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canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
22,114
21,665
Canaderp
Hey, random {ai bot}, generate me a picture of a funky aluminum bike that has a purple gearbox and a manitou fork in place of a rear shock AND seat stays. The background should look like @bullcrew 's garage, but more Canadian lumberjack style.
 

sethimus

neu bizutch
Feb 5, 2006
5,364
2,453
not in Whistler anymore :/
Hey, random {ai bot}, generate me a picture of a funky aluminum bike that has a purple gearbox and a manitou fork in place of a rear shock AND seat stays. The background should look like @bullcrew 's garage, but more Canadian lumberjack style.
nope, made by the gamux guys:

 

SkaredShtles

Michael Bolton
Sep 21, 2003
67,976
14,232
In a van.... down by the river

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,279
10,789
AK
View attachment 220950

I just hope something is holding the steerer tube in the crown. One hard compression and that will blow!
It looks like it's flared over at the top to create a lip.

I'm more concerned about the goddamn asinine Manitou air valve at the base of the leg. I fucking hate that thing on my mantiou forks. I wanted to let out some air today on the trail...but I don't want to have to dig out my goddam pump and turn the bike upside down in the cold just to bleed a little air, which you have to do because it can't equalize the negative valve due to design. And if the fork was designed right, it'd be a coil anyway and you wouldn't have to deal with screwing with air pressure to try and match the outside all the time. On this one, you'll be there in between the brake rotor and it's also fun how it will mist out a little oil when you disconnect.
 
Last edited:

trib

not worthy of a Rux.
Jun 22, 2009
1,655
664
This rocks. Wish it could’ve been a slightly closer replica of the original with a straight seat tube - but it’s still awesome.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
56,114
22,143
Sleazattle
It looks like it's flared over at the top to create a lip.

I'm more concerned about the goddamn asinine Manitou air valve at the base of the leg. I fucking hate that thing on my mantiou forks. I wanted to let out some air today on the trail...but I don't want to have to dig out my goddam pump and turn the bike upside down in the cold just to bleed a little air, which you have to do because it can't equalize the negative valve due to design. And if the fork was designed right, it'd be a coil anyway and you wouldn't have to deal with screwing with air pressure to try and match the outside all the time. On this one, you'll be there in between the brake rotor and it's also fun how it will mist out a little oil when you disconnect.

Why are you adjusting the air spring on the trail? Even with a brand new fork I can get it set up close enough that I only need to make small adjustments while back home.

Some forks use this one simple trick for on trail adjustability.


1730347266838.png
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,279
10,789
AK
Why are you adjusting the air spring on the trail? Even with a brand new fork I can get it set up close enough that I only need to make small adjustments while back home.

Some forks use this one simple trick for on trail adjustability.


View attachment 220963
Because A, I keep the bike indoors so it stays warm and clean, B, conditions change, even out on a ride, now with more snow, slightly lower PSI is better, compared to having more for the last ride before it dumped, but even without that, temp changes vastly, C, the goddamn non-self-adjusting negative spring.

I find a general good way to set a fork is slightly overfilled and then adjust to suite the terrain, like tires.

Also infuriating because the rear coil is always "ready to go", it doesn't care, it always works great. Front air spring is a turd by comparison.
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,855
7,215
Because A, I keep the bike indoors so it stays warm and clean, B, conditions change, even out on a ride, now with more snow, slightly lower PSI is better, compared to having more for the last ride before it dumped, but even without that, temp changes vastly, C, the goddamn non-self-adjusting negative spring.

I find a general good way to set a fork is slightly overfilled and then adjust to suite the terrain, like tires.

Also infuriating because the rear coil is always "ready to go", it doesn't care, it always works great. Front air spring is a turd by comparison.
Couldn't you take the seals out and slap a coil in it?
If you have the IRT you could possibly drill it out, use IRT valve as the pos air spring fill point and make some sort of neg coil spring assembly from your box of old fork bits.

I don't have the cold issue but normally only adjust pressure when servicing the fork, if I think it feels sub optimal I just remember how good it is compared to a Z1 and keep on truckin'.

There was someone on Emptybeer that did a Mezzer coil, so if someone there can do it a Monkey sure as shit should be able to.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,279
10,789
AK
Couldn't you take the seals out and slap a coil in it?
If you have the IRT you could possibly drill it out, use IRT valve as the pos air spring fill point and make some sort of neg coil spring assembly from your box of old fork bits.

I don't have the cold issue but normally only adjust pressure when servicing the fork, if I think it feels sub optimal I just remember how good it is compared to a Z1 and keep on truckin'.

