[www.amazon.com]

So my fork has zero (0) oil in it. I am rebulding it for the first time (as in first fork minus and old Dj2 which I dropped to 80mm)...Can someone tell me why my stanctions will not pull apart from the lowers? I am going by this (http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-RockShox-BoXXer-Seal-Replacement-2012.html) (step 6, could be the problem? Might not have hit it hard enough granted I am hitting it)


Thanks

 

[baca262]

when the screw goes in the hole with the rod it's screwed into and you can wiggle it with your fingers, the rod is loose. if it's not, hit harder

 

[IH8Rice]

use a bigger (rubber) hammer

 

[www.amazon.com]

I am whacking it pretty hard! It wont move!

 

[ocelot]

Make sure you're holding the fork by the lowers. It makes a whole lot of difference than if you were holding it by the stanchions.

 

[www.amazon.com]

Got it, yea I have the lowers in a stand. It just took alot more force then I expected!

 

[www.amazon.com]

Ok know lithium based grease is not the best but will this be ok? http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26

 

[baca262]

simply oil the seals a bit, no need for a grease if you don't have anything suitable.

 

[www.amazon.com]

Well, the back of the jar says it is fine (good) for seals.

 

[www.amazon.com]

Ok..so should the leg the the boxxer writting on it move independent of the spring side...as in it moves up and down more?

 

[Udi]

Yes. The fork's top out limiter is in the spring leg, so the damper leg has more extension (which is not seen in use, as the spring leg will top out and prevent that). Just make sure they are the same height in the crowns when installed obviously.

 

[Freeridin']

You must be doing one hell of a rebuild.

 

[www.amazon.com]

Alright so here it goes..Put it back together and I get a sucking noise when I have Hsc and the lsc are all the way to hard, I feel little diffrence between soft and hard but rebound and bottom out work well.. compression not so much. Not even sure if it was working well when I got the fork.. Would oil have leaked out of the damper when I had it apart...thought it was a seperate unit.

EDIT: The hsc/lsc work...to a degree it's like super minor from all the way open to all the way closed. Put it on it's softest and put the travel ring thing down and pushed as hard as I could and then put it on hard and could no reach it...meh

 

[Udi]

Yeah, there isn't a huge range of compression adjustment on those things in stock guise.
I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[www.amazon.com]

Cool, sounds good thanks.

 

[tacubaya]

10 wt Maxima Racing instead of 5wt on MiCo DH cartridges is what I recommend, feels so much better.

 

[wysiwyg]

Heres an exploded diagram that may help.

 

[www.amazon.com]

So seems like there is still the problem of oil leaking out through the rebound adjustments knobs.. Explanation for this? Could the lowers not be on as tight as they go or could it be something else?

Thanks

EDIT: Also anyone know what spring comes stock..whatever is in there with the 10wt oil is not enough for me at #225..Go with firm or x-firm..as for the oil it is a very small ammount but still.....AND does sram do rebuilds as sea otter...like fox does.....

 

[William42]

So seems like there is still the problem of oil leaking out through the rebound adjustments knobs.. Explanation for this? Could the lowers not be on as tight as they go or could it be something else?

Thanks

EDIT: Also anyone know what spring comes stock..whatever is in there with the 10wt oil is not enough for me at #225..Go with firm or x-firm..as for the oil it is a very small ammount but still.....AND does sram do rebuilds as sea otter...like fox does.....

yes they do rebuilds, I think its ~60 bucks though. Sounds like you havent torqued the bolt pulling the rod into the hole enough and have a leak. Also, I think its a med spring and you should definitely be on a firm, or even x-firm. I think I have one sitting around if you can't find one.

 

[Freeridin']

Make sure the foot bolts are snugged up...but nothing crazy.

If they were tight, then I would suspect the crush washer is damaged. Go ahead and replace the crush washers.

 

[William42]

what he said. You should probably only have about ~3' of leverage to really put your body into when cinching it down. Maybe attach a pipe to your allen wrench to get that extra yard of leverage. But definitely don't use more then 1.5yards, you could risk damage.

 

[baca262]

lol WUT?! that's magnesium we're talking about here - don't use anything bigger than the allen key (heard way too many horror stories about overtightening the pinch bolts on other forks, not exactly the same thing but magnesium alloy is both soft and brittle). you can get it plenty tightened using a 4" key, never mind anything longer.

the leak could be the crush washer, small crack down there or the adjuster seals in the rebound rod. clean well and closely inspect to see where it's leaking.

 

[IH8Rice]

Maybe attach a pipe to your allen wrench to get that extra yard of leverage. But definitely don't use more then 1.5yards, you could risk damage.

a hammer drill works well too

 

[tacubaya]

Oh boy

 

[Freeridin']

Wow! 3 feet of leverage...maybe a little excessive.

 

[baca262]

a hammer drill works well too

does better for unscrewing the stubborn bolts, though.

 

[milohead]

at #225..Go with firm or x-firm...

I'm 225 with gear and firm is perfect