[jonKranked]

Get over it. Why should he have to do any of this on a "NEW" product.

Let me guess, you're the same guy who doesn't think a brand new chain out of the box needs to be properly lubricated.

By your logic, we shouldn't have to inflate brand new inner tubes either.

And where does this leave the recreational rider, you guys seem to be conveniently forgetting about the 99% of riders out there who will also be using these products. Sorry, but it just does not wash with me. This sport is not just restricted to the elite you know. Race pace blahdy blah

If you're only a recreational rider, then why in the world are you buying a top of the line race fork? The BWC isn't oriented (or even marketed) to the weekend warrior. Go buy a Monster T if you want a fork you can thrash on and not service. Put some Gazzi three-oh's on while you're at it.

Going by your train of though applied to the car industry:
Upon the "recreational" commuter purchasing there car they should know that cars do break down and should immediately rebuild the engine after its first drive even though its first scheduled tune up isn't till 5,000 miles.

That's some of the most backwards logic I've ever heard, stop misconstruing other peoples words. A "recreational" commuter wouldn't be purchasing a race car. They'd probably get a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. Not a Lotus, not a MG, not a McClaren, not a Ferrari (unless you commute on the Autobahn )

 

[General Lee]

I was planning to give my fork a quick service before the US Open. Maybe I'll stick my helmet cam on my head while I do it so you can see how flipping easy it is to keep your fork in working order. In fact, it will probably take you less time than complaining on the internet. And you might actually solve your own problem . . imagine that.

Fair warning, it does involve actually unthreading 2 bolts so if you're not mechanically inclined you might want to skip it and go back to mounting your tires backwards or something.

 

[toodles]

What's the new Maxle thingy like anyway?

 

[General Lee]

What's the new Maxle thingy like anyway?

a 100% improvement over the previous version. simply unthread the compression side until in no longer clicks, then unthread the axel. Unlike the original maxel it should be all but impossible to strip the bolts or have it sieze up internally (for those of you with an aversion to putting grease on anything you might actually want to remove some day). I'm sure someone will find a way to eff it up soon enough (most likely from overtightening the sh*t out of it) and the internet verdict will be that it's total crap.

 

[toodles]

Yeah the old maxle was mostly ok, just they seemed to eventually get wrecked as they were made out of proprietry Truvativ Butterfelt alloy. Good to hear it's a sturdier interface.

At the risk of sticking my neck out in a thread where the argument has turned from service intervals to whether out-of-the-box servicing is required, I'd like to know what the service intervals seem to be in comparison to pre-2010 Boxxers.

If the tolerances are better, it stands to reason that you'd actually get less crap in the fork and less grease getting out of the fork. I know stripping Boxxers is piss easy, but for arguments sake, are we talking significantly more frequent maintenance being required? Or is all this hoo-ha just the usual forum crap and the lowers are practically identical (maintenance-wise) to previous years?

 

[General Lee]

Yeah the old maxle was mostly ok, just they seemed to eventually get wrecked as they were made out of proprietry Truvativ Butterfelt alloy. Good to hear it's a sturdier interface.

At the risk of sticking my neck out in a thread where the argument has turned from service intervals to whether out-of-the-box servicing is required, I'd like to know what the service intervals seem to be in comparison to pre-2010 Boxxers.

If the tolerances are better, it stands to reason that you'd actually get less crap in the fork and less grease getting out of the fork. I know stripping Boxxers is piss easy, but for arguments sake, are we talking significantly more frequent maintenance being required? Or is all this hoo-ha just the usual forum crap and the lowers are practically identical (maintenance-wise) to previous years?

I'm hoping this is the case. On the pre-2010 forks the dust wipers were easy to pop up and could be pushed back down with your fingers. the new ones are extremely tight (and most likely the reason for the 'sticky' forks we're reading about). I popped mine up before even riding to put some extra grease under them and help speed up the break in time, it was apparent that they are a way tighter fit than the old ones and it stands to reason that they should do a better job keeping dirt out/grease in. but they also look to be an identical design so who knows, but they are certainly better sealed out of the box. I know the seal on Dave's wipers was so good he couldn't reset them w/out slipping a thin screwdriver between the lip of the wiper and the stanchion to let the trapped air escape. never seen that on the old forks.

