OEM tyres
- Thread starter toodles
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Ha ha. Don't make me laugh. It's still perfectly safe if you have the capacity to actually read the terrain, the grip available using the equipment you have, and calibrate the information to ride it accordingly. I'd be far more worried about the wildlife than my tread durometer if I were you.
Yeah, which muppet would prioritise safety and traction on the most important part of a wheeled vehicle...
I'm absolutely loving Schwalbe's Addix-Purple, count me in the "riders these days who can't cope" group I guess.
I'm sure there's a mathematical formula that could be generated to model the relation of safety, traction, and speed as a function of fun. c'mon nerds, get to it!Ha ha. Don't make me laugh. It's still perfectly safe if you have the capacity to actually read the terrain, the grip available using the equipment you have, and calibrate the information to ride it accordingly. I'd be far more worried about the wildlife than my tread durometer if I were you.
Or you could, you know - ride it really quickly and not worry about your diamond hard 60A tyres causing your bike to throw shapes on every bad cambered rock or root surface down the trail.
Cmon mate - in what universe would anyone want to ride a shittier compound tyre. Go tell Hill, Hart, Gwin or any Moto GP rider that they're squids for insisting on sticky compound rubber. In your efforts to appear more hardcore than Chuck Norris you're taking the piss now.
Firstly. 60A is actually a softer than standard tyre compound. XC tyres were typically around 70/72 back in the 90s when michelin first introduced softer DH racing tyre compounds. Previously "DH" tyres were often just tougher casing slightly larger derivatives of a tyre manufacturers XC tyres.
(My whole point is that the ability to calibrate grip levels is what allows you not to worry. I actually enjoy the challenge/technicallity of riding a 100mm hardtail with 60As down steep technical low grip descents. More of a Norris McWhirter thing than a Chuck Norris thing.
since you bring up Hill. You know "that" Champery race run?
It's a prime example.
I ride 60a rear tires here/desert rocky places because they're appreciably faster. You can really tell riding behind and in front of people with squishy rear tires. And jagged rock? If you can't find traction on that, you've got other things to worry about.
rock hard but thimble sized.
Gotta keep that pebble out of the way of my non dh specific saddle.
70a is also a softer than standard compound, back in around 1817 you'd remember we were still using 1200a compounds. I prefer to learn the limits and really enjoy the sketch.
That's a fascinating anecdote. I'll keep that in mind next time I'm comparing a Tioga Farmer Joe and Hutchinson Coyote for my Foes Weasel.
Actually, yeah I will grant that. 60A tyres were pretty boss for park laps too. They definitely roll faster, on those highly trafficked well-worn lines in the park. Jagged rock isn't what I was talking about - I meant slick slate type rock surfaces. Jagged stuff is like cheat mode unless until it rolls under your tyres.
I usually ended up with a soft durometer tyre on the back regardless soley from the DHF F&R days when I'd rotate front to back and always put a new tyre on the front even though the soft duro tyres on the back get chewed up fast.
Eh, my original point was that there is a quantifiable grip difference between the 40A (RIP Slow Reezay)/42 duro and the MaxxPro 60 durometer tyres. Calling people squids for insisting on the 42A or comparable compound is just trolling or trying to look hardcore.
Just wondering what actually generates grip? I thought if it is good dirt (no rocks or roots) then the profile of the tire, knobs, working edges do generate grip. Softer compounds to a certain degree allow for more movement of the edges but too soft can be detrimental with knobs folding over. If roots, rocks or other harder surfaces are thrown in then the compound actually helps more with traction because it generates friction. No?
BTW: LOVED those Slow Reezay, unbelievable grip on wet roots.
Anybody know why Maxxis dropped the SR but kept the ST?
If memory serves, SR did not chunk the way ST does, seems the only use it has now is on the sides of the 3C's
I was thinking about trying some DHR2's F&R, but need 26" for the back and no DD available.
I like the Schwalbe SG casing, so figured the Maxxis DD would be great. Foiled again.
If memory serves, SR did not chunk the way ST does, seems the only use it has now is on the sides of the 3C's
I was thinking about trying some DHR2's F&R, but need 26" for the back and no DD available.
I like the Schwalbe SG casing, so figured the Maxxis DD would be great. Foiled again.
Of course there's a noticable difference in grip between durometers. FFS all I'm saying is it's perfectly possible to ride a mountainbike down a hill using tyres without the softest tyre compounds. You simply need to ride to the limit of grip you have available. Why is this so difficult for you to comprehend without crying "troll" ?
it's fuck all to do with trying to look hardcore, I'm not racing therefore don't need grippiest tyres to have fun riding my bike down a hill.