There was someone on Emptybeer that did a Mezzer coil, so if someone there can do it a Monkey sure as shit should be able to.
No, coils are too long, already tried. That guy that did it runs 140mn travel in an EXT model which is a lot longer (coils fit). You cant get an ext anymore.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
89,062
27,245
media blackout
It looks like it's flared over at the top to create a lip.

I'm more concerned about the goddamn asinine Manitou air valve at the base of the leg. I fucking hate that thing on my mantiou forks. I wanted to let out some air today on the trail...but I don't want to have to dig out my goddam pump and turn the bike upside down in the cold just to bleed a little air, which you have to do because it can't equalize the negative valve due to design. And if the fork was designed right, it'd be a coil anyway and you wouldn't have to deal with screwing with air pressure to try and match the outside all the time. On this one, you'll be there in between the brake rotor and it's also fun how it will mist out a little oil when you disconnect.
ok grandpa lets get you back on your moose
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,855
7,215
No, coils are too long, already tried. That guy that did it runs 140mn travel in an EXT model which is a lot longer (coils fit). You cant get an ext anymore.
Pfft, I had a 130mm coil Totem with the help of a Mapp gas torch, a grinder and some vise grips.

Bullcrew might know a way.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,279
10,789
AK
Pfft, I had a 130mm coil Totem with the help of a Mapp gas torch, a grinder and some vise grips.

Bullcrew might know a way.
All the coils that are of acceptable size and everything are all 170mm travel coils and they are just too long. I haven’t taken the dremel Cut-off wheel to one yet, but there isnt a great seat in there anyway, im thinking that would possibly cause damage long run. Plus id need to drill a hole thru to the negative chamber and somehow come up with another negative system, since it intends air.
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
2,080
1,447
SWE
@Jm_
Coils don't need negative spring. They just need a top out spring.

For the coils I have cut, I used a plastic part which is kind of threaded on one end and flat on the other. I got the part with a bunch of coil spring from old rockshox forks. I just can't remember the name of the model...
Screenshot_20241031_220313_Gallery.jpg
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,855
7,215
@Jm_
Coils don't need negative spring. They just need a top out spring.

For the coils I have cut, I used a plastic part which is kind of threaded on one end and flat on the other. I got the part with a bunch of coil spring from old rockshox forks. I just can't remember the name of the model...
View attachment 221020
Never seen that spring retainer type before, that's handy. I never knew what I'd done to the spring structurally by heating and grinding it flat, but they didn't snap or squash.

I liked a fairly soft top out spring, found it made the bike a fair bit more settled in the choppy stuff. From memory the Totem had well over an inch of neg travel, found it weird going back to normal forks after it.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,279
10,789
AK
@Jm_
Coils don't need negative spring. They just need a top out spring.

For the coils I have cut, I used a plastic part which is kind of threaded on one end and flat on the other. I got the part with a bunch of coil spring from old rockshox forks. I just can't remember the name of the model...
View attachment 221020
I ordered the new 160 V3 Mastodon, because they are having a sale now and that one should be long enough to fit my coils in. The V3 is kind of "in between" the regular V2 and the V2 EXT, as far as stanchion length and height, so it should work just fine/have enough extra space. That will be the plan. I'll lose the custom valved damper I have and the new V3 pro looks to be a step down in that regard not even considering that, but should be good enough if the tune is decent. I think it's a bladder tho, which again is more points of failure on something that's going to see cold wx. (V2 is TPC+ basically and it's semi-open bath since it uses the full diameter of the stanchion as the damping cart, sealed at the bottom end.
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,855
7,215
I ordered the new 160 V3 Mastodon, because they are having a sale now and that one should be long enough to fit my coils in. The V3 is kind of "in between" the regular V2 and the V2 EXT, as far as stanchion length and height, so it should work just fine/have enough extra space. That will be the plan. I'll lose the custom valved damper I have and the new V3 pro looks to be a step down in that regard not even considering that, but should be good enough if the tune is decent. I think it's a bladder tho, which again is more points of failure on something that's going to see cold wx. (V2 is TPC+ basically and it's semi-open bath since it uses the full diameter of the stanchion as the damping cart, sealed at the bottom end.
Did you look at the Wren?
It has an IFP similar to Manitou's IRT but the spring is upside(pos spring valve at the top) down and there is no neg air spring, it's a coil.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,279
10,789
AK
Did you look at the Wren?
It has an IFP similar to Manitou's IRT but the spring is upside(pos spring valve at the top) down and there is no neg air spring, it's a coil.
It’s pretty horrible compared to the mastodon, more like bluto level. Its a cheap Chinese fork with barely functional damping. There are a few coil avenues for the V3.
 

sethimus

neu bizutch
Feb 5, 2006
5,364
2,453
not in Whistler anymore :/
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,279
10,789
AK
Wow, they invented dynamic bushings.