I do not think either brake system is going to have an advantage over the other. A solid locking brake over one that slips will make a difference.
from a purely physics standpoint, rim brakes would be better, as the 'lock' would be on the rim, which would allow for just tire flex between you and the ground, whereas discs would have stop the hub, which in turn would have to stop spokes, which in turn would stop the rim, and then the tire; allowing for more flex in the system.
but that's just physics, a good wheel would make such differences, more than likely, undetectable.
i would worry about where you were putting your stresses though, but that's just me, and i still suck enough to have to pay for my ****.
but that's just physics, a good wheel would make such differences, more than likely, undetectable.
i would worry about where you were putting your stresses though, but that's just me, and i still suck enough to have to pay for my ****.
DHCorky said:
Exactly right.
You will probably get more consistant power out of an 8" disk brake, but you will have to deal with the posibility of landing on the disk . You'll also need to find one of the few frames out there that can deal with trials abuse on the rear disk tabs and stays.
Hydro rim brakes or v brakes are the norm on trials bikes.
Jon
from what i have feel the hydro rim brakes are a must have for pure trials. that lock up like no other. if it is a more multi perpose bike i would go for disc because of it ability to modulate 1000 time better.
btw i'm not a trial rider by any means. this info has been relaied though me from trial riders
btw i'm not a trial rider by any means. this info has been relaied though me from trial riders
V-brakes are also a very viable option. Well set up v-brakes with good cables and housing (XTR) and a good lever (I like Avid levers, also XTR) will give you almost as much power as hydros. They will also be easier to set up (IMO, not true for every one) and cost less.Sir_Crackien said:
Many new pure trials frames are coming out now with v-brake bosses on the back.
Jonathan
don't use a disc for a rear brake, ya it works.... for a while... then you go to a rim brake and you know what you've been missing. there's alot of flex when you use a disc brake, there's almost none with a rim brake, even if its going to a vbrake instead of a hydro rim brake, that will still be better than a disc. that and it's alot cheaper when you miss a side hop up to the left(you dont' have to buy a new rotor every time)
thanks for all the advice.
I am currently running Deore Hydraulic. Sometimes they work and sometimes I land flat on my ass. Since I am just learning I am not very smooth and my rhino lites are taking a beating, and I have bent two rotors in the last month as well. I'm probably going to beat sht crap out of my current set up for the rest of the season and then think about getting Hydraulic rim brakes next season(most likely with a new rear wheel.
Another question? Horizontal Drop frame of vertical drops? I have a DS-1 and the rear wheel is constantly moving to the disc side chainstay. Anyone else have this issue? Would converting my axle to solid bolt on help?
I am currently running Deore Hydraulic. Sometimes they work and sometimes I land flat on my ass. Since I am just learning I am not very smooth and my rhino lites are taking a beating, and I have bent two rotors in the last month as well. I'm probably going to beat sht crap out of my current set up for the rest of the season and then think about getting Hydraulic rim brakes next season(most likely with a new rear wheel.
Another question? Horizontal Drop frame of vertical drops? I have a DS-1 and the rear wheel is constantly moving to the disc side chainstay. Anyone else have this issue? Would converting my axle to solid bolt on help?
If you really wanted to run disk on a trials bike you could get the Brake Thearapy disk kit. It was made for xc bikes that didn't have disk tabs. Basically it bolts to one of your brake bosses. A local pro has used them with great success.
well if you have horisontal dropouts, just slam the rear wheel all the way in, that way your chainstays are shorter, and you dont' have to worry about the wheel twisting from pedaling. it will feel better on the rear wheel too. or try some sort of spacer in there to keep the axle from sliping forward if you have trouble with tire clearance. but when you get a trials specific frame... dont use a disc for the rear!!! it will save you the 30-50 bucks a rotor when you bend them at least 2 times a month like you are now. haha, that sucks dude.
Here is sound advice:
Run V-brakes or Magura HS-33's. If v-brakes, then get salmon pads. Otherwise plazmatic pads for HS-33's. DO NOT ride with a disc rear. You have no stopping power and the consistancy is poo (wheel flex due to hub wind-up). Also, put a light grind on your rim. IF you can, buy the widest rim you can stick in that bike (Alex DX32 or Try-all). Go with Michelin 2.5's or Maxxis Minion 2.5. If you don't already have a Chris King, get one.
Seriously, investing in your rear brakes and hub will make your trials game worthy. You'll be a happy camper.
Run V-brakes or Magura HS-33's. If v-brakes, then get salmon pads. Otherwise plazmatic pads for HS-33's. DO NOT ride with a disc rear. You have no stopping power and the consistancy is poo (wheel flex due to hub wind-up). Also, put a light grind on your rim. IF you can, buy the widest rim you can stick in that bike (Alex DX32 or Try-all). Go with Michelin 2.5's or Maxxis Minion 2.5. If you don't already have a Chris King, get one.
Seriously, investing in your rear brakes and hub will make your trials game worthy. You'll be a happy camper.
good call