[M-1]

Hey Bikers!

I would be very thankful if I could get some suggestions
on parts for my downhill bike project, price on parts dosen't
really matter. This is what I have at the moment:

frame: intense m1 02, 5th element titanium spring
cranks: shimano saint 175 mm 42t

So, any suggestions before I start buying new comps?


Martin

 

[Zark]

Well I'd put 170mm cranks on there, the M1 has a low BB and you will clip a lot with 170mm. I had 175mm's on mine for 2 rides and it sucked. Find 170mm cranks, before you regret it.

A 7" fork is all you want on that bike. Super T or Dorado would do the trick nicely.

E13 SRS guide for sure
Brakes are a matter of personal pref. But I'm a Hayes guy.

 

[DIRTWRKS]

Well I'd put 170mm cranks on there, the M1 has a low BB and you will clip a lot with 170mm. I had 175mm's on mine for 2 rides and it sucked. Find 170mm cranks, before you regret it.

A 7" fork is all you want on that bike. Super T or Dorado would do the trick nicely.

E13 SRS guide for sure
Brakes are a matter of personal pref. But I'm a Hayes guy.

Actually I would even go with 165mm cranks with that frame, that's what my son is running on his along with a Dorado and it works real well.

 

[nicklin]

If price is no object, I say buy a 888. Then get a SRAM drivetrain, get the intense Mag30 wheels, and look through the "post your DH rig" thread.

Welcom to RM from an ex-M1 owner

 

[beaverbiker]

165 are only good if you have short legs. if you have long legs, 165's will be too short. i'm 6'3" and ride 170's for dh, mx, and 175's for xc, and 180's for road

 

[joelsman]

slider+ is lighter than the dorado. mavic 729 rims, sram drivetrain, maxxis tyres go tubeless

 

[retrofred]

170mm on the cranks, i ran a boxxerteam on my m1 and loved it. for brakes go for shimano xt's. that's what i had on the my m1 and now have on my trail bike. thompson seatpost, strong and light. as for wheels? stick with mavic.

 

[Intenseman]

This is Mine ...some ideas for you neaky:

 

[vitox]

This is Mine ...some ideas for you neaky:

spammeur!

 

[Spunger]

As a M1 owner I'll post in

I am a heavy guy (240lbs with gear), 6ft tall. I ride the same Med. frame with 5th element. I had a 550lbs one and it was a little too stiff. I think I have a 450 or 500lbs on it now and it's perfect. When my weight gets down I'll put the 400lbs Ti spring on

I'll agree with Zark as to crank arm length (170mm). Definately want a good guide (mrp or evil), decent headset, possibly deep insertation DH one. Forks are a prefrence of everyone. I'd run no less than a Super T/Boxxer style fork. If you're heavier on things, go Shiver/888R or something similar. Brakes are a prefrence, hayes require some mods to the rear adapter to make it fit. Also a strong wheelset is a good one too!. I run a heavy set (hence I am heavier than the norm) with Arrow DHX rims and Hope/Marzocchi hubs. My other bike has EX723 rims and I'd use them on the DH bike with no questions. I tried the bike with the QR rear axle but didn't like it so I switched to 12mm TA axle. Much stiffer. Since I weight more than most on a M1 I feel different things then a 160lbs person.

I calculated my bike's weight and it's in the mid 40lbs range (43.95lbs) to be exact I plan on running tubeless to shave some weight and hopefully get the benifits of it (that'll alone shave 2.5lbs of rotating mass off!) because I run DH tubes. So you can get it down to the lower 40's, even high 30's in weight range if you build it right. If I ran tubeless and went to a boxxer world cup I'd be down there. I'm not a racer so the parts I built it with are parts you can beat and abuse (arrow rims, shiver fork, evil guide etc...) so that was my main concern. TO be able to ride and not be fixing things every time.

Let us know what you end up doing!

 

[Polandspring88]

frame: Intense M-1
shock: 5th element with Ti spring
cranks: Race Face Northshore DH
BB: Race Face Signature DH
pedals: Azonic A frames
fork: Manitou Dorado
wheelset: Mavic Deemax
tires: Michelin comp 24 2.5" front
Michelin comp 16 2.5" rear
stem: Integrated
handlebar: Easton Monkeylite DH
brakes: Hope Mono 6ti
grips: ODI Rogue lock on
seatpost: Thomson
seat: Selle Italia Flite Ti
chainguide: MRP System 1
headset: Chris King

 

[jon-boy]

Chain guide... I'd maybe go for an E-13, my MRP gets mighty close to my rear tyre.
I'm runing Boxxers on mine and love the way it feels. I run the head angle fairly steep as I like the quick handling for riding here in BC.
Anyway I have a SRAM drivetrain and the lack of slap from the rear mech is bliss. I went for a mid-cup headset as the headtube would have to be milled out to accept one as it's not the same thickness the whole way through. BTW make sure you get the replacable mech hanger as I bent mine within a month or so. Pain in the ass.
I would 100% for sure get the bolt thru rear hub/axle. Makes the rear end nice and stiff. I'm around 200lbs and noticed the difference. 170 cranks or less too. I originally had 175mm (left over from my old bike) but these were soon swapped out.
Brakes, well I'm running hopes and love them, but that's personal preference.
Fork wise I have a 7" Boxxer WC. Works sweet and although I might look at the 8" version next year, I'm liking how the bike is right now.
What colour is the frame? If it's red, get mainly black components. Looks sick.

 

[jon-boy]

Oh here's the list:

Frame 01 M1 with Fox RC Large.
Fork 03 Boxxer WC.
Headset Race Face Diabolus
Stem RF Diabolus
Bars Easton EA70
Cranks RF Northshore
BB RF signature.
Seatpost Race Face Diabolus
Chainguide MRP System 3.
Wheelset: Rear Hadely to Mavic 321, Front WTC to Mavic 321.
Tyres, Intense 909 front and Maxxis Minnion or Highroller rear.
Brakes Hope M4's
Shifter SRAM X7
Rear Mech SRAM X7
Cassette SRAM
Chain Wipperman
Grips ODI lock-on Ruffians
Pedals DMR V12's or Shimano SPD's.

 

[jon-boy]

BTW does anyone know if I can fit a 9" eye to eye shock on my frame with a 3" stroke? I have a 8.75 by 2.75 right now and if I fit the longer shock will I get over 9" of travel? (Like the 2002?)