[Qman]

Not PC related but I'm trying to find a way to repair or replace two power supplies that are made by a company that no longer exists. I'm told that some electronics forums have schematics etc but I haven't found the right one yet.
The product was made by a company called Automated Security Technologies and it is called "Gaplock". I have two of them and so there are two power supplies. A power surge from a lightning storm blew some caps and transistors as well as vaporized some traces. I can probably replace the components and jumper the traces without problem but if the IC reset, I'm going to need to know how it's supposed to be programmed. I'd also prefer to just have some new boards made. Any tips on tracking down this info? Contact the chip maker? Try to decipher the company logo on the PCB?

 

[splat]

Good Luck with that one!!! Back when I worked in that industry we treaed our Board lay outs Like GOLD!! and most Other Companies did too.

 

[LordOpie]

Is this a fun project? Or are these powersupplies somehow proprietary and not other product will replace them?

I have no answers, just questions

 

[Qman]

I suppose it would be fun if I didn't have anything else to do but generally I consider fixing damage from a lighting storm/transformer explosion not fun. This one also blew out several neighbors' windows, one neighbor's fridge and garage door opener, a network card and socket #1 of their router.

Guessing this company either went out of biz or stopped production of this due to low demand. I assume it's proprietary based on the markings on the pcb but they were very helpful when I bought these units. The original power supplies were not compatible with my garage door opener (gdo) and these were still in dev. They shipped these to me for free when they were ready. This is an automatic deadbolt system for rollup garage doors. Great, simple design but this was a big surge that overloaded the transformer.
I suppose they've got a decent enough reason to guard the design but still, you'd think they'd have some sort of support if the the company was still in biz at all. I doubt anything else would work. Its 120vac in with two outputs: 24vdc 1amp & 120vac 15 amps. It is also current detecting so the 24vdc output is only active when the gdo is operating. It's a sweet system, when it works.

 

[urbaindk]

If you had enough of a ESD to pop caps and fry traces, I'm guessing the that the IC is fried too. Without seeing it I couldn't tell you if it's programable but I highly doubt it is. (What makes you think it is? Does it have a little clear window on the top? If so it's an EPROM and you're screwed. If not, look for any identifing marks and numbers and then do a google search for it. You may find a replacement.

The caps and the resistors, etc., should be marked or color coded and won't be too hard to find replacements for.

 

[Qman]

If you had enough of a ESD to pop caps and fry traces, I'm guessing the that the IC is fried too. Without seeing it I couldn't tell you if it's programable but I highly doubt it is. (What makes you think it is? Does it have a little clear window on the top? If so it's an EPROM and you're screwed. If not, look for any identifing marks and numbers and then do a google search for it. You may find a replacement.

The caps and the resistors, etc., should be marked or color coded and won't be too hard to find replacements for.

I didn't think it was programmable but that was just some smack a tech was saying yesterday without looking at it. No clear window on it.
Thanks for the tips. Definitely a "gotta see it to give advice" problem here.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

So it senses when the door is about to open and retracts the deadbolt?

 

[Qman]

So it senses when the door is about to open and retracts the deadbolt?

correct. detects the current draw by the gdo and fires the 24vdc to the units on both sides of the door.

Every once in a while the deadbolts will retract when I turn the shop lights on but until now, it has pretty much been flawless.
I thought it was a great product and found out after I bought them that they were on Oprah. I guess they just didn't sell enough to keep afloat.

New develpment is that the 800# on the installation instructions still works and gets me to an answering machine with the correct name of the company. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[spincrazy]

If you had enough of a ESD to pop caps and fry traces, I'm guessing the that the IC is fried too. Without seeing it I couldn't tell you if it's programable but I highly doubt it is. (What makes you think it is? Does it have a little clear window on the top? If so it's an EPROM and you're screwed. If not, look for any identifing marks and numbers and then do a google search for it. You may find a replacement.

The caps and the resistors, etc., should be marked or color coded and won't be too hard to find replacements for.

That is some sexy talk. Pretty much have no idea what you are saying, but it's nice to hear someone who knows what they are talking about.

What are you wearing?

 

[urbaindk]

What are you wearing?

Pants or these, you pick.

I worked as a materials analyst and did failure analysis for IBM for 3 years as an undergrad. I've seen lots of fried stuff.

 

[Kornphlake]

You could do the same thing with a couple of off the shelf power supplies and a relay I'd think. You'd have to figure out a way to wire the relay into the garage door opener so that it would close the contacts when the opener gets a signal to open then have the relay switch the power to the selenoid that operates the deadbolt. It seems like building a new unit that does the same thing would be easeir than repairing something that is built with obsolete parts.

BTW, that IC will most likely be impossible to find, although there may be a replacement with a lead free finish. Most semiconductor manufacturers obsoleted their entire lines of products about a year ago when RoHS became an issue for products sold in Europe.