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Jeremy R

Jeremy R

<b>x</b>
Nov 15, 2001
9,703
1,068
behind you with a snap pop
tlproject7 said:
hey, people with shovas, what are your bb heights? and with what fork. thanks
Click to expand...
BB height on Shovas are low for a 5.7 inch bike.
Mine is silly low because I am running a 120mm Reba.
Mine sits at 13.0 and I am running alot of sag and 175 cranks.
My pedals look like Gary Busey's face.
Ha, I think when I had a 140 fork on there it was 13.2 or 13.3
 
T

tlproject7

Monkey
Nov 15, 2005
520
0
hey, any of you guys have/or know where i could find the instructions or diagram for the a 2008 izimu pivot. spi2 or whatever, and if not, are there suppose to be spacers in between the swingarm and the front triangle at the pivot point? idk if that made sense exactly. thanks
 
DiscountedCycl

DiscountedCycl

Chimp
Apr 24, 2010
78
0
On my laptop
tlproject7 said:
hey, any of you guys have/or know where i could find the instructions or diagram for the a 2008 izimu pivot. spi2 or whatever, and if not, are there suppose to be spacers in between the swingarm and the front triangle at the pivot point? idk if that made sense exactly. thanks
Click to expand...
just goto www.morewoodbikes.com look at the usa dealer and contact the us rep he should be more then happy to help ya
 
motomike

motomike

Turbo Monkey
Jan 19, 2005
4,584
0
North Carolina
tlproject7 said:
hey, any of you guys have/or know where i could find the instructions or diagram for the a 2008 izimu pivot. spi2 or whatever, and if not, are there suppose to be spacers in between the swingarm and the front triangle at the pivot point? idk if that made sense exactly. thanks
Click to expand...
Yes there should be spacers there.
 
al-irl

al-irl

Turbo Monkey
Dec 9, 2004
1,086
0
A, A
no one else carries superstar. They bring from the factory direct so if they wont ship it to you then you cant get it. Unless u have a friend/relative or willing monkey to have it shipped to them and post it on
 
mattmatt86

mattmatt86

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2005
5,347
10
Bleedmore, Murderland
Mike, do you have any close up pic's of the paint? I have a buddy that can PC my frame for free and Flat Black was my first choice. Cane Creek is assembling the DB for my Izimu today, can't wait to ride it!
 
supercow

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
If you can find a good anodiser close by, I would whole heartedly recommend it.

Get beautiful colour in 10 easy steps, because your frame's worth it

Ive recently learned that anodising is not the harsh abrasive process "the interweb forumz" make it out to be, especially if you take it to someone that knows their stuff.

This isn't a complete "how to guide", but hopefully it wil dispell some myths surrounding anodising and also shows you what prep needs to be done by the anodiser to get the correct finish. Hopefully this will also clear some of the mystery surrounding anodising one's frame - it certainly did for me.

Another caveat to this post/thread - I am no anodising expert what so ever, all thanks go to "Steve the Anodiser" for keeping me up to speed with eveything he's done to the frame.


Step 1-Strip.

The bike needs to be stripped of all paint. There are various guides online on how to do this, but in in short - Nitromorse and elbow grease does the job very well.



Step 2 - Degrease

The frame is then put into a hot vapour degreaser tank which should remove any grease or oil.



Step 3 - De-oxidation

To establish the type of aluminium, the anodiser will go through a hot alkali cleaner and a de-oxidiser solution process. This also ensures that any existing anodising or oxidation on the aluminium has been removed and the whole frame is now bare metal.

This does mean that frames that have already been anodised, can be re-done.





Step 4 - RInse

After rinsing through several clean water tanks, the frame is then hung up to dry in a drying oven before any masking needs doing.



Step 5 - Butt-plugs

Now any surfaces that needs protection from blasting are masked up using special buns or tape.
As you might/might not have heard, when you bead blast, a (very very) tiny bit of the alu is blasted off (saying this makes it sound much harsher than it is!)
To put it into perspective - if your frame is scratched lightly before anodising, the scratch will still be there afterwards.
For good measure, the anodiser will mask they areas where the bearings will be fitted just to ensure that there will be zero play.

You can see the little butt-plug things in my ICG mount holes and where my bearings go



Step 6 - Blasting.

I had my frame bead blasted, which means that tiny beads of glass is "sprayed" onto the surface of the frame.

The swing arm being blasted



Blasting enclosure



You will now notice the matted look the blasting gives the frame





Step 7 - Brightening.

Next up, all parts get jigged up and then chemically brightened for a couple of minutes. This gives more shine to the blasted finish and flattens down the roughness that the blasting process gives.





After brightening, the components are noticeably brighter but the picture probably doesn't show this up too well.
Now all the masking media can be removed.






Step 8 - Anodising.

The parts now in the anodising vat. Everything gets a quick flick through an acid cleaner before getting anodised just to ensure that everything is chemically clean. As with all previous acid cleaning and brightening processes, all work is rinsed thoroughly in fresh running water to ensure there is no cross contamination between different treatment tanks.
The media must be aluminium or titanium and must make tight electrical contact for the entire time that the job is being anodised.
This is because anodising is non conductive, so if a wire moves half way through, then electrical contact will be lost and the whole job will need to be striped, and re treated all over again.



