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Problems with my 2010 Boxxers

May 16, 2008
30
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I just got my 2010 Boxxer teams

Out of the Box they felt pretty good. Did feel a little stiffer than i would have thought for a medium spring .

After each ride they have progressively gotten stiffer and stickier. Today was my third ride and the forks started to stick so much they were actually not rebounding. almost got tossed over the bars on a jump

At the bottom of my run there was rubber stuck on the left leg . I am assuming from my seals. I cleaned the seals and lubed them and the forks only lasted about 2 laps before they were crap again.

I havent popped them open yet, but thinking maybe they dont have enough oil in the bath maybe?? I know a batch of the old ones shipped out with nothing but grease in the legs .

I need to know how much oil goes in the bath?
or any other info anyone has. no one here in whistler knows anything about them yet. not too stoked on these forks right now

Any help would be appreciated.
 

ridingsupreme

Monkey
May 12, 2008
125
0
Santa Cluas lane
15cc's of 10w in each leg. sometimes when the seals are either new or really old they can cause the problems it sounds like your having but I have never worked on the 2010 stuff. and i've never heard of a crash as result of seal stiction that sucks a$!! try putting a bit of grease just above the seal and cycling the forks a dozen times so the grease can get in there . remove excess from legs and ride! idk if this helps or not but best of luck!
 

davep

Turbo Monkey
Jan 7, 2005
3,276
0
seattle
... I cleaned the seals and lubed them ...
I havent popped them open yet
...


Wha???

Like every other fork from every brand, you need to check bath oil and pack the seals with grease (putting lube on the outside of a seal does not work)....nothing new. You could argue that it should not be that way, but it is and has been for years (ever ridden machine build wheels w/o checking them over?).
 

BmxConvert

Monkey
Aug 6, 2007
715
0
Longview, Washington
15cc's of 10w in each leg. sometimes when the seals are either new or really old they can cause the problems it sounds like your having but I have never worked on the 2010 stuff. and i've never heard of a crash as result of seal stiction that sucks a$!! try putting a bit of grease just above the seal and cycling the forks a dozen times so the grease can get in there . remove excess from legs and ride! idk if this helps or not but best of luck!
It's no longer 15cc's in the lowers. It's 245cc's in the damper and 10cc in each lower leg for 2010. Also the 2010 boxxers may have a longer break in period due to the bushings inside being atleast twice as long.

I have a few friends that are on Sram deals and got their forks early. I talked to Sram numerous times about the specifics of the fork(although they typically had to call the engineer (Jeremy Boobar, I believe) to get the answers to my question). After talking it through with them I started doing full tear downs. They are every bit as quick as the pre '10 fork and a pleasure to work on.
What I would suggest is pull the lowers and pack slick honey in the gap btween the foam ring and the dust seal. When I say pack I mean really pack it in there. If you don't, any Slick Honey you put on the bushings/seal will migrate right into that gap when the fork cycles up and down. The first bushing is also easily accessed and much longer(atleast twice as)long as the pre '10 forks. Smear some Slick Honey on that.

-Kevin
 

slowmtb

Monkey
Aug 17, 2008
216
0
ChurChur, NZ
So you buy brand new forks and they have issues out of the box :plthumbsdown: . Then people step in to help and give the impression that many many forks of various brands can be the same - I mean seriously, :wtf: is the world coming to :disgust1:

Some good advice above though, all the best getting them dialled :weee:
 

go-ride.com

Monkey
Oct 23, 2001
548
6
Salt Lake City, UT

IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,524
494
Im over here now
So you buy brand new forks and they have issues out of the box :plthumbsdown: . Then people step in to help and give the impression that many many forks of various brands can be the same - I mean seriously, :wtf: is the world coming to :disgust1:

Some good advice above though, all the best getting them dialled :weee:
i agree.
i dont remember any fork that ive bought where ive had to take it apart to pack grease in there or to fill it up with oil....if the fork was a "do-it-yourself" kinda deal i can understand, but when youre buying a fork, the last thing i intend to do is take it apart just to use it.
id be sending it back for a R.A..
 