So far i've pretty much stuck to the usual routine of lightly lubing the lip of the wipers before every ride (a 30 second job). just like a chain they have a tendency to dry out and need a quick lube now and then.

2 of my first 3 rides ended in rainstorms, mud, and power washing and i popped up the wipers, cleaned them off, and reapplied some grease under them out of habbit. I'm certainly not going to be the guniea pig to find out how long I can go w/out even simple service.

 

[toodles]

Fair call. I thought they'd be similar or better. Good to hear...

Now I just need a tragic accident to befall my beloved 09 WC before I can justify new shiny stuff.

 

[boogenman]

Car company comments: that made me laugh. Who lost the most amount of money last quarter? Which car company made money last quarter? The auto industry problems are due to consumers not buying cars due to credit.

You're incorrect ass hat. People are not buying cars, credit has nothing to do with it.

 

[Pegboy]

Too funny. A lot of people who claim to be educated certainly have an ignorant approach to certain things.

"Blah, blah, blah, people on the internet claiming products are crap, blah, blah, this is normal acceptable performance, blah, blah, I'm just trying to help while completely insulting the user, blah, blah, people bitching on the internet, blah, blah"

No one called the product crap, not once in this thread. Stating that people are making assinine claims about things that they have no experience on is quite funny when in fact YOU have no idea about the guy's circumstance other than what YOU HAVE READ ON THE INTERNET. People making comments about top of the line race forks, and products that others have no experience on are using the WC for reference when the forks in question are the Team model.

Apparently we help by insulting, bitching about people bitching on the internet is somehow not bitching on the internet, and products that fail to perform, even marginally, after three rides is completely acceptable and anyone who differs in opinion is a half wit.

I have ridden Boxxers exclusively since 2000 up until this year. And while I may be fully capable of rebuilding/servicing the fork and tweaking it to unleash it's full potential, not everybody is in the same boat. Like it or not, there are a lot of fairly young kids who will ride this fork and they will certainly be OEM on a lot of DH bikes sold to people who may not be all that mechanically inclined. My ONLY POINT was, for a fork to have to be serviced after only three rides, without some sort of written notification and instructions, should not be acceptable from the user. Hell, the guy even followed peoples "suggestions" only to have the same thing occur.

The product is not crap. They make one of the best lines of DH forks on the market and most of these problems will probably be rectified by next years model, but lets not dismiss that sceanrios exist and blame them on the user otherwise products will never improve.

 

[General Lee]

No one called the product crap, not once in this thread. Stating that people are making assinine claims about things that they have no experience on is quite funny when in fact YOU have no idea about the guy's circumstance other than what YOU HAVE READ ON THE INTERNET. People making comments about top of the line race forks, and products that others have no experience on are using the WC for reference when the forks in question are the Team model.

last time i checked (about 5 hours ago) my boxxer had a spring in it.

 

[Sam B]

not sure who told you that but it is false... do not put 40cc into the lower legs... you will bottom out on compressed oil and your fork will not be the better for it.

245cc of 5wt oil in the damper, and 10 cc of 15wt in the lowers... this is direct from and engineer at SRAM and this is what is printed in their Service Documents for the 2010 fork (which i was told should be online this week)

another tip for putting oil in lowers... put upper tubes in until the touch the first bushing and not much more. pour oil in through the bottom, wait a few seconds and then push uppers the rest of the way down berore turning fork upright. the idea behind this is that the oil will stay mostly in the area between the two bushings thus providing constant lubrication... eventually it works it's way down, hence the need to rebuild once a month or so.

40cc of oil sitting in the bottom of your fork will lube nothing... do not do it

First I checked my old e-mail and found an e-mail where I was told 15cc per leg. Then I asked if that 40cc was a typo and get this as a reply...

"40cc is correct. We've increased that volume. We found that with 15cc most of the oil ends up on the spring and does not stay on the bushings.

Jeremiah"

 

[funkendrenchman]

First I checked my old e-mail and found an e-mail where I was told 15cc per leg. Then I asked if that 40cc was a typo and get this as a reply...

"40cc is correct. We've increased that volume. We found that with 15cc most of the oil ends up on the spring and does not stay on the bushings.

