Hey everyone. Just ordered some parts for my hardtail frame. Quick question, would anyone recommend not cutting the steerer tube until I can sit on the bike and decide the stack height? Or should you just stack it up with a shim or too and call it good? I've built a couple bikes in the past, but both I was using forks off another frame so I never cut them and it seemed to work out. Reason I'm asking is I don't have the necessary tools to install headset cups, nor do I want to spend $30 on a tube cutting guide plus buying a hacksaw, so I figure I'll spend $25 and have it installed for me. So, should I just run down to the shop and have them throw the fork on and cut the tube, or should I have them at least install the headset cups, bring the frame back to my house, put the fork on, then size up the tube with my wheels on? Thanks guys.
Quick build question
- Thread starter ChelanDHer
- Start date
for my recently built bike I just put in 4 spacers and called it good. that way if you want to get it super dialed you can just move spacers around.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't you take 1 spacer and place it above the stem allowing a larger range of stem adjustment? I really can't remember how my last bike was setup, been a long time.
Oh yeah, what size spacers did you use? Just the "standard" size?
Oh yeah, what size spacers did you use? Just the "standard" size?
yes that works out for me well....
here's way too much on the subject:
I like the old addage "measure twice cut once"...
I like to run several spacers because:
1. I like to know that I can run diff forks w/diff frames (sure some forks you can buy a new clamp/strtube or pay $200 to have a new strtube pressed in; but I don't want to)
2. some frames need bigger stack heights than others...
3. for diff styles of riding I like my stem at diff hieghts (ie Dj/urban low, All mtn high, freeride/dh low on a triple clamp fork or high on a single crown)
4. I like to keep my options open, especially when it's time to sell the fork down the road... sometimes I change my mind about how high I like my stack hieght so like you said I can move spcrs from bellow the stem to above the stem... just so it dosn't look like it would really kick my ass if i slammed my knee into it...
most of my forks are cut 9.25" off the top of the crown race... but I found that on the dh40 this was almost a mistake... but other than that its always worked out for me...
I like the old addage "measure twice cut once"...
I like to run several spacers because:
1. I like to know that I can run diff forks w/diff frames (sure some forks you can buy a new clamp/strtube or pay $200 to have a new strtube pressed in; but I don't want to)
2. some frames need bigger stack heights than others...
3. for diff styles of riding I like my stem at diff hieghts (ie Dj/urban low, All mtn high, freeride/dh low on a triple clamp fork or high on a single crown)
4. I like to keep my options open, especially when it's time to sell the fork down the road... sometimes I change my mind about how high I like my stack hieght so like you said I can move spcrs from bellow the stem to above the stem... just so it dosn't look like it would really kick my ass if i slammed my knee into it...
most of my forks are cut 9.25" off the top of the crown race... but I found that on the dh40 this was almost a mistake... but other than that its always worked out for me...
Go to the shop and have them install the whole fork for you and have them put on as many spacers as it takes. Go ride and move the stem up or down the ranking in the spacers until you like it. Then leave it there for at least 2 months before you cut. and when you do cut, still leave tons of metal on top of the stem like what ballard said.
you don't need a cutting guide. it doesn't even need to be a straight, clean cut.
you don't need a cutting guide. it doesn't even need to be a straight, clean cut.
Or, you could do the lazy man thing and just go buy a piece of threaded rod, a few washers, and nuts and make your own headset pressing tool. It's no mystery to putting a headset in. Just, make sure it's square before cranking the nuts down.
I agree about leaving it long until you're happy. But, I usually already know within a few minutes of riding it up and downthe driveway what works and then just get out the jigsaw and hack it off. Clean up the cut with a file and Scotchbrite and you're good to go. Shim overall height is all that matters. They are cheap and it's better to just buy more than you'll need today.
If the shop will do the whole thing for 25 bones, that's not a bad deal. Watch what they do though and then maybe you can do it yourself the next time. I'm a proponent of supporting your shop but I also think riders shuold empower themselves to learn the most about thier bikes and do most of thier own repairs.
Good question though!
I agree about leaving it long until you're happy. But, I usually already know within a few minutes of riding it up and downthe driveway what works and then just get out the jigsaw and hack it off. Clean up the cut with a file and Scotchbrite and you're good to go. Shim overall height is all that matters. They are cheap and it's better to just buy more than you'll need today.
If the shop will do the whole thing for 25 bones, that's not a bad deal. Watch what they do though and then maybe you can do it yourself the next time. I'm a proponent of supporting your shop but I also think riders shuold empower themselves to learn the most about thier bikes and do most of thier own repairs.
Good question though!
I think what I'm going to do is what was suggested by many, get my headset cups installed, buy a few shims and install the fork myself. Ride it around for a week or so, mark the cut on the high side (maybe 1 more shim than what feels good), and cut it myself. Sounds like a plan. Thanks everyone!