Bar #3 is one rigid body, and encompasses pivots 4, 5, and 6.hmcleay labeled his bars a little oddly.
Bar #3 is one rigid body, and encompasses pivots 4, 5, and 6.hmcleay labeled his bars a little oddly.
That was my understanding as well, just like the frame of say a Transition Patrol is considered part of the 4 bar linkage.Bar #3 is one rigid body, and encompasses pivots 4, 5, and 6.
Right. I just would have labled the shorter bit attached to the chainstay since that dictates axle path more.Bar #3 is one rigid body, and encompasses pivots 4, 5, and 6.
Nothing odd about that, just like a 4-bar is: 1, main-frame member; 2, shock linkage; 3 chainstay; 4, seatstay.hmcleay labeled his bars a little oddly.
Not one that affect the axle path. Not relevant.wouldn't the point where the shock mounts to the downtube also be a pivot?
I think the "link" you are looking at that mounts to the top of the shock is actually two links, joined at the top of the shock, creating an actual pivot...wouldn't the point where the shock mounts to the downtube also be a pivot?
this is cool and all, but you've got a tough sell ahead of you. good luck, man.
I think the "link" you are looking at that mounts to the top of the shock is actually two links, joined at the top of the shock, creating an actual pivot...
My head is spinning looking at this thing. Pinkbike should let Vernon Felton ride this. I feel like he is the most reliable bike reviewer going, besides maybe Kidwoo.
pssst...........5Nothing odd about that, just like a 4-bar is: 1, main-frame member; 2, shock linkage; 3 chainstay; 4, seatstay.
Standard convention.
Or more accurately, a specialized horst-link setup is an example of a 4-bar linkage, as there are 4 members. There are plenty of other examples.
You can't have shit just attaching to nothing in space. That just makes no sense. It has to come from somewhere. God has a plan.pssst...........5
Thank you hmclay, you are correct. in classical physics and mechanisms, of which I claim to use the correct definitions for, it is a 6 bar linkage. In my haste to make it clear to the layman, I made the rookie mistake of not including the ground link (the frame), in my count. My humble apologies, consider crow eaten. I will correct this mistake in other forums.Let me count that for you:
View attachment 122719
All of these links and pivots are necessary to constrain the axle path to 1dof.
Remember the 'mobility' equation? (Probably not)
N = No. of Links, in your case 6
j = No. of joints (maybe you've had a few too many of these?), in your case this is 7.
Mobility = 3*(N-1-j)+j = 1
e.g. 6 links, with 7 pivots gives 1 degree of freedom.
If you think that one of these links does not affect the axle path, then it shows a fundamental misunderstanding of planar linkages.
Removal of any one of these links will increase the Mobility to 2, making it a 2dof system, where the axle is free to move within a 'window' area (like the Kona magic link).
Given how links 2 and 3 are nearly in a straight line, and the shock is driven by the pivot between these two links, it is critical to model these pivot locations accurately to calculate an accurate initial leverage ratio.
Even if the model is out by just a millimeter, the resultant LR could be out by a factor of 10.
I can see how the LR values published by @Vrock might be quite different from your 'design' values. So, to settle this, please post your 'design' leverage ratio curve.
On a related topic, I would also be concerned at how manufacturing tolerances are likely to affect the outcome of this bike. If the two pivots in the front triangle are further apart than design by just 0.1mm, then it is going to mean the 'knee' (pivot #4) will be much straighter (rather than a slight kink), which means the LR will be significantly lower than design.
Same would apply if the shock is longer than design by a small amount.
These real world variations are likely to result in huge variances in production outcomes. And at an educated guess, I think some frames would end up being 'stuck up' with links 2 and 3 being in a dead straight line (or even inverted).
Tell god I said "psssst......6"You can't have shit just attaching to nothing in space. That just makes no sense. It has to come from somewhere. God has a plan.
Then you are not a customer for this bike. I have stated before, if you don't care about pedaling performance or climbing ability, that eliminates one important reason to consider this bike. However, you may be surprised that there are advantages in DH situations as well, as the bump absorption is improved due to the instantaneous compression effect form the Missing Link. Enough to warrant the extra bearings in light of your maintenance requirements? Judgement call. You'd probably have to ride one to make that call.To my walnut sized brain, suspension is primarily intended to provide maximum traction, namely in downhill/rough cornering situations. I disagree with the assertion that "going downhill is relatively easy" from a design perspective, and quite frankly, I only expect a trail/AM bike to be adequate (ie - not super shitty) going uphill. I give a minimal amount of fucks about climbing performance, because its just a means to an end for me. And fwiw, I live in an area with rolling terrain and never long for a climb switch, which I do have for the occasions I ride in more traditional mountain terrain with sustained climbs. Personally, I'm all about minimal frame maintenance and optimized downhill / cornering performance.
or you don't care if God knows??I don't know if God cares
View attachment 122724
Not quite. A falling rate refers to the leverage, or motion ratio, from the wheel to the shock.Wouldn't an initial falling rate mean it's stiffest at full extension? How does that jive with "instant bump response"?
