[Johnny Wadd]

I am looking to get a 20", havent road one since I was a kid.
I wanted to get one to fool around with and also just to have,
beside we are building a DJ trail near my house, so I figured I would give a 20" a shot,

I am looking to spend no more then 700.
I was looking at the
Kink Bike Free Bird-
Fit Bike Series 2 complete-
S&M PBR complete -

Do you think I should look for one of the three above completes or do you recommend doing something else.

Also I can get Haros really cheap.

 

[RandomV]

If you can build one of those up for $700, I'd say go for it. All are quality pieces and will treat you well.

If'n you're going to look at those, I would also recommend the Terrible One Barcode, the S&M Stricker or a Metal Dagger. You've got plenty of options, though some are more affordable than others.

 

[Johnny Wadd]

Do you know of any bikes you can reccomend that have really good parts packages. At least this way I am getting a good start.
And later on I can always upgrade the frame if I want to.
Or do you think its good to get package with a good frame and upgrade the parts as they break or whatever?

I like the Barcode, and the Dagger, now there is just too many options.

help me out I wanna get started.

Thanks

 

[Grimey]

if you can get haros cheap, get the nice Nyquist bike

cheap and more than you need to get started

 

[Johnny Wadd]

Yeah I was looking at thw Nyquist, it probablly is the best soloution to get started,
How are the components?
Wheels ?
Cranks?
Brakes?

What size would you reccomend?
I am
170lbs
5'10"
Gonna ride some DJs and street.

 

[RandomV]

Eh. You're in the same boat as me height-wise. We're right between the 20.5 & 21" TT frame size recccomendations. I'd go with the 21" size, personally.

That bike (the Haro) would be an excellent choice, especially for starting out. The Premium Products components look to be pretty good, though they're relatively new to the market, so no one really knows how durable they're going to be.

Judging solely from the pictures, that stem scares me... It just looks weak. Stems are cheap, though.

And, in my opinion, you're always better off buying a complete with a 100% chromoly frame and fork that fit you well - Everything else is easy to replace as it wears out or breaks.

 

[SR]

There is no need to get a series 2, freebird, pbr, etc (I'm assuming you're talking about getting those from danscomp or something since they do those 'custom' complete deals..I don't really like how they build those but meh, to each his own)

If you're just starting out on bmx there is no need for top of the line everything. You'd be supprised how well mid range components will last for you. If you can get haros for cheap, there should be no discussion here. Get the haro, ride the piss out of it, upgrade as you need/desire.

 

[Mr Tiles]

I'm kinda in the same boat except I want to build up a bike from various parts. I've already got some 180 voxom cranks, gack bars, and s&m redneck stem. I looked at the FBM nite train and AOD. I will prolly go with one of those two choices for an all around sh!t kicker. The thing about size really bugged me cause I'm right at 6' tall. I was talking to a pretty good rider at the local skate park and he said that most guys he knows that are my height are running 20" tt and relatively short stays - contrary to what I've heard most others running a 21" tt to compensate for their height. He said the shorter bikes are more "flickable" and rotate quicker. I think I orginally went at it went comfort in mind like a mtb but now I'm strongly considering the shorter frame sizes...make sense?

 

[SR]

Originally posted by Mr Tiles
I'm kinda in the same boat except I want to build up a bike from various parts. I've already got some 180 voxom cranks, gack bars, and s&m redneck stem. I looked at the FBM nite train and AOD. I will prolly go with one of those two choices for an all around sh!t kicker. The thing about size really bugged me cause I'm right at 6' tall. I was talking to a pretty good rider at the local skate park and he said that most guys he knows that are my height are running 20" tt and relatively short stays - contrary to what I've heard most others running a 21" tt to compensate for their height. He said the shorter bikes are more "flickable" and rotate quicker. I think I orginally went at it went comfort in mind like a mtb but now I'm strongly considering the shorter frame sizes...make sense?

go to your LBS and pedal around different sized frames and see what youm like. I've notice people who come from an mtb background like longer toptubes because it is closer in size to their mtb. It's true a shorter TT/CS bike will feel more 'flickable' but it can also feel cramped if you're taller. Frame size is basically a purely personal opinion and shouldn't really be chosen based on someone else's suggestions. Get what feels good and will give you the desired feel for the type of riding you intend to do on it.

