[MtnBikerChk]

thoughts?

I have a cousin who is a carpenter and can help but he lives in VT so I'd only use him for emergencies (and he said I can borrow all the tools I'd need). He kinda gave me the run down and I looked at Lowes.com.

Thoughts? Pitfalls to avoid?

 

[vamkie]

ceramic tile?

 

[Polandspring88]

Get some good knee pads. You will be on your knees A LOT.

 

[TreeSaw]

Damn girl! You are quite the fixer-upper! We've been talking about ripping up the carpeting in two rooms and putting in hardwood flooring perhaps this summer, but we need to finish the bar in the basement first

I would second the use of knee pads (recommended by my brother) and do a dry run first to make sure all the tiles are correct (especially if you're going for a pattern).

 

[N8 v2.0]

Although it looks great, lay tile in a diamond pattern is not for the novice since a lot of cutting a required.


The most importaint thing about ceramic tile selection is the bigger the tile (within reason) the better no matter how small the room. 18_in tiles look awesome in a small space.

 

[N8 v2.0]

 

[Crashby]

Make sure your underlayment is done correctly... make sure you dont have any spots in the floor that are "flexy"...

awesome link for a tutorial:
http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_index.asp?page_id=35720307

 

[Brian HCM#1]

We did a 18" x 18" Travertine

 

[Mike B.]

I'm no tile expert but I've done several tiling jobs - floors, showers, etc. I could go on and on but it's best to talk with the experts at the tiling equivalent to Ridemonkey

Tilemonkey

They'll tell you to calculate the deflection of your floor before getting picking the material, etc so it's time to go to the basement to do some measuring. If you don't know exactly what is under your linoleum, tear a corner back and take a peak.

I actually really enjoy laying tile, just did a bathroom and will be doing the other bathroom and kitchen in the near future.

Oh yeah, with few exceptions don't listen to the people at Lowes or Home Depot. They'll try to sell you mastic instead of thinset and other such horrible advice.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

I'm no tile expert but I've done several tiling jobs - floors, showers, etc. I could go on and on but it's best to talk with the experts at the tiling equivalent to Ridemonkey

Tilemonkey

They'll tell you to calculate the deflection of your floor before getting picking the material, etc so it's time to go to the basement to do some measuring. If you don't know exactly what is under your linoleum, tear a corner back and take a peak.

I actually really enjoy laying tile, just did a bathroom and will be doing the other bathroom and kitchen in the near future.

Oh yeah, with few exceptions don't listen to the people at Lowes or Home Depot. They'll try to sell you mastic instead of thinset and other such horrible advice.

The ONLY time I'll use mastic is for a back splash, actually mastic worked real well gluing tiles directly to wood. I had 3 steps in my old house and it held up fine. I wouldn't do it anywhere else though.

 

[I Are Baboon]

Our current linoleum floor (being kept warm by the greyhound here) is hideous. It'll look great once MBC finishes this project!

 

[fluff]

Do PETA know about that fleece?

 

[I Are Baboon]

Do PETA know about that fleece?

PETA should be more concerned about the bullysticks we feed her.

 

[DRB]

Don't use light grout or you will regret it. Our first house had white tile with white grout in the kitchen and it looked like sh!t no matter how well we cleaned. I ended up covering it with pergo and it was a thousand times better.

Getting the base right is the key to it looking good. If that's messed up the tile will look like crap.

I know that Home Depot does a class on laying tile a couple of times a week here. It might be worth a couple of hours of time if your lowes or home depot have the samething.

 

[narlus]

Our current linoleum floor (being kept warm by the greyhound here) is hideous.

i bet the bees dig it.

 

[MtnBikerChk]

If you don't know exactly what is under your linoleum, tear a corner back and take a peak.

I actually really enjoy laying tile, just did a bathroom and will be doing the other bathroom and kitchen in the near future.

That's what I'm doing tonight. I'll be happy to post pics if anyone is interested!

edited to add: this could suck - I can't be on my knees for more then 2 minutes without serious pain.

 

[justsomeguy]

A word of caution about removing the linoleum. If it's old ('70s) it quite possibly contains asbestos and the adhesive can as well.

Ditto on the big tile recommendation. Proper floor prep will make the fun part (actually laying the tile) much easier.

