[J_B]

Ok, I am currently running a Sram X9 shifter w/XO rear der on my Fly. I ran this all last year at Northstar and at the local haunts. I have beat the crap out of my XO rear der. Some of the carbon(?) knuckle is missing, the cage has alot of wiggle at the knuckle and the cage is bent. I feel that this thing is gonna go belly up soon so I am looking to change rear der's.

For my Imperial build, I put a Shimano 105 rear der on there to try it out. I'll be running a Sram attack rear shifter but I haven't been able to ride since I am still waiting for cranks.

I would like to try out a 105 rear der on my Fly but am uncertain. Why? I am happy with my X9/XO setup since it shifts great despite being beat the hell up. I know all der's are subject to being torn off but I've been told that a roadie der tucks up a little tighter than mtb der's.

Any suggestions, bashing or harrassing is welcome. Thanks.

 

[S.G.D]

i love my 105 der for DH. mated with a ultegra cassette, it shifts so hard and accurate. it's wicked.

cant go wrong. its shorter, lighter, and made of more metal, the spring is stronger. another plus? it's not a terribly expensive Der either!

do it.
~SGD

 

[MikeD]

Personally, I prefer SRAM. I also think Shimano isn't bad, and heartily recommend a roadie mech if you go with it. However, I HATE the SRAM/Shimano combo setups...never had good luck, always had mediocre shifting with it. Get pure SRAM X-series, or pure shimano shifter/mech setups...avoid the Rocket/Attack/Crapola shifters with Shimano in back, IMHO.

 

[DßR]

105 all the way, I've been doing it for a few years and they work awesome.

 

[BMXman]

I agree w/ Mike...you could get the X9 short cage...and that should help...D

 

[ViciousDHer]

I run a 105 with sram attack shifters on 2 dh bikes no problem. I usually go thu 2 deraillers per year, but they're cheap and they do tuck up nice and high just make sure to get the short cage version

 

[mobius]

105 on my bighit and not a problem since.

 

[Curb Hucker]

I agree w/ Mike...you could get the X9 short cage...and that should help...D

As far as I knew there was only a Med, and Long cage version. Is the short one new for '05, its not on their site.

 

[DHS]

yea they were going to make a Jeff Lenoski(sp) XO short cage der. it was carbon too
not sure what happened. but they were also thinking of doing the short on the X.9 but doubt that'll come out.

 

[BMXman]

oh well I meant short as in shorter than the standard length...D

 

[Sverre]

I got the Shimano Dura Ace SS. It's super short, super light and gives a grisp shift. Combined with a 11-28t XT cassette, XTR 8speed shifter and high end shimano chain, it's a killer combo! Recomended if you can spend the extra $$.

I've also got a Shimano Tiagra SS on my streetbike. (Combined with 8speed stuff). No problems what so ever in almost two years. And it's beed used ALOT.

S

 

[Kevin]

Dura Ace or XTR medium (short) cage.
Running dura ace on the dh bike next season.

 

[DHS]

well i'll stay SRAM on everything i own, love the 1:1 shift too much to go back to ****-man-yo!

 

[J_B]

Ok, I feel like a newbie or something. I have all these q's about compatibility issues of rear derailleurs. So what about running the 105 with a 11-32t cassette? Or do I have to run a roadie cassette? If I can run a 11-32t cassette, will any front chainring do? Planning on running a 36t E13 up front. I should know this crap since I ride road bikes.

 

[MVRIDER]

Any suggestions, bashing or harrassing is welcome. Thanks.

Your bike might run better if you tried attaching some skills to it. :eviltongu

 

[J_B]

Your bike might run better if you tried attaching some skills to it. :eviltongu

In that case, you better start attaching some too.

 

[Pau11y]

Your bike might run better if you tried attaching some skills to it. :eviltongu

Jesus, yikes!

Here's the bottom line. Don't mix brands. Mixing models of the same brand is kewl tho. Use either Sram or Shimano and I mean for chain, derailleur, cassette and shifter. Mixing (brands) is just inviting variables that don't need to be there.
If you run a 11/32 rr and a 36T frt, the only thing I'd watch for is the chain length. There might not be enough derailleur to take up the slack in the chain w/ a short cage.

 

[kidwoo]

I used an ultegra long cage der. on my road bike with a 11-34 xt cassette. Before that I had a short cage with a 11-32 xt cassette on another bike. Both worked fine although exceeding the max cog size reccomendations. I've had xtr and ultegra derailleurs on my dh bike(s) and both worked very well over any of the 9sp xt versions.

No shimano setup I've ever had worked better than the X.0 der/X.9 shifter setup though. Can't beat the instant shift. My two gripes previously were the exploding plastic bodies which the X.0 eliminated and the accidental twist shift which the X.9 triggers eliminated. I'm slowly moving all my bikes to this setup.

 

[weman788]

I didnt read everyone's post, but for road derailers, I think they are much better becuase you dont have as many gears to get screwed up with. Also, They are smaller, lighter, and deffinetly stronger in my opinoin.

 

[kidwoo]

I didnt read everyone's post, but for road derailers, I think they are much better becuase you dont have as many gears to get screwed up with.

True. Road derailleurs come with less gears. It's a fact jack!!!

 

[BMXman]

I didnt read everyone's post, but for road derailers, I think they are much better becuase you dont have as many gears to get screwed up with.

what...care to explain???....D

 

[JoeRay]

Another oddity of short cage rear mechs on long travel bikes is if you haven't allowed for a long enough chain your more likely to rip the mech off near the end of your travel.