Jeremiah"

Is this for 2010s, or pre-2010s?

 

[Sam B]

Is this for 2010s, or pre-2010s?

2010 Team

 

[davetrump]

2010 Team

if you call SRAM they tell you 10cc, and that is what will be printed in all the tech documents.

maybe neither is right or wrong but i am going to stick with 10cc and some light grease/red rum on the

spring let me know if you have any issue with 40 if you try it

 

[Pegboy]

last time i checked (about 5 hours ago) my boxxer had a spring in it.

People generally refers to more than one, which I was, but I will admit having seen pictures of your bike with white lowers and black stickers (Vs. the gray) led me to believe you were on a WC. Either way, I think you get my point.

 

[General Lee]

People generally refers to more than one, which I was, but I will admit having seen pictures of your bike with white lowers and black stickers (Vs. the gray) led me to believe you were on a WC. Either way, I think you get my point.

only advantage to air is weight. After 3 years using the WC I still prefer the feel of a coil spring; and it's more consistent on long tracks. until RS makes a spring/air combo i'm sticking with springs. as for graphics the only difference between the WC and team is a small rainbow sticker on the left leg of the WC, other than that they look the same.

 

[northernstyle]

Cool so I am returning my forks today and getting a brand new pair.

I will hopefully have them on and ready to go this weekend. The shop i am getting them off has 2 more pair and they are checking the coil side as i type this to see if all the forks they got are oil and grease free. As far as the rebound not working, neither myself nor the shop know how to work on the rebound/ dampner cartridge so I am just going to try another one.

For all you ignorant fools who are ranting and raving trying to justify that i probably just turned the rebound too far in one direction or it was somehow my fault that the forks came without oil, i shake my head at you.

This is not a World Cup this is a team.. I am seriously stoked for you that your forks work great, i was really hoping mine would too. I ride my bike almost everyday in the whistler bike park and in one week probably log in more vertical than most of you idiots do in a summer. I always properly maintain my bikes and service my forks every week.

I am simply sharing my frustration with the overall quality control of this new product.

I will re-post in a couple of days and let everyone know how the new fork goes.
cheers to everyone that actually gave me some positive suggestions.

 

[General Lee]

Cool so I am returning my forks today and getting a brand new pair.

I will hopefully have them on and ready to go this weekend. The shop i am getting them off has 2 more pair and they are checking the coil side as i type this to see if all the forks they got are oil and grease free. As far as the rebound not working, neither myself nor the shop know how to work on the rebound/ dampner cartridge so I am just going to try another one.

Sounds like your shop has some pretty good mechanics . . . . but good to see you did what you should have from the get-go and called SRAM and got yourself sorted out. see how much better that works than complaining online? Posts like this have the same stupid effect as swine flu: over 6.6 billion people didn't get sick but you'd never know it listening to the news last week.

My teammate was having a problem with his '10 team. The seals/dust wipers have already been lubed, but it was still crazy stiff and have really slow rebound. We took it apart after practice on saturday and found the problems.

1. the damper sealhead bushing (teflon) was excessively stiff (like you could barely slide it by hand).

2. turning the red rebound adjuster had no effect on the needle inside the rebound assembly (couldn't figure out how to dissaseble that part properly). Any way there is something broken in the rebound assemble that wouldn't allow the need to adjust. I managed to over-ride the adjuster and force it all the way open. He likes really fast rebound so, for now, that's not a problem

we got it working pretty good for sunday, but Rockshox is going to have to un-rig it on Friday after US open practice.

Differnt poster, different fork but I just read this again, and it goes to show why you should be hesitant of what you read on the internet.

No kidding the red knob had no effect on the needle, it's not supposed to. the red knob controls a pre-load spring that threads up and down putting pressure on a shim stack at the top of the rebound damper. the needle is controlled by the gray knob. I don't even want to know what you mean by 'over-ride' the adjuster . . . but if you opened it up and didn't notice the red adjuster doing anything (the spring sliding up and down would be really obvious) i'd be curious to see if your friend did this: http://ridemonkey.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3219501&postcount=6

the adjuster knobs are really stiff out of the box. a little use loosens them up really fast but i have a suspicion that there are going to be a bunch of 'broken' forks because the adjusters were forced too hard on one direction or the other.

