[HardtailHack]

I'm a pretty basic human but I found wheel building to be fairly easy.

Servicing dropper posts however, let's just say I turned a Magura and a Thompson in to expensive hammers, hahaha!

 

[bullcrew]

I'm a pretty basic human but I found wheel building to be fairly easy.

Servicing dropper posts however, let's just say I turned a Magura and a Thompson in to expensive hammers, hahaha!

Droppers can be a pain in the @$$...reverbs are turds...fox and the proprietary tools of doom..
I've got all the special tools and info them but more as a courtesy...they aren't a money maker but it helps locals out...

So don't feel bad about that lol ..I turned a reverb into a mess on the hydraulic press the other day..pissed me off so I flattened it completely....as much as press would lol...

That said one up and the replaceable cartridge and low stack height is a great dropper
..

 

[HardtailHack]

Droppers can be a pain in the @$$...reverbs are turds...fox and the proprietary tools of doom..
I've got all the special tools and info them but more as a courtesy...they aren't a money maker but it helps locals out...

So don't feel bad about that lol ..I turned a reverb into a mess on the hydraulic press the other day..pissed me off so I flattened it completely....as much as press would lol...

That said one up and the replaceable cartridge and low stack height is a great dropper
..

I'm going to have a crack at my Reverb AXS next week.
It's four years old and the bush is totally flogged so it's time to do a 600hr service.

 

[bullcrew]

I'm going to have a crack at my Reverb AXS next week.
It's four years old and the bush is totally flogged so it's time to do a 600hr service.

Make sure to set IFP to correct depth, be carefull with the internal push rod the end is flimsy at best (internal rod).
Follow directions on it , and it's not bad..make sure the plastic bushings on inner to outer housing shaft and guide pins are set and slik honey in there..use slik honey to hold guide pins in when you assemble it...there's 3 and one only lines up with back groove for post orientation to be right its tell tale..

One note on bushings, make sure they are in place and good (one presses in when you screw cap down on shaft with seal, other sits on end in a groove of inner shaft. ...I have repaired scratches on shaft from them failing and leaning into outer shaft edge..leaves trenches in shaft.

 

[canadmos]

leaves trenches in shaft.

Nobody likes a trenched out shaft.

 

[bullcrew]

Nobody likes a trenched out shaft.

Or hole!

 

[rideit]

I'm a pretty basic human but I found wheel building to be fairly easy.

TBF, when I started building wheels, the rims for MTB were shit until the 231 came along. All of those Arayas, Sunn, Velox, etc…really goddamn hard to make them actually round, laterally true, and tensioned correctly to be strong.
Today rims are basically tanks.

 

[Jm_]

I had a bike shop build my first Mammoth DH rim with Alpine III spokes and White Industries Boxxer hub and after that...I was building my own except for the odd crazy deal (like Azonic wheelset for $200) from time to time.

 

[rideit]

^^^^^yes, rims of that ilk were exceptions, for sure.

 

[HardtailHack]

Make sure to set IFP to correct depth, be carefull with the internal push rod the end is flimsy at best (internal rod).
Follow directions on it , and it's not bad..make sure the plastic bushings on inner to outer housing shaft and guide pins are set and slik honey in there..use slik honey to hold guide pins in when you assemble it...there's 3 and one only lines up with back groove for post orientation to be right its tell tale..

One note on bushings, make sure they are in place and good (one presses in when you screw cap down on shaft with seal, other sits on end in a groove of inner shaft. ...I have repaired scratches on shaft from them failing and leaning into outer shaft edge..leaves trenches in shaft.

Cheers dude!

I found a vid on YouTube that seems decent so I'll watch that after I fuck it up.
After that I might have a go at my Vyron V3, it was sorta faulty from new but post back to Germany was too expensive(Aussie distro had none). Pretty sure there was some swarf or something stuck in it, from the factory it was set above the max pressure rating but stopped extending fully after a couple of weeks and it got a little line up the stanchion.

