I got a set of Race Face Next LP cranks and BB over the winter for my new bike. its a square taper BB and crank set they were a lot cheaper then the new style. So last month while I was on my trip to west Virginia the crank bolt was constantly coming lose like 2 or 3 times a ride. This happened to my old race face cranks and BB on my other bike. I got some lock tight and put that on it. I dont know if it fixed it because I had a vary nasty crash the first ride after I put it on and I still cant ride. I think it was because it was so wet that weak and I spent most of my time in the water. Any one ever have this problem.?
Race Face BB and crank bolts
- Thread starter Pulser955
- Start date
Well, assuming that you torqued the bolts up to spec the 1st time, you should be able to solve the problem by putting loc-tite on the bolt threads.
Unfortunately, you may have stretched out the square hole, either by overtightening the crank arm, or by riding with it loose. If this has happened, there's no fixing it. The easiest way to tell if you've done this is to take the crankarm off, and look at the back of it. If the hole is still perfectly square and not stretched out or otherwise damaged, you may be okay.
There's a reason the sq. taper stuff is so cheap and why every crank manufacturer jumped ship to splines. (i know campy still does sq. but they're road-only). It's simply a vastly inferior design when compared to splines; I've destroyed a number of sq. taper cranks and am very happy with the various splined ones I've used (ISIS, Shimano, and Profile).
Unfortunately, you may have stretched out the square hole, either by overtightening the crank arm, or by riding with it loose. If this has happened, there's no fixing it. The easiest way to tell if you've done this is to take the crankarm off, and look at the back of it. If the hole is still perfectly square and not stretched out or otherwise damaged, you may be okay.
There's a reason the sq. taper stuff is so cheap and why every crank manufacturer jumped ship to splines. (i know campy still does sq. but they're road-only). It's simply a vastly inferior design when compared to splines; I've destroyed a number of sq. taper cranks and am very happy with the various splined ones I've used (ISIS, Shimano, and Profile).
Yes I did torque The bolts right the first time. I have bin fine all season till I was riding in the really nasty wet stuff. And yes I know the new stuff is better but when your building on a budget and I want to ride way more then I want to save for parts you take what you can get. I havent pulled the crank apart yet I really want to ride it first. I dont think I did any damage.
I had the worst/best cranks ever and had this weird problem with them as you are describing.
I had coda "MAGIC" cranks on my bike and the arms were always comming loose. Problem though was the bolt was funny, like it had 2 sets of threads so it was a precise fit. Was a good light crankset just no parts available for it.
I sold it and got a set of Race Face prodigy DH cranks and Evolve FR ISIS bottom bracket. Haven't had one problem. Lubed everything, torqued everything, all done. I don't think I'd ever have to mess with it.
Splines are the only way to go. As long as BB shells are the size they are and stay that way, ISIS and splined Shimano and Profile types are going to be the standard.
I'd loose those square taper ones and go get some ISIS ones. They aren't much, and the way I look at things is I don't care if it costs a tad more as long as I can set it, and FORGET it!
I had coda "MAGIC" cranks on my bike and the arms were always comming loose. Problem though was the bolt was funny, like it had 2 sets of threads so it was a precise fit. Was a good light crankset just no parts available for it.
I sold it and got a set of Race Face prodigy DH cranks and Evolve FR ISIS bottom bracket. Haven't had one problem. Lubed everything, torqued everything, all done. I don't think I'd ever have to mess with it.
Splines are the only way to go. As long as BB shells are the size they are and stay that way, ISIS and splined Shimano and Profile types are going to be the standard.
I'd loose those square taper ones and go get some ISIS ones. They aren't much, and the way I look at things is I don't care if it costs a tad more as long as I can set it, and FORGET it!
Yea shore I would love to get the ISIS ones but now we are talking like $300 compared to the $150 I paid for the square taper ones that I have. I just dont have the money now. Maybe after I can get back to work I will save up this winter but I have a crap load of medical bills to pay for.
You can get a Race Face Prodigy XC crankset from jensonusa for $115 and a decent bottom bracket for $40. So for 5 bucks more than you paid for the square taper cranks you can have the far supirior isis splined. I wouldn't go with the shimano octalink stuff, had lots of problems with bb selfdistructing. So run the square taper till they die and then step up to the wonderful world of isis.
if you find that the taper is stretched you may try a last ditch effort and smear a bit of JB weld in the crank arm and then put it on, Locktite would probabally work nearly as well and not be quite as permanent. My thinking is that if there is no grease then the "glue" would set up and fill any gaps that there might be between the crank and spindle. That way you could get out and ride now while you save up for new stuff. Also try and contact RaceFace. I have heared good things about their warranty dept. Just be honest about what happened, don't give them a just riding along story and they may give you a replacement set or a reasonable price on an upgrade.
Yea i dident think about calling them. LOL funny part is i was just riding along and the dam bolt just wouldent stay tight.