 

[Teamsuzukirm19z]

Sounds like your shop has some pretty good mechanics . . . .





Differnt poster, different fork but I just read this again, and it goes to show why you should be hesitant of what you read on the internet.

No kidding the red knob had no effect on the needle, it's not supposed to. the red knob controls a pre-load spring that threads up and down putting pressure on a shim stack at the top of the rebound damper. the needle is controlled by the gray knob. I don't even want to know what you mean by 'over-ride' the adjuster . . . but if you opened it up and didn't notice the red adjuster doing anything (the spring sliding up and down would be really obvious) i'd be curious to see if your friend did this: http://ridemonkey.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3219501&postcount=6

the adjuster knobs are really stiff out of the box. a little use loosens them up really fast but i have a suspicion that there are going to be a bunch of 'broken' forks because the adjusters were forced too hard on one direction or the other.

Not that I want in on this thread because it is already out of control but to defend my friend he made a typo he said the red knob but he should have said the gray knob. I completely understand what knob controls each part of the rebound assembly and my ending stroke works fine it was the beginning that was broke and it still is. Should you force your needle into the shaft to make it rebound? NO absolutely not but when you are at a race getting your cage rattled it didn’t really matter how it got fixed as long as it could work for the day. The main problem wasn't actually the rebound though it was the seal head. The coating on the bushing in the seal head had bad tolerances and was creating a crazy amount of sticktion on the rebound shaft which was causing the fork to be extremely harsh and very very stiff. If we would have fixed just the seal head bushing and left the rebound it would have been better but for all of those who have their beg. stroke rebound working mine was closed past the point where you could see the taper of the needle it just looked like a strait rod it was in so far. I think it was in further than a working assembly can go but since I have not seen one that is working proper I can’t be sure of that.

I’m not concerned about it RS will get me another assembly as soon as they can. For now my fork is working awesome I just can’t adjust the beg stroke rebound... But honestly once I can adjust it chances are I will have it just about as fast as it can go all the time there may be a few times I put it a few clicks slower the I like my rebound pretty fast.

To end on a positive note the fork is great right now it is everything I could have expected.

 

[slowmtb]

Sounds like your shop has some pretty good mechanics . . . . but good to see you did what you should have from the get-go and called SRAM and got yourself sorted out. see how much better that works than complaining online? Posts like this have the same stupid effect as swine flu: over 6.6 billion people didn't get sick but you'd never know it listening to the news last week.





Differnt poster, different fork but I just read this again, and it goes to show why you should be hesitant of what you read on the internet.

No kidding the red knob had no effect on the needle, it's not supposed to. the red knob controls a pre-load spring that threads up and down putting pressure on a shim stack at the top of the rebound damper. the needle is controlled by the gray knob. I don't even want to know what you mean by 'over-ride' the adjuster . . . but if you opened it up and didn't notice the red adjuster doing anything (the spring sliding up and down would be really obvious) i'd be curious to see if your friend did this: http://ridemonkey.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3219501&postcount=6

the adjuster knobs are really stiff out of the box. a little use loosens them up really fast but i have a suspicion that there are going to be a bunch of 'broken' forks because the adjusters were forced too hard on one direction or the other.

Oh, I see, it gets even better

 

[General Lee]

Not that I want in on this thread because it is already out of control but to defend my friend he made a typo he said the red knob but he should have said the gray knob. I completely understand what knob controls each part of the rebound assembly and my ending stroke works fine it was the beginning that was broke and it still is. Should you force your needle into the shaft to make it rebound? NO absolutely not but when you are at a race getting your cage rattled it didn’t really matter how it got fixed as long as it could work for the day. The main problem wasn't actually the rebound though it was the seal head. The coating on the bushing in the seal head had bad tolerances and was creating a crazy amount of sticktion on the rebound shaft which was causing the fork to be extremely harsh and very very stiff. If we would have fixed just the seal head bushing and left the rebound it would have been better but for all of those who have their beg. stroke rebound working mine was closed past the point where you could see the taper of the needle it just looked like a strait rod it was in so far. I think it was in further than a working assembly can go but since I have not seen one that is working proper I can’t be sure of that.

