[Curious_George]

Chains are relatively the easiest thing to install right?
But it seems many cant seem to get it right...
When cutting the chain, the shimano way, we make sure the chain is the longest possible and we measure this by cutting the excess when we tension the chain and the der cage doesnt touch the other part of its body in its relaxed position...now...FOR DH i assumed this technique is not the best since it relies only on a constant,small front chainring and the chain is mostly low tensioned....

Nor the Sram way is done without the der, as you wrap it around the Cassette and the front chainring and add two links...

for chain growth what do you guys think is the best way, also ive never used the sram way, when they mean 2 links, i assume they mean 2 x pair of make+ female...which would add to 4 sets of plate?

let me know

 

[DownCycles_Stef]

It's all dependent upon the bike. The SRAM way (which I don't personally use) may in fact work assuming you're using the correct sized SRAM Rear Derailleur and a 22/32/44 front setup with a hard-tail. But honestly to me the best way to get the right chain length, is shift into the biggest cogs (front & rear), derailleur on obviously, compress the shock all the way (if there is rear suspension), then make the chain as tight as possible without going too far. This will always give you the shortest chain possible. Generally this is what you want since most people will end up taking out a link after first installing the chain when using the shimano method.

Just my $.02

 

[Curious_George]

Generally this is what you want since most people will end up taking out a link after first installing the chain when using the shimano method.

i dont get what you mean by that

 

[DownCycles_Stef]

If you use the Shimano method of setting up your chain (i.e. smallest cog front & rear, derailleur on and make chain just short enough so there is a tiny bit of tension pulling the rear derailleur cage forward) often times there will still be excess chain and you will end up removing at least one chain link, adding to the total amount of work involved.

 

[Dartman]

If you use the Shimano method of setting up your chain (i.e. smallest cog front & rear, derailleur on and make chain just short enough so there is a tiny bit of tension pulling the rear derailleur cage forward) often times there will still be excess chain and you will end up removing at least one chain link, adding to the total amount of work involved.

Do you mean biggest cog front and rear?

Curious,

For a starting point on a full suspension bike remove the spring from the shock and put it back on the bike. Run the suspension through its travel to determine the max distance from the BB to the rear axle. Screw in the rebound adjuster so that it holds position while you measure.

Pass the new chain around the big cog in the front and rear including the chainguide but not the rear mech. Add two links. A link is 1" of chain or one set of inner and outer plates. Put everything together and see that the derailleur cage is nearly stretched out all the way but still has some travel. You may have to shorten the chain from here but it's better than trying to add links which will weaken the chain.

 

[Curious_George]

Do you mean biggest cog front and rear?

Curious,

For a starting point on a full suspension bike remove the spring from the shock and put it back on the bike. Run the suspension through its travel to determine the max distance from the BB to the rear axle. Screw in the rebound adjuster so that it holds position while you measure.

Pass the new chain around the big cog in the front and rear including the chainguide but not the rear mech. Add two links. A link is 1" of chain or one set of inner and outer plates. Put everything together and see that the derailleur cage is nearly stretched out all the way but still has some travel. You may have to shorten the chain from here but it's better than trying to add links which will weaken the chain.

oki
but where did u get this technique from

trial/error/experience?

 

[Curious_George]

would it work for cross country bikes?

 

[DownCycles_Stef]

Personal experience and working as a mechanic for the last 7 years. My only suggestion that I forgot is that is you tend to be heavy footed and are often putting down a lot of torque to your cranks, your better off having a one extra link than having things as tight as possible. Then again, you should never end up in a situation where you have shifted into the biggest cogs front & rear, but just in case you think you may and if you're heavy footed, leave an extra link in.

 

[Curious_George]

doesnt rly answer the question

 

[Dartman]

oki
but where did u get this technique from

trial/error/experience?

Yes. And step 3 here.

 

[Dartman]

would it work for cross country bikes?

Yes. More info here...http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

 

[Curious_George]

after visiting both sites...i conclude that either way it comes down to the same thing no? either putting it in on Big Big and add 1 inch of pluggin it in the calc it should come down do the same


FYI what i undestood is the adding two links is really like adding three parts....1 inner link and two outer link forming 1 extra inch...

 

[Dartman]

after visiting both sites...i conclude that either way it comes down to the same thing no? either putting it in on Big Big and add 1 inch of pluggin it in the calc it should come down do the same


FYI what i undestood is the adding two links is really like adding three parts....1 inner link and two outer link forming 1 extra inch...

I posted the park tool site as it showed well the derailleur cage with too short and too long chains on it. The formula was new to me, I've always done it on the bike. I'm good at bike repair but suck at math.

Yes. A complete link is one section of inner and outer plates. One inch on a 1/2" pitch chain.

The inner and outer plates are called "half-links" by them selves. They make a half link connector for single speeds and fixed bikes that is both inner/outer.