[ChrisRobin]

Anyone have strange tips on how to revive old forks that don't work properly?? Here's my case: I have a 2001 Psylo SL that doesn't have the lockout mechanism anymore (it was bugging me and not working properly so now I don't have compression damping, only rebound) which doesn't really bother me. My problem was the fork was kinda sticky. The bushings are pretty much new as well as the seals. What if I were to 'polish' the bushings with very fine 1500-2000 grit sandpaper and even the stanctions?? Anyone have any ideas other than scrapping the fork since I just need for a beater all-round hardtail???

 

[SDminitrucker]

2000 still cuts stuff up pretty well from my automotive experiences, Get 2500 or 3000.

 

[ChrisRobin]

Ok...thanks for the info

 

[SDminitrucker]

dude no need to be a dick, i'm just just relaying my experience with sandpaper and metal in polish and cleaning conditions.

 

[BigStonz]

Maybe a little silicone spray on the stantions?
I had a Psylo XC for a very short time...until the rebound damping crapped out

 

[ChrisRobin]

dude no need to be a dick, i'm just just relaying my experience with sandpaper and metal in polish and cleaning conditions.

No, for real, thanks for the info!! I didn't know that 1500-2000 was still too rough.

 

[SDminitrucker]

OK. No Problem then. I've just found with metal its easier to go with a lighter grade first to prevent ****ing up. I Doubt you'll be able to find over 2000 grit a local auto store, but ask some detailing places. They'll know. And if you do get stuck with 2000, Deff wet sand. Wet sanding takes some of the harshness out, so you dont build up grime on the sandpaper, making it cut more.

if you dont believe me look at my trucks paint job. I just know a bit about detailing and polishign. SOrry for the lack of coherent sentences i'm a bit ****ed up right now. College is great.

 

[mtnbikeair]

Dont sand your stancions, thats a pretty horrible idea. I would do alot of research on rockshox's website before you do that. Thats a very long lasting choice to make. If your shock is sticky feeling it could be because you dont have the right amount of oil, or if the weight of your oil is too viscous then that will cause some drag/ stickyness to your fork.

 

[punkassean]

I had a 2001 Psylo SL and the lock-out is completely dependent on the proper fluid amount (completely full w/ZERO air) in the damping (right) leg of the fork. You need a syringe and some shock fluid (7.5wt?). Remove the top cap from the left leg of the fork in order to free up the coil-spring (don't loose the little BB's and springs for the U-Turn dial!!!). Remove the dial adjuster for the lock-out on the top of the right leg and then remove the small black plastic shaft (reverse thread maybe?) that threads into the center of the black top-cap. Fill a syringe with shock fluid and attach it to the hole in the top-cap that the threaded shaft just came out of. You need to cycle the suspension to burp out the last little bit of air and by having a syringe filled with fluid attached, as the air escapes you can replace it w/fluid. After cycling it quite a few times air should stop bubbling up and out. Keeping the syringe attached, return the fork to full extension and then remove the syringe carefully. Now you should be to a point where once the fork is reassembled the lock-out will completely lock the fork, there will not even be ~1mm of play when locked-out.

I don't see how your fork has rebound control but not compression damping seeing as "Pure" controls both with the same fluid. The lock-out is a compression lock-out so if it doesn't work, your rebound shouldn't either.

Last note: If you plan to do any semi-abusive riding on this fork call RS and get the METAL replacement piece for the plastic junker that holds the bottom of the compression leg together. To replace it you need to pull the lowers and remove the c-clip from the inside of the bottom of the compression leg, the first piece that comes out is the culprit. It is a small white plastic disc that will crack when shock loaded causing the fork to loose all compression damping and spike like mad. Hrmmm... maybe that's what wrong with your fork right now???