples.
WHAT THE FUCK AM I DOING WRONG?!?! At this point, I'm ready to toss the whole fucking this in a raging dumpster fire. I've been riding tubeless for .... over 15 years? This is the first time I haven't been able to seal a rim. It's not even my first time using Spank rims. WTF is going on???
I've recently had the same problem with a few wheels. First of all some valve stems need to be tightened down a lot harder than I would think is safe. I've found some RTV on them where they touch the rim can help. The tape on another wheel kept getting pushed out of position, a layer of gorilla tape solved that.
what's RTV?
silicon sealant.
No tire levers. They tend to pinch the tape and allow an air pathway.
Gloves make a giant difference, especially grip-gloves. Even still, every once and a while you will upset the tape getting the bead back over. I heard that alcohol is even better at making the rim slippery and it seems to work, although it doesn't last long. Unless you have significant hand/strength problems, I would not recommend tire levers. I use the lever to set partially set the bead for airing up, but never to get on/off.
Gloves make a giant difference, especially grip-gloves. Even still, every once and a while you will upset the tape getting the bead back over. I heard that alcohol is even better at making the rim slippery and it seems to work, although it doesn't last long. Unless you have significant hand/strength problems, I would not recommend tire levers. I use the lever to set partially set the bead for airing up, but never to get on/off.
Since i make my own sealant, one of my base ingredients is the Michael's Mold Builder (latex). I will just take some raw latex and paint it around the base of the valve before inserting it. Works well.
Hopefully something in this helps:
Make sure there's no dimple holes near where it butts together or higher on sides ..I did that once and the rim had dimple holes....
Gorilla tape , clean rim alcohol and wrap that stuff tight 2 times...
Take a cloth on thumb and run it around rim low and ho sides...
Make sure it's semi warm...when you put tire on a little soap and water to not allow tire head to pull on tape edge.
Make sure the valve is seated it will leak into inner chamber and come out spoke holes....
Maybe use a little rubberized tape square over valve hole poke little hole in it feed valve through to give extra seal
With tire on run a little sealant on outside between rim and tire both sides before filling...it will glue bead to rim a hell of a lot better...done this for years and glued my tires to rims several times lol...
Make sure there's no dimple holes near where it butts together or higher on sides ..I did that once and the rim had dimple holes....
Gorilla tape , clean rim alcohol and wrap that stuff tight 2 times...
Take a cloth on thumb and run it around rim low and ho sides...
Make sure it's semi warm...when you put tire on a little soap and water to not allow tire head to pull on tape edge.
Make sure the valve is seated it will leak into inner chamber and come out spoke holes....
Maybe use a little rubberized tape square over valve hole poke little hole in it feed valve through to give extra seal
With tire on run a little sealant on outside between rim and tire both sides before filling...it will glue bead to rim a hell of a lot better...done this for years and glued my tires to rims several times lol...
I had a rim that just did not stick to the stans tape last year. Not sure what happened, if it was paint overspray or they changed the formula, I tried everything, cleaning really well, etc. I finally got a bontrager rim strip and damn, that worked like a charm. They make them in a lot of different widths/sizes, so chances are you can find one that fits.
thanks everyone... some useful info in here...
: always use, or don't use anymore?
when you say rubberized tape for the hole... you think the 3M mastic tape will work? That could be a good option come to think of it...
This is ridiculous....
was just looking at the Bontrager rims strips in a shop yesterday. They seem pre-shaped to their specific rim profile, so I'm not certain it will play well with Spank's "w" rim shape....
do you apply a thin coat around the base and let it dry before use? make a bead and put it in wet?
always use... anymore....
: always use, or don't use anymore?ran out of the mold builder, which is why I decided to try Stans again. May have to try this though.
I've been dubious about using gorilla tape because of residue reasons... also not sure it will play well with the W profile of the rim. pretty sure the seal is tight against the sidewall, but will double check. I forgot to mention I used a cloth to really warm up and work the tape down into the channels and grooves.
when you say rubberized tape for the hole... you think the 3M mastic tape will work? That could be a good option come to think of it...
This is ridiculous....
IMO all you should need to do is: install new tape, install fresh, clean tube and fresh, clean tire, pump to 50 or so, and leave it overnight.
The next day, the tape should be properly fastened to the rim, so you can proceed with removing tube and adding the jizz.
Tape properly adhered doesn't allow jizz through the spoke holes. Often the jizz is getting under the tape around the valve stem.
Try Gorilla Tape if the plastic-y yellow tape doesn't work.
Beyond that, I'd suggest SPANK is your problem.
The next day, the tape should be properly fastened to the rim, so you can proceed with removing tube and adding the jizz.
Tape properly adhered doesn't allow jizz through the spoke holes. Often the jizz is getting under the tape around the valve stem.
Try Gorilla Tape if the plastic-y yellow tape doesn't work.
Beyond that, I'd suggest SPANK is your problem.
@rideit to the authentic phone please
I gave up with the spank fratelli tape and trying to use their rims tubeless on the set of DH wheels I bought my wife. I sold them and bought some DT Swiss wheels instead.
I could never get the tape to seal properly with their oompa lumpa rim profile.
Yeah that should work or vinyl patch repair tabla work for vinyl boats and paddle boards...sticky as heck thicker and rubbery...just need it to squish and fill any void...
Gorilla tape cleans easy if using non carbon rims some brake cleaner on a rag takes residue off semi quick.....them just alcohol wipe when finished...
I have fought some rims the last one I fought was kept leaking from spokes...usuually I can get the valve to seal but I had to use a wrench a bit and crank it down.
