it's a metric vs imperial thingSide note - why does this business of 200/203mm and 220/223mm rotors still exist? Wtf was the point of this originally? I seem to have forgotten. Perhaps deliberately.
203mm is closer to 8"
it's a metric vs imperial thingSide note - why does this business of 200/203mm and 220/223mm rotors still exist? Wtf was the point of this originally? I seem to have forgotten. Perhaps deliberately.
Yeah, 203mm was the "big" rotor size for a long time because it's (almost) 8''. Then SRAM (correctly) decided that was dumb because it made adapters more complicated and went to 200mm, but most other brands didn't follow their lead to it turned into that XKCD comic about standards, and then when 220/223mm rotors started to be a thing nobody bothered to fix it so now we have both of those too.it's a metric vs imperial thing
203mm is closer to 8"
They would have made a 199.9mm rotor.Yeah, 203mm was the "big" rotor size for a long time because it's (almost) 8''. Then SRAM (correctly) decided that was dumb because it made adapters more complicated and went to 200mm, but most other brands didn't follow their lead to it turned into that XKCD comic about standards, and then when 220/223mm rotors started to be a thing nobody bothered to fix it so now we have both of those too.
2 stoke hard enduro would be closest i suppose pretty low engine braking....Which one of those vehicles is predominantly raced down steep hills and low grip surfaces with no engine (braking)?
If you're heavy and a rear brake dragger it probably makes tons of sense so I tend to just live and let live on this one.
203mm are 8" from mericaSide note - why does this business of 200/203mm and 220/223mm rotors still exist? Wtf was the point of this originally? I seem to have forgotten. Perhaps deliberately.
so none then!2 stoke hard enduro would be closest i suppose pretty low engine braking....
2 stoke road racers high grip surface but if you go fast enough anything is a low grip surface....
Won’t be a problem when we use that heat to regenerate voltage.I'm of the opinion that comically large rear rotors will be in fashion in a few years. Heat dissipation is a problem with bike rotors.
Also, the mopeds bike stores are currently selling will require larger rotors anyway, and that will probably drive the trend.
that would either mean hub motors or heavy af chains that are capable of brakingWon’t be a problem when we use that heat to regenerate voltage.
I hear plenty of 2stroke trail dirtbikers complaining about overheated rear brakes, none about the front. There's this assumption that moto has it all figured out from so many years of racing but those guys sure don't know dick about downhilling and brake use. Enter a dirtbike race and be prepared to dominate everyone when the trail turns down. In fact, other than a very small group of trials trained riders I'd say dirtbikers are shit on techy trails. It's the blind leading the blind when talking about gear and technique. All those guys on 240lb bikes, sitting the whole time, and crawling through tight trails. It's funny to see how much better it can be done on a 110lb Surron with some MTB style. Dirtbikers are as driven by tradition as roadie/XCers. No ability to think outside the box, try new things, or figure things out for themselves.Especially since it's contrary to every other vehicle development cycle on earth (dirt bike, street bike, car, truck, etc).
220 rotors with 2 piston calipers?It’s not that I’m against a bigger rear brake rotor, but in every application that does this, like cars, etc, the rear caliper is less powerful so you don’t lock the rear all over the place. It’s the heat capacity that we are after IMO and larger rotor is one way to do it, but increasing rear power may not be necessary or wanted here.
I hear plenty of 2stroke trail dirtbikers complaining about overheated rear brakes, none about the front. There's this assumption that moto has it all figured out from so many years of racing but those guys sure don't know dick about downhilling and brake use. Enter a dirtbike race and be prepared to dominate everyone when the trail turns down. In fact, other than a very small group of trials trained riders I'd say dirtbikers are shit on techy trails. It's the blind leading the blind when talking about gear and technique. All those guys on 240lb bikes, sitting the whole time, and crawling through tight trails. It's funny to see how much better it can be done on a 110lb Surron with some MTB style. Dirtbikers are as driven by tradition as roadie/XCers. No ability to think outside the box, try new things, or figure things out for themselves.
That's true for the majority of amateur class off-road racers. In the Expert/A class events where there are major downhills in the desert races, there is still significant opportunity for passes and gapping on the downhill sections/technical sections.I hear plenty of 2stroke trail dirtbikers complaining about overheated rear brakes, none about the front. There's this assumption that moto has it all figured out from so many years of racing but those guys sure don't know dick about downhilling and brake use. Enter a dirtbike race and be prepared to dominate everyone when the trail turns down. In fact, other than a very small group of trials trained riders I'd say dirtbikers are shit on techy trails. It's the blind leading the blind when talking about gear and technique. All those guys on 240lb bikes, sitting the whole time, and crawling through tight trails. It's funny to see how much better it can be done on a 110lb Surron with some MTB style. Dirtbikers are as driven by tradition as roadie/XCers. No ability to think outside the box, try new things, or figure things out for themselves.
The good old days of running the biggest rotors you can find on Magura Gustavs220 rotors with 2 piston calipers?
