Got on it too! Thanks.
PSA: In Stock / On Sale
- Thread starter djjohnr
- Start date
You can use more than one code on Ebay?
Must be a Freedomville thing, has never worked for me in the land of the oppressed.
Must be a Freedomville thing, has never worked for me in the land of the oppressed.
Received a pair of Freerider Pro's for x-mas.
Got 11's and had to size up to 11.5 mostly due to the nerve damage and needing a looser fit around my toes. So I just did the measure thing.
My big toe just covers the line for size 11.
My feet are medium in width and measure at C.
I found the 11 wearable, but snug. If my toes were not fucked, they may have been good, but that not being the case I went up to the 11.5 and found room without being sloppy.
FWIW
Still want to try a pair of BOA flats.
/coolstorybro
Got 11's and had to size up to 11.5 mostly due to the nerve damage and needing a looser fit around my toes. So I just did the measure thing.
My big toe just covers the line for size 11.
My feet are medium in width and measure at C.
I found the 11 wearable, but snug. If my toes were not fucked, they may have been good, but that not being the case I went up to the 11.5 and found room without being sloppy.
FWIW
Still want to try a pair of BOA flats.
/coolstorybro
use both codes to knock it down to $62.00
Feels like 2015 again. Good
I have a pair of before-Adidas Five Ten Impact pros and a pair of just-received-from-Adidas Impact Pros, both 10.5. The older feels very slightly roomier, but we’re talking like wearing thicker socks before because they felt a bit too roomy to my tastes to now they’re perfect. I usually prefer wide toe boxes and I don’t have much arch left.
Agreed, although it could be the toe box padding not getting packed out yet on the fresh Adidas ones.
For those who need a 230x60/65mm stroke air shock, the Ohlins TTX2 in that size is cheap over at Bike-components.de :
www.bike-components.de
Bought one last week when it was at 364€ (530$cdn) after I had just sold my DVO Jade X. Now it's back at 430€ but that's still much cheaper than anywhere else.
ÖHLINS TTX 2 Air Shock
The ÖHLINS TTX 2 Air Shock offers comfortable damping for progressive all-mountain and enduro bikes and also fits in small frames. It impresses with reliable performance and various adjustable settings. Specifications: Application: All Mountain, Endu
www.bike-components.de
Bought one last week when it was at 364€ (530$cdn) after I had just sold my DVO Jade X. Now it's back at 430€ but that's still much cheaper than anywhere else.
My old 510 hellcat were nice and wide, but I needed to go up by 1/2 a size over what I've always worn in most other shoes. I have a redicoulously wide foot and ski boot fitters hate seeing me come thru the door. That said 510 Impacts and Hellcats have been great till recently. They're a lot narrower than they were in the past.
The length is still 1/2 size under most other brands.
The outside is pretty consistent over the years
They lost a lot of width and are narrower than they were in the past. That's a good 6-8mm
The length is still 1/2 size under most other brands.
The outside is pretty consistent over the years
They lost a lot of width and are narrower than they were in the past. That's a good 6-8mm
discounted 5.10s arrived via Fedex
as per my recollection from trying post-Adidas before they run a bit small and narrow, and the whole shell, if you will, feels stiff. Very glad I sized up.
These are snug in the forefoot but I think they’ll stretch a bit. And my old
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FYI the purple ones are women's. That's probably why the feel so different in size.
I was wondering why the tag said W
the black ones were boring. These fit similarly to my memory with my prior returned new style pair fwiw
comparison with my busted old Freeriders
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I don't think any country gets a pass on shoe sizes, given none of them are directly comparable across brands. Euro sizes are just as meaningless. Sounds like time for a new standard!
The only size system that ends up fairly consistent is ski boot sizing. For length at least, I can somewhat reliably measure my foot in CM then add 0.5-1 depending on how roomy I want them or thick of liners I'm planning on using.
for length then Mondo isn't bad. but volume and width matter a ton and those are poorly captured by last width measurements and the like.
Japan use centimeter as shoe size. Pretty logic if you ask me has long as it is clear if the sizing refer to the length of the foot or to the inner space of the shoe.
@Toshi
Some brands do specify the width as well, for example:
www.belenka.com
@Toshi
Some brands do specify the width as well, for example:
from $ 199 Excl. Tax | Winter Barefoot Boots Be Lenka Winter 3.0 - Black
Stay 'barefoot', warm & stylish during cold winters with Be Lenka Winter 3.0 in Black colour. New and improved version of our best-selling winter barefoot boots, equipped with warm Merino wool lining for superb thermal insulation. The perfect…
www.belenka.com
$999 for a US made frame, WO shock-
Yeah that's fair, they are pretty boring to ride unless you are doing a million miles an hour, and I don't have the balls for that.
Wait a second, both JBP and Woo betrayed the 26-er community and ride larger wheelsizes. A slippery slope into the abyss if you ask me....