I've done the vinyl repair tape trick too...works...
Another had 2 small holes side by side every 3rd of the rim circumference on the high shoulder so it was hard to get....
Another was dented so bad and cracked, shit i retired it...I tried but it was hammered.
Oh yeah, DT Swiss and similar valve stems that include a valve nut designed to hold an o-ring can be helpful. If I were buying new valve stems, I'd get a type like that over the standard stainless nut.
“Poor man’s Bib-Mousse”…and sound damping for inside car doors. You won’t regret it.
My Mega came with Mavic Deemax which i was initially very skeptical of. Months later I'm pleasantly surprised - not one issue and I've got to say FUCK YEAH UST.
No rim tape. Just one valve hole and the supplied valves work perfectly. Seats any tyre I've tried with a floor pump. No worry about using tyre levers. So far I'm stoked.
Only real gripe is the rear hub engagement points are quite low (literature says 60, but I count 30 and have been too lazy to pull it apart and investigate).
Rims are wide enough these days that pretty much any of them could take a threaded nutsert like insert for spokes, would work with any rim material.
I use this or rubber cement. Both work well, since most the time the valve is the issue if air is leaking.
Spank 350 VC
Alcohol wipe down.
Two wraps of Kapton tape.
The internal profile does make it a bit of a ball ache.
Original Stans formula.
Several tire changes over the last couple years.
No problems so far.
Alcohol wipe down.
Two wraps of Kapton tape.
The internal profile does make it a bit of a ball ache.
Original Stans formula.
Several tire changes over the last couple years.
No problems so far.
Just curious: is the rim joint welded? I had that once with a leak coming from a rim joint that the rim tape was not sealing. Taped it shut with electrical tape and then the rim tape on top. It did hold air after that.jtfc. I can't get my new fucking wheel to seal. Spank Spike Race 33. Bought their tape. Bought their valves. Air keeps coming through the nipples. I have retaped it 3x. Had the shop build my wheel (and what a sweet build it was, perfectly true, perfectly even tension) They use TESA tape, that they had wrapped around 3x. I goofed when I put the tire on, and tore the tape with my tire lever.
So I removed that, and did a double pass using the Fratelli 25mm tape, going to the edges each time and overlapping in the middle. Put another fresh tire on with tube in it and let it sit over night. Used Stans sealant instead of the
So I removed the Fratelli tape and did a 3x pass of a narrower TESA tape I've used successfully in the past. Started in the middle over the spoke holes, then one side all the way to the sidewall, then the other side. Again mounted a dry tire and tube to press against the tape overnight. Re-used the old Stans, and topped it up a bit. Still used tire levers to install the tires, but carefully to not touch the tape. Realized I mounted the tire on backwards after seating the first bead, so took it off and did it the right way around. Same valve, same inner tube washer, same technique to poke the hole in the tape. Air came through the spoke holes (though much slower this time). Did a ride like this, and was losing about 5 psi per hour. I would stop and add air at the top of each descent. Got through the ride, but adding air like that is a pain - my buddies were patient, but I may not get away with this a second time!
So I decided to try again, but this time using a high quality electrical tape over the spoke holes, then 2-passes of the Fratelli tape again, one on each side. Instead of mounting a tire and tube (I'm theorizing this might be pushing the tape around as I mount and dismount the tire), I used a 20" tube that I stretched onto the rim and let it sit for 3 hours. Poked the valve hole using a heated awl again, but didn't go all the way to the edge. I used the same valve, but without the inner tube washer this time. Then I mounted the tire carefully - by hand, no tire levers (after being mounted three times, the beads are nicely stretched! Still tight, but do-able by hand with the right technique). I poured fresh Stans in before closing the last bit of bead. Tire aired up nicely with a floor pump, bead is evenly seated. Air is still coming through the fucking nipples.
WHAT THE FUCK AM I DOING WRONG?!?! At this point, I'm ready to toss the whole fucking this in a raging dumpster fire. I've been riding tubeless for .... over 15 years? This is the first time I haven't been able to seal a rim. It's not even my first time using Spank rims. WTF is going on???
Can you get a spare rim? If you crash one of yours and want to repair the wheel
Well smack my arse an call me Sally. did another ride last night, and had to top up 2x. but when I got home the tire was still inflated. and it's still inflated this morning... maybe everything just needed a bit of time to settle in and fully seal things up. hopefully it holds.
It's a faff, but it seems to be holding air for the time being... fingers crossed.
Now if only Canada Post could deliver my boostinator kit so I can install that beautiful new fork sitting in a box in my basement....
No, they're sleeved. I guess they're designed to flex. I suspect this has something to do with it. This is specifically why the recommend taping all the way to the sidewall and using a fairly flexible tape.
It's a faff, but it seems to be holding air for the time being... fingers crossed.
Now if only Canada Post could deliver my boostinator kit so I can install that beautiful new fork sitting in a box in my basement....
mavic is making UST rims again?
Boostinator kit is finally here, and tire is still holding air. Just in time to go canoe camping on an island for a week.
But seriously, I am stoked.
Probably not actually. I'd end up just getting a new wheel. Probably go back to Hope Pro4 and DT 471 or something. I'll enjoy it while it lasts.
Those French bastards, no thought about sustainability!
but you can recycle it?Those French bastards, no thought about sustainability!
Online you can find replacement rims for both 29" and 27.5" wheels, e.g. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/mavic-e-deemax-deemax-pro-front/137660473/p
Awesome. Cheers for that.