I’m not concerned about it RS will get me another assembly as soon as they can. For now my fork is working awesome I just can’t adjust the beg stroke rebound... But honestly once I can adjust it chances are I will have it just about as fast as it can go all the time there may be a few times I put it a few clicks slower the I like my rebound pretty fast.

To end on a positive note the fork is great right now it is everything I could have expected.

1. Those bad tolerances are also known as a 'break in period.' mine was sticky too, i put some more grease on it and it worked fine. did i need to, probably not, but it certainly helped take the edge off the break in period up a bit.


2. that needle has threads at the adjuster end, you turn the knob and it threads up and down like a long screw. I gotta wonder how it got all the way past the free bleed holes w/out the adjuster being turned.

 

[rollertoaster]

I don't know why I keep reading this thread, it just pisses me off every time. So what, I made a friggin type-o on the color of the stupid rebound knob. The bottom line is I do understand how the rebound assembly works and it was broken OUT OF THE BOX. I wouldn't have been able to push the needle down if the threads were engaged. I even tried to get them to re-engage with no luck. I didn't want to further dissasemble the internal adjuster rod because we had very limited resources available at the time and I didn't want to do more harm than good.

There was also a problem with the seal head tollerance. I tried to grease it first and it was ridiculously stiff. The fork was nearly unridable before we took it apart.

And as for getting it warranteed. SRAM is not sending a replacement fork, and they don't even have replacement parts available yet.

 

[Teamsuzukirm19z]

1. Those bad tolerances are also known as a 'break in period.' mine was sticky too, i put some more grease on it and it worked fine. did i need to, probably not, but it certainly helped take the edge off the break in period up a bit.


2. that needle has threads at the adjuster end, you turn the knob and it threads up and down like a long screw. I gotta wonder how it got all the way past the free bleed holes w/out the adjuster being turned.

I dont want to argue about anything because I see no purpose in it, all Im saying is my fork out of the box and my friends fork out of the box both 2010 white teams. I took the lowers off both forks and greased them, my friends fork the rebound worked and there was no stickyness and mine was very sticky and the rebound slow. I rode it two times to try and break in in I figured that was the problem but after two days of riding it was still very very stiff. My friends out of the box with no grease on the bushings or seals was 10 times plusher than mine after greasing the bushings and seals and two days of lift access riding. After fixing the seal head it works flawless.

I know there are a lot of people on here who just throw around useless information and give opinions when they shouldn't, but Im not sure why people don't think its possible for a fork to have a problem when its new. What I don't appreciate is people saying that it must be user error when it is entirely possible that there is something wrong with the fork. Im a SRAM fanboy and I run Rockshox, Avid, Truvativ and SRAM I love the company but this fork was broke when I got it.

 

[rollertoaster]

it's a real shame. The new boxxer's have, by far, the best quality components inside that I've ever seen in a mtb fork. Too bad the sweat-shop worker that assembled them doesn't know how to work a micrometer and a bore gauge.

If you were assembling an engine, would you just throw the rod bearings in and fire it up without measuring first????

 

[Udi]

if you call SRAM they tell you 10cc, and that is what will be printed in all the tech documents.

maybe neither is right or wrong but i am going to stick with 10cc and some light grease/red rum on the

spring let me know if you have any issue with 40 if you try it

Hey Dave, I'd suggest going with the 40cc. The spring leg in team has a lot more volume than the damper leg or air-spring leg, and the problem is that if you just have a small amount of oil in there (10-15cc), it just gets absorbed by the spring grease (leaving the bath and bushings fairly dry). Because there is so much extra volume in that leg (even more with the new 35mm stanchions) there aren't any issues with volume / ramp up / pressure so it's safe to be generous with the bath oil. You can't really do that in a damper / air spring lower leg though, because the stanchions have sealed bases and there's much less volume in the lower.

Hope that helps.

 

[funkyflea]

I just got my Boxxer Team today and the (gray) BSR doesnt appear to have any loud sounding clicks like the (red) ESR has. Anyone know if it should make any sound while turning?

 

[rollertoaster]

Grey is the little one right? if so, yes it should have detents that you can feel

 

[funkyflea]

Thanks!