General Lee

Turbo Monkey
Oct 16, 2003
2,860
0
The 802
i agree.
i dont remember any fork that ive bought where ive had to take it apart to pack grease in there or to fill it up with oil....if the fork was a "do-it-yourself" kinda deal i can understand, but when youre buying a fork, the last thing i intend to do is take it apart just to use it.
id be sending it back for a R.A.

yeah that makes sense. 2-10 minutes of maintenance vs. waiting a week for someone else to put grease under a dust wiper. You don't have to do it, but the fork works a lot better if you do. I've had mine for 3 weeks and i've repacked the wipers twice already and will do it again this afternoon after riding in the mud yesterday. Small price to pay for a fork that feels perfect every time i get on it.

everyone wants a high end fork but no one wants to take care of it. nothing new.
 
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IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,524
494
Im over here now
im not talking about sending it in for service. id just return it.
DaveP mentioned, you need to check the oil bath and pack the seals with grease on every fork.
why should a end user do that?? you pay X amount of money for a fork and the last thing i should be worrying about is if the factory forgot to add the right amount of oil to the fork.
and i dont recall any fork ive ever owned, DH or XC, where ive had to do that....Foes, Fox, Marz

doin regular maintenance is one thing, sure....having to make the fork work outa the box is something completely out there


the OP said his fork is ridiculously stiff.....thats because they didnt pack grease into the seals? please
 
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General Lee

Turbo Monkey
Oct 16, 2003
2,860
0
The 802
the mistake you are making is assuming that because a few of us can make the fork work better than stock (and it works fine stock) and require less frequent rebuilds, prefer to use higher quality lube/grease than what comes oem, and are willing to share a bit of advice to other owners then all the forks need to be taken apart to work. simply not true. but like most things mass produced in this world there is room for improvement. that's all.
 

IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,524
494
Im over here now
so packing grease under his seals will fix his problem?

phew, there you go Northernstyle.....pack grease under you seals and youre A-okay.




of course theres room for improvement...i didnt say there was. re-read what i said and youll see that doing all the work to make it work outa the box is stupid.
like my opinion or not.
 

davetrump

Turbo Monkey
Jul 29, 2003
1,270
0
im not talking about sending it in for service. id just return it.
DaveP mentioned, you need to check the oil bath and pack the seals with grease on every fork.
why should a end user do that?? you pay X amount of money for a fork and the last thing i should be worrying about is if the factory forgot to add the right amount of oil to the fork.

doin regular maintenance is one thing, sure....having to make the fork work outa the box is something completely out there


the OP said his fork is ridiculously stiff.....thats because they didnt pack grease into the seals? please


having owned a 2010 boxxer for a month and done 6 days of lift serviced dh in all kinds of weather i can say there is nothong wrong with how rockshox is shipping the forks... how many people who are hating have even seen one let alone ridden one? right... that's what i thought


the fork comes with the correct oil levels, and grease under the wipers... the grease under the wipers on any fork gets ruin pretty quick and breaks washes out when riding in rain/mud... and the OEM stuff does not seem to be as good as slick honey/red rum combo.

the lowers are have the correct oil from the factory as well... but like any high end product it does not hurt (and is recommended) to rebuilt after the break in period is over (as in a good weekend of thrashing)>

The spring leg (spring comes coated in grease/red rum) and Damper do not need to be touched and out of the box they are perfect. if you change springs be sure to cover it in grease in the same manner as the one you removed.

Buy a 2010 boxxer... put a bit of triflow on the upper legs, cycle the fork a few times to work it in and do ride. your fork will feel great (this type of lube should be done daily or more in bad weather on ANY fork)

after a solid few days of riding it is a good idea to regrease/lube the lowers are the grease tends to settle in.... this should then be done at least every 30 days. depending on the weather i do it every two weeks or once a week as it only takes about 3 minutes, and keeps it feeling 100% perfect all the time. why wait until it feels like it needs to be cleaned and sacrifice performance? preventative maintenance goes a long long way.

also... if you have had a recent crash be sure to check that you did not twist the crowns... losen heaset and all crown bolts (sometime you will hear some noise as fork straightens itself out). check to see if evrerythins lined up by inserting the axle without wheel... it should line right up into the other leg. if it is off by a bit you need to align your crowns.

there you have it... how to break in and maintain a 2010 boxxer.