That's kind of like 2005 info.
The new ST tires are awesome.
Also, those 2.4 tires are plenty big on any rim 25mm or bigger. At least in my opinion. But I'm not a fan of the balloons.
Yeah but, in general, the more fasterest I go the more funer I have and good tires let me go faster soooo....
Good tires make riding more fun, just like good bikes.
Well, the last time I was on anything supper grippy from Maxxis, is about 2006/7, so in my mind I'm right on teh money
The 2.4's are the perfect size, but I don't like the 2.3 size, that is a bit too pinner, just as anything larger than a 2.35 MagicMary is too big and floaty feeling. I was really hoping they did the DD casing in 2.4.
So, 3C on the back and ST up front?
That's why I don't have sticky tires on my DJ bike. If you just ride hard pack and rail some berms it turns out you don't really need much traction. But if you want to ride steep rowdy trails fast you need maximum traction. It's pretty much the whole point of performance mtb tires.You are aware a 60a rolls faster?
Hey by the way. You know what rolls really fast?
You're living in the past. This is where its at for fast rolling. Sure its a bit sketchy but you've just got to ride to the limit of the grip available.
*edit* bwahahaha sniped by rockofullr
lol snaked youYou're living in the past. This is where its at for fast rolling. Sure its a bit sketchy but you've just got to ride to the limit of the grip available.
No. You honestly don't.
Maximum traction will give you an advantage and may well allow you to drop a second or two if racing though.
If it's a maxxterra. Like I said, I ride 60a rear tires a lot but but our dirt sucks and I aim for rocks for traction. Where you are is literally the exact opposite yeah?
Our dirt is awesome, and I ride a lot of 60a rear tires too.
The biggest place super sticky rubber makes a difference up here is on wet roots. A little rear end slip there isn't the end of the world.
This is what I do:
Go here for the Maxxis "catalog". Which actually gives you useful information in a grid result.
http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-302-122-minion-dhf
Then go to the "Shop Maxxis" page to see what they have in stock and/or the Item Number to google search to go shopping.
https://shop.maxxis.com/c/bicycle_downhill_minion-dhf?action_type=switch_product&selected_cat_keys=1031949.65877.1071113.0.0&selected_product=ae90874916e51c33f94bc9cbe5e8a42c&redirected_post=1
Using both sites is useful and imperative to get the exact tire you want. And kind of a pain in the ass. So many of the same DHF in so many different configurations will make you go blind trying to find the right tire on a web retailers site.
BTW, the "DUAL" compound is 60a. The unofficial rear tire of ridemonkey dh forum. At least I think so. I can no longer find on maxxis web site where they explain durometers to their compounds (dual, maxxgrip, st, etc.)
Go here for the Maxxis "catalog". Which actually gives you useful information in a grid result.
http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-302-122-minion-dhf
Then go to the "Shop Maxxis" page to see what they have in stock and/or the Item Number to google search to go shopping.
https://shop.maxxis.com/c/bicycle_downhill_minion-dhf?action_type=switch_product&selected_cat_keys=1031949.65877.1071113.0.0&selected_product=ae90874916e51c33f94bc9cbe5e8a42c&redirected_post=1
Using both sites is useful and imperative to get the exact tire you want. And kind of a pain in the ass. So many of the same DHF in so many different configurations will make you go blind trying to find the right tire on a web retailers site.
BTW, the "DUAL" compound is 60a. The unofficial rear tire of ridemonkey dh forum. At least I think so. I can no longer find on maxxis web site where they explain durometers to their compounds (dual, maxxgrip, st, etc.)
Not if I we're a pro who destroys even the gnarliest track with ease like you or Dany Hart but for us mere mortals having that extra traction when things get hairy can be the difference between blowing out a turn and railing a turn.
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The MAXXIS website is garbage. They don't list the durometers any more as far as I can tell.
http://www.maxxis.com/other-bicycle-information/bicycle-technology/compounds
Found this info elsewhere
https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/blog/maxxis-tyres-everything-you-need-to-know/
RIP Slow Reezay
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RIP Slow Reezay
Do you people™ even ride mountain bikes? They haven't made those things since like 2009.
That said, I did find an old 2.7 minion SR in my storage shed.
I'll start the bidding at 100 bucks.
lol I've never actually ridden the SR compound. But I hear it was so good it made even @Gary ride like one of these new school DH kids.
