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escapeartist

escapeartist

Turbo Monkey
Mar 21, 2004
1,759
0
W-S. NC
I need something to diffuse a really hot shop light. What can I use that wont instantly combust? I imagine damn near everything will light after a while, but if I can get 10 minutes before ignition I'll be good. I need something not too thick, just enough to soften it up a little. Any ideas?
 
biggins

biggins

Rump Junkie
May 18, 2003
7,173
9
use wax paper and a wooden frame...place it in front of the light but not against it where air can still circulate behind it...itll work fine...
 
geargrrl

geargrrl

Turbo Monkey
May 2, 2002
2,379
1
pnw -dry side
I checked the properties of wool in my old Textile Science text before I made that other post - wool starts to decompose at temps above 130, and greater than 300 will char.
 
escapeartist

escapeartist

Turbo Monkey
Mar 21, 2004
1,759
0
W-S. NC
biggins said:
use wax paper and a wooden frame...place it in front of the light but not against it where air can still circulate behind it...itll work fine...
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Thats a good idea. Theoretically it would start to melt before lighting too right? Should give me a nice diffusion.
 
Transcend

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
Work lights aren't temperature balanced. You may end up with some pretty funky results if you don't use all the exact same balast and bulbs on all of your lights. This includes any ambient room lights (don't mix in fluros, halogen's etc if you are using incandescent work lights).

good luck.
 
BigMike

BigMike

BrokenbikeMike
Jul 29, 2003
8,931
0
Montgomery county MD
Um...... They make somthing for this very specific purpose! Its called lighting gel. It can be had at any theatrical lighting supplier, and even some camera stores ($$$$)

My company of choice is Apollo, but there is also Rosco, Gam, and Lee.

as for buying it, if you can't find it locally, you can get it from Barbizon, Stagespot, or plenty of other online retailers.

it should be no more than $8 a sheet, and I would suggest some gaffers tape, NOT duct tape to attach it to your light if you do not have gel holders in the light.

I guess my college degree in stage lighting design finally paid off! and everyone says working in a bike shop is wasting my talent :bonk:
 
NapalmCheese

NapalmCheese

Monkey
May 16, 2006
261
0
Los Gatos
geargrrl said:
I checked the properties of wool in my old Textile Science text before I made that other post - wool starts to decompose at temps above 130, and greater than 300 will char.
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The fact that not only do you have a Textile Science book but that you checked it before posting really kinda turns me on. :brows:
 
Ciaran

Ciaran

Fear my banana
Apr 5, 2004
9,841
19
So Cal
how bright is the light? Maybe turn it round and bounce the light off a white wall?

Maybe rent some real lights for your needs.
 
Ciaran

Ciaran

Fear my banana
Apr 5, 2004
9,841
19
So Cal
geargrrl said:
Interesting... I googled that, and whaddya know.
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/mar99/921131883.Ch.r.html

You'd think they'd mention that in a textile science text ( duh) but it's not. I wonder if it would be covered in new editions, heh, mine is 1981 (tells you how long ago I went to college!)
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They don't mention it in Textile Science class because it doesn't put put off much cyanide in a ventilated area. IIRC (and I could be wrong, someone let me know if I am) the cycnide oxidizes pretty quickly. Big problems arise when you have a bunch of wool burning without much ventilation, such as in a warehouse. I believe this is why firefighters are much more aware of it. They are more likely than the average person to encounter a situation where deadly levels of the gas are present due to burning wool. I think it's the lanolin in the wool that does it.

Doing a burn test is not going to release enough cyanide to hurt you. Would I use wool as a lighting diffuser? Hell no... any flamable cloth being used as a high heat light lighting diffuser is dangerous. Personally I would be more worried about burning down the place than the toxic gasses being released. Though that would concern me.

Also, silk and certain synthetics give off cyanide as well. Cherry and apricot pits too, I think.

I had a Textiles Science class too... many many moons ago. (1987, I believe) Where did you take your class? Mine was at FIDM, Los Angeles.

Edit: just read your link. Pretty cool find.
 
Ciaran

Ciaran

Fear my banana
Apr 5, 2004
9,841
19
So Cal
BigMike said:
oh yeah, did I mention, LIGHTING GEL?!
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Listen to this man!

Also: Nomex is NOT fire proof!!! It is fire RESISTANT. If you go out and purchase auto racing gear you will see that the number of layers of nomex equals the amount of time you have to get out of the car.

Repeat: Nomex is not firePROOF. Nomex is fire/heat RESISTANT.
 
geargrrl

geargrrl

Turbo Monkey
May 2, 2002
2,379
1
pnw -dry side
I had a Textiles Science class too... many many moons ago. (1987, I believe) Where did you take your class? Mine was at FIDM, Los Angeles.
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I pieced together all my apparel/ textile classes at three different colleges being an oil field camp follower... I think I took that one at Casper College, WY 1985
 
geargrrl

geargrrl

Turbo Monkey
May 2, 2002
2,379
1
pnw -dry side
Ciaran said:
Yes, but at 21 dollars per THIRD of a yard he would be better off buying lighting gels. Which is what he should be doing anyway.
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I just thought it was interesting to note, since it was being discussed. I have to keep track of where to get this stuff, I never know when a customer who doesn't care what things cost is going to want some...
 
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