 

[pnj]

don't get a short frame if your new to bmx.

it will feel cramped and squirely as fvck making it harder to ride. once you get some skills on it, then you can decide if it's more 'flickable' to ride a shorter bike.

what it really comes down to is skill. get some skills, then you can make the decision if you want to go smaller. what if you don't even like to do 'flickable' tricks?

also, shorter chainstays make your rear pegs closer to your feet. if your taller you probably have larger feet. clipping your heels on the rear pegs sucks.

also, as mentioned above, mid range parts can last a damm long time. who knows what parts you will be hard on? I personally run a single wall rim in the front of my bike. most people would DESTROY a rim so weak but it works great for me.

 

[-dustin]

i have a 20.625" T1 i'll sell you for $600 plus the shipping (i'd pay for box and packing so it gets done correctly). T1s are one of the best frames out there, if not the best (i'm in Austin, maybe i'm a little biased...plus i think Taj and Joe are doing some good stuff down here). hell, i'll even throw in a 16t Shimano freewheel (never mounted) 'cause i'm tired of looking at the damn thing. nothing on the frame has been cut, grinded, etc. the scratches are from the first day i had it. leaned it up against the wall to take some pics and it fell against the garage door track.

if it's been ridden 10 times, i'd be surprised. i bought it, it rained like 2 weeks straight, rode it a little, then decided i wanted a big play bike. i really think you'd be hard pressed to find a T1 in this condition for the price. here's a link to some pics:

https://webspace.utexas.edu/barriedb/for sale/T1/

 

[hardtail_schmuk]

Originally posted by Mr Tiles
I'm kinda in the same boat except I want to build up a bike from various parts. I've already got some 180 voxom cranks, gack bars, and s&m redneck stem. I looked at the FBM nite train and AOD. I will prolly go with one of those two choices for an all around sh!t kicker. The thing about size really bugged me cause I'm right at 6' tall. I was talking to a pretty good rider at the local skate park and he said that most guys he knows that are my height are running 20" tt and relatively short stays - contrary to what I've heard most others running a 21" tt to compensate for their height. He said the shorter bikes are more "flickable" and rotate quicker. I think I orginally went at it went comfort in mind like a mtb but now I'm strongly considering the shorter frame sizes...make sense?

the AOD is a pig, and if you're into the nighttrain, I'd suggest the new fbm frame, the outsider. The geometry on that thing is surreal, it's like riding a frame crafted by the hands of god himself, it's the nicest thing I've ever ridden, much easier to ride than any t1 or standard.

 

[pnj]

Originally posted by hardtail_schmuk
the AOD is a pig, and if you're into the nighttrain, I'd suggest the new fbm frame, the outsider. The geometry on that thing is surreal, it's like riding a frame crafted by the hands of god himself, it's the nicest thing I've ever ridden, much easier to ride than any t1 or standard.

outsider =
71 seat tube
74 head tube
14 inch back end

sounds exactly like EVERY OTHER frame on the market right now.

 

[Echo]

Definitely pick up something like a Haro, DK, etc to get ya started. When I got back in to 20" I picked up a DK Cleveland for cheap, rode the piss out of it, trashed the rear hub, and used the experience to figure out exactly what I wanted in a 20" bike. Now I have a Freebird all decked out, but hey, that DK got me started

 

[hardtail_schmuk]

Originally posted by pnj
outsider =
71 seat tube
74 head tube
14 inch back end

sounds exactly like EVERY OTHER frame on the market right now.

Those three measurments are a very small piece of the puzzle, the thickness of the tubing, how the tubes are bent, the diameter of the tubs, the length of the headtube, the bb height, how close the end of the dropout slot is the the chainstay, the "cross tubes" (don't know what they're called) on the backend (where they are, how thick they are, whether or not they're tubes or bars). There are so many things that change the ride quality of the frame. Some of them are very subtle things, many of which probably weren't done intentionally. The outsider is the perfect combination all the elements of frame design, for me, 6' 1" 155lbs. I'm just saying it's a great frame.

And don't even get me started on how different parts affect the ride of a bike. Maybe my parts selection just works perfect for my body type, I dunno. I just think this guy should get a nice clean bike. Not some ugly a** pig of a K2 or trek or whatever. Seriously, who the f*** rides a haro, those things are goddamn tanks.

