This is for those of you who have experience in building sturdy rear disc wheels. I already calculated the spoke length for a chris king iso disc hub to a rhyno lite rim. Last night I laced up the wheel and was wondering if there was a method you mechanics used to build a rear wheel correctly, such as what steps do you guys take; do you tightened the left side spokes one turn then the right side two turns, check radial and lateral true, then tighten the left side two turns , etc. Is there a definite method like this in building a sturdy rear wheel that has been proven? I will be using the wheel for dj, trials, slalom and dh. Thanks guys.
Rear Wheel Disc Build
- Thread starter Aztomac
- Start date
First I bring all the nipples level with the threads on the spokes.
Then I squeeze on the spokes to see how loose they are. If they are still pretty loose I give each one 1/2 turn. If they feel snug allready I go with1/4 turn.
I also like to square the nipples with the rim it makes the process easier.
I go around once(1/4turn each) and check true, round, and dish then make small corrections and go around again. If the dish is off I will go 1/4turn on just that side. Making the small adjustments is slower but doesn't let things get out of whack.
I keep doing this until tension is up to spec by feel and then check with a guage.
I also like to seat the spoke heads with a special little punch and flex the spokes so they angle towards the nipples a little better. Don't worry about the seating and be careful if you decide to tweak the spoke angle, it is just a little thing that makes building them easier.
Then I squeeze on the spokes to see how loose they are. If they are still pretty loose I give each one 1/2 turn. If they feel snug allready I go with1/4 turn.
I also like to square the nipples with the rim it makes the process easier.
I go around once(1/4turn each) and check true, round, and dish then make small corrections and go around again. If the dish is off I will go 1/4turn on just that side. Making the small adjustments is slower but doesn't let things get out of whack.
I keep doing this until tension is up to spec by feel and then check with a guage.
I also like to seat the spoke heads with a special little punch and flex the spokes so they angle towards the nipples a little better. Don't worry about the seating and be careful if you decide to tweak the spoke angle, it is just a little thing that makes building them easier.