You'll get your chanceBring a few to Ascutney State Park (Vermont) July 28-31; we will have a crew ready to test your assertions.
By using the term floating actuation point, we can determine that there is a confluence of them all interacting in a mutually beneficial manner. Better?I'm still trying to grasp this claim
Because that's basically claiming two completely different leverage curves as it moves through its travel. So it behaves as red while pedaling, but as green/black while coasting? I thought it locked out then let loose, which was only at the top of the travel.....that would be one curve.
Shock needs to use the term 'floating shock actuation point' or I quit.
No, I'm the naggy old crone.You'll get your chance
wait, I'm a noggy old crone?
The thing is falling rate also means you start with very low leverage. The big factor in making suspension supple is overcoming friction due to seals. That is especially true for air shocks. By using a low leverage rate you make it harder for the bike to overcome that. It is one of the reason most modern bikes are rising rate in the initial travel.Not quite. A falling rate refers to the leverage, or motion ratio, from the wheel to the shock.
If it is a linear rate, neither rising nor falling, then the wheel would take the same amount of force to compress the shock at every increment through the travel. For example, 100 pounds per inch linear rate would take 100 pounds to compress the first inch, another 100 to compress the second inch and 100 more pounds to compress every inch till the end of travel.
If it is a falling rate, it would take 100 pounds to compress the first inch, then 95 pounds to compress the 2nd inch, and 90 pounds to compress the 3rd inch.
Conversely, a rising rate (which an air spring naturally has), would look more like 100 pounds for the first inch, 105 pounds for the second inch, etc.
Obviously, it's not notchy like that, as motion(or leverage) ratio curves tend to be curves, not notches.
So, by having a falling rate at the beginning of the travel, from full extension to about 40-50 percent, means that the wheel will be able to move a little farther for a given impact, because less force will be required to compress the next inch of shock stroke.
If you had a rising rate in that portion of travel, the wheel would have less movement before the force ramped up, so it would be harsher.
Later on in the travel, I want the rising rate. But not from the linkage. The natural rate of an air spring, when using a linear motion ratio, provides a perfect way to keep the bike from being too far in it's travel and prevent bottoming.
I'm not sure this is quite right. This may be why you want relatively high leverage early in the travel, because that would minimize seal and bushing friction, but being "progressive" early in the travel will amplify the fact that air-springs are progressive early in the travel (then flatten out, then go progressive again at the end). Progressive and high-leverage are two different things. In fact, going to a "falling rate" means you are using very little shaft travel for a given amount of wheel travel, usually high leverage. The ultimate in "going progressive" is achieving a 1:1 ratio, where things like seal drag and bushing friction would be maximized.The thing is falling rate also means you start with very low leverage. The big factor in making suspension supple is overcoming friction due to seals. That is especially true for air shocks. By using a low leverage rate you make it harder for the bike to overcome that. It is one of the reason most modern bikes are rising rate in the initial travel.
Perhaps you mean moving from a falling rate to a progressive rate, then I'm tracking. Really though, it would have to do with the leverage ratio (relatively high or low), not so much the curve, unless the curve was drastic.The thing is falling rate also means you start with very low leverage. The big factor in making suspension supple is overcoming friction due to seals. That is especially true for air shocks. By using a low leverage rate you make it harder for the bike to overcome that. It is one of the reason most modern bikes are rising rate in the initial travel.
Yes, fortunately Real World Cycles makes something you can buy for this.I admit I don't think at all about curving progressive leverage bushing friction while I'm riding. Should I be? Am I missing out?
Fair enough, an like others have said, innovation is cool (I mean shit, Specialized claims you will actually die without it) and I hope it works out for you. That said, my comment about designing a really good performing DH bike was intended to describe many of the nuanced factors involved such as wheel path, geometry, proper kinematics to mitigate wallowing/blowing through travel, etc...I think if you rode 10 different modern DH bikes back to back, you'd find most of them go about their business in meaningfully different ways. As for Steve Peat winning WC's on a Orange 222, that was a long time ago, when basically all DH sucked a lot of donkey dong. And ultimately, it usually has a lot more to do with the rider than the bike at that level. Hell, Ratboy won a WC race on tiny little bitch wheels 2 years agoThen you are not a customer for this bike. I have stated before, if you don't care about pedaling performance or climbing ability, that eliminates one important reason to consider this bike. However, you may be surprised that there are advantages in DH situations as well, as the bump absorption is improved due to the instantaneous compression effect form the Missing Link. Enough to warrant the extra bearings in light of your maintenance requirements? Judgement call. You'd probably have to ride one to make that call.
