PSA: In Stock / On Sale
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Buy E, Frames, Bags and more by Bergamont, Haibike, Trek and others online cheap in the HIBIKE shop
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400 Pounds, would make a fun mullet and there's good room for a frame bag, but you get TT cable run and DT cable run which shits me.
Cables and hoses on the bottom of the DT please, oh, and it has an IS brake mount, boooo!
Still cheap.
Cables and hoses on the bottom of the DT please, oh, and it has an IS brake mount, boooo!
Still cheap.
I still don't understand the general fascination with the LLS trend from UK folk. They have a rather flat country, mud to fill the Marianas trench, yet they are campaigning those wheelbarrows like there's no tomorrow.
You think?
Don't forget that dumb but cheaper to produce 44mm straight headtube (for an external lower cup and zero stack upper). Pretty much redundant external dropper cable routing.
the fact that it has an 853 sticker for the one tube and for all the "legendary ride of steel" BS Cotic put out it's oversized cromo tubing gives it a harsher ride than many Alu hardtails
IMO £400 isn't really a bargain for a heavy AF old standards hardtail frame chucked together in Taiwan with no real direction.
Let me explain.
Clive and Nathan are your typical UK weekend warrior mountain bikers. They grew up reading MBUK and riding XC gaining mediocre skills and slightly better bikes over the years. They were never part of the downhill scene but along came this new category of mountainbiking called Enduro and DH uplift centres began catering for the less skilled riders. Eager to be a part of this new cool scene Clive decided they should move away from the trail centres loops they'd grown up to love, buy full face helmets and pads and start riding some of the steeper more technical handbuilt trails that were popping up all over the country and eventually start entering events so they could talk about how rad they were coming in 5 minutes behind the genuine racers. Nathan actually started gaining confidence and skills and began dropping Clive... So there was only one thing Clive could do. Yes. buy a MOAR capable bike. So off Clive trotted to the bank to move money into another account so his Mrs wouldn't see his statement and now he could buy a super heavy, super long Geomanonanon Enduro bike he'd read Chris Porter banging on about the added stability and confidence it would give him. This was the edge he needed... until Nathan cottoned on and the arms race began. Bigger wheels were next, then longer dropper posts etc. etc. until one of the two went out and bought himself an even heavier and even moar stable Emtb. Nowadays Nathan and Clive travel to ride other peoples handbuilt trails they've found through social media and Youtube videos almost every weekend "practicing" in an attempt to bag a mid pack beginner E-Enduro finishing position in their next mtb festival's race.
Basically the whole of Scotland and Wales is full of woodland/hills littered with all manor of steep tech mtb trails. And to get to some of these areas it's not much moar than a 2 hr drive from most of the flatter heavily populated built up areas of England.
I'm in a tiny niche minority in still preferring my bikes to have smaller wheels, smaller frames and sketchier but far moar nimble handling. But can totally understand how anyone who buys into LLS won't ever go back. Especially if they weren't very skillful on a bike in the first place.
I have one long bike. an XL carbon Giga 290. it is undoubtedly waaay moar stable and definitely faster than my smaller bikes and on paper it's the perfect *modern* fit for me. But I just don't really enjoy riding it as much. Barely cost me anything to build ho.
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AHAHAHA Gary this time you delivered. And delivered good. My work mate is looking at my face with a look that could only be described as "perplexed", after the all-lungs-out laugh I just threw.
Where the fuck is the rep button when yuou need it most?
I guess, except for the e-enduro MTB and the
I have been there, done that. My previous bike, an Orbea Rallon, could only be described as a steam roller. Even when it was a 27.5-inch wheeled bike, I felt like it was robbing all the fun off my flattish, local trails, while only giving me modest improvements on moar vertical trails. I bought it after feeling my previous, 26" Cannondale Prophet was like riding a kid's tricycle on steep and tech stuff.
Now that I've regained confidence and started riding my dirt jumper a lot moar, I'm on a place where a moderately long trail bike with a smaller frame (and a longer dropper) gets me giggling much more frequently. I'm sticking to 29" wheels simply because of the chronical spare parts shortage we have used to live under here in Argentina.
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I won't have a hardtail frame without a 44mm straight HT, and I don't understand how a visible cable makes it redundant, it's easier to work on so that's a plus.
It's a hardtail for basic people like me, it's not a fuckin' Scott wonderboi bike.
I also trust the Taiwanese more than the English for bike manufacturing.
The last 853 frame I had was the worst riding hardtail* I've had, but I don't know if the stays were 853. It wouldn't have mattered because they were so thick even licorice tubes would have been too stiff.
*. 243 racing DH frame was stiffer but it was a Huck frame.
The gusset in the seat stays does concern me a bit, that would be my guess for the location of future failures, if any.
Just a few weeks back I had to let a customer know his wonderful steel Cotic 44mm lower headtube had flaired. Haven't had to do that in a very long time.
What's your reason for insisting on a 44mm straight headtube?