Would you rather ride a soulcraft, sycip, vanilla or some specialized, with the same components and geo. Seriously, get a nice frame, they're worth every penny.

And maybe that makes me a bike snob, but I could give a f***, I'd rather help some high quality rider built company buy a few sixers instead of trek or some other massive conglomerate make a few more pennys. Taiwan can go to hell, aluminum frames can go to hell, and carbon fiber can go f*** itself. Spend money on the s*** you love.

And that's my stoned ass rant for the night, now if ya don't mind I'm gonna go grind some ledges on my hand made in new york frame.

And I bet nobody even replies because RM is just one big cliquey bulls*** place, if someone popular on the board wrote this it'd get 100 replies. I just typed hella (yeah that's right norcal for life) stuff for nothing. Damn.

 

[Frankenschwinn]

I started out with a Redline racing bike and quickly purchased a Hoffman dirty one thirty (no Hoffman bashing please) So far I have only replaced the cranks (it came with one piece) and added a Haro Grind Drive. I have also removed the detangler (I can't do barspins yet anyway). The point is that I spent 300.00 to get into this bike and have added roughly 150.00 to get it where I wanted it It has been great. As someone else said, for a relativly low investment I have been able to build skills and find my riding style. I will buy something different, shorter top tube, shorter seat stays etc.

I have been rejuvenated by getting back into BMX. Good Luck

 

[pnj]

Originally posted by hardtail_schmuk
And I bet nobody even replies because RM is just one big cliquey bulls*** place, if someone popular on the board wrote this it'd get 100 replies. I just typed hella (yeah that's right norcal for life) stuff for nothing. Damn.

the most important part of any bike is the rider.

seriously guy, most bmx frames are pretty much the same. same tubes, same angles, same metal, same diameter, same thickness same ****ing every thing.

nothing against crandell and his crew. they make good products. so do many other companys. if someone is starting out, they can get a long ways on a low end bike.

in your post you say "don't even get me started on how parts effect..."
that is part of my point. YOU, the parts, AND the frame make up the whole. who's to say what anyone else will have on their bike? what works for you may not work for anyone else.....


*that's my stoned rant for the night...

 

[RandomV]

Okay, here's the thing. There's only a handful of angles, lengths and tube sizes that actually work for riding these days. Manufacturers being the smart cookies they are and wanting your hard earned cash for their product are all going to use those on their bikes. Now more than ever bikes are all the same.

Secondly, the new Haro bikes are much lighter than in the past. When was the last time you were on a new one?

Thirdly, I had forgotten to post this earlier... What about the Volume completes? 100% chromo frame & fork, good parts spec and priced right at $500...

 

[Echo]

Originally posted by RandomV
Thirdly, I had forgotten to post this earlier... What about the Volume completes? 100% chromo frame & fork, good parts spec and priced right at $500...

Word. I was actually about to snag a Volume Mexican, but then the Freebird stole my heart

Oh and hardtailshmuck, FBM kicks ass no doubt. Great bikes and great riders. I've seen Trey Hinton (sp?) has do some sh!t at the park that nobody else even thought was possible.

 

[Johnny Wadd]

What Volume do you reccomend and how are the parts...?
Thanks!

 

[RandomV]

My personal choice would be the Flatline, which is Kris Bennett's signature model. It has a 20.75" top tube, which should fit you well.

The parts are good, especially for that price point.

 

[Johnny Wadd]

Lets say I can get a 2003 Nyquist Pro for 400.
Is that a good starter bike?
How was the 2003?

 

[hardtail_schmuk]

Originally posted by pnj
the most important part of any bike is the rider.

seriously guy, most bmx frames are pretty much the same. same tubes, same angles, same metal, same diameter, same thickness same ****ing every thing.

nothing against crandell and his crew. they make good products. so do many other companys. if someone is starting out, they can get a long ways on a low end bike.

in your post you say "don't even get me started on how parts effect..."
that is part of my point. YOU, the parts, AND the frame make up the whole. who's to say what anyone else will have on their bike? what works for you may not work for anyone else.....


*that's my stoned rant for the night...

Ha! That was hardly a rant!

I agree that the rider is the most important part, and I'm not saying this guy whould get an fbm for his first frame. (although it did seem that way). I was merely suggesting the idea of a lightweight clean frame, something that is easier to ride than most of the frames that complete bikes come with. The volume flatline would be an excellent choice for a starter bike imo.