There's some sort of compound out there that the military uses to quickly create runways/landing strips that bonds with dirt to create a hard surface.
Anybody know the name of this stuff?
Anybody know the name of this stuff?
Polymer hardener for runways?
- Thread starter kidwoo
- Start date
I don't think that's it. What I'm looking for is an additive not it's own filler material. This is something you basically just create a solution with and pour over dirt.
Thanks for looking though...........
Thanks for looking though...........
J
JRB
Guest
Environmentally unfriendly jumps???
Yah CaCl basically acts similarly to other chloride salts like plain ole sodium chloride. If you've ever been to death valley or a similar salt flat drainage basin, you've seen how they retain moisture and create mud, even in a really arid environment. Sounds like some folks are using this for the same effect on dirt roads. Interesting though. Might keep our jumps moist.......DVNT said:
This stuff I'm looking for has a trade name that I can't remember......
No need for negativity brother.dfinn said:
Channel that energy into a productive mantra and feel the oneness.
I have always wondered if anybody uses Diamond Dry on dirt jumps.
Back when I played baseball, that is what we used to dry up the dirt in the infield. I don't have a clue what is in it though.
Back when I played baseball, that is what we used to dry up the dirt in the infield. I don't have a clue what is in it though.
Why not just use quick-crete like all of the moto tracks?
It cracks when the dirt swells from rain and/or settles over time.Transcend said:
already tried it.
I thought they did this with the blood of the enemy......
Already tried with the blood of 50 riders and lazy moto pricks.oly said:
No dice.
kidwoo said:
Ah, but you forgot to add the blood of some horse riders and also maybe some granola eating 29ers......
Ah cool, i figured it wasn't "permanent", but thought it'd be better than that.kidwoo said:
oly said:
HAHAHHAAA......oh the tears.............make it stop..........
.......a 29er within 10 miles of a dirt jump............AHAHAHAHAHAHAA
Got no problem with horsies around the jumps. Just on single track where I typically slay their owners and sell the beasts for glue..............actually.....glue...........may be on to something.
kitty litterJeremy R said:
J
JRB
Guest
Does this mean that gay N8's blood will work better???oly said:
Maybe this is it: http://www.polypavement.com/more_info.htm
ooh thanks wumpus
Neither of those were the trade name I've heard before but the dirt glue looks like a good contender.
Much appreciated.
Neither of those were the trade name I've heard before but the dirt glue looks like a good contender.
Much appreciated.
I've heard of BMX tracks using a "track hardener"
I have no idea what it was but apparantly it isn't very good for you bike and was very abrasive. You might ask somebody who maintains a BMX track
I have no idea what it was but apparantly it isn't very good for you bike and was very abrasive. You might ask somebody who maintains a BMX track
Ironically it was a guy rebuilding one of the bmx tracks here who's been asking me.buildyourown said:
We use stuff like that on the mine haul roads to suppress dust. A lot of sites do.
The best stuff I've used is lignosulfate based. Its a soil stabiliser and compaction agent. The best part is it doesn't wash out readily.
The water based polymers you get do set up a crust on the road but need to be worked in more thoroughly and then wet down fully to get the best out of them. The also only have a lisfpan of about three weeks in the road profile. They break down in UV light and can wash out easily.
Chloride salts only seal out the dust by creating a crust as well but the are very mobile in water.
A thought about all of these is that the crust they will set up can be quite jagged particularly on pothole edges. Like sharp enough to cut into earthmover tires.
Other stuff used on mine sites that would be interesting would be bitumen extract oils. Or even better Tekflex if you can get it commercially, it looks like snot but makes a tough membrane over the whole thing.
The best stuff I've used is lignosulfate based. Its a soil stabiliser and compaction agent. The best part is it doesn't wash out readily.
The water based polymers you get do set up a crust on the road but need to be worked in more thoroughly and then wet down fully to get the best out of them. The also only have a lisfpan of about three weeks in the road profile. They break down in UV light and can wash out easily.
Chloride salts only seal out the dust by creating a crust as well but the are very mobile in water.
A thought about all of these is that the crust they will set up can be quite jagged particularly on pothole edges. Like sharp enough to cut into earthmover tires.
Other stuff used on mine sites that would be interesting would be bitumen extract oils. Or even better Tekflex if you can get it commercially, it looks like snot but makes a tough membrane over the whole thing.
I've had great luck with plywood. We just laid it down and boom, solid runway. Sometimes it helps to nail a couple 2x4's underneath and dig holes for the 2x4's so the sheets down move around while your legs of power put the push in to huck gnargnar.
Plywood can usually be found free at construction sites around 1 in the morning or so. Usually it helps to have a partner. Or just use a white pickup truck and wear orange shirts, no one will question anything, and you can go in the light of the afternoon or evening.
Plywood can usually be found free at construction sites around 1 in the morning or so. Usually it helps to have a partner. Or just use a white pickup truck and wear orange shirts, no one will question anything, and you can go in the light of the afternoon or evening.
Some good info.JoeRay said:
thanks
We're trying to fortify desert dirtjumps so that they're pretty impervious to moto roosts, but to some degree, erosion as well. Obviously water only comes in the winter so our repair ability is limited. In the latter case, something somewhat maluable would be best.
The track 'hardeners' that are being talked about, are compaction agents nothing more ususally. They 'plasticise' the track profile by holding water in the soil for longer allowing for better compaction to take place. The most common chemical used to held this is water crystals. The same thing as you put in your pot plants to help the soil hold more water and stop it drying out. And provided they are kept damp will keep dust down.
Once dry the compaction remains but the surfae will begin to errode.
If you can only use limited water search google for lignosulfates, the brand we use on site is Dustex which is made in South Africa. Good stuff too. Once you set it up and compact it right you can leave it for a looong time.
My only concern would be getting adequate compaction on a BMX track or jumps, theres a big weight difference between a CAT 793 haul truck and a guy on a BMX.
This could be a reason why they break up on jumps after a while. There was only enough compaction to pack in the top few inches leaving a soft substrate which then allows the crust to flex and crack.
Cost wise lignosulfates are a bit spendy, we buy in bulk (tonnes at a time) and it works out to about $100/kilo in Aussie Dollars.
We trialled a polymer a few years back, it cost the same just didn't perform as well and you need to keep watering it.
Once dry the compaction remains but the surfae will begin to errode.
If you can only use limited water search google for lignosulfates, the brand we use on site is Dustex which is made in South Africa. Good stuff too. Once you set it up and compact it right you can leave it for a looong time.
My only concern would be getting adequate compaction on a BMX track or jumps, theres a big weight difference between a CAT 793 haul truck and a guy on a BMX.
This could be a reason why they break up on jumps after a while. There was only enough compaction to pack in the top few inches leaving a soft substrate which then allows the crust to flex and crack.
Cost wise lignosulfates are a bit spendy, we buy in bulk (tonnes at a time) and it works out to about $100/kilo in Aussie Dollars.
We trialled a polymer a few years back, it cost the same just didn't perform as well and you need to keep watering it.