***edit the above advice should be applied to all DH forks.
 
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IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,524
494
Im over here now
so what you are your brother are saying is that packing grease and or using triflow on the seals will solve his problem?

allow me to retort.

his fork is getting progressively stiff. what can he do then?
 
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rollertoaster

Monkey
Aug 7, 2007
730
179
Douglassville , PA
My teammate was having a problem with his '10 team. The seals/dust wipers have already been lubed, but it was still crazy stiff and have really slow rebound. We took it apart after practice on saturday and found the problems.

1. the damper sealhead bushing (teflon) was excessively stiff (like you could barely slide it by hand).

2. turning the red rebound adjuster had no effect on the needle inside the rebound assembly (couldn't figure out how to dissaseble that part properly). Any way there is something broken in the rebound assemble that wouldn't allow the need to adjust. I managed to over-ride the adjuster and force it all the way open. He likes really fast rebound so, for now, that's not a problem

we got it working pretty good for sunday, but Rockshox is going to have to un-rig it on Friday after US open practice.
 

davetrump

Turbo Monkey
Jul 29, 2003
1,270
0
Idk... I look at it like the factory wax on skis/snowboards. Yes it will work out of the box, but not for an extended period of time, and you'll get better performance if you spend some time working on it yourself.
great analogy, actually...

i just get annoyed when one person has an issue the whole hate parade on here deems something to be crap. or the ever growing mentality that the "industry" in conspiring to "rip them off"
 

davetrump

Turbo Monkey
Jul 29, 2003
1,270
0
2. turning the red rebound adjuster had no effect on the needle inside the rebound assembly (couldn't figure out how to dissaseble that part properly). Any way there is something broken in the rebound assemble that wouldn't allow the need to adjust. I managed to over-ride the adjuster and force it all the way open. He likes really fast rebound so, for now, that's not a problem

we got it working pretty good for sunday, but Rockshox is going to have to un-rig it on Friday after US open practice.
by chance did you buddy try to remove the lower legs without taking the rebound adjuster knobs off?

that's a sure fire way to break the rebound adjuster rod up in the damper.

regardless of whether or not this is why, the chances are that is the part broken. as you discovered the fork is still rideable you just need to tune rebound internally until you get parts.

I would suggest you have your local shop call SRAM rather than wait until the Open. Chances are you will like the customer service you receive on this.
 

rollertoaster

Monkey
Aug 7, 2007
730
179
Douglassville , PA
by chance did you buddy try to remove the lower legs without taking the rebound adjuster knobs off?

that's a sure fire way to break the rebound adjuster rod up in the damper.

regardless of whether or not this is why, the chances are that is the part broken. as you discovered the fork is still rideable you just need to tune rebound internally until you get parts.

I would suggest you have your local shop call SRAM rather than wait until the Open. Chances are you will like the customer service you receive on this.
No, he didn't mess anything up when he took it apart for the first time. I do know what you are referring to though. We've got it feeling pretty damn good for now, if it doesn't get taken care of at the open he'll call on Tuesday and get it straightened out.

We know the CS is good, just want to let someone else who may be having the same problem know what we found.
 

davetrump

Turbo Monkey
Jul 29, 2003
1,270
0
No, he didn't mess anything up when he took it apart for the first time. I do know what you are referring to though. We've got it feeling pretty damn good for now, if it doesn't get taken care of at the open he'll call on Tuesday and get it straightened out.

We know the CS is good, just want to let someone else who may be having the same problem know what we found.
sent you a PM
 

davetrump

Turbo Monkey
Jul 29, 2003
1,270
0
this is why I did not buy a 2010 Boxxer yet :bonk:

I'm also pissed at push for not working on the older boxxer yet :bonk:
hate to break it to you, but you will still need to maintain the 2011 version

and of all the forks out there you have heard of two issues?

that is no different than any other product regardless of what generation of development it is in.

there will always be an isolated few QC issues with anything and it is a myth to believe it is just in first generation products.

the problem is people love to post online that something broke rather than calling company first... and if one person post that it broke a whole herd of people now believe it to be a fact that there is a flaw accross the board.

customer service and warrenty are a wonderful thing, and SRAM is excellent. so guess what, if you buy a boxxer now, next year, or the year after and have an issue they will stand behind the product and get you sorted.
 

rollertoaster

Monkey
Aug 7, 2007
730
179
Douglassville , PA
Guys I really don't mean to create any bad PR for Rockshox, I just wanted to try and help out the OP. We know RS will take care of it as always, but we were in a pinch trying to fix it in the hotel room saturday night before the race on Sunday.

