[imageWIS]

So I bought my cross-country Trek a few months back without realizing that my local trail park was destroyed last year by the hurricanes (and further destroyed by the county, but that’s another story all together). So I’ve found myself riding my bike on the street.

So, I might as well buy a road bike, but I have no idea what to get. Recommendations?

Jon.

 

[jacksonpt]

Decide on a budget, then go to all the LBSs in your area and see what feels good.

Then report back to us, along with the type of riding you do, and we can make some recommendations.

Fit is THE #1 factor.

 

[imageWIS]

Regarding price I think about a grand, tops; because I’m also going to have to buy clipless shoes. How should I fit on a road bike? I.e. how is it different, position-wise from a cross-country bike?

Jon.

 

[jacksonpt]

Regarding price I think about a grand, tops; because I’m also going to have to buy clipless shoes. How should I fit on a road bike? I.e. how is it different, position-wise from a cross-country bike?

Jon.

It should be comfortable. Not too much stress on your hands, wrists, back or butt. The problem is, it's hard to tell this on a 5 minute test ride. A knowledgable shop should be able to help you.

Perhaps others with more experience can give you better guidance.

 

[ito]

Regarding price I think about a grand, tops; because I’m also going to have to buy clipless shoes. How should I fit on a road bike? I.e. how is it different, position-wise from a cross-country bike?

Jon.

In a few quick words:

1-2 inches of standover (depending on how aggressive a bike you want)
Full leg extension with a slight bend in the knee
Relaxed hand position, elbows should be bent when on the hoods. In this position the majority of your weight should remain on the saddle and your shoulders should feel relaxed.

Find a shop that offers a full fit with purchase of your bike, they'll get you set up.

Best deal in the $1000 range come as the Specialized Allez, Trek 1200 or 1500, and the Giant offering in that range. Look around though, you might find some '06 bikes on sale right now.

The Ito

 

[SofaKingBanned]

Regarding price I think about a grand, tops; because I’m also going to have to buy clipless shoes.

Do you have clipless shoes that you used with your mtb? If so, just ride with your mtb shoes for a while. Buy a pedal wrench (FYI: ask before using it since the non-drive-side is reverse-threaded) and use your mtb pedals. I say this assuming you'll not be riding your mtb for a while?

As for road bike, the ideal situation is to find an LBS that will take the time to measure you, find a bike or two that's close to what will work for your body, then adjust that bike in little ways to make it more comfortable. And then some months later make more adjustments for you after your body is broken in since it's a little different than mtb. Eventually, you'll learn all the little stuff so you can buy your own bike, fit it and make the small adjustments.

Don't skip this important part cuz you could wind up buying the wrong bike for $1000!

I still advocate new roadies buying a bike that's close to right for them for $500 or so. Riding a year, then dropping the $1500-2000 that you'll really need to spend to get the right bike.

As for specific advice. I highly recommend getting a bike where:
-- saddle is high enough to almost fully extend your leg when the heel's on the pedal at "6 o'clock"
-- a top-tube where you're almost too streched out with a decent bend in your elbow.
-- and a handlebar height that is level with your saddle.

As you gain roadie strength and flexibility -- which is slightly different than any other kind -- you might lower the handlebars a little or extend the bars further away over the front wheel. This isn't ideal, which is why I suggest a low-end new or new old-stock bike from a good LBS. Then convert it to a commuter bike when you buy your right bike eventually.

Have fun and ask questions

 

[rooftest]

Get fitted, get fitted, get fitted. That's the most important.
As for the handlebars level with the saddle, I hear that a lot and personally think it's garbage. The bars on my XC mtn bike are a few inches lower than my seat! Actually, if you had a pure XC bike, your seating position should be similar to that on a road bike. My Trek Fuel and my Lemond road bike basically feel the same. (Well, the LeMond's much faster)

 

[imageWIS]

I went today to my LBS and looked at the 1500 and the Allez (although in my work clothes, so I didn’t try them out…I’ll probably go on the weekend) and I think I liked the 1500 more. I don’t have clipless from my XC bike, so I would have to purchase a pair.

Jon.

 

[sanjuro]

I think road bikes are all the same except for frame material and fit. Parts are all about the same at each price point, and so are bike weights.

Just try a couple of bikes in your price range for good fit and the other intangibles...

 

[Archie]

The 1500 is a pretty nice bike, and I would recomend it over most other bikes. The frame isn't that great but the components are very decent. I think they are running a shimano 105 crank this year instead of the bontrager race crank (which is nice b/c the TruVativ bottombracket sucked. I blew two of them in 6 months).

the 1500 is basicly a lower version of the trek 2100 (my bike ). For the price, its a pretty hard bike to beat...unless it went up from last year to this year.