I can feel one detent at first, then when I keep turning it I cant feel any more detents. After turning maybe one hole turn, if change direction I can feel a detent. Same goes for the other way. Seems weird it should have 24
clicks it says.

 

[davetrump]

Thanks!

I can feel one detent at first, then when I keep turning it I cant feel any more detents. After turning maybe one hole turn, if change direction I can feel a detent. Same goes for the other way. Seems weird it should have 24
clicks it says.

the detents are a bit subtle, and i agre that "clicks" was probably not the best wording.

I would advise you guage the adjustment in terms of full turns (as in adjust in 1/2 turn increments). 24 notches is way to many to notice the difference form one notch to the other, and keeping track of it by turns means you always know where it should be adjusted just in case you do not fell/hear on of the detents.

 

[madzappa]

I've had the Team for a couple of weeks now with about 10 hrs ride time. It began to feel sticky and I notice there was also that glue like residual on the left stanchion. So I dropped the lowers and found pretty much no bath oil, and NO seal grease on the left side!! The right side was fine. It took about 30 minutes to get it tip top, and everything seems super plush again.

So if you buy one, be prepared to for this. I have no complaints, factory stuff always needs tweaking. And this truly is awesome fork.

Anyways, thanks for all helpful tips/links here.

 

[funkyflea]

I have now located the range of turns on the BSR (gray) and the speed is different in both ends! That’s good seems to be working.

I have noticed an annoying clicking sound from the spring. It seems like others have it too.

I opened the spring side and took the leg out, the bushings had oil on them but not so much Id say 10cc maybe, I filled it up with 20cc. The seal was poorly greased so I put some RnR Super slick in there now the leg moves smoothly!

Now to the issue of pulling the compression and rebound leg off.

It seems to me that the use of that type of c-clip is not intended to be removed every time you should like to pull the leg off. The red knob even has two cuts in it to align it with a 24mm spanner. Aren’t you just supposed to unthread it with both rebound knobs attached? I would assume that when you look at the design of the red knob. Have anyone tried this?

Why oh why isn’t there a service manual on the new boxxer out, the forks are out.. seems weird. I’m going to email rockshox and ask!

 

[davetrump]

I have noticed an annoying clicking sound from the spring. It seems like others have it too.

Now to the issue of pulling the compression and rebound leg off.

It seems to me that the use of that type of c-clip is not intended to be removed every time you should like to pull the leg off. The red knob even has two cuts in it to align it with a 24mm spanner. Aren’t you just supposed to unthread it with both rebound knobs attached? I would assume that when you look at the design of the red knob. Have anyone tried this?

to answer the first part... that click only happens when fork is fully topped out correct? this is the top out spring (coil spring with hard rubber end) coming "unstuck" from the base of the spring leg... there is grease/oil on all this stuff and that sound is from the suction of them moving apart.... since fork is saged while riding you never have it happen, just when fork has been topped out for a bit. it is not spring rub/rattle like some have thought... if you have spring removed, and lower leg removed, push/pull spring compression rod in/out and you will see see what i mean. nothing to worry about. try pushing fork up and down without letting top out... you should have no sounds at all.

as for the second part... DO NOT turn the bolt on the bottom of the damper leg without removing the knobs. when removed you will see that the bolts spins on bearings around rebound adjuster so it never changes settings... not removing these will damage rebound adjuster or damping assembly since it does no have as mant turns as the threaded bolt needs to be removed.

c-clip takes a small screwdriver, that's all

if any off this seems hard or difficult you might not want to open your fork until you have a better understanding of how it all goes together

hope this helps

 

[madzappa]

Now to the issue of pulling the compression and rebound leg off.

It seems to me that the use of that type of c-clip is not intended to be removed every time you should like to pull the leg off. The red knob even has two cuts in it to align it with a 24mm spanner. Aren’t you just supposed to unthread it with both rebound knobs attached? I would assume that when you look at the design of the red knob. Have anyone tried this?

A thin spanner works, and I wound the dials tight(clockwise) before backing off the assembly - I'm not sure if you need to do this, but it seemed smart at the time. Obviously don't hammer the dials to get the cartridge out. Take that knob assembly out and thread in another bolt from your tool box to use as a punch. Sorry I don't know the size of that bolt.

