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Please help me make my brake work...

t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
... worse.

I'm running XTR v-brakes and levers, stock pads. I come from BMX and am so used to brakes that modulate (not to mention barely work) that I'm struggling on my Fallguy to get them right. I just want them to be less grabby. Sure, I could dump lube on my rim or something stupid like that, but does anyone have a pad or real method that might work.

One thing, the pads have to be thinner (looking at them from the top) because spaced out to much they will hit my cranks (and yes, I am running as small a spacer on the inside as I can).

Its a weird question, but its frustrating trying to feather them and manualing.
 

Bikael Molton

goofy for life
Jun 9, 2003
4,088
1,235
El Lay
you could try getting crappier pads... maybe some shorter ones that are rated for "long life."

You could try setting the pads a little too low, so that only 1/2 of them engages with the rim and the other 1/2 is off the edge of the rim (toward the spokes).

I have Vs on my bike and they don't lock up well at all.
 

A Grove

Monkey
Nov 20, 2007
497
0
State College, PA
try running a set of BMX koolstops... To be honest, I find them to be a lott harder than that of the stock XTR pads.

A kid around these parts was running a set of road caliper pads on day... says he likes them alot.
 

t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
Ya, I tried running the half pad thing, other pads, cheap pads, I have a bunch of stuff sitting around. My lever is also set up really loose. I figured the kool stops would be better, but I actually have some replacement cartridges I can try out.

I thought about the road pads, but aren't they thicker (again, thinking from looking down on them)?
 

Willy Vanilly

Monkey
Jul 27, 2003
194
0
San Jose
Maybe you could try setting the brake pads with A LOT of toe-in? I'd imagine that since there would be less frictional surface they wouldn't grab as hard. Hope that helps. Or maybe if you can find some kind of pad compound that is meant for durability (and is therefore super hard rubber)? Good luck
 

sealclubber

Monkey
Nov 21, 2007
543
10
yeah alot of toe in will help with modulation. brakes will feel squishier due to the flexing needed to get full pad contact, but they will modulate better
 

t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
Number one, I had speed dial levers, the blade is way to wide, feels like poo to me. I love the XTR lever, best around as far as feel goes, and you can dial in your modulation. Either lever, Avid or Shimano still has to much power even in their lightest settings.

The toe in thing, ya, tried that as well. Just makes your brakes feel like crap, real mooshy.

I guess what I have been asking from the start is if anyone has a SPECIFIC brake pad that would be "long wear". That has been my thought from the start but I'm not privy to a brand or particular pad that would do it.

Thanks for the suggestions, but I have over a decade of shop experience and I've already tapped out on all the "tricks".
 

w00dy

In heaven there is no beer
Jun 18, 2004
3,417
52
that's why we drink it here
I'm reluctant to give riding advice to someone who is probably a better rider but here's my 2 cents; don't touch the brakes when you're manualling (sp?). I had to learn to do this when I moved to disc brakes (going over the bars is a good incentive) and my manuals have never been smoother. Keep a finger on there in case of emergency, but try not to touch it. Then you've got nice grabby brakes in case you want to do a stall or trials move.
 

t1maglio

Monkey
Oct 29, 2001
855
0
southern wisconsin
Hey Woody,

Ya, thats what I've had to do. I have always run my finger on the lever, and feathering the brake has always been my manualing style. After perfecting them pretty much for the last 10 years or so its hard to get used to brakes that grab. I'm not trying to brag, but manuals are one thing I do well, and when you have to change up what your used to its frustrating. Thanks for the advice, point well taken.