Also weren't those Gustav discs completely flat, with no cuts or holes? They must have been really fun to ride in the wet...The good old days of running the biggest rotors you can find on Magura Gustavs
Sorta related, I just realized what your profile picture is, hahaha!Also weren't those Gustav discs completely flat, with no cuts or holes? They must have been really fun to ride in the wet...
Ah, I see you're taking the thread derailing path moar seriously my young Padawan.Sorta related, I just realized what your profile picture is, hahaha!
I saw it in a forum a few days ago when looking up brake stuff.
Gustavs had so much power this was never an issue. I used them for 3-4 years and I never had any issues with them. Earlier models had weak lever bodies but later ones were perfect outside of weight.Also weren't those Gustav discs completely flat, with no cuts or holes? They must have been really fun to ride in the wet...
wrongAlso weren't those Gustav discs completely flat, with no cuts or holes? They must have been really fun to ride in the wet...
I stand corrected sir! Which Magura model had those thick, not cut rotors then?
I think it was Sachs disc brake, steel and AL rotors, one for dry, other for wet wetther. It was terribleI stand corrected sir! Which Magura model had those thick, not cut rotors then?
Also Gustav but earlier model years. I remembering using it on my first dh bikeI stand corrected sir! Which Magura model had those thick, not cut rotors then?
I remember those.Also Gustav but earlier model years. I remembering using it on my first dh bike
Wow, that's closer to the 220 Magura that I have, with the expansion design. This is what I think of when I think of old Gustavs: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/magura-gustav-m-front-brake-with-rotor.398684/
Yeah, it is like the new discs. I only remember people using that solid one on the rear. There was another version that was just solid and no carrier. Extreme enduro motorcycle rear discs are often solid, fwiw.Wow, that's closer to the 220 Magura that I have, with the expansion design. This is what I think of when I think of old Gustavs: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/magura-gustav-m-front-brake-with-rotor.398684/
The floating caliper design was interesting. I don't know if other dirt bikes use it, but cars definitely do.
Wow someone on there wants to buy a Magura Louise, hahahaha!Wow, that's closer to the 220 Magura that I have, with the expansion design. This is what I think of when I think of old Gustavs: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/magura-gustav-m-front-brake-with-rotor.398684/
The floating caliper design was interesting. I don't know if other dirt bikes use it, but cars definitely do.
When they went away from magnesium their brakes worked amazingly. Just not their XC brakes but in those days no xc brakes worked.Wow someone on there wants to buy a Magura Louise, hahahaha!
I can't remember if it was my Louise or Julie that had the mount snap off, was doing a rear wheel hop and the thing just went bang.
I still find it amazing that Magura makes brakes that work these days.
I will say that the modulation with a 6" rotor was still the best of any brake I have had, but they would get hot in one good stop and the lever would come to the bar.When they went away from magnesium their brakes worked amazingly. Just not their XC brakes but in those days no xc brakes worked.
That's the same setup I use on my 105lb Surron, where they have plenty of power for 1 finger stoppies and skids while heat capacity has never been a problem. Should be plenty of brake for any MTB scenario.Switched to 220mm HS2 rotors yesterday from 200mm Centerline rotors. Also a fresh bleed front and rear on the Guide RSCs, and new pads (Jagwire sintered? or something).
Ride today with long ups and long downs. Seems like a good setup so far.
All dirt bike rear rotors are solid and all dirt bike calipers (front and rear) are floating. Kind of 50/50 split on floating rotors vs solid rotors on the front though. I don't think there's even room for the rear rotor to have rivets. The hubs are larger in diameter than the front and the rotors are smaller.Yeah, it is like the new discs. I only remember people using that solid one on the rear. There was another version that was just solid and no carrier. Extreme enduro motorcycle rear discs are often solid, fwiw.
Also switched to goodridge. Hell I'm tempted to do it on my current bike. I hate the feeling of expanding brake lineI will say that the modulation with a 6" rotor was still the best of any brake I have had, but they would get hot in one good stop and the lever would come to the bar.
The original Magura brake hose or whatever it's called expanded like crazy too, I had Goodridge hoses with both sets, it made a world of difference for that one stop before they overheated.
Probably a Julie that broke. Back in my shop monkey days we sold Julie’s on all our budget builds because they were cheap as hell. We bought OEM cases of them for like $25/pair. They were a goofy ultra low pressure system that used cheap plastic lines and even cheaper plastic fittings, they did work well when they weren’t broken.Wow someone on there wants to buy a Magura Louise, hahahaha!
I can't remember if it was my Louise or Julie that had the mount snap off, was doing a rear wheel hop and the thing just went bang.
I still find it amazing that Magura makes brakes that work these days.
Those rotors were sold quite late after 2010 I'm sure since I found them new at quite a few shops around 2013. They were amazing. If I was on the market for a new rotor I'd seriously consider hunting those.Still have Louise BAT's (2010ish?) with Venti rotors still in service on one bike.
They are still strong and well modulating - just a good feeling brake, well at least on the 26'r they are on. The rotors are about done as they are now pretty worn at 1.7mm (2.0 when new) but still running true. I had really good luck with these rotors having a few sets. Just wished the adjustment knobs on the brakes were alloy and not plastic.
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