You seem to like your American gear, have you tried Bojo picks at all? I quite like 'em*
and the trim clip tools.

Bojo Tools Offers You Plastic Scrapers, Pry Bars & Specialty Tools.

Bojo Tools manufactures high quality plastic scrapers, pry bars, sealant nozzles, and many other specialty tools that help reduce the risk of damaging delicate components or surfaces.

bojotools.com

*Have only really used them on automotive stuff and some small hydraulic cylinders.

 

[slyfink]

GOOD FOR YOU!!!!!
That's awesome man ..yeah it's amazing how it cuts ..it also reduces inflammation in joints...

23lbs is huge for knees, cardio and joints...

Here's a kicker ..even if you burn off calories and sugar ..it still causes issues maybe not fat but inflammation , sugar low, cravings etc...

It causes visceral fat "skinny fat" it's worse than the visible fat as it stores next to organs and blood stream....silent killer. Also increases chances of diabetes.
You feel better, faster, less aches, cool down better, overall more energy when it's out of your system...takes a moment but it's a damn good thing ..

Good for you Gary...

when you say "it", what are you referring to? Sugar? or caffeine? or something else in those energy drinks?

 

[bullcrew]

when you say "it", what are you referring to? Sugar? or caffeine? or something else in those energy drinks?

Sugar primarily
There's alot in those drinks though, my wife's on a cardiac floor for 12+ years. Can cause lethal rhythm and a few other items. Apparently can be worse in young people. My guess to that is cause they drink alot of them .

 

[jonKranked]

when you say "it", what are you referring to? Sugar? or caffeine? or something else in those energy drinks?

whiskey

 

[Nick]

@bullcrew any chance you have a 170 air shaft laying around for an Ohlins RXF36?

 

[FlipSide]

In terms of reliability, I never understood why Reverb droppers have been so good for me. I let my mechanic do the rebuilds however.

Reverb #1: Reverb with external routing circa 2012 (or 2013?), which is still in used by the kid who purchased my old bike earlier this year. Never had a problem with it. Full rebuild every 3 years or so, preventive lever bleed every year.

Reverb #2: Stealth routing Reverb that came on my 2018 bike. Again, quite reliable. Full rebuild every 3 years and preventive lever bleed every year. It developed a tiny bit of sag earlier this year, which triggered a full rebuild that was overdue anyway. The only issue I had was the Thingamajig bleed-less connector that self-destructed when I installed the post back after the last rebuild. Yeah, that sucked and I was not impressed, but that's it.

Reverb #3: Stealth routing Reverb that came on my wife's 2020 bike. Never had an issue with it, but she doesn't ride a lot.

When I need to purchase a dropper for a bike, I go for a OneUp for sure, but if I get a complete bike with a Reverb, I keep it and wish my lucky streak continues.

 

[bullcrew]

@bullcrew any chance you have a 170 air shaft laying around for an Ohlins RXF36?

I do, 4 or 5 of em

 

[mykel]

I have an early production first gen Reverb.
Anybody want to have a crack at it?

 

[DaveW]

I'd have a crack at it.... With a sledgehammer.

 

[bullcrew]

I'd have a crack at it.... With a sledgehammer.

Got a vise you can use ..does a pretty damn good job...flattens the problem right out of existence...

 

[bullcrew]

Tore down v10 to look for issues and see if I'm motivated enough to buy me phoenix...so decided to go over stuff and got a stack, new spring and retainers coming from Craig (new design) ..figured I'd look at stuff and just inspect...

Btw this spring is larger and heavier than replacement coming..this one is 450g just spring. (Older spring and capture design)

Chris is at factory right now overseeing QA and production of his vampire bikes so I have one of those coming ...that one I'm excited to mess with ..
So there's new oil in fork, that's what I added..lol

 

[sethimus]

I have an early production first gen Reverb.
Anybody want to have a crack at it?

you need to smoke crack after trying to service it

 

[mykel]

you need to smoke crack after trying to service it

...and that is why it has been sitting in the parts bin for 5 or 6 years. Looked it up, got scared and ran away. No crack required.

