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- - poll front fork travel 7 or 8 - - - -

what is your fork travel?

  • i run a 7''ish fork

    Votes: 35 58.3%
  • i run around 8''

    Votes: 25 41.7%

  • Total voters
    60

ÆX

Turbo Monkey
Sep 8, 2001
4,920
18
NM
So in designing bikes, now that two big name forks are 8'',
what is the bikes geomatry set for 7 or 8? or 7.5 :blah:
i might get some help here from other builders.
 

Salami

Turbo Monkey
Jul 17, 2003
1,788
121
Waxhaw, NC
I am going to run a 03 Super T (22" axle to crown) on my Sunday at first but I would like to change to a 05 Boxxer Team or WC when money permits. There is always the possibility I will wind up with a 200mm 888 but I would use it with flat crowns. Any ways, axle to crown range would be between 22-22.5" depnding on which one I choose. I won't run anything taller.
 

dante

Unabomber
Feb 13, 2004
8,807
9
looking for classic NE singletrack
I'd say design for the future, which is 8". All boxxers are 8, 888 is 8, Fox 40 is 8", 66 is as TALL as 8" :blah: The only holdout is Dorado and they were *trying* to do 8" this year (and last year). Other than that, the only 7" forks are FR forks (Shiver, SuperT, Slider+, Kingpin, Breakout+, etc, although the Shiver is still technically a DH fork).

Hope this helps.
 

Jeremy R

<b>x</b>
Nov 15, 2001
9,703
1,067
behind you with a snap pop
Alex,
Since your bikes already have a 1.5 headtube, I would definitely design them around an 8 inch fork.
Last year I ran a 170 mm 888 with stock crowns, and a big fat 1.5 Headset that had a stack height of well over an inch (top and bottom).
And this year I am running a 200mm Works 888 with the Zoke flat crowns(which I just received :cool: ), and an internal headset on my 1.5 inch headtube. So basically my 8 inch fork is going to be lower than the 170 mm one that I ran last year. Combine that with all the new forks coming in at 8 inches, and it should work out well for ya.
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,763
1,285
NORCAL is the hizzle
Assuming you're talking about a DH race bike that will have at least 8" rear travel, I would say design around the AC dimension for the 8" boxxer and fox forks (around 22.5" or so (??)) but NOT the stock 8" 888, which I'm pretty sure is 23.5. If someone wants a 7" fork with your intended head tube angle, they can get a 7" 888 with stock crowns. If they insist on the 8" 888 they can get the lowrider crowns from go-ride, risse, or even 'zoke. IMO the stock 888 crowns are just too damn tall and I think frame designers should ignore it now that there are a bunch of other options out there.

But with your production numbers, can you build to your customer's specs?
 

ÆX

Turbo Monkey
Sep 8, 2001
4,920
18
NM
OGRipper said:
Assuming you're talking about a DH race bike that will have at least 8" rear travel, I would say design around the AC dimension for the 8" boxxer and fox forks (around 22.5" or so (??)) but NOT the stock 8" 888, which I'm pretty sure is 23.5. If someone wants a 7" fork with your intended head tube angle, they can get a 7" 888 with stock crowns. If they insist on the 8" 888 they can get the lowrider crowns from go-ride, risse, or even 'zoke. IMO the stock 888 crowns are just too damn tall and I think frame designers should ignore it now that there are a bunch of other options out there.

But with your production numbers, can you build to your customer's specs?
i am trying to get a stock bike the user can set to his desired custom specs

it takes me to long to do full custom. then it is still set.

new frame you can adj for whatever you are riding and whoever riders it through the life of the frame.
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,763
1,285
NORCAL is the hizzle
bcd said:
i am trying to get a stock bike the user can set to his desired custom specs

it takes me to long to do full custom. then it is still set.

new frame you can adj for whatever you are riding and whoever riders it through the life of the frame.
Um, what? Do you mean parts when you say "his desired custom specs"? I agree that it will be "set" but all I was asking is if you can allow the customer to make the call. But I think I understand you to mean that you can only have one mold or whatever.

Anyway, there is also the fact that you can raise most 7" forks in their crowns, whereas most people run their 8" forks as low as they go. If you build for 8" it's just more flexible all around.
 

dw

Wiffle Ball ninja
Sep 10, 2001
2,943
0
MV
Go with the 8" Alex

I had the luxury of spending back to back days on a 7" and 8" fork on my Sunday at Whistler last summer. (3 days per fork) I felt like the 8" for made me faster on every trail. A lot of the guys on the circuit said they felt the same way when I polled this summer.

Dave
 

davetrump

Turbo Monkey
Jul 29, 2003
1,270
0
i would love to see more companies use the 1.5" headtubes (like DW did on the Sundays). being able to run the headset internaly makes up for about half the increase in ride height attributed to running a longer fork. having this option lest the consumer chose whichever for they want without changing the head angle and the bottom bracket height too much. if you run a 7" go with a conventional headset, if you run 8" go with an internal headset... and since most forks allow for fine tuning the geometry through raising/lowering the legs in the crowns the rider should have no trouble finding the geometry that works for them.

if making a 1.5" headtube is not an option i would say go with designing around and 8" fork. it seems like everyone is selling one, and i doubt they will be going back down to 7" any time in the near future.
 

ChrisRobin

Turbo Monkey
Jan 30, 2002
3,411
212
Vancouver
lovebunny said:
for the dude that said shivers are 7. arent they 190mm and thats like almost 8? like 7.75 or something
You beat me to it...



I would run 8" and I will when I have the cash together...until then, 7" it is.
 

HRDTLBRO

Turbo Monkey
Feb 4, 2004
1,161
0
Apt. 421
Yep,
The shiver is 190mm, only 13mm off from 8". I like 7" front, but haven't had much time on 8". I believe my next fork will be a 170mm 888 with low-ride crowns, and the e.th1rt3en reducer cups. It should keep the front nice and low, while maintaining a 65-66 degree head angle, er...hopefully.