Been there done that on my BB7, I only had one chain and no spare links when I built it and thought 'sweet, lets ride'. Dropped an easy six footer and ripped the mech out.

By adding extra links it solved this but there is less allowance for chain growth in a short cage than a long cage mech. IE - less tolerance so get it right and then check again.

 

[MikeD]

I didnt read everyone's post, but for road derailers, I think they are much better becuase you dont have as many gears to get screwed up with. Also, They are smaller, lighter, and deffinetly stronger in my opinoin.

Hey, mom, guess what!

I posted on the INTERNET today!!!

MD

 

[dropmachine]

So can anyone confirm this for me::

For a BB7, i can get away with a 105 short cage, 11-28 cassette and a 36 tooth front? I just have to measure out the chain correctly...

 

[WheelieMan]

Another oddity of short cage rear mechs on long travel bikes is if you haven't allowed for a long enough chain your more likely to rip the mech off near the end of your travel.

Been there done that on my BB7, I only had one chain and no spare links when I built it and thought 'sweet, lets ride'. Dropped an easy six footer and ripped the mech out.

By adding extra links it solved this but there is less allowance for chain growth in a short cage than a long cage mech. IE - less tolerance so get it right and then check again.

Hmm, I've always wondered how much chaingrowth the BB7 has. Did you just have the chain setup extremley tight or is there actually significant chaingrowth towards the end of the travel that would cause your derailleur to rip off?

 

[MikeD]

So can anyone confirm this for me::

For a BB7, i can get away with a 105 short cage, 11-28 cassette and a 36 tooth front? I just have to measure out the chain correctly...

Yeah. If you've got a single front ring, all that will matter is your cassette spread, once you've set the proper chain length (including cycling the suspension to account for chain growth.)

Since the short cage can accomodate an 11-28 without a problem, you're all set.

MD

 

[The Kadvang]

Another oddity of short cage rear mechs on long travel bikes is if you haven't allowed for a long enough chain your more likely to rip the mech off near the end of your travel.

Been there done that on my BB7, I only had one chain and no spare links when I built it and thought 'sweet, lets ride'. Dropped an easy six footer and ripped the mech out.

By adding extra links it solved this but there is less allowance for chain growth in a short cage than a long cage mech. IE - less tolerance so get it right and then check again.

Just thought I would note that this is only going to happen on long travel bikes with a ton of chaingrowth... like high foreward single pivots without pulleys and the like...

 

[chicodude]

Goddammit, Jenson was all out of short cages, so I had to get a med :mumble:

 

[JoeRay]

Hmm, I've always wondered how much chaingrowth the BB7 has. Did you just have the chain setup extremley tight or is there actually significant chaingrowth towards the end of the travel that would cause your derailleur to rip off?

40t Chainring, 12-25t cassette, very short cage XT (GS I think) and an unshortened 7701 chain (104 links??).

Probably set tight from get go. But using the standard rules of thumb that I've used successfully before for estimating chain length it should have been OK. Added five links I think, now all good. Probably didn't help it was on the 25t when I dropped.

Because of the high pivot the axle path does tend to be slightly backwards so yes there will be growth all thru the travel and I probably this increases as the wheel goes up ie near max travel cause the pivot is above the BB.

Is there an easy way to measure these things?

My biggest gripe with my BB7 is if I wanna run over 25t rear I have to use like 1.5 chains. :angry:

Maybe this is why I've already done 250k on my roadie this year?

 

[Killerbarbies]

40T chainring - very short XTR SS rear mech on a 2005 medium Bullit - what is the biggest cassette I can run? At present I have an 11-28 XT 8spd but have just had a new rear wheel built up where I can run a 9spd.

 

[MikeD]

As long as you're only running one chainring up front, the size of the chainring doesn't matter at all...when you set your chain length, you match it to the chainring size.

What matters in this case is really only the max cog size you're running. People say they've run up to a 34t cassette with a roadie derailleur; me, I run a 30 or 32t max. So whatever you want to use should be fine.

MD

 

[partsbara]

My biggest gripe with my BB7 is if I wanna run over 25t rear I have to use like 1.5 chains. :angry:

Maybe this is why I've already done 250k on my roadie this year?

be honest... the reason is TEAM MANGINA - TUCK AND RIDE !!!!!!!

 

[partsbara]

BTW ray, my e mails haven t changed... they should still work... i check em everyday

 

[motomike]

with a roadie cassette, be carefull not to go too big with the cassette. I believe road cassettes(or most of 'em)are designed for 28-30 and below. The problem would be that the upper pulley would touch the teeth on the largest cog if it is too big. Might be able to find a longer B-tension screw, which could help. Also, the cage might not be long enough to properly take up the slake in the chain when in the smallest cog.

 

[MikeD]

with a roadie cassette, be carefull not to go too big with the cassette. I believe road cassettes(or most of 'em)are designed for 28-30 and below. The problem would be that the upper pulley would touch the teeth on the largest cog if it is too big. Might be able to find a longer B-tension screw, which could help. Also, the cage might not be long enough to properly take up the slake in the chain when in the smallest cog.

Although they're rated for a 27t max cog, people use them for bigger cassettes. Personally, I've gone up to 32t successfully. Many on this board say they've used them with 34t cassettes without a problem, but I can't vouch for that myself.

This is with regard to both b-tension and cage length.

Edit: Just bother to read the whole thread, and you'll see Kidwoo has used a 34t...