 

[Milleratio]

Mondraker on Instagram: "The closest you can get to feeling like @ronnadunne_dh, @pinkerton.ryan and @daknorton would be shredding on their bikes, right? SUMMUM RR Mullet. As ‘pro’ as the ‘pros’… RACING NEVER ENDS #mondrakerbikes #mondrakerdna #mondraker #mtb #dh #downhill"

1,837 likes, 17 comments - mondrakerbikes on October 13, 2024: "The closest you can get to feeling like @ronnadunne_dh, @pinkerton.ryan and @daknorton would be shredding on their bikes, right? SUMMUM RR Mullet. As ‘pro’ as the ‘pros’… RACING NEVER ENDS #mondrakerbikes #mondrakerdna...

www.instagram.com

Is Mondraker running out of ideas as the budget aluminium frame is now equipped with top-tier parts and called RR?

I wonder when the real new Summum RR will be released and if it will be aluminium, like the World Cup prototypes, or fancy and well-hated carbon, as we know here.

 

[jonKranked]

I wonder when the real new Summum RR will be released and if it will be aluminium, like the World Cup prototypes, or fancy and well-hated carbon, as we know here.

they wouldn't be the only company reverting to alloy for the DH bike.... trek comes to mind.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

they wouldn't be the only company reverting to alloy for the DH bike.... trek comes to mind.

And norco...

 

[HardtailHack]

Still waiting for my seat post and fork service kit but I have a couple of bottles of spenshun oilz.

 

[slyfink]

so I've come to the conclusion there is no substitute for heavy-duty casing tires. I used double down casings for a few years, and was able to actually wear out tires before killing them. Then inserts came along. I've been using them for a couple of years now, and have managed to kill a few tires in those years by pinching them, pulling knobs off or putting large gashes in them. Usually as a result of trying to air over a rock garden and not quite clearing it... I also discovered the 'run flat' promise isn't quite as I'd thought. With the Tannus, they're too low-profile and you couldn't run them. So you'd have to pull it out and figure out how to bring it home. I killed a tire this weekend (Spesh Butcher Grid Trail) using Rimpact Pro. I was at a trail centre that had a pretty smooth access trail, so was able to ride it out, but it wouldn't work on anything properly rocky.

so I've ordered a DHR2 in DD again. I'll try that without an insert. I'm hoping I don't trade off killing tires for killing off rims. That wouldn't be a good exchange.

fwiw, these Rimpact Pros have been on my bike 2 seasons:
View attachment 219453

this one is cut straight through:
View attachment 219454
I think that's the one that killed my tire....

I'll see how long it takes me to kill my rim, that rim has been on there 3 years, which is a record for me. Could be the rim (Spank Spike 33), could be the build, could be the inserts. We shall see.

didn't want to jinx it by posting last night... but I finished the set up of my new DD DHR2 last night - first try! It's holding air this morning, so.. success! It went pretty smoothly overall, but to make it easy, it really has to be a 3-part process.
1. install tire with an inner tube
2. do a ride with the tube
3. (leave at least 24 hours, but more is better I'd say) set up tubeless.

I re-taped the rim as the tape was getting mangy and nicked a few times from various tire installs. Had Peaty's tape in there (was all I could find at the time in the proper width). replaced with Stans. it's clearly better. Thoroughly cleaned the valve stem of all Stans gunk and used a new core. Let that sit a few days with the tube, and went for an easy ride. Let it sit a few more days. I set it up tubeless last night, including with the old insert. Using a 5 gallon bucket really helps as you can lay it flat and keep it in place with your knees as you work your way around the bead... as does soaking the bead with soapy water.

