[Wa-Aw]

Does anybody make them?

(Assuming) Most frame manufacturers have about 1" on the reach in between frame sizes and I'm about 5'7-8" with long legs and short arms so I find myself in between the recommended sizes for frames and it's difficult for me to compensate with stems as I hit the crowns with my knees (handling also gets weird when you start using stems you aren't used to). I'm guessing you can get about 1/2" offset on headsets to extend or shorten the toptube.

Would shortening a medium frame be structurally safer than lengthening a small? Is this small of a difference relevant? It's hard to tell without physically getting on a bike.


Another question about sizing: What else contributes to how large or small a bike feels. I used to have a small m9 and now have a medium session. They have the exact same reach (15.4"), but for some reason the trek feels quite a bit roomier.

Thanks

 

[Mo(n)arch]

Ask saruti. He made one for his DHR:

Edit:
I don't know why the pics aren't working. Click on them to see them.

 

[TWeerts]

what i did when purchasing my covert was sized up to a medium, then spec'd a short stem (55mm). I knew i wanted a short stem in the first place, but this enabled me to regain some length for climbing, and retain my short stem for descending.

anyone tried two of the same degree anglesets @ the top and bottom of the HS to shift the steerer? or am i playing internet engineer again?

 

[buildyourown]

You don't any room in a 1.5" headtube to do what you're thinking. You might get 1/8", but it would be expensive.

I've found wheelbase makes as much of a difference as anything on a DH bike. Back when everybody was drilling out the Turner DHR, a medium was perfect for riders 6'+. Same wheelbase as an undrilled large.
Where the seat sits also matters. I know you only touch to pedals and the bars 99% of the time, but if the seat is pushed foward, it cramps the cockpit. Some manufactures move the seat way forward to clear suspension thinking it doesn't matter. It's a band-aid for a poor design.
Unless you are locked into a single brand, keep shopping based on fit. It should be the +1 factor in any bike purchase. Who cares if the suspension works if you aren't comfortable.

 

[baca262]

after 2 years of reading random threads and some research of my own, wheelbase and reach make the most difference, i believe the wheelbase is felt a bit more than reach. long (wheelbase wise) bike feels long, it's harder to manual or do stoppies but it feels safer in the big gnar when you loose control of the weight transfer. i have to try more bikes but i think i prefer somewhere around 1130 - 1160mm wb, i'm almost exactly 5' 8", ape index 1.

 

[staike]

i have to try more bikes but i think i prefer somewhere around 1130 - 1160mm wb, i'm almost exactly 5' 8", ape index 1.

I'm the same height as you and I'm riding a medium 2010 Session with a 1180 mm wheelbase, where do you find 1130 mm wb bikes for your height? I'm super comfortable on my Session, just wondering what kinda modern frames that's so short.

 

[baca262]

i don't think any modern frames are this short due to <65 degree headangle, it was my friends older a-line with a super t up front that was this short.

 

[Wa-Aw]

You don't any room in a 1.5" headtube to do what you're thinking. You might get 1/8", but it would be expensive.

True. Did some numbers and came up with the maximum amount of offset you could have would be somewhere around 0.3". Not very much at all.

This wheelbase thing is consistent with what I felt session vs m9. For some reason the my session is about 1" longer than my m9 (strange since the m9 is much slacker).