 

[brungeman]

lots of these posts I agree with, and have some great info.

the best thing I can tell you is no matter who makes the tile, tiles between boxes (even from the same batch differ in color and pattern) make sure you work from multiple boxes at a time, which will vary that different look and give a more random look. If not you will have a distinct line where you changed boxes of tiles.

also I will third or fourth the comment about the knee pads. get good foam rubber ones. it will save you tons of money in the cost of Motrin!:looney:

N8's example of diamond pattern is beautiful, and I would suggest renting a tile saw to do that pattern. A tile wetsaw is the best thing to use for your complicated cuts, (I take it you aren't taking out cabinets etc.) so you will have complicated cuts. A dry cutter that scores the tile first then snaps it is great and quick for straight cuts but you cant do complicated cuts with it. If you only have a few complicated cuts to make you may be able to mark the tile and take it with you to HD or Lowes, and usually they have a tile saw there to make cuts for you.

Good luck. It isn't hard, but it is a pain in the knees!

 

[brungeman]

That's what I'm doing tonight. I'll be happy to post pics if anyone is interested!

edited to add: this could suck - I can't be on my knees for more then 2 minutes without serious pain.

The best way I have found to take up linoleum is to use a flat coal type shovel. They make special tools for ripping up the flooring, but its stupid to spend the money on it when the shovel is something that you can use for bunches of different projects (including trail building)

I will stay away from any comments about you being on your knees

 

[MtnBikerChk]

A word of caution about removing the linoleum. If it's old ('70s) it quite possibly contains asbestos and the adhesive can as well.

I read this - that makes me a little nervous.

 

[narlus]

asbestos takes a while to cause cancer; you'll be fine.

 

[MtnBikerChk]

asbestos takes a while to cause cancer; you'll be fine.

 

[splat]

A Heat Gun , and a Scrapper and a Lot of time!! and if the heat gun is setting it on fire every now and then then its not asbestos. And the stuff that contained asbestos tended to be the More expensive stuff.

 

[N8 v2.0]

I read this - that makes me a little nervous.

I read this - that makes me a little nervous.

I asked our Asbestos Manager here at the office about your floor and this is what he says to do:

1. Pull back a corner of the linoleum, if you see that it has a WHITE PAPER backing, then it is asbestos.

2. If it is asbestos you, as a home owner can remove it yourself without any special disposal requirements (check your area). However, if you PAY someone to remove it then you will need all the permits, disposal fees, ect.

3. If you want to remove it, it is no big deal as long as you follow this proceedure:

a. Pull the linoleum up in 4'x4' sections.
b. Wet/soak the floor with a mixture of water and detergent (this keeps the asbestos from becoming friable).
c. Scrape off the backing and adhesive with a scraper and bag it in plastic bags. Check with your local builing code enforcement official for proper disposal. Here in La. a homeowner and throw it out in the regular trash but verify for your area.
d. Install new flooring.​

 

[splat]

I won't discuss what happened to the asbestos on my Pipes at my old house

 

[MtnBikerChk]

I asked our Asbestos Manager here at the office about your floor and this is what he says to do:

1. Pull back a corner of the linoleum, if you see that it has a WHITE PAPER backing, then it is asbestos.

2. If it is asbestos you, as a home owner can remove it yourself without any special disposal requirements (check your area). However, if you PAY someone to remove it then you will need all the permits, disposal fees, ect.

3. If you want to remove it, it is no big deal as long as you follow this proceedure:

a. Pull the linoleum up in 4'x4' sections.
b. Wet/soak the floor with a mixture of water and detergent (this keeps the asbestos from becoming friable).
c. Scrape off the backing and adhesive with a scraper and bag it in plastic bags. Check with your local builing code enforcement official for proper disposal. Here in La. a homeowner and throw it out in the regular trash but verify for your area.
d. Install new flooring.​

WOW - thank you so much!

 

[MtnBikerChk]

I asked our Asbestos Manager here at the office about your floor and this is what he says to do:

1. Pull back a corner of the linoleum, if you see that it has a WHITE PAPER backing, then it is asbestos.

ok, well I wouldn't call it a paper backing - it's more of a cardboard type material

&

 

[N8 v2.0]

ok, well I wouldn't call it a paper backing - it's more of a cardboard type material

&

Tell you what, I will show your photos to the Asbestos Manager in the morning and get an expert opinion. Try to get a couple more photos that really show what the backing looks like.

-N8

 

[jdcamb]

They'll tell you to calculate the deflection of your floor before getting picking the material, etc so it's time to go to the basement to do some measuring.

Awesome advice!

I actually really enjoy laying tile

So do I. I kind of think I have knack for it. Kind of similar to masonary.

 

[Qman]

A word of caution about removing the linoleum. If it's old ('70s) it quite possibly contains asbestos and the adhesive can as well.