I think every time I successfully install a DD tire with an insert, I'm amazed when it goes smoothly... but maybe it's not news to anyone else anymore. I just have to remember, and stick, to the process!

 

[sethimus]

didn't want to jinx it by posting last night... but I finished the set up of my new DD DHR2 last night - first try! It's holding air this morning, so.. success! It went pretty smoothly overall, but to make it easy, it really has to be a 3-part process.
1. install tire with an inner tube
2. do a ride with the tube
3. (leave at least 24 hours, but more is better I'd say) set up tubeless.

I re-taped the rim as the tape was getting mangy and nicked a few times from various tire installs. Had Peaty's tape in there (was all I could find at the time in the proper width). replaced with Stans. it's clearly better. Thoroughly cleaned the valve stem of all Stans gunk and used a new core. Let that sit a few days with the tube, and went for an easy ride. Let it sit a few more days. I set it up tubeless last night, including with the old insert. Using a 5 gallon bucket really helps as you can lay it flat and keep it in place with your knees as you work your way around the bead... as does soaking the bead with soapy water.

I think every time I successfully install a DD tire with an insert, I'm amazed when it goes smoothly... but maybe it's not news to anyone else anymore. I just have to remember, and stick, to the process!

 

[sethimus]

idk, i take out the conti dh from the packaging, put it on dry with the insert, remove the valve core, fill in 125ml of milkit, valve core back in and call it a day...

 

[boostindoubles]

I ordered me a(nother) set of Hadley hubs yesterday!!

Boost.
Singlespeed.
32 spoke.

Yes!

 

[bullcrew]

didn't want to jinx it by posting last night... but I finished the set up of my new DD DHR2 last night - first try! It's holding air this morning, so.. success! It went pretty smoothly overall, but to make it easy, it really has to be a 3-part process.
1. install tire with an inner tube
2. do a ride with the tube
3. (leave at least 24 hours, but more is better I'd say) set up tubeless.

I re-taped the rim as the tape was getting mangy and nicked a few times from various tire installs. Had Peaty's tape in there (was all I could find at the time in the proper width). replaced with Stans. it's clearly better. Thoroughly cleaned the valve stem of all Stans gunk and used a new core. Let that sit a few days with the tube, and went for an easy ride. Let it sit a few more days. I set it up tubeless last night, including with the old insert. Using a 5 gallon bucket really helps as you can lay it flat and keep it in place with your knees as you work your way around the bead... as does soaking the bead with soapy water.

I think every time I successfully install a DD tire with an insert, I'm amazed when it goes smoothly... but maybe it's not news to anyone else anymore. I just have to remember, and stick, to the process!

I do them on the ground now,..

Clean tape rim, put valve in, one side of tire , out stand in the. Other side...

Open valve spray sides of tire bead (both sides ) with spray bottle mixed with a few drops of baby shampoo..

Stand tire up and go for it, if it is blowing by pat center section down around tire to replace bead or push tire towards ground and dribble it lightly like a basketball..


When beads seat and pop, set it to 35psi and spin it leaned at angles both sides to distribute stans on bead edges..

1- if it's leaking from spoke holes you have compromised the tape
(Retape)
2- if it's leaking from valve your rubber seal is compromosed
(Retighten)
3-'if it's leaking around head seals not set.
(Add some more air, sprin it lay it almost sideways to allow sealant to cover bead internally)
4- if it just won't work, tin snips cut tire off and grab a hammer. (Work out your frustrations through dominance of asshole tire)

 

[HardtailHack]

I re-taped the rim as the tape was getting mangy and nicked a few times from various tire installs. Had Peaty's tape in there (was all I could find at the time in the proper width). replaced with Stans. it's clearly better.

Jesus, how crap is Peaty's tape if Stan's is better?

I'm still pretty rubbish at putting tire inserts in but like sethimus I go in dry.
But I use a cable tie over the tire/rim at the last step so I'm not chasing/swearing at the bead as it pops back out.

