Random new bike thread
- Thread starter Sandro
- Start date
nope, made by the gamux guys:
Dreambuild Manitou FS II: Vollgefedert zurück in die Zukunft - MTB-News.de
Manitou FS II: 30 Jahre nach dem ersten Manitou FS bringt die Kultmarke ein ikonisches Modell im modernen Design zurück. Mit einer Neuauflage des FS wagt sich Manitou erneut an die Wurzeln des MTB-Sports, bleibt jedoch der Zukunft verpflichtet.
www.mtb-news.de
Seems more like a nightmare.nope, made by the gamux guys:
Dreambuild Manitou FS II: Vollgefedert zurück in die Zukunft - MTB-News.de
Manitou FS II: 30 Jahre nach dem ersten Manitou FS bringt die Kultmarke ein ikonisches Modell im modernen Design zurück. Mit einer Neuauflage des FS wagt sich Manitou erneut an die Wurzeln des MTB-Sports, bleibt jedoch der Zukunft verpflichtet.
that black to purple fade on the fork is actually really good looking.
Id be curious to see potential for something like this...
Should have done stanchions faded or decaled when I did anodizing....
Yes, the closer I look...the worse it gets.Seems more like a nightmare.
Bunch a Debbie Downers up in here. That thing is ridiculous and awesome and I love that they spent the time and effort to make it. I hope it has elastomers for springs.
I just hope something is holding the steerer tube in the crown. One hard compression and that will blow!
It looks like it's flared over at the top to create a lip.
I'm more concerned about the goddamn asinine Manitou air valve at the base of the leg. I fucking hate that thing on my mantiou forks. I wanted to let out some air today on the trail...but I don't want to have to dig out my goddam pump and turn the bike upside down in the cold just to bleed a little air, which you have to do because it can't equalize the negative valve due to design. And if the fork was designed right, it'd be a coil anyway and you wouldn't have to deal with screwing with air pressure to try and match the outside all the time. On this one, you'll be there in between the brake rotor and it's also fun how it will mist out a little oil when you disconnect.
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Because A, I keep the bike indoors so it stays warm and clean, B, conditions change, even out on a ride, now with more snow, slightly lower PSI is better, compared to having more for the last ride before it dumped, but even without that, temp changes vastly, C, the goddamn non-self-adjusting negative spring.
I find a general good way to set a fork is slightly overfilled and then adjust to suite the terrain, like tires.
Also infuriating because the rear coil is always "ready to go", it doesn't care, it always works great. Front air spring is a turd by comparison.
Couldn't you take the seals out and slap a coil in it?
If you have the IRT you could possibly drill it out, use IRT valve as the pos air spring fill point and make some sort of neg coil spring assembly from your box of old fork bits.
I don't have the cold issue but normally only adjust pressure when servicing the fork, if I think it feels sub optimal I just remember how good it is compared to a Z1 and keep on truckin'.
There was someone on Emptybeer that did a Mezzer coil, so if someone there can do it a Monkey sure as shit should be able to.
No, coils are too long, already tried. That guy that did it runs 140mn travel in an EXT model which is a lot longer (coils fit). You cant get an ext anymore.
I know someone that still has the OG version of that hanging in their garage.
All the coils that are of acceptable size and everything are all 170mm travel coils and they are just too long. I haven’t taken the dremel Cut-off wheel to one yet, but there isnt a great seat in there anyway, im thinking that would possibly cause damage long run. Plus id need to drill a hole thru to the negative chamber and somehow come up with another negative system, since it intends air.
@Jm_
Coils don't need negative spring. They just need a top out spring.
For the coils I have cut, I used a plastic part which is kind of threaded on one end and flat on the other. I got the part with a bunch of coil spring from old rockshox forks. I just can't remember the name of the model...
Coils don't need negative spring. They just need a top out spring.
For the coils I have cut, I used a plastic part which is kind of threaded on one end and flat on the other. I got the part with a bunch of coil spring from old rockshox forks. I just can't remember the name of the model...
I need a sign like that, but says- "This is what you get for buying dumb shit!"
Never seen that spring retainer type before, that's handy. I never knew what I'd done to the spring structurally by heating and grinding it flat, but they didn't snap or squash.
I liked a fairly soft top out spring, found it made the bike a fair bit more settled in the choppy stuff. From memory the Totem had well over an inch of neg travel, found it weird going back to normal forks after it.