 

[General Lee]

A thin spanner works, and I wound the dials tight(clockwise) before backing off the assembly - I'm not sure if you need to do this, but it seemed smart at the time. Obviously don't hammer the dials to get the cartridge out. Take that knob assembly out and thread in another bolt from your tool box to use as a punch. Sorry I don't know the size of that bolt.

correct. you can unthread the adjuster assembly w/out removing the c-clip but you MUST turn the red knob fully clockwise (closed) first. personally, i just pop the c-clip off and i picked up a couple of spare ones from the hardware store just in case i happen to lose it.

as for using a bolt to unset the damper rod from the lower leg, a standard isis crank bolt will do the trick. i definitely don't suggest banging on the adjuster knobs.

w/ the exception of removing the rebound adjuster the new boxxer is disassembled 100% the same as the previous models.

 

[slowmtb]

to answer the first part... that click only happens when fork is fully topped out correct? this is the top out spring (coil spring with hard rubber end) coming "unstuck" from the base of the spring leg... there is grease/oil on all this stuff and that sound is from the suction of them moving apart.... since fork is saged while riding you never have it happen, just when fork has been topped out for a bit. it is not spring rub/rattle like some have thought... if you have spring removed, and lower leg removed, push/pull spring compression rod in/out and you will see see what i mean. nothing to worry about. try pushing fork up and down without letting top out... you should have no sounds at all.

as for the second part... DO NOT turn the bolt on the bottom of the damper leg without removing the knobs. when removed you will see that the bolts spins on bearings around rebound adjuster so it never changes settings... not removing these will damage rebound adjuster or damping assembly since it does no have as mant turns as the threaded bolt needs to be removed.

c-clip takes a small screwdriver, that's all

if any off this seems hard or difficult you might not want to open your fork until you have a better understanding of how it all goes together

hope this helps

Dave, you have obviously worked on these a fair bit. Do you have a link with pics for these guys OR can you post something up ( with pics ) to help these guys get their heads around the process? I know many people on here would appreciate it.

 

[davetrump]

Driving to the US Open so that won't be doable any time soon.

Maybe the next time a rebuild mine I will snap some pics and start a 2010 boxxer tips thread or something... Lots of good info in this thread but lots of BS as well.

And I tried the 40cc in the lowers of the spring leg and it seems to be fine.

So yeah... Drip lowers, cover seals wipers and upper bushing in slick honey... Insert legs just until first bushing conacts... Than 10cc of 15wt in bottom of damper leg and 40cc in spring leg.

This should make an awesome fork. Regardless of what itis or isn't like out of the box.. This should solve almost all "issues" people have mentioned thus far.

Dave, you have obviously worked on these a fair bit. Do you have a link with pics for these guys OR can you post something up ( with pics ) to help these guys get their heads around the process? I know many people on here would appreciate it.

 

[Udi]

Just wondering, did anyone here buy the WC? Curious if the solo air is working much the same as previous years (apart from needing less pressure, and having the volume adjuster) and/or if there are any problems so far.

 

[nugget]

Dave,

Do you tighten up the bolts at full travel or do you do it at half which creates a sort of vacuum?

 

[davetrump]

Full travel on the team...

Not sure on WC (I know old WC sometimes needed it at half, but my old ones never did so go figure)

Air trpped in bottom is not an issue with a coil spring
Since it is not sealed if that's wht you were wondering

Dave,

Do you tighten up the bolts at full travel or do you do it at half which creates a sort of vacuum?

 

[northernstyle]

Cool so i got a new fork today.

Popped them open and the same as my last one they did not have any oil in the coil side, hardly any grease between the bushings. Packed it with red rum, tossed in 15 cc for good measure. The rebound knobs work a lot better than my other fork. One thing that is new however is that there wasnt enough spacers in the top of spring. The first compression of the fork results in a pretty noticable knocking. Tossed another spacer in there and now its all good.


Gonna take out the new fork for a spin tomorrow, will post again tomorrow night and tell everyone how they feel.

Hoping they feel good , still not stoked on the quality control of these forks.
Like it would literally take someone two seconds to double check these things to make sure they ship out ready to perform.