And I think I'm going to stick with Pirelli over Maxxis and conti.

Edit- I have been wanting to try that Milkit sealant for a while. I'm still getting through my bottle of Tune sealant, had a look in a tire I installed 8 months ago and the sealant was still liquid.
Stan's no doubt seals better but it dries way too quickly for a lazy person like me.
I'm amazed Stan's seems to be so popular, it's all shit in my opinion.

 

[slyfink]

My issue with "going in dry" is that it often nicks the tape. The other issue I might have is my rim. The Spank Oobah profile is a bitch to get tires on. the centre channel isn't deep enough. but it's been solid enough for the past three years that I'm willing to put up with the ringamarole when changing tires.

In the end, this process is pretty easy. it's just spread out over time. and takes long to type out!

 

[Jm_]

Yeah, the spank guy that designed that should be spanked in the face.

 

[sethimus]

Edit- I have been wanting to try that Milkit sealant for a while. I'm still getting through my bottle of Tune sealant, had a look in a tire I installed 8 months ago and the sealant was still liquid.
Stan's no doubt seals better but it dries way too quickly for a lazy person like me.
I'm amazed Stan's seems to be so popular, it's all shit in my opinion.

i suspect milkit is just labeled oro magic milk. had a bottle of that to try a few years ago and it looked and smelled quit similar

 

[FlipSide]

My foot injury is getting better. I just got the confirmation from the orthopedist that the bone is now back in one piece. Still not completely healed, but it should hold if I don't do anything stupid in the next few weeks. I now have ~6 weeks of physio to do and I should be good.

With a thrilling news like that, I couldn't resist and I bought a fat bike (the current deals on the RM Blizzard were too good to pass up). I wanted a C50, but I could not find one in my area, so I pulled the trigger on a C30 instead. The C30 will be great anyway. It just needs a dropper post.

It should be excellent to get back into shape after 4 months of couch-potatoing. The start of the fat bike season will coincide with the moment I will be able to resume doing sporting activities.

 

[6thElement]

My foot injury is getting better. I just got the confirmation from the orthopedist that the bone is now back in one piece. Still not completely healed, but it should hold if I don't do anything stupid in the next few weeks. I now have ~6 weeks of physio to do and I should be good.

With a thrilling news like that, I couldn't resist and I bought a fat bike (the current deals on the RM Blizzard were too good to pass up). I wanted a C50, but I could not find one in my area, so I pulled the trigger on a C30 instead. The C30 will be great anyway. It just needs a dropper post.

It should be excellent to get back into shape after 4 months of couch-potatoing. The start of the fat bike season will coincide with the moment I will be able to resume doing sporting activities.

Definitely a derper post, so much easier getting on/off in the snow notwithstanding the descending benefits.

edit: if the wheels can tubeless on that model it's worth it and get ready to start using pressures like 3F/6R before letting air out when riding.

 

[Jozz]

My foot injury is getting better. I just got the confirmation from the orthopedist that the bone is now back in one piece. Still not completely healed, but it should hold if I don't do anything stupid in the next few weeks. I now have ~6 weeks of physio to do and I should be good.

With a thrilling news like that, I couldn't resist and I bought a fat bike (the current deals on the RM Blizzard were too good to pass up). I wanted a C50, but I could not find one in my area, so I pulled the trigger on a C30 instead. The C30 will be great anyway. It just needs a dropper post.

It should be excellent to get back into shape after 4 months of couch-potatoing. The start of the fat bike season will coincide with the moment I will be able to resume doing sporting activities.

I was almost tempted to ditch my RSD for a C50. It was $3k even at Quilicot.

 

[canadmos]

I was almost tempted to ditch my RSD for a C50. It was $3k even at Quilicot.

Nothing will ever beat the Costco Kirkland Red Rockets some of us grabbed last year for $6 something