External routed droppers are max 125mm drop. and that's what makes the routing redundant.
internal dropper routing on almost all hardtails is really easy to work on.
Oh... I absolutely trust Taiwanese factory frame manufacturing... English people who sell them claiming all their bikes are built in the UK less so. If you search hard enough they do say 'some' frames are manufactured in Taiwan (but it's really not obvious)
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Wow, I haven't seen a flared headtube in years.
I am an old person who likes good posture, slack HA's, no headset spacers and not much travel, both my last bikes had 150mm, 44mm HT's.
Much to the rejection of this site I fucking hate tapered steerers, when they are 200+mm long they flex like fuck when mashing the pedals and I fucking hate it, so I use an Intend Stiffmaster upper headset.
Yes I know I could have a long semi integrated headtube but from memory the 150mm*44 straight was the longest the framebuilders I used could get. White people problems, innit?
I'm confused by the dropper post dropper comment, can't you just put the hole further down on the seat tube?
My Norco is as above and it had 150mm, I haven't taken much notice as I've had wireless ones for maybe 5yrs.
Bring back 1.5"!!!!!!!!
Wut? Only the lower portion of steerer tapers all steerer above the taper is 1&1/8" the same as any straight steerer. You could even use the same intend upper headset if you so wished
I've no idea what hole you're referring to.
the Cotic frame features cable hose guides below the top tube for an EXTERNALLY routed dropper cable/hose. ie. one in which the cable/hose attaches to an actuator located outside the post.
eg.
Yeah I want a straight 1.5" steerer not a straight 1 1/8", and tapered is dumb.
Then I don't 'need' to have a band aid headset on a XC bike. Same reason Intend make the thick wall steerers for other brands, because tapered is dumb, so they make two band aid fixes.
Maybe it's because I'm in the southern hemisphere but I see the dropper cable going in to the seat tube. So it has two options, people put old parts on hardtails because they are usually N+1 anyway.
Tapered is dumb.
All that headset does is add a clamping spacer. Presumably to give MOAR assurance it won't work loose. When Infact all that's required to insure headsets don't work loose is a stem with sufficient clamping area and well enough designed pinch bolt system that it won't slip. It's not going to change whether the additional steerer pretruding out above the headset is able to flex or not.
In regards to the fork flexing from trail input yeah it won't do much.
But it makes a pretty solid difference in how taut the front end feels, pretty sure it would be a measurable difference too.
My current norco feels fairly stiff in the front end so I'll try to do a video of the difference. I'm a 120kg fat lad that likes to mash the pedals.
My last frame was so noodly that you couldn't notice any difference with the Intend headset.
Anyone has a lead on cheap Shimano 4-pot calipers?
Push 11/6's for $400 for a few different bike models.
www.jensonusa.com
Rear Shocks: Shop Bike Shock Absorber for Sale | Jenson USA
www.jensonusa.com
must be a new one comingPush 11/6's for $400 for a few different bike models.
Rear Shocks: Shop Bike Shock Absorber for Sale | Jenson USA
You can find the Zee calipers for a pretty good deal....
Shimano BR-M640 ZEE 4-Piston Disc Brake Caliper
Shimano BR-M640 ZEE 4-Piston Disc Brake Caliper :: From $89.99 :: Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake Calipers - Mountain
www.universalcycles.com
If you don't mind not-fancy parts the br-m6120 and br-m520 calipers can be found pretty cheap...
Shimano Deore BR-M6120 MTB Hydraulic Disc Brake Caliper w/ Resin Pads D03S | eBay
<li> </li> <li>New in Retail Box</li> <li>All accessories are shown in the photos, the other parts are excluded</li> <li> </li> <li> </li> <li> <ul> <li>Superior modulation gives you the power you need</li> <li>Quick piston retraction</li> <li>High power 4-piston disc brake...
www.ebay.com
BR-MT520 Disc Brake Caliper
With a strong, 4-piston design, the Shimano MT520 hydraulic disc brake caliper boosts rider confidence and enjoyment. Details: Model No: BR-MT520 Pistons: 4 Mount: Post mount Included brake pad: D02S Metal Fits front or rear brake Compatibility: Brake Lever: BL-MT501 Brake hose: SM-BH90-SS Oil...
thundermountainbikes.com
Thanks! yeah, those are pretty much the reference values I'm finding online. I was maybe thinking of something with 20-30 % off those prices.You can find the Zee calipers for a pretty good deal....
Shimano BR-M640 ZEE 4-Piston Disc Brake Caliper
Shimano BR-M640 ZEE 4-Piston Disc Brake Caliper :: From $89.99 :: Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake Calipers - Mountain
If you don't mind not-fancy parts the br-m6120 and br-m520 calipers can be found pretty cheap...