This is where the magic happens. This is the anodising vat which is kept at a constant temperature, acid concentration, voltage and the treatment time must be accurate within a couple of minutes. These parts will need to have about 1 hour in here for maximum anodic film thickness.

After they are anodised, the parts get rinsed again several times to wash out any traces of sulphuric acid. At this point the parts are still silver in colour but have a porus oxide coating which is ready to accept the dye stuff.



If we were to exclude the dying stage, this would be clear anodised. You will notice the welds are darker in colour, hence why you would normally see coloured anodising, as when colour dye is added, the darkened welds are hidden/cannot be seen.

Step 9 - Dye.


We can now leave the parts in the desired dye for as long as required to achieve the correct shade.



As these are for Black, half an hour should allow the anodic film to get saturated with as much dye as possible.



Step 10 - Seal.


Once the desired shade is achieved, the parts need to be sealed. This is done in a Nickel acetate solution which runs at close to boiling. This opens the pore structure in the anodising, allowing the nickel crystals to block the pores. We usually leave things to seal for at least half an hour.




Once this is complete the frame is rinsed off, blown dry with an air line and tand ut back in the hor air cupboard.

And here it is, the finished .. erm .. finish








So from this


to this




fin

ps: the reason I went for black is because I like "stock colours"
 
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mattmatt86

mattmatt86

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2005
5,347
10
Bleedmore, Murderland
Can anyone with an Izimu and CCDB give me a good starting point for setting up the shock? I'm installing mine tomorrow and hopefully taking it for a ride on Friday, I'm a hack when it comes to setting up suspension.
 
Tyler Durden

Tyler Durden

Monkey
Oct 7, 2003
202
0
Paper Street
I'm 5'10 225lbs.

2 turns of pre load.

All adjusters open counter clockwise first. Do not ham fist and break the LSA (not warranty)

Now turn clockwise

HSC 1-1.5 turns
LSC 10-14clicks
HSR 1-2 turns you may like 1.5 turns as well.
LSR 10-12clicks

Nothing is law here all riders are different.
 
profro

profro

Turbo Monkey
Feb 25, 2002
5,617
314
Walden Ridge
mattmatt86 said:
Can anyone with an Izimu and CCDB give me a good starting point for setting up the shock? I'm installing mine tomorrow and hopefully taking it for a ride on Friday, I'm a hack when it comes to setting up suspension.
Click to expand...
What year Izimu and which tuned CCDB?
 
mattmatt86

mattmatt86

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2005
5,347
10
Bleedmore, Murderland
profro said:
What year Izimu and which tuned CCDB?
Click to expand...
09 Izimu, Not sure on the tune. I called and talked with Malcom for 30+ minutes about my bike, riding style, weight etc. so hopefully whatever tune is right for my bike.

I'm 6' 1" 170ish lbs geared up and I try to be the opposite of a plower, whatever that means. Spring is a 300lb Ti.
 
profro

profro

Turbo Monkey
Feb 25, 2002
5,617
314
Walden Ridge
Spring rate should be right. I weight closer to 200 and I ran a 350. Malcom should have enough data on this setup to get you close if not spot on. But adjustments are free with the CCDB. Write down your base settings and make adjustments one at a time and make notes. In general, you'll get more effect from rebound adjustments. The low speed stuff is really on perceived at pedaling and slow speed cornering. Once up to speed you'll be in the high speed circuit. For reference, most of Clemson's track would be low speed stuff. Most of Windrock's track would be high speed. I usually ran my Izimu's with 40% sag and fairly wide open. They respond well to that.
 
mattmatt86

mattmatt86

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2005
5,347
10
Bleedmore, Murderland
Thanks Doug. Seems like such a simple idea but I would never have thought to bring pen and paper out with me. I remember Geritt saying at one race that he would run almost no LSC on the Izimu to give it a better small bump sensitivity.
 
profro

profro

Turbo Monkey
Feb 25, 2002
5,617
314
Walden Ridge
I keep a list of track conditions, shock settings, and observations in my phone. Very useful. Its a standard practice in F1, NASCAR, SX, Motocross, etc.

To the best of my knowledge Geriit usually runs a lot of LS and almost no HS.
 
Jeremy R

Jeremy R

<b>x</b>
Nov 15, 2001
9,703
1,068
behind you with a snap pop
profro said:
I usually ran my Izimu's with 40% sag and fairly wide open. They respond well to that.
Click to expand...
Same here.
Matt, I weighed in the 170's when I had my Izimu, and I ran a 300 spring as well. I ran it with a lot of sag, but ran the shock fairly wide open. It worked great like this at places like Windrock, and then when I rode somewhere like the Dirty Bird, I would just increase the LSC to hold the bike up better in the bermed turns.
IIRC, I ran my shock with
3/4 to 1 turn of HSC
5 to 7 clicks of LSC
1 turn of HSR
5 to 7 clicks of LSR
 
mattmatt86

mattmatt86

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2005
5,347
10
Bleedmore, Murderland
Thanks Guys!

Weather permitting I'm hoping to get some hike-a-bike runs tomorrow on some local trails that are comparable to Windrock. I'll start with the recommended settings and make small adjustments and notes from there.
 
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