Quantcast

Road/Trailbike rolling speed problem.

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
I know it's not DH related but since it's the only bike section that's alive I'll ask it here. I've noticed recently that I get lower average rolling speeds on my old road bike (you know, the typical hipster bs 80s road bike) than on my trailbike. Now I'm trying to find the reason behind this. The only reason for having a road bike is because it's faster than a trailbike (well that and because who doesn't want more bikes?) so this annoys me.

Any suggestions you may have?

So far I've noticed that the road bike is a bit too big and the wheels are heavy. Though it still seems strange since wheels should affect acceleration but with lower rolling resistance I should be able to get higher speeds. So can my conti super sport tires be too soft? (They are soft) or is it some drive train problem I'm not noticing?
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
Have you considered the biomechanical aspect of the issue? Maybe your posture over the hipster bike isn't as natural to you as on your trail one. Flexing the glutes on old, square geometry road frames takes some adaptation.
I owned the road bike for over 2 years. The frame may have some wonky sizing. Another thing I suspect may be some weird gap in gear ratios around cruising speed.
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,312
4,688
Any road bike on the road slower than a trail bike with mtb tires? Does not compute. You’re doing it wrong.
 

Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
8,098
5,938
UK
So long as you're not running stupidly soft pressures in them, road tyres (on the road) should have way less rolling resistance than trail mtb tyres. (even heavy road tyres like your old contis). Assuming the bike isn't fucked at higher speeds the main thing stopping you going faster on a roadbike is wind resistance
How are the hub bearings/freewheel and BB and what state is the chain on the 30+yr old roadbike?


or does your trail bike have a 250w motor that assists to beyond 30mph like mine does? ;)
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
So long as you're not running stupidly soft pressures in them, road tyres (on the road) should have way less rolling resistance than trail mtb tyres. (even heavy road tyres like your old contis). Assuming the bike isn't fucked at higher speeds the main thing stopping you going faster on a roadbike is wind resistance
How are the hub bearings/freewheel and BB and what state is the chain on the 30+yr old roadbike?


or does your trail bike have a 250w motor that assists to beyond 30mph like mine does? ;)
Tires are not heavy. They are new tires. They are just super sticky as compared to most road tires I have tried (continental super sports)

Also the drivetrain is 2 years old. I've borrowed it to a friend for 6 months (the bike, not the drivetrain) so he might have been not nice to it during that time but it should not be super old.


Hubs and bearings and bb are cheap but not old either (I've just noticed the rear wheel has some drag in the hub mechanism)
 
Last edited:

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,379
9,997
AK
Limiting factor on the road is wind resistance. Find a buddy to draft. Lifehack: use a panel truck.
 

Bikael Molton

goofy for life
Jun 9, 2003
4,066
1,210
El Lay
dragging brakes, tire pressures, gummed up freewheel.

If bike is upside down or on work stand, the wheels should spin for a minute +, rather than seconds, unless bearings are bad or brand new and overpacked with grease.

Are the tires not only sticky but super wide for some weirdo reason?
Pumped to 80+ PSI, any road tire should be way faster than any MTB.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
dragging brakes, tire pressures, gummed up freewheel.

If bike is upside down or on work stand, the wheels should spin for a minute +, rather than seconds, unless bearings are bad or brand new and overpacked with grease.

Are the tires not only sticky but super wide for some weirdo reason?
Pumped to 80+ PSI, any road tire should be way faster than any MTB.
Brakes are not dragging, tire pressure is fine. Tires are narrow.
 

Mo(n)arch

Turbo Monkey
Dec 27, 2010
4,444
1,431
Italy/south Tyrol
I' d say wrong measurement method.
Bring both bikes to straight hill. Go down said hill with both bikes WITHOUT pedaling. Measure end speed. Make diagnosis.
If you are slower on the roadbike, hubs or brakes are the problem. Otherwise it's you, respectively the gearing of the bikes.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
I' d say wrong measurement method.
Bring both bikes to straight hill. Go down said hill with both bikes WITHOUT pedaling. Measure end speed. Make diagnosis.
If you are slower on the roadbike, hubs or brakes are the problem. Otherwise it's you, respectively the gearing of the bikes.
I am leaning towards the frame being too big. The tires are too sticky and the rear hub has some drag but that can't be a huge problem so it must be the sizing. I thought it was slightly too big but maybe the problem is bigger than I thought.

I get that my measurement is not super scientific but I should not be having all my city PR's on my trailbike.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,296
6,332
borcester rhymes
This is the most vague question ever. It's like the guy who goes to the shop for a squeak in his car.

My guess is your hub bearings are shot. Maybe not in the stand, but sometimes if you add weight, the wheels slow down. Could be a broken or bent axle, or just flex in the frame that is causing things to bind. I suggest doing a roll test and seeing which bike is faster...shouldn't be hard to do between speedometer or even feel.

