question about headsets and BB
- Thread starter crackhead
- Start date
Yes, and yes. Not as many for headsets, but make sure you check the crown race size. For BB's there is a shell width, spindle length and drive type (sq. tapered, ISIS, Octalink, etc.). These can vary considerably from mountain bike to mtn. bike, let along from road bike to mountain bike. I'm sure there are more, and others will chime in, but that's what I can think of off the top of my head.crackhead said:
For headsets, you only need to be concerned with 1 1/8" as that is what you'll see a majority of bikes use. There are some companies that also make bikes with 1.5" headtubes. Bikes that have the 1.5" headtubes can use forks with the 1 1/8" and 1.5" steerers. There are also odd sized headtubes such as the 1"
Yes, the size of the frame's Headtube (HT) will determine the headset size. The majority of frames out there (dare I say 99.9%) will have a 1 1/8" HT. Some newer bikes that fall into the freeride/DH area can have a 1.5" HT and some older frames will have 1" or 1 1/4" HT's.crackhead said:
What bike/frame is it?
Even with 1 1/8 head tubes there are variations like integrated and zero stack taht require special headsets. Integrated head tubes are ones you press teh headset cartridge bearings directly into the headtube - no inner cups at all. Zero stack head tubes (sometimes called integrated) have inner cups that are completely inside the headtube.
Neither fits regular 1 1/8 headsets.
Neither fits regular 1 1/8 headsets.
You should be safe with a std. 1 1/8" nothreadset. There's a ton of them to choose from, at all different price points. I would suggest however, that you get one with sealed cartridge bearings.crackhead said:
Chances are that you're going to have to have your LBS press it in for you, so you might as well discuss with them what is best for your bike as well.
Dillema:crackhead said:
Newer suspension forks have MUCH more travel than those in 1995, so most any cheaper fork you throw on there will "chopper-ize" that frame and trash the handling.
Your better off:
Keeping the rigid
Finding a barely used 97-98 fork, like a Judy XC with 70mm or less of travel (unlikely you will find one in ok shape)
Selling it to a college kid and getting a new bike. Seriously, even a VERY low end bike these days are better than the middle to higher end bikes of 95.
Think: high end computer in 95 vs. cheap computer today.
My 2 cents.
i will probly keep it ridged. i was more courious about the different headset sizes. i don't mind having the older bike. it suprises people that i am still riding an old bike. It is realy weird the differences between the MT bike and road sides. road guys think it cool to ride a older bike. and mt guys want drop old bikes in the trash after 5 years.
Road bikes last ALOT longer than mtn bikes. 5 years can wreak havoc on mtn parts and especially the frame. There are safety issues involved that are not considerations when road riding...(like dental health!)crackhead said:
The progress of road bikes is slower than mtn bikes technology wise too. There have been huge improvments in design and construction in the last 5 years for mtn bikes, where as road bikes see most improvements in only materials. Road bike design has been pretty much figured out for the last 100 years.
So yeah, ride the old school bike, but keep an eye on it, especially if you wreck alot.
Treat yourself to a new ride. Tech has come along way in the past ten years.