[al-irl]

I've a tech question regarding a rocco world cup that ive rebuilt and bled, everything seems to have gone to plan but there is very little damping. Anyone have any experience with working on these that could answer a few questions

 

[Kanye West]

What oil did you use?

 

[al-irl]

5wt stendec rear shock oil

 

[scottishmark]

How did you bleed it/fill up the oil? It took me 4 days (well nights) of trying until i got it sorted, enough of a PITA that i'll probably just send it away next time

 

[al-irl]

I used the ghetto method thats on here for doing a dhx using a funnel around the shock body and over filling it so no air can get in. Ive done a few dhxs before and they worked out fine. It seems to be bled correctly as theres no noise of air moving inside. I had to replace the shaft on the shock and the rebound needle. Not sure if theres some incompatibility with the new rebound neeedle and the old one.

 

[scottishmark]

I would start with another bleed (making sure the bleed hole is pointing straight up) to start with and take it from there

 

[SylentK]

I could be way wrong here but I think I remember people saying you had to fill the roco by placing it in a tub of oil and totally submerging it?

You can probably just call your local Marz service center....

 

[scottishmark]

nah there's a couple of ways to do it. The Windwave way is clamping the shock in a vice with a funnel/syringe screwed into the bleed hole. I found the oil bath tricky as you really need the oil deep enough to have the bleed hole at the top (which means pretty deep on a 9.5 shock). A funnel around the body should is a sort of halfway house between the two

 

[al-irl]

This shock is off a sunn radical so it makes submerging it not an option. Rang windwave and they weren't much help

 

[scottishmark]

have you got the powerpoint manual that windwave put together? It should be on their site somewhere or I can send you it if you want

 

[al-irl]

No i don't I'll pm my email address cheers

 

[scottishmark]

file's too big to send, but here's the link straight to it

http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/rear shocks/ROCO RC Service Manual.ppt

 

[IH8Rice]

This shock is off a sunn radical so it makes submerging it not an option.

why is that?

 

[al-irl]

cheers mark

theres a big rod that is part of the linkage screwed into the end of the shock shaft instead of the usual eyelet end. As a result the shock is about 20" long

 

[IH8Rice]

theres a big rod that is part of the linkage screwed into the end of the shock shaft instead of the usual eyelet end. As a result the shock is about 20" long

oh wow, didnt know that.

 

[al-irl]

those instructions look fairly simple will give it a try and see how i get on with it hopefully it will solve my problems

 

[Kanye West]

I just use a vice and a shop towel. Shock in vice, canister up, IFP out. Insert main piston most of the way, and pour in oil over it. Put the shop rag around the opening and shake the hell out of the shaft to bleed air through the piston. Keep refilling and repeating until the IFP chamber is full or overflowing a bit and there is no air coming up from the main piston. Fill that side, and screw in the sealhead into the overflow. Bring it to full length, then set the IFP depth and close that bleed screw in the piston. I don't even use the bleed screw on the bridge for a full rebuild.

Make sure your rebound adjuster is backed all the way off as you're bleeding too btw.

 

[al-irl]

thats pretty much what ive done except i used the bleed screw on the ifp and cycled the shaft untill the air bubles stopped comming out of the ifp screw.

 

[Kanye West]

There's the problem. They're not going to come out that way. They have to rise out of the main chamber behind the piston. Probably still have a bunch of air in there.

 

[sbabuser]

Somewhat OT: Anyone know where to source a shaft seal? Marz only sells a complete kit, and they aren't cheap.