Shimano Deore BR-M6120 MTB Hydraulic Disc Brake Caliper w/ Resin Pads D03S | eBay
<li> </li> <li>New in Retail Box</li> <li>All accessories are shown in the photos, the other parts are excluded</li> <li> </li> <li> </li> <li> <ul> <li>Superior modulation gives you the power you need</li> <li>Quick piston retraction</li> <li>High power 4-piston disc brake...www.ebay.com
BR-MT520 Disc Brake Caliper
With a strong, 4-piston design, the Shimano MT520 hydraulic disc brake caliper boosts rider confidence and enjoyment. Details: Model No: BR-MT520 Pistons: 4 Mount: Post mount Included brake pad: D02S Metal Fits front or rear brake Compatibility: Brake Lever: BL-MT501 Brake hose: SM-BH90-SS Oil...
Not to cross reference another thread, but I've bought several complete brake sets (front and rear) of SLX and XT of Aliexpress for around $150. They seem genuine and of good quality. The come without any packaging and its a crap shoot weather you get barbs and olives or not. I'm pretty sure they came home in someone's lunch box.
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In the Ali Express thread.
DUROLUX38 EQ RC2 PCS 20LH-110 29
We’ve taken everything you love about the DUROLUX and made it bigger and badder! The new DUROLUX38 is ready to take on even the most hectic lines with 38mm stanchions for added stiffness and even more precision. The DUROLUX38 is the choice for freeride, gravity riding and the most demanding...
www.srsuntour.us
Durolux forks seem stupid cheap right now. Self equalizing air spring and spring backed IFP damper.
Tempting to buy one just to see if it would work on my frame.Push 11/6's for $400 for a few different bike models.
Rear Shocks: Shop Bike Shock Absorber for Sale | Jenson USA
Really, you've never gone for a bit of a sprint and thought, "Wow That handlebar/stem/whatever is pretty flexy?"
Maybe you don't pull up on the bar when you push down on the pedal? We can't all afford E-bikes so some of us still have to pedal.
Don't forget 20mm axle!DUROLUX38 EQ RC2 PCS 20LH-110 29
We’ve taken everything you love about the DUROLUX and made it bigger and badder! The new DUROLUX38 is ready to take on even the most hectic lines with 38mm stanchions for added stiffness and even more precision. The DUROLUX38 is the choice for freeride, gravity riding and the most demanding...
Durolux forks seem stupid cheap right now. Self equalizing air spring and spring backed IFP damper.
Have heard good things, worth a shot for that price.
Got one coming to check out, thanks!
$30 off first order, $278 to the door.
In an odd twist, I just discovered tonight that that Boxxer I bought from you a few years ago is blown.....Don't forget 20mm axle!
Have heard good things, worth a shot for that price.
Got one coming to check out, thanks!
$30 off first order, $278 to the door.
Like @schwaaa31 said they are stupid cheap on Aliexpress. I'm going to try them with some Shigura's on my new downhill bike and compare them to Saints on the old one. The quality looks good and I've checked the flatness with a straight edge and they are flat and clean. Impressed.
Fuck them, they moved to the stupid trend of new air shaft if you want to change travel.Don't forget 20mm axle!
Have heard good things, worth a shot for that price.
Got one coming to check out, thanks!
$30 off first order, $278 to the door.
They should have gone straight from their shitty old neg coil system to a proper dual air spring and allowed the use of clip on spacers for travel adjust.
That's why I went the Mezzer, then the formula.
EDIT- At that price I guess I shouldn't whinge.
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not really. No.
But then again. I just don't use stupid flexy bars.
I suggest you do the same.
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What happened, no damping?
Did that thing have the ultra crappy damper or the Charger 2.1?
I don't remember....
This video might be relevent? I dunno:Don't forget 20mm axle!
Have heard good things, worth a shot for that price.
Got one coming to check out, thanks!
$30 off first order, $278 to the door.
Good info on what tools needed.
That's going to be a fun damper to pull apart.
The hsc plate thing is garbage.
Looks like the piston could use some more or bigger compression ports....
*edit Found a good pic looks like the hsc plate also acts as the check valve.
That's going to be a fun damper to pull apart.
The hsc plate thing is garbage.
Looks like the piston could use some more or bigger compression ports....
*edit Found a good pic looks like the hsc plate also acts as the check valve.
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Yeah the crappy damper. Just opened it up and the rebound piston unthreaded from the piston rod. Scored up the rod, lots of metal flakes, and I'm sure the sealhead (which was way too tight) is probably destroyed as well. Don't think I'll be able to save this one...
If it's the same as the durolux I had I found it way better than the Z1 I bought to replace it.Good info on what tools needed.
That's going to be a fun damper to pull apart.
The hsc plate thing is garbage.
Looks like the piston could use some more or bigger compression ports....
*edit Found a good pic looks like the hsc plate also acts as the check valve.
View attachment 216897
I had the durolux stripped down to be recycled but after three weeks with Z1 I put it all back together and ran it for a few months.
The Z1 was nice for putting around, the Durolux was only any good when you were giving it a nudge, and I was okay with that.