You guys think its strong enough for a 210 pound dude that rides... well, lets say, un-smooth?
Profile 19mm Ti Spindle
- Thread starter Boxxer
- Start date
yep, I do
Good, next question. Ive seen yes and no on searches ive done already.
Profile spindle on Deity cranks? I know they are both 19mm 48 spline... Running a euro BB with Deitys 5 3/4 inch spindle a good chain line and equal spacing left to right(so the pedals are the same distance from the ST or DT) doesnt leave much of the spindle engaged in the crank boss. I want to install a 6 inch spindle to help with this.. and figure profile is as good as it gets.
Profile spindle on Deity cranks? I know they are both 19mm 48 spline... Running a euro BB with Deitys 5 3/4 inch spindle a good chain line and equal spacing left to right(so the pedals are the same distance from the ST or DT) doesnt leave much of the spindle engaged in the crank boss. I want to install a 6 inch spindle to help with this.. and figure profile is as good as it gets.
fsa makes an equivalent ti spindle for cheaper. check danscomp and ebay. I'm not an expert on deity cranks as I've never owned a set so I can't comment on the spindle compatibility.
I've been running an FSA Ti spindle for close to 2 years without issue on Profiles.
I'd search on mtbr.com on compatibility issues w/ Deity and Profile/FSA spindles. IIRC, Eric from Deity said there might be a minute difference - something about Profile being 3/4" (19.05mm) and Deity exactly 19mm. At the very least send him an email - he responds very quickly and is really personable.
Thanks for all the info guys. Just another side note/question. I have the profile euro cups and it comes with a sleeve for 68 and another for 73 mm BB shells. I took a caliper and measured the flange to flange(inside) distance of the BB with the 'correct' sleeve in place and its about 2-3 mm longer than the actuall BB shell. I know this sleeve is to prevent side loading the bearings, but if I install it as is, I dont think it will allow me to tighten the BB cups down all the way.
Ive done the deitys before on several bikes, and since the none drive cup isnt fixed you can just keep threading it in untill you feel it butt up against the sleeve.
Anyone run into a 'problem' like this before? Im tempted to mill off those few extra MM's so I can get the BB threaded in just right.
Any input/experience with this would be cool. Thanks again.
Ive done the deitys before on several bikes, and since the none drive cup isnt fixed you can just keep threading it in untill you feel it butt up against the sleeve.
Anyone run into a 'problem' like this before? Im tempted to mill off those few extra MM's so I can get the BB threaded in just right.
Any input/experience with this would be cool. Thanks again.
Edit:
Just looked at it again. I think that extra space is intended for the E type spacer that goes on the drive side cup. I guess the options are run the spacer on the drive side cup or shave the BB spacer tube down some to allow the cups to seat all the way against the BB shell.
Just looked at it again. I think that extra space is intended for the E type spacer that goes on the drive side cup. I guess the options are run the spacer on the drive side cup or shave the BB spacer tube down some to allow the cups to seat all the way against the BB shell.
I have cut those spacer tubes before with a hacksaw. this may be necessary for you in this situation.
You know what I did instead... I took the tube spacer for the 68mm shell and added a thick washer to it to get it so it was the same as the BB shell width. Worked like a charm.
thanks for the heads up tiles.
thanks for the heads up tiles.
This sounds like the right way to go , always use a spacer when possible ... this was going to be my suggestion .
the only reason why I've sawed them in the past was because I didn't have a shorter spacer to work with at the time. I have also gotten the exact measurement the longer sleeve was too long by and removed that material to get a perfect fit.
I can't say I havent done it in the past ,the HACKSAW is my friend . Sometime's I have been known to just leave that part out all together and run my cranks tight untill they loosen up , then just keep tighten them again and again
you would think that after all these years of running profile type 3pc cranks I would learn but no I dont . This might be the reason I flat out love the angular contact bearing that FLY is working on right now , you dont need the inner spacer any longer 
you mean this spacer?This might be the reason I flat out love the angular contact bearing that FLY is working on right now , you dont need the inner spacer any longer
Thats the guilty one.
Any idea when the angular contact bearing is coming out? Sounds like a great setup.I can't say I havent done it in the past ,the HACKSAW is my friend . Sometime's I have been known to just leave that part out all together and run my cranks tight untill they loosen up , then just keep tighten them again and again
cool - I'll keep an eye out for it. Thanks Brad 