Rear Wheel Help

Discussion in 'The Shop' started by MTBXRacing, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. MTBXRacing

    MTBXRacing Chimp

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    I Have a Haro .357 that I removed the floating brake arm because of noise and have the correct drop outs in place. I noticed now I have about 1/2" of play on the axle that the rear hub/cassette can slid about between the swing arm. The floating brake arm mount had a bearing assembly that took up that play when mounted with the drop out, it is a one piece assembly. I can't tighten the axle nuts down their already at their max. Any advice? :confused:
    View attachment 110444
     
    #1 -   Mar 11, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012

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  2. jwick

    jwick Chimp

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    washers
     
  3. MTBXRacing

    MTBXRacing Chimp

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    I was thinking that but it didn't seem right?
     
  4. jwick

    jwick Chimp

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    I'm not real familiar with that frame but based on the position of the single pivot that thing will probably ride/brake a hell of a lot better with the floater on there. I would try to make that work. I know that s not what you asked but thats my 2cents
     
  5. MTBXRacing

    MTBXRacing Chimp

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    I figured it out, I thought I had a 150mm hub, its a 135mm hence the difference. I didn't think not using the floating brake arm would require a new hub.
     
  6. jwick

    jwick Chimp

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    I thought of that later too when I started thinking about how the brake caliper was supposed to line up with the rotor as well. Lots moar washers? The good news is a 150 hub should give you a little more stiffness/beef.