My canfield basically has that exact arrangement. The frame looks way different, but the cables basically take the same route.Interesting cable routing for the rear triangle. Can't recall seeing a set up like that.
My canfield basically has that exact arrangement. The frame looks way different, but the cables basically take the same route.Interesting cable routing for the rear triangle. Can't recall seeing a set up like that.
SAR has become really expensive for euros since brexit but yes they were good before the certificate and are even better nowThe benefit of SAR springs is they guarantee ~1.5% accuracy and they now include the tested spring rate of the spring they ship you.
Santa cruz is kind of similarInteresting cable routing for the rear triangle. Can't recall seeing a set up like that.
Just a one man show, Switchcraft is the brand.dag yo, what is that?
I now have a few rides on my 2023 Optic. I also love short travel bikes (and hardtails, for that matter) and I can confirm the Optic is indeed very capable. However, it is not nearly as capable as a big 165mm enduro bike for rough and/or fast trails with big features. There is no way around it.Thanks. Not a fan of the pivot point, but nobody asked me. I enjoy shorter travel and wonder if we'll see a swing back away from 165mm enduro bikes for everything. Seems like the Optics and etc. are just as capable when ridden well.
Oh definitely. Sorry not trying to argue that everybody needs 110mm of travel and that's it, but rather a lot of trail riders are riding bikes that are way more capable than they realistically need for trail center trails. It just seems like if you don't have 140mm of travel then you are dead, even at the kingdom trailsI now have a few rides on my 2023 Optic. I also love short travel bikes (and hardtails, for that matter) and I can confirm the Optic is indeed very capable. However, it is not nearly as capable as a big 165mm enduro bike for rough and/or fast trails with big features. There is no way around it.
You could argue that these short travel bikes are more fun overall than big enduro bikes (I personally hate being overbiked on mellow trails), but they really shine on jump trails and general trail riding. There is absolutely no problem hitting all the spicy bits you will find along the way...but for the serious stuff, big travel bikes are still the way to go, IMO.
next up: 13s mtb stuff
There is more money to be squeezed out of graveldads, mountainbiking is a shrinking hobby around here.next up: 13s mtb stuff
Can it take a proper fork (DC)?
FTFY.I believe on that frame the gussets are partially just to keep the ancillotivisual language90s vibes.
If my current fleet of bikes my Rootdown's 3 year old press in BB has been flawless while my two threaded BB have required multiple replacements in the same time period and are currently clunking/squeaking.New Chromag Rootdown: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/Chromagbikes/blog/theres-a-new-rootdown-for-2024-june-18.html
Now with a threaded BB!
Yeah, I don't have issues with PF BB. I've had 3 bikes with PF BB and they've all been perfect in my case too.If my current fleet of bikes my Rootdown's 3 year old press in BB has been flawless while my two threaded BB have required multiple replacements in the same time period and are currently clunking/squeaking.
2013 Samurai65 is still doing fine for me, never didn't have threaded! hahahaNew Chromag Rootdown: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/Chromagbikes/blog/theres-a-new-rootdown-for-2024-june-18.html
Now with a threaded BB!
I am guessing they are threading the needle with patent shenanigansOneUp makes hubs now?
Hubs
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Its too bad they went with enduro bearings.
I wonder why they'd make them so that their ratchets can fit in DT Swiss hubs, but not the other way around?
It's not about extra seals, it's about the tiny ball diameter and poor hardening process the Enduro branded ones have. DT hubs (and many oter brands) get away with a much smaller ball count per bearing because the surface treatment/hardening process is a whole lot better than these suppossedly superior products.Someone on Vital said it has to do with trying to move bearings outboard.
They look pretty decent, but I'd still rather have 350s with a 54t. A big draw of the 350s to me is the bearings last forever, whereas the Enduro bearings in my Hydras were only good for like a season. But maybe the extra seals will be enough to offset that. I mean, my Santa Cruz bikes use Enduro bearings with really good external seals, and they last way longer than they have in other bikes.
Another thing is that since CAD/CAM has become ubiquitous, design margins have tended to approach zero. Stuff works in theory and fails in practice.It's not about extra seals, it's about the tiny ball diameter and poor hardening process the Enduro branded ones have. DT hubs (and many oter brands) get away with a much smaller ball count per bearing because the surface treatment/hardening process is a whole lot better than these suppossedly superior products.
Another thing is that since CAD/CAM has become ubiquitous, design margins have tended to approach zero. Stuff works in theory and fails in practice.
I'll defer to you - I got out of manufacturing before the turn of the century.This makes no sense if you are familiar with how things are manufactured.
Ball bearings are just a terrible application for suspension pivots. Best I can tell only the bike industry uses them. And don't go blaming the bike industry. When you have a very light vehicle a little friction makes a big different and and consumers demand luxurious suppleness when riding their buffed flow trails.
I was initially concerned about the rear pivots of my Siskiu using Igus bushings, but I have to admit they have lasted longer (and play free) than the bearings it has on the other pivots. All of it with just a little cleaning/greasing every now and then.I'll defer to you - I got out of manufacturing before the turn of the century.
The other thing with ball bearings and pivot points is that high impact and little travel ain't exactly what they were invented for.
Yup, there in lies the problem.I'll defer to you - I got out of manufacturing before the turn of the century.
The other thing with ball bearings and pivot points is that high impact and little travel ain't exactly what they were invented for.
kind of like submarines huhYup, there in lies the problem.
And before CAD/CAM, designing/manufacturing/implementing things like ball bearings was more of a crapshoot. You had products that were over built and would last forever, and shit that would fail regularly. It is easy to have survivor bias in these situations.
I can argue that my 120 year old house, built with no codes, is structurally superior to modern construction. But for every one of my kind of house, ten were torn down for rotting and falling apart.
I am sure the axle flex does not help the situation... whereas the Enduro bearings in my Hydras were only good for like a season.
I agree, my Ripmo has been the same. Pivots stay remarkably clean.I was initially concerned about the rear pivots of my Siskiu using Igus bushings, but I have to admit they have lasted longer (and play free) than the bearings it has on the other pivots. All of it with just a little cleaning/greasing every now and then.
I put a decade of 100+ hard miles per week on a Turner with full bushings with no more maintenance than hitting the zerks with grease every once in a while.I am sure the axle flex does not help the situation.
I agree, my Ripmo has been the same. Pivots stay remarkably clean.
My understanding is that bushings are great when the bore tolerances are super tight, but less so when they're, ya know, like many things in bike manufacturing - not so good. I had a bike with a bushing in the main pivot and it melted those things almost weekly. But I'd like to think that's a very solvable problem today.I put a decade of 100+ hard miles per week on a Turner with full bushings with no more maintenance than hitting the zerks with grease every once in a while.
The bushing tolerances shouldn't be that difficult to hold if machined properly with a reamer for boring bar. The had part would be alignment and concentricity. That being said a lot of machining I see on bikes someone uses the same .25" end mill for everything and they interpolate whatever bores they need. Had a Renthal stem that was built like that on a machine with a lot of backlash and the resulting bore was offset, causing a stress riser that cracked. Thankfully I noticed it before riding.My understanding is that bushings are great when the bore tolerances are super tight, but less so when they're, ya know, like many things in bike manufacturing - not so good. I had a bike with a bushing in the main pivot and it melted those things almost weekly. But I'd like to think that's a very solvable problem today.