[p3rider182]

Hey, i want to do trials/dj/urban/park on my speialzied p3. i CANT have rim brakes, that is what pinkbiek couldnt accept, i do not have brake tabs, on the frame, and my fork is a 05 fox talas, it cant take v brakes either, also my rims are Mavic 823 EX disc only... so not rim brakes.

What is the best locking up disc brake out theyre, to where i can do stuff almost like trials riders, stop QUICKY and keep it that way.

I was thinking Hayes Meg, or HFX9. everyone says Hayes suck, and i agree, because good brakes arnt soposed to lock up, but hat is what i want. So any suggestions on what brakes that will stop a wheel damn quick?

Chris, and please dont fail me Ride Monkey

 

[arboc!]

the pinkbike kids are idiots. yes, it is ideal to have a v in the rear, but a disc is ok. hayes are great brakes, just not the 9s, or the mechs.

 

[zahgurim]

Hope has a new trials brake out. It's similar to the mono mini, but it has larger pistons for more power and a more on/off feel for trialsing.

 

[rpk1988]

My Avid Mechanical BB7's lock up good with no fade. And they are the 6 inch rotors. Once they get broken in they are butter.

 

[p3rider182]

Wow... some actual advice... this is amazing... yeah i did have 6 inch avid BB7's with the speed dial 7 lever on it, but, it had a lil bit of fade, i wont lie, i loved them, but they didnt feel like that had that power that hydrolics have, but hands down the ebst machanical brakes by a long shot.

Thanks ill either grab the Hayes Mag, or the Hope Trials

 

[spam16v]

*Hope*


or get rim brakes!! haha sorry had to slip that in there.

 

[dvasis]

definatley hope is the way to go.... if your willing to spend some cash. also, good hayes are strong enough to lock your wheel on a moments notice, but they may not be what your looking for.

 

[RhinofromWA]

Any cheap mechanical brake and roofing tar on the rotor.....that should stop you.

Sorry I just love to see guys roofing tar their rims. Atleast they used to tar them.

 

[oldfart]

Ah.. guys. Brake fade happens when the fluid heats up, boils and the air bubbles squish causing the brake lever to go to the bar. Hence machanical brakes can't fade. I would also think it highly unlikely for a trials bike to develop enough heat to cause the brake to fade.

 

[ohio]

I would also think it highly unlikely for a trials bike to develop enough heat to cause the brake to fade.

Yup. Impossible. A brake will NEVER fade from trials style riding. There may be lots of other things wrong with it, from a bad bleed to contaminated rotors, but definitely not fade.

Get a pair of hayes mags. Cheap, easy to find. Haven't really changed in 7 years, and bombproof.

 

[p3rider182]

Hey, im getting a brand enw set of hayes megs from a friend of his SX, so 220 for a brand new set, not to bad

 

[Sandwich]

my vote is avid mechies...my buddy has them and they're more powerful than my hopes or hayes...but if you're getting the mags you should be OK, although I never liked my hayes.

 

[bikerpunk98199]

im w/ the avid mechs. they are stronger than the juices by alot you could even run a 6 rotor w/ um

 

[OGRipper]

Ah.. guys. Brake fade happens when the fluid heats up, boils and the air bubbles squish causing the brake lever to go to the bar. Hence machanical brakes can't fade. I would also think it highly unlikely for a trials bike to develop enough heat to cause the brake to fade.

Hmmmm, I agree with some of this, but fade can also come from hot pads and rotors too - pretty sure there is a friction loss at high temps for certain combos. I know people that complain of fade with their mechanicals on long descents, so I don't agree they "can't fade." Regardless, it shouldn't be a problem for trials.

 

[OGRipper]

im w/ the avid mechs. they are stronger than the juices by alot you could even run a 6 rotor w/ um

Avid mechanicals are the best mechanicals if you ask me, but to say they are stronger than the Juicies? By a lot? Now that's crazy talk.

Someone's Juicies need a bleed or new pads or something.

 

[Sandwich]

yeah...agree with above. Brake fade happens with high heat, not with bubbling fluid. Vbrakes can fade with extended use. Think about it...if they didn't, would we need disk brakes? Maybe for inclement weather...but why bother the other 90% of the time?

 

[Atomatik]

Wow... some actual advice... this is amazing... yeah i did have 6 inch avid BB7's with the speed dial 7 lever on it, but, it had a lil bit of fade, i wont lie, i loved them, but they didnt feel like that had that power that hydrolics have, but hands down the ebst machanical brakes by a long shot.

Thanks ill either grab the Hayes Mag, or the Hope Trials

did you even bother with dropmachine?

 

[oldfart]

yeah...agree with above. Brake fade happens with high heat, not with bubbling fluid. Vbrakes can fade with extended use. Think about it...if they didn't, would we need disk brakes? Maybe for inclement weather...but why bother the other 90% of the time?

Don't know about that. I do know when a hydraulic system get's hot enough, the fluid can boil and release gas bubbles which makes the brake lever, brake pedal or whatever go all the way to the bottom and leave you with no brakes. Let it cool and they come back.

I have experienced this type of fade with Hayes Hydraulic discs on a very long steep decent where the brakes had to be on the entire way. Had it on my Juicy 7's last month on the back brake of my VPFree. I have since upped the rotor to an 8 inch to match the front. I experienced it in an Argo, an 8 wheeled amphibious ATV which we were using to clean up after a XC race. Coming down a longish hill with two guys and a buch of crap, one brake started to fade much more than the other and since the brakes are the steering, we turned across the hill and nearly rolled.

I have never had that happen with rim brakes. More likely what people are calling fade is from their forearms fading from pulling hard. We used to get that with cantilever brakes when riding the shore. I don't mean this in a disparaging way, we used to get that and totally pumped burning forearms on trails like the BLT which is a rough powerline access road about 1000 metre vertical over maybe 5 kilometres ( 3000 feet over 3 miles?) In the day of Mafac cantilevers, it was 30 minutes or so to rattle down on a fully rigid.

You don't see riders in the TDF losing brake power on the big descents unless they are using carbon rims. And then it's more like the pads just get super grabby and guys can lock uop like Beloki did in '03. You can generate enough heat to start melting pads on rims like on a tandem or really big guys, but I wouldn't call that fade.

 

[OGRipper]

I think it's a little of both. In one of your examples, a 6" rotor will get hotter and so too will the pads, because there is about 20% less surface area than with an 8" rotor and you are trying to create the same amount of friction. So I don't see how that example proves that it's a fluid issue.

I get fade on my road bike with Campy record brakes and topolino aluminum rims. I don't know if it happens to the pros.

Also, I know fade can occur from high fluid temps, but I'm not sure it actually boils to create air bubbles - if so, wouldn't you need to bleed your brakes every time it happens? I really don't know the answer but what happens to the air bubbles when the fluid cools down?

Like I said, I think it's a little of both. The high heat creates fluid issues but it also creates friction issues.

 

[oldfart]

High heat will boil the fluid. The gas that forms the bubbles goes back into solution when the fluid cools. That is one of the reasons for DOT5.1 fluid. Higher boiling point.