I was going to caution on the same thing. Your photos look a lot like the back of our vinyl flooring from 1973. I was told there isn't any sure way to tell other than taking a sample to a lab. I did and the vinyl is 89% asbestos. ( I guess that means it was high quality back then according to the lab tech.) The glue was something like 33% asbestos.
Check with your city's website on disposal. Seattle has a big pain in the ass process and when you finally show up at the right place, all the double bags are busted open by the corners of plywood etc according to my neighbor.
We haven't tackled it yet since we might add on instead of just remodel the kitchen but the abatement quote we got wasn't too bad.

 

[MtnBikerChk]

great.

so can anyone recommend a reputable lab? preferably one I can just mail a sample?

 

[Mike B.]

great.

so can anyone recommend a reputable lab? preferably one I can just mail a sample?

You can try calling some in your area, most will do a mailed sample if they fax you a chain of custody that you complete and mail back. They will usually have you put the sample in a zip lock. I think we used to do 6x6" for asbestos flooring, 1 ounce for asbestos insulation or adhesive, and 6 - 1" peels for lead paint.

Thomasnet listing for CT: http://www.thomasnet.com/nsearch.html?cov=CT&which=prod&what=Testing+Services:+Asbestos+Contamination&navsec=search&heading=84842301

I used to work in the train business where we overhauled cars (subway & commuter) for the transit authorities and for the most part, they all had asbestos and/or lead throughout. We always took samples even when the transit authority said the cars were clean and we almost always found asbestos or lead. Abatement isn't a big deal but it can kill a project schedule.

 

[N8 v2.0]

great.

so can anyone recommend a reputable lab? preferably one I can just mail a sample?

Don't bother unless you really want to because my Asbestos Manager says it is defiantly asbestos. He also says it is not a big deal to remove safely as long as you follow his instructions I posted earlier.

He says the regulation states that as long as the structure is designed to house less than 4 families, the occupant can remove the asbestos themselves without any special permits ect. However, if you PAY someone to remove it, then that person must be a licensed asbestos removal contractor and all federal & state laws/regulations must be followed. This usually costs some major $'s.

 

[MtnBikerChk]

Don't bother unless you really want to because my Asbestos Manager says it is defiantly asbestos. He also says it is not a big deal to remove safely as long as you follow his instructions I posted earlier.

He says the regulation states that as long as the structure is designed to house less than 4 families, the occupant can remove the asbestos themselves without any special permits ect. However, if you PAY someone to remove it, then that person must be a licensed asbestos removal contractor and all federal & state laws/regulations must be followed. This usually costs some major $'s.

I'd have to call for prior approval

http://www.themdc.com/whatishazwaste.htm (hazardous waste removal for our town)


CT Department of public health website

If the material is damaged or becomes damaged, the DPH recommends that a licensed asbestos contractor be contacted to abate the material. Abatement may involve repair, enclosure, encapsulation or removal of the material. Asbestos abatement involving more than three (3) linear feet or more than three (3) square feet of asbestos-containing material must be performed by a licensed asbestos abatement contractor. Due to the potential health effects related to asbestos exposure, the DPH recommends that asbestos abatement involving amounts up to three (3) linear feet or up to three (3) square feet of asbestos-containing material be performed by individuals with proper training and experience.

 

[MMcG]

Our current linoleum floor (being kept warm by the greyhound here) is hideous. It'll look great once MBC finishes this project!

Hi Jewell!!

 

[I Are Baboon]

Hi Jewell!!

Jewell says, "Less talk, more cookies."


Oh, I think we should leave the old floor the way it is and pretend nothing ever happened.

 

[narlus]

just paint it.

 

[I Are Baboon]

With lead paint, I presume? Might as well!

 

[narlus]

i heard those chips are tasty.

 

[splat]

I'd have to call for prior approval

http://www.themdc.com/whatishazwaste.htm (hazardous waste removal for our town)


CT Department of public health website

If the material is damaged or becomes damaged, the DPH recommends that a licensed asbestos contractor be contacted to abate the material. Abatement may involve repair, enclosure, encapsulation or removal of the material. Asbestos abatement involving more than three (3) linear feet or more than three (3) square feet of asbestos-containing material must be performed by a licensed asbestos abatement contractor. Due to the potential health effects related to asbestos exposure, the DPH recommends that asbestos abatement involving amounts up to three (3) linear feet or up to three (3) square feet of asbestos-containing material be performed by individuals with proper training and experience.

yeah Up here in the Northeast they you just mention the word and they go ga ga .
But ..... If it just happen to Some how get off the Floor , and masiclly disapapeard ( trash man! ) the state would never know about it ! I Know Many many people who have had Asbestos Insulation on Pipes just disappear magiclly.