Otherwise it could be your drivetrain if it's not actually bearings. Chain wear, binding, BB bearings. It's pretty hard to diagnose when you say "my shit is slow" rather than "my bike rolls slower" or "my bike is suffering from drivetrain drag" as those are easier to test and figure out.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
This is the most vague question ever. It's like the guy who goes to the shop for a squeak in his car.

My guess is your hub bearings are shot. Maybe not in the stand, but sometimes if you add weight, the wheels slow down. Could be a broken or bent axle, or just flex in the frame that is causing things to bind. I suggest doing a roll test and seeing which bike is faster...shouldn't be hard to do between speedometer or even feel.

Otherwise it could be your drivetrain if it's not actually bearings. Chain wear, binding, BB bearings. It's pretty hard to diagnose when you say "my shit is slow" rather than "my bike rolls slower" or "my bike is suffering from drivetrain drag" as those are easier to test and figure out.
I have not tested it but it feels like rolling is the issue over drivetrain. The hug bearings idea is a good shot. I will spend some time with the bike over the weekend
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,296
6,332
borcester rhymes
why don't you try swapping in a different set of wheels? Even if they are 26ers or don't have functional brakes. You should be able to feel the sensation of increased rolling speed just with different wheels.

I had a set of road bike disc wheels that rolled terribly. The bearings were a little grainy in hand but I can only imagine what that translated to. Now I have just cheapo novatecs and they are fantastic- the difference is noticeable.
 

Toshi

Harbinger of Doom
Oct 23, 2001
38,874
8,066
Re skinny vs wideish tires, tire pressure, and rolling resistance:


On my commuter bike I followed the lead of this article and dropped down to 30 psi. (Admittedly this is with 700 x 47 mm tires so probably too much for you.)
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,685
1,171
NORCAL is the hizzle
Not very scientific here, sounds like you're going on feel and total ride time with lots of variables, correct?

If you're talking pure "rolling" speed (vs. pedaling, climbing, etc.), the only difference size should make is aerodynamics. Your road bike should be more aero, but if you've got some wonky sizing going on you could be more upright than your trail bike, resulting in more drag. (This assumes everything checks out mechanically.)

Also, road bikes are sketchy (especially if yours has rim brakes), so it could be as simple as holding speed better at various points, braking later, etc.
 

Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
8,098
5,938
UK
With a decent experienced road rider on board roadbikes aren't sketchy on roads at all. and are way faster descending than mountainbikes. rim brakes are absolutely fine too.

Get a half descent roadbike from this century that fits you @norbar .
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,685
1,171
NORCAL is the hizzle
With a decent experienced road rider on board roadbikes aren't sketchy on roads at all. and are way faster descending than mountainbikes. rim brakes are absolutely fine too.
Thanks Dad. :rolleyes:

Sorry but a drop-bar, high-post, skinny-tire road bike is more sketchy than a trail bike when it comes to handling. And rim brakes might be fine, but discs are far better, especially on carbon rims. I know this from personal experience. But don't take my word for it: They just had this little race in France. Some dude in a yellow shirt quickly erased a deficit on a descent in part because he had disc brakes and could brake later.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,296
6,332
borcester rhymes
Uh...I don't really know what's going on in this thread other than yet another gary pissing match, but I have both a carbon rimmed skinny tire disc road bike and a carbon rimmed fat tired mountain bike and the road bike is infinitely faster on the road but is nowhere near as stable going downhill. They both roll fast...honestly my MTB is exceptional compared to virtually all other bikes I've ridden, but the low drag tires and aero position is just better on the road. Disc brakes were largely a waste- I just wanted to be able to run cheap open mold chinese aero carbon rims without worrying about braking performance, but a good set of rim brakes would probably be fine too. I think Norbar's just got a shitty old bike and is likely comparing it to a nice new one, and that's just not really fair.
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,687
5,040
Australia
If they're brand new wheels sometimes they'll roll a bit slowly till the seals and shit bed in if they're cheaper and using crappy rubber seals. Aside from that, make sure you're not toning down the manliness of the DH forum by discussing enduro bikes in here. Road, CX and e-bikes are fine. But definitely not single crown DH bikes.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
If they're brand new wheels sometimes they'll roll a bit slowly till the seals and shit bed in if they're cheaper and using crappy rubber seals. Aside from that, make sure you're not toning down the manliness of the DH forum by discussing enduro bikes in here. Road, CX and e-bikes are fine. But definitely not single crown DH bikes.
There is no such thing as a single crown dh bike. It's like calling something that includes pineapples pizza.
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,685
1,171
NORCAL is the hizzle
Except. You won't even get close to the same speeds on the road on a trail bike so how exactly do you.... you know...
Thanks for twisting my words. I said I know from personal experience that disc brakes are better than rim brakes, especially on carbon rims. You disagree? Among other things you can brake later, heat doesn't build up as much on long descents, and rain has less of an impact. Minimal weight penalty (which can be partially offset by lighter rims), and unlike others I'm not worried about injury from a rotor. So, better.

Certainly a road bike should be faster purely in terms of aerodynamics and rolling resistance. I don't think anyone here is arguing that. That's why we all are guessing something is wrong with Norbar's bike.