OK, I correct myself. Maybe Woo rides exclusively 21/18" wheels right now.
feels like resistance to 29" is futile. when Pinkbike says shit like "what with 27.5" wheels becoming something of a dying breed ", idiots will believe them and take it as gospel. gah. I don't want to ride 29" gaddommit. 
full 27.5 is kind of a dying breed. There’s more than 1 bike company that carries a full line of bikes and doesn’t have a full 27.5. Only full 29ers and mullets.feels like resistance to 29" is futile. when Pinkbike says shit like "what with 27.5" wheels becoming something of a dying breed ", idiots will believe them and take it as gospel. gah. I don't want to ride 29" gaddommit.
I know... and that's what I lament. it also seems mullet bikes tend to be focused on the gravity end of things (DH, freeride, enduro). the sad reality is that I can only afford one bike, and a trailbike is best suited to the terrain I have around me. but I still like to have fun on my bike, am not concerned with going as fast as possible, and don't want to lug around the extra weight of a heavy-duty 29" rear wheel and tire (for no real benefit). But it is what it is I guess.
you could always just keep the bike you have. Not buying a new bike every few years would really stick it to the lizard people.
that's fully my intention! while it's not the newest (2016 Transition Patrol), the numbers are still really relevant. I seem to be able to procure stays as needed (I'm on my 3rd set of each at the moment), and otherwise I've got all the parts I want on it. So as long as the front triangle stays in one piece, I'm going to keep riding this bike. I thoroughly enjoy it.
Just curious, what are "relevant numbers"? When a bike worked for you 10 years ago on your local trails, what does a "newer geometry" achieve? All I have seen is that the newer bikes cater to pro racers riding trails that I don't at a speed that I can only dream of. Why would their geo numbers, suspension settings, etc. help me ride my local trails better? Most importantly, if I do not race, how much more or less fun would they be? Considering how many folks over on Vital considered I am crazy for mentioning that you can feel 100 g more weight in a tire, I seriously question how they will feel a degree slacker HA, 5 mm lower BB or 1 click more compression damping. My guess is that the majority of folks just read the marketing blurb and after being told that this incremental change makes them ride 20% faster, they just believe it. Not saying this includes everybody, there are certainly persons that are able to dissect the nuances of their setup and optimze them for their use case. Sadly most are just delusional and think they are as fast as Bruni and NEED his settings and geometry to be even able to ride their blue flow trail.
I'm sure the short translation is that its relevant, as in he still enjoys riding the bike.
Mixed wheels is the way to go. The best, or worst, of both worlds and with a few hacks you could probably change it back to full 27.5.
for me, with a long torso and wanting as low a standover as possible, i always felt cramped on bikes from 10ish years ago, no matter how well they worked. the recent longer/lower frames definitely suit me better. maybe the same for @slyfink ?
In my mind, relevant #s are HTA, STA, chain stay length and reach. Even though it's a 2016, my bike was at forefront of the long, low and slack trend. Many of the new bikes I look at have a 65° HTA, 77 or 78% STA, 430-440 chain stays and approximately 450mm reach (not going to get into BB drop, as that seems mostly relevant to 29s!).
My bike has a 65° HTA, a 75.4° STA, 430mm chain stays, and 432mm reach. Nothing I see on the market is compelling enough to make me want to change. Yeah, the STA is a couple of °s slacker, and reach is a bit short by today's standards, but I'm also ok with running a 50mm stem for climbing comfort. Like @jstuhlman, at 5'9 with proportionally short legs (under 30" inseam) I could probably benefit from longer reach, but meh. I'm also on the east coast and prefer old-school, natural trails which tend to be slower and more technical. Our DH runs aren't particularly long or steep, and I'm not reaching DH speeds quick enough to warrant the extra stability of longer reach and wheelbase. Given the age of the bike, I've also been able to customize my shock (Tractive my Vorsprung) to suit me, my terrain and my preferences. So yeah, I'm pretty happy with how my bike rides as is.
Switching up now would entail getting an entirely new bike, and I just don't see anything compelling at the moment. It doesn't help that this site is full of cantankerous old luddites who help me see through the marketing BS...
I looked into that when I "needed" to get a new fork. But I was worried the BB would be too high and STA would drop into the too slack category - it's already borderline... That, plus I kinda like the idea of being able to swap less used front tire to the back wheel and keep new, fresh rubber on the front... I also didn't really like the idea of playing with offset bushings.Mixed wheels is the way to go. The best, or worst, of both worlds and with a few hacks you could probably change it back to full 27.5.
I pretty much quit mountainbiking because of the industry forcing of 29" wheels just fyi
I'm to the point now where I just punch people who try to mainsplain that 27.5 mullets aren't technically 29ers so I should just ride one of those
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I guess the trails built to cater to the 29-er crowd was the second reason.
I don't know that that's 29er driven, but the supposed 'mtb advocates' definitely started fucking up good trails, and new ones being built are mostly garbage. I guess road bike wheels do carry speed better over 5% grades....but then suck in the preponderance of switchbacks that get built because people are scared to build trails that go downhill anymore.
there's nothing better than dumping 1200k elevation in switchbacks, just to lead into a long sustained flat, sidehill
The real sting is that some traditionally multi-use trails which are way more rugged and au naturale are getting taken over as 'hiking only' since hey, we don't need to allow bikes on these anymore since the bike org is building mtb trails. That's the shit that really got me. And new crops of dipshits fucking up trails that I built do dumb them down too......... I can't keep up.
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