Believe me, if I had the Money I'd be on an '10 boxxer myself.
 

davetrump

Turbo Monkey
Jul 29, 2003
1,270
0
This will hold true until we have to patch the firmware on our forks because of buggy code :brows:

case in point... i received a rear shock brand new that has been around for 5 years now (wont say what, but it is not from sram). it was completely useless and unsafe out of the box, and absolute piece of trash.

so does that mean we should all stay away from this shock until next year even though this is the 5th or 6th version?

I called the company in question and they mailed a new shock no questions asked... way better than throwing them under the bus on the internet
 
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General Lee

Turbo Monkey
Oct 16, 2003
2,860
0
The 802
Guys I really don't mean to create any bad PR for Rockshox, I just wanted to try and help out the OP. We know RS will take care of it as always, but we were in a pinch trying to fix it in the hotel room saturday night before the race on Sunday.

Believe me, if I had the Money I'd be on an '10 boxxer myself.
Funny story. I was trail riding yesterday and ran into a kid on the trail who asked about my Boxxer and i gave him the short story about how good I thought it was. His answer: "I don't know man my buddy said they all snap in half." I asked him where he got that information since very few people have new boxxers and those who do only got them a few weeks ago. Answer "oh, he said there are pictures of broken crowns and stuff all over pink bike. I guess everyone is breaking them."

remember that one picture of the broken casting (and the broken Trek) caused by the woman pile-driving her bike into the ground at La Bresse. That's the picture his friend must have seen and prompty started a rediculous rumor. So you'll have to forgive me if I call BS every time someone has an issue with their equipment and posts it online.

can't even begin to tell you how many 'blown' boxxer seals i've fixed for people at races over the years and it has never been anything other than a quick rebuild. the usual answer when i ask when the last time they lubed the dust wipers? "never, i didn;t know i could do that." Sorry, i just don;t have a great deal of faith in the average rider to properly maintain their high-end race fork prior to posting all the 'problems' on the internet.
 
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Iridemtb

Turbo Monkey
Feb 2, 2007
1,497
-1
Not really constructive here, but he the title is messed up too. Boxxers... he only has one.
 

offtheedge

Monkey
Aug 26, 2005
955
0
LB
Since when is a new piece of suspension out of the box needing some TLC news.

No offense to the OP, but I have yet to put a new fork or shock on any bike that didn't feel 10x's better after a rebuild.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,871
24,456
media blackout
Ok before this gets even more silly, I'll go back to serious mode.


Yes, these are expensive products. They are also high performance products. In this case, products made of metal. They are manufactured by machinists and assembled by trained laborers. In a perfect world, everyone in the factory that makes these forks would be a suspension guru so you would never have to adjust the fork out of the box. But we don't live in a perfect world, so sometimes you have to do a little work on something before you ride it. I'm just glad we're not racing DH on 100mm elastomer sprung forks anymore.
 

boogenman

Turbo Monkey
Nov 3, 2004
4,315
987
BUFFALO
and of all the forks out there you have heard of two issues?

that is no different than any other product regardless of what generation of development it is in.

there will always be an isolated few QC issues with anything and it is a myth to believe it is just in first generation products.
I'm thinking more about the 2003 Boxxer team that was a pile because it needed the Blackbox base valve installed(cheap I know) and the compression rod drilled(not easy for pinkbikers) which sram WOULD NOT cover. (by the way, the fork was great after that for it's time)

I love SRAM and I love the boxxer, been on them every year since 2003. I still don't want to be with out a fork warranty or not.
 

dan-o

Turbo Monkey
Jun 30, 2004
6,499
2,805
Between this report and the April recall there's no way I'm buying a boxxer.