New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
No bottle cage, no care!
Looks flexy.
I’m going shuttling on it tomorrow with a bunch of friends for my brother’s birthday… Wish me luck!
I’ll bring a handful of gussets and slap ‘em on there between runs.
@slimshady Chassis compliance! The wet root whisperer?
Does it come in rootbeer?
case in point, a premium product does not require premium packaging. unbleached kraft, 1C print op. these are high performance / premium products. nobody is buying them because they come in a nice box.
BuckoW, way to do it! 
Have fun and report back. Partly so we can hear how it rides, but mostly so we know you didn't die.
Have fun and report back. Partly so we can hear how it rides, but mostly so we know you didn't die.
Silly putty is your friend. Didn't Yoann or Vinny T strap some weights to their bikes to improve the handling?
As a current polished frame Commie bike owner (meta power tr) I approve this message!
Understated is definitely one way of doing premium. Now, if it came in a ziploc bag with a warehouse sticker on it (like my oneUp did), and it cost $999 ... we might have a different conversation.
Finally found a guy dumping his shop stuff lol...he's got a few more I need to get...I think I overpaid gave him $2k
Could have low balled him he's moving and probably would have gone $1600. But I knew I wanted it and can redo al my tools now...
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Like a float?Does it come in rootbeer?
(Oh man, I've been watching too much Big Mouth...)
idk i don't think $2k is that crazy if the stuff is in good condition. the retail price on a lot of the specialty items - headset/bearing presses, alignment tools, etc - is pretty high and it adds up quick. retail on that shop stand along is close to $700, and that's without a base.
Yeah, I think that's a pretty good find. Some of the Park specialty tools are crazy expensive considering how simple they can be. I think their fancy crown race setter is like $200 alone (compared to my $2 piece of 2" PVC). Each wrench is like $12-15.
why so many spacers instead of just making the steering tube longer?
I remember when 1.5 headsets came out and I had to bend my 1.125 cup remover a little out. Then came press fit BBs. 3 tools in one.
Some of the Park stuff is not great, but some is good. They just aren’t 100% consistent in every area/tool IMO.
Built 1 wall grabbed wood hit it with a torch then laid out tools...going to do the wheel building side tonight same way.
@OGRipper I’m alive!
The amateur welding trust exercise was a huge success! It almost felt like the time i got in a 2 seater Cesna with my wife as the pilot…. The bike held up and felt real good. It was so fun to ride that I ended up hitting some jumps on the first run, haha. I changed the kinematics a bunch using the fundamental principles of Bongshed theory and it worked fuggin awesome! So supple off the top and impossible to bottom.
I made an aesthetic compromise there in exchange for more adjustability on this one. That’s kinda why I tried to make nice looking topcap, dust cap and spacers. The last one I used a longer headtube and a higher rise bar to get the no spacer look. When I get my head around the various things like tig welding, etc. I will try and refine the aesthetics but not before I get ‘‘em running sweet as.
My last frame (picture above) had no spacers and a longer headtube which is fine if I always run the same size front wheel. I wanted to make this bike more of a play bike and sometimes run a little front wheel. I also wanted a lower top tube so the tt is welded on lower on a shorter headtube. I sometimes put a 170 or 180 or 200mm travel fork on the front end which also changes the front end height. In addition, I wanted to leave a little room to run a lower bar because I made the rear more progressive and if it was too soft off the top and running too deep in the travel then I wanted a way to pull my weight forward to get better balance with a lower bar height. I’m nerding out pretty hard here!
Since I live in a steep place and rode it in the WC DH track yesterday it has a high bar setup for shuttles. If I were climbing and riding flatter trails then I run the bar lower.
She does seated manuals pretty good.
@jstuhlman & @kidwoo The SixC bars and cranks endured one more day and no mid day gusset welding was needed.
The amateur welding trust exercise was a huge success! It almost felt like the time i got in a 2 seater Cesna with my wife as the pilot…. The bike held up and felt real good. It was so fun to ride that I ended up hitting some jumps on the first run, haha. I changed the kinematics a bunch using the fundamental principles of Bongshed theory and it worked fuggin awesome! So supple off the top and impossible to bottom.
I made an aesthetic compromise there in exchange for more adjustability on this one. That’s kinda why I tried to make nice looking topcap, dust cap and spacers. The last one I used a longer headtube and a higher rise bar to get the no spacer look. When I get my head around the various things like tig welding, etc. I will try and refine the aesthetics but not before I get ‘‘em running sweet as.
My last frame (picture above) had no spacers and a longer headtube which is fine if I always run the same size front wheel. I wanted to make this bike more of a play bike and sometimes run a little front wheel. I also wanted a lower top tube so the tt is welded on lower on a shorter headtube. I sometimes put a 170 or 180 or 200mm travel fork on the front end which also changes the front end height. In addition, I wanted to leave a little room to run a lower bar because I made the rear more progressive and if it was too soft off the top and running too deep in the travel then I wanted a way to pull my weight forward to get better balance with a lower bar height. I’m nerding out pretty hard here!
Since I live in a steep place and rode it in the WC DH track yesterday it has a high bar setup for shuttles. If I were climbing and riding flatter trails then I run the bar lower.
She does seated manuals pretty good.
@jstuhlman & @kidwoo The SixC bars and cranks endured one more day and no mid day gusset welding was needed.
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I’ve done that a few times. I know Vinny hasn’t and I don’t know about Yoann. The rear wheel tracks better and better the more weight I put on the bb. I like it and want to make the heaviest chain guide I can. Winter project.
The brakes - Great choice.
Dominions?
Which ones? funny because there was a Cura 4 up front and a Dominion A4 out back.
Thanks! I will go bend some down tubes at my buddy’s place and practice some welding to refine the next one a bit. Pulse mode on the welder looks to be what I should have been doing. Just a fun but casual long term hobby.
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Did you slap on the ‘vibration damping’ carbon fiber gussets?
We didn’t do any carbon fiber gusseting. However, the margs between runs made the for the most glorious vibrations with zero damping.
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My Dad is a photographer and I learned about cropping photos at a young age. If only I could crop out my shitty welding….
Here’s the mismatched and uncut housing’s brake in question.
Didn't like the white wall showing so added too it I'll have bike related COOL stuff to add tomorrow...
I got some Profiles a few years ago and I was pretty impressed by the packaging, the way the spindle expands at the ends and the way they dump dirt on to the splines, not so much, would not bang again.
EDIT- Oh and they rust out from the inside because they have a big breather hole and no rust treatment inside.
That's probably around $10-$15 in packaging, maybe more depending on how that lid was printed.
I lied more bike repair stuff lol...so this is PRS-02 #3...$160 so had to go to Los Angeles and get it...got big plans for fork stand on bench using this stand ....it doesn't have a big plate for metal base but I have one .. I think for price I'll get creative with a highly moveable and lockable fork stand that will adjust from steer tube to lowers to hold onto..mordered runner clamp pads.
Going to dump the crappy arm I had on table.
Going to dump the crappy arm I had on table.