You can disagree with my assertion that going downhill is easy from a design perspective, but there are tons of DH races won with simple single pivots and plain old horst link designs. Really, this is one of the most developed aspects of mtb suspension. The money and the conundrum, are spent on pedaling performance, for all but DH bikes. Even there, plenty of attention is paid.
If you took all of the pedaling performance enhancements out of your bike, that were designed in, you'd have to spend some time getting used to it before you liked it again, as you accepted the compromises of lost pedaling performance.
I have used progresive wrongly. A bad habbit since when talking in Polish people don't understand faling/rising rate. Rising rate would be a better term and that is what I meant.. It's not used to make it harder for your bike to go into travel but to overcome initial friction as you say. You want high leverage at the begining of the travel but not later in it therefore you get a rising rate.I'm not sure this is quite right. This may be why you want relatively high leverage early in the travel, because that would minimize seal and bushing friction, but being "progressive" early in the travel will amplify the fact that air-springs are progressive early in the travel (then flatten out, then go progressive again at the end). Progressive and high-leverage are two different things. In fact, going to a "falling rate" means you are using very little shaft travel for a given amount of wheel travel, usually high leverage. The ultimate in "going progressive" is achieving a 1:1 ratio, where things like seal drag and bushing friction would be maximized.
But in the early part of the travel, when you've done almost no compression of the shock, the leverage ratio of the linkage is really not that important. Case in point: Nomad vs Capra have almost identical leverage curves past the sag point, but the nomad is the usual regressive-progressive of VPP, while the Capra is straight progressive and starts out with a much higher leverage ratio than the Nomad (3.3 vs 2.5, IIRC). The difference in breakaway force between the two comes down to who serviced their shock seals last.I'm not sure this is quite right. This may be why you want relatively high leverage early in the travel, because that would minimize seal and bushing friction, but being "progressive" early in the travel will amplify the fact that air-springs are progressive early in the travel (then flatten out, then go progressive again at the end). Progressive and high-leverage are two different things. In fact, going to a "falling rate" means you are using very little shaft travel for a given amount of wheel travel, usually high leverage. The ultimate in "going progressive" is achieving a 1:1 ratio, where things like seal drag and bushing friction would be maximized.
But in the early part of the travel, when you've done almost no compression of the shock, the leverage ratio of the linkage is really not that important. Case in point: Nomad vs Capra have almost identical leverage curves past the sag point, but the nomad is the usual regressive-progressive of VPP, while the Capra is straight progressive and starts out with a much higher leverage ratio than the Nomad (3.3 vs 2.5, IIRC). The difference in breakaway force between the two comes down to who serviced their shock seals last.
COIL IT NAO!!!You don't notice the rear wheel hanging on things on the nomad? Never hear a gigantic clack that comes out of nowhere as you're trucking along through some chatter?
Not to mention the insanely loose midstroke caused by that whole range around sag where the inflection point of the curve is?
You don't notice the rear wheel hanging on things on the nomad? Never hear a gigantic clack that comes out of nowhere as you're trucking along through some chatter?
Not to mention the insanely loose midstroke caused by that whole range around sag where the inflection point of the curve is?
Yes, and yessssss!COIL IT NAO!!!
We'll make Mexico pedal for us, and we will be great again.A good linkage should pedal up the hill for me.
In fact, it should even give energy back to the system so I arrive at the top with even more energy than when I started.
This is true to some extent. Although negative springs on air shocks have made that less of a concern than in years past.The thing is falling rate also means you start with very low leverage. The big factor in making suspension supple is overcoming friction due to seals. That is especially true for air shocks. By using a low leverage rate you make it harder for the bike to overcome that. It is one of the reason most modern bikes are rising rate in the initial travel.
I am not trying to take away anything from DH design. You will see my efforts on that some time in the near future. I'm a DHer at heart (translation, too slow for XC racing) and of course, think I can design a better DH bike as well.Fair enough, an like others have said, innovation is cool (I mean shit, Specialized claims you will actually die without it) and I hope it works out for you. That said, my comment about designing a really good performing DH bike was intended to describe many of the nuanced factors involved such as wheel path, geometry, proper kinematics to mitigate wallowing/blowing through travel, etc...I think if you rode 10 different modern DH bikes back to back, you'd find most of them go about their business in meaningfully different ways. As for Steve Peat winning WC's on a Orange 222, that was a long time ago, when basically all DH sucked a lot of donkey dong. And ultimately, it usually has a lot more to do with the rider than the bike at that level. Hell, Ratboy won a WC race on tiny little bitch wheels 2 years ago
But I do agree you can make a righteously performing single pivot DH bike, like the GG/DH or TR500 for instance. But even then, I'd wager there's more subtleties than one might initially assume, albeit certainly less complex